Walking Tour of the City of Solothurn (Capital City of Canton Solothurn)

(This post created on December 10, 2021)

December 25, 2018 -- We were invited by some friends for Christmas afternoon, so we figured we would take the opportunity to do a tour of the nearby medieval city of Solothurn, a place I lived in for about three weeks back in 1986, but which I didn't really discover for its historical value at the time.

Being Christmas day, all the shops were closed as well as all the restaurants where we had planned to have lunch, as even the restaurant owners wanted to spend time with their families on this day! Furthermore, the day was overcast and all the buildings and the Aar River were rather grey and triste-looking, and yet we were still able to appreciate the fabulous sand-stone architecture, and all the many tiny details on the buildings, from carvings to sun-clocks, to clock-towers, to shop signs, to ancient city walls and towers, including the "crooked tower" (Krummturm) on the opposite side of the river. (Completed in 1463, it is the oldest unaltered building in the city, and is not really "crooked". More information can be found at this LINK)

Our first stop was going to be the main church in Solothurn -- the most prominent landmark as you enter the city -- the St.Ursus Cathedral with its fabulously-carved (1774-75) western façade. (The original gothic church on this site fell into disrepair in the 18th Century). But Christmas service was just taking place, so we did a tour of the Northeast city wall before returning to the Cathedral. Then just down the road we discovered the even more fascinating Baroque Jesuit Church, considered one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in Switzerland, where we spent a lot of time admiring the artwork (more photos from a visit I did there in 2021 can be viewed HERE). We also were lucky to be able to enjoy the Blumenstein Museum's Exhibit of the only Roccoco Nativity Scene in Switzerland, currently on exhibit at the church.

So even though we had to settle for sandwiches purchased at the only open food shop at the railway station, we quite enjoyed the city tour. And it's on our list of things to see again one day, when the weather is better! With 11 churches and chapels, plus the rest of the fortifications, there is still a lot to discover.

Crossing the Aar River from the train station, into the old city of Solothurn. The dominant landmark of the city is the St.Ursen Cathedral

The St. Ursen Cathedral is what we first wanted to look at. 

The ornate West façade of the cathedral, carved toward the end of the 18th Century. Christmas service was just ending, so we decided to come back a bit later to see the inside. 

As the Christmas service was just ending in the cathedral, we decided to walk around the Northeast town wall first, then return to the church. After that we walked around the old town, and crossed the river again to see the "Crooked Tower" before heading back to the train station. 

Heading toward one of the towers... there was something weird on the roof....

The roof tiles were dotted with pigeons!

The Northeast corner of the city wall

Heading back into the city through the eastern gates

Now we can go and have a look at the interior of the cathedral, as most of the people have left by now. 

Another look at the west façade of the cathedral. Date carved into the stone is 1769

What I love most about cathedrals are the beautiful ceilings

A very ornate altarpiece

Some more very artistic details inside the St. Ursen Cathedral

Looking down the main street of old town Solothurn from the steps of the cathedral. 

As we start down the main street to look at the old buildings, we noticed this interesting Christmas decoration!!! Santa delivering Christmas presents in a Citroën?

In front of the Jesuit Church we saw a sign advertising a museum display of the "Solothurn Ambassador Nativity", the only such Rococo display in Switzerland. 

Created in the mid-18th Century in the former Soloturn Franziskan Convent, each figure is carved from Linden wood and has sophisticated moveable limbs. The heads are made of wax. With glass eyes and real hair, the figures look very realistic. 

Each figure was about 1 meter tall and looked very realistic. This is the only display of its kind in Switzerland. The figures are from the mid-18th Century. 

Besides the Nativity display, the Baroque church was absolutely stunning. 

The organ almost disappears up high above several tiers of balconies. 

Heading on down main street, this is a look back at the St.Ursen Cathedral and the façade of the Jesuit church on the right. 

Next stop of interest: The fascinatng clock tower. 

Details of the clock tower: The clock on top, an astronomical clock on the bottom, and a coat of arms of some kind, dating from 1545!!

Next to the clock tower is a hotel called "Hotel de la Tour Rouge", aptly marked with a red tower sign! 

Continuing down one of the interesting side streets. 

More interesting signs advertising specialty shops

This restaurant "Zum Alten Stephan" has apparently been here since 1038!!!

Now we're crossing the Aar River back to the South side, to have a look at the "Krummturm", or "Crooked Tower".

The "Crooked Tower" is actually not crooked. It only appears that way because it has a pentagonal-shaped roof. This tower dates from 1463 and is the oldest unaltered structure in Solothurn. 

One of the highlights we had planned for this day as well was to ride the private railway line called the "Solothurn-Niederbipp Bahn".

Eating our Christmas lunch on the train on the way to visit our friends: A sandwich from the "Brezel-König", the only food shop open in the city. At least it's smoked salmon, a special treat!

Sunny Hillside Hike above the Magadino Plain: Gordemo to Cugnasco

Saturday December 22 -- I've mentioned this many times: When it rains North of the Alps, it's often sunny South of the Alps, that's why we spend so much time in Canton Ticino in the winter months.

Although temperature-wise it felt almost colder in Locarno/Lugano than when we left Zug in the morning, the sunshine warmed the South-facing hillside nicely enough during the day for another enjoyable hike through the vineyards of the Magadino Plain area... 

We chose this route to connect between two others we did earlier this year. It was a lovely variation of narrow paved roads from vineyard to vineyard and hamlet to hamlet, intersperced with small forest trails through small gullies, surprisingly lush with greenery such as the local Ticino palms and loads of ferns. Always fascinating here is the abundance of succulents and cacti growing out of the meticulously-built supporting walls. Wall lizards and housecats were also enjoying this winter sunshine. 

The variety of structures we passed on the way, from decrepit stone stables, to renovated Rustici homes, to modern cubistic cement structures and extravagant homes on multiple-layered stone-walled terraces with the background of snow-covered mountains provided us with lots of variety at every turn... 

Also, turns out the trail we were on (for the most part) was part of an autodidactic trail created by the local communities (called "Percorsa vite", or "Vineyard Trail") to instruct hikers on the aspects of wine agriculture in this area. Among other things we learned that there are strict regulations for the production of Ticino Merlot: The farmers may only grow ONE (1) kg of grapes per square meter of land. Any additional grapes must be removed or the quality of the fruit, and thus of the wine, will be reduced. 

Heading up through the village of Gordemo to join the trail where we'd come down from earlier this year. From there we headed East along this side of the hill. Behind us is the wide open Magadino Plain

To the South is Lago Maggiore. This Church is called Oratorio della Freccia and we passed by there on a different hike earlier in the year.

Walking from vineyard to vineyard along the hillside with Southern exposure. In the background is the Maggia Delta with the cities of Ascona and Locarno

Much of the original building material in this area is stone: Old stables, renovated Rustici, brand new homes in the old stone style, and lots and lots of stone retaining walls.

These stairs made of stone slabs set into the house walls are always fascinating

"The Vineyard Trail", all kinds of information along the way about the agriculture of grape growing and wine production

Lizards enjoying the sunshine and lots of them scurrying out of our way along the trail

The trail often runs right through such properties

Perfect Southern exposure for grape production

And the size of the succulents!

Succulents, vineyards, lovely sunshine

Here was the perfect spot for our picnic lunch

This modern house with so many retaining walls must cost a fortune.

Our path continued eastward from village to village, with always something new around each bend.

Perfect location for cacti to thrive

This modern house definitely needed my help

And these people probably figured it would cost too much to remove this boulder

Warm and balmy December day in our Swiss Mediterranean

Heading back down to the valley bottom to the same spot where we ended a separate hike coming along this same mountainside but starting further East.

And Cats, also enjoying the sunshine

This 9-km walk took us 3 hours 45 minutes. We were not in a hurry!

Earlier this year we did a hike coming from the East and ending in Cugnasco, this time we started in the West near the Verzasca Dam, and ended also in Cugnasco