December 22, 2018

Sunny Hillside Hike above the Magadino Plain: Gordemo to Cugnasco

Saturday December 22 -- I've mentioned this many times: When it rains North of the Alps, it's often sunny South of the Alps, that's why we spend so much time in Canton Ticino in the winter months.

Although temperature-wise it felt almost colder in Locarno/Lugano than when we left Zug in the morning, the sunshine warmed the South-facing hillside nicely enough during the day for another enjoyable hike through the vineyards of the Magadino Plain area... 

We chose this route to connect between two others we did earlier this year. It was a lovely variation of narrow paved roads from vineyard to vineyard and hamlet to hamlet, intersperced with small forest trails through small gullies, surprisingly lush with greenery such as the local Ticino palms and loads of ferns. Always fascinating here is the abundance of succulents and cacti growing out of the meticulously-built supporting walls. Wall lizards and housecats were also enjoying this winter sunshine. 

The variety of structures we passed on the way, from decrepit stone stables, to renovated Rustici homes, to modern cubistic cement structures and extravagant homes on multiple-layered stone-walled terraces with the background of snow-covered mountains provided us with lots of variety at every turn... 

Also, turns out the trail we were on (for the most part) was part of an autodidactic trail created by the local communities (called "Percorsa vite", or "Vineyard Trail") to instruct hikers on the aspects of wine agriculture in this area. Among other things we learned that there are strict regulations for the production of Ticino Merlot: The farmers may only grow ONE (1) kg of grapes per square meter of land. Any additional grapes must be removed or the quality of the fruit, and thus of the wine, will be reduced. 


Heading up through the village of Gordemo to join the trail where we'd come down from earlier this year. From there we headed East along this side of the hill. Behind us is the wide open Magadino Plain

To the South is Lago Maggiore. This Church is called Oratorio della Freccia and we passed by there on a different hike earlier in the year.

Walking from vineyard to vineyard along the hillside with Southern exposure. In the background is the Maggia Delta with the cities of Ascona and Locarno

Much of the original building material in this area is stone: Old stables, renovated Rustici, brand new homes in the old stone style, and lots and lots of stone retaining walls.
These stairs made of stone slabs set into the house walls are always fascinating

"The Vineyard Trail", all kinds of information along the way about the agriculture of grape growing and wine production



Lizards enjoying the sunshine and lots of them scurrying out of our way along the trail

The trail often runs right through such properties

Perfect Southern exposure for grape production

And the size of the succulents!

Succulents, vineyards, lovely sunshine

Here was the perfect spot for our picnic lunch

This modern house with so many retaining walls must cost a fortune.

Our path continued eastward from village to village, with always something new around each bend.

Perfect location for cacti to thrive

This modern house definitely needed my help

And these people probably figured it would cost too much to remove this boulder

Warm and balmy December day in our Swiss Mediterranean

Heading back down to the valley bottom to the same spot where we ended a separate hike coming along this same mountainside but starting further East.

And Cats, also enjoying the sunshine

This 9-km walk took us 3 hours 45 minutes. We were not in a hurry!
Earlier this year we did a hike coming from the East and ending in Cugnasco, this time we started in the West near the Verzasca Dam, and ended also in Cugnasco


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