January 12, 2019 -- There is a
fabulous tradition in one single small canton in Switzerland (Appenzell
Ausserrhoden): When the switch was made in 1582 from the Julian Calendar
to the Gregorian Calendar to change the date of Easter, the people of this canton refused to accept the new calendar, and continued to celebrate the change to the old New Year as per the Julian Calendar. To this day they still celebrate New Year's Eve twice: On December 31st
and January 13th. The men in a select few villages dress up in intricately
designed and lovingly handmade costumes either as "beautiful/ugly" (nature-themed), "ugly" (with scary masks), or "beautiful" characters, the latter wearing ornate headdresses
depicting life in the old farming communities. Even the "ugly"
characters are beautiful in their extravagant costumes of fresh forest leaves,
branches, straw or wood-shavings.
Starting at 5 a.m., groups of these characters (men only or boys) travel
from farmhouse to farmhouse singing (or more like chanting) in a special folk style called "zäuelen"
to wish the owners a Happy New Year and symbolically to scare away evil spirits. As a thank you they get payment and something to
drink (beer or Glühwein).
This year
we had the opportunity to travel to Urnäsch on January 12th (if the Old New Year's Eve falls on a Sunday, they follow through with the tradition -- called Silvesterchlaus -- on the Saturday) to witness this
event. The weather was cold, wet, and cloudy, but the experience was
fabulous. Also, we were quite lucky that it did not rain: the event does not take place when it rains or snows, because of possible damage to the delicate headpieces.
The "Uglies":
In this case, the only "ugly" group we saw were children, and they were cute!
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A group of singing children depicting the "Ugly" group |
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This "Ugly" was my favourite! |
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This group with their scary masks are not meant to represent evil. |
VIDEO: The group of Children are ringing their bells
Half-Half: The Beautiful/Uglies (also beautiful).
They are dressed in natural materials like leaves and branches and also wear extravagant headdresses, but depicting nature themes:
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A group of nature-themed Chläuse with suits totally covered in tiny fir branches. These impressed us almost more than the "beautiful" masks. |
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As a thank you, the farmers provide something to drink (the whole group drinks from the same straw!) |
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When they are done chanting, they dance around and shake their bells |
VIDEO: Ringing in the New Year with cow bells
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This group of Nature-Themed Chläusen have headdresses with wood animals |
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This group depicts the woodland animals commonly found here |
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A group of children representing the Nature Group: The singing was barely audible, but it's nice to see them learn the tradition! |
The Beautiful:
These are usually groups of 6 or 7 where two of the men are dressed as women wearing the largest headdresses. The group leader's mask has a white flower on the corner of the mouth.
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The headpieces are intricately-designed and very delicate. |
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Details from the life of the Appenzell people: Here a choir singing in traditional costume |
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More music-themed headpieces |
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Old horse-drawn wagon |
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In this group, life in general in an Appenzell Village |
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In this group, life in general in an Appenzell Village |
VIDEO: A sample of the "singing", which is actually a type of yodeling
(volume probably has to be turned up.)
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This depiction of the construction of a wooden bridge is my favourite |
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In the early morning the groups were out in the snowy countryside, but by afternoon they were singing at the homes in Urnäsch town. |
VIDEO: Heading off from one house to the next
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Here a group of "Beautiful" are taking the headdresses off for a break! |
VIDEO: Drink break to warm up, in the local Gasthof!
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It was wet and cold but not raining, so we were lucky to have seen the Chläusen as the came into the village. |
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A pretty Appenzell house... |
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Were were here in Summer once: The fountain at the Urnäsch train station commemorates this tradition |
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