December 25, 2018

Walking Tour of the City of Solothurn (Capital City of Canton Solothurn)

(This post created on December 10, 2021)

December 25, 2018 -- We were invited by some friends for Christmas afternoon, so we figured we would take the opportunity to do a tour of the nearby medieval city of Solothurn, a place I lived in for about three weeks back in 1986, but which I didn't really discover for its historical value at the time.

Being Christmas day, all the shops were closed as well as all the restaurants where we had planned to have lunch, as even the restaurant owners wanted to spend time with their families on this day! Furthermore, the day was overcast and all the buildings and the Aar River were rather grey and triste-looking, and yet we were still able to appreciate the fabulous sand-stone architecture, and all the many tiny details on the buildings, from carvings to sun-clocks, to clock-towers, to shop signs, to ancient city walls and towers, including the "crooked tower" (Krummturm) on the opposite side of the river. (Completed in 1463, it is the oldest unaltered building in the city, and is not really "crooked". More information can be found at this LINK)

Our first stop was going to be the main church in Solothurn -- the most prominent landmark as you enter the city -- the St.Ursus Cathedral with its fabulously-carved (1774-75) western façade. (The original gothic church on this site fell into disrepair in the 18th Century). But Christmas service was just taking place, so we did a tour of the Northeast city wall before returning to the Cathedral. Then just down the road we discovered the even more fascinating Baroque Jesuit Church, considered one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in Switzerland, where we spent a lot of time admiring the artwork (more photos from a visit I did there in 2021 can be viewed HERE). We also were lucky to be able to enjoy the Blumenstein Museum's Exhibit of the only Roccoco Nativity Scene in Switzerland, currently on exhibit at the church.

So even though we had to settle for sandwiches purchased at the only open food shop at the railway station, we quite enjoyed the city tour. And it's on our list of things to see again one day, when the weather is better! With 11 churches and chapels, plus the rest of the fortifications, there is still a lot to discover.

Crossing the Aar River from the train station, into the old city of Solothurn. The dominant landmark of the city is the St.Ursen Cathedral

The St. Ursen Cathedral is what we first wanted to look at. 


The ornate West façade of the cathedral, carved toward the end of the 18th Century. Christmas service was just ending, so we decided to come back a bit later to see the inside. 



As the Christmas service was just ending in the cathedral, we decided to walk around the Northeast town wall first, then return to the church. After that we walked around the old town, and crossed the river again to see the "Crooked Tower" before heading back to the train station. 

Heading toward one of the towers... there was something weird on the roof....

The roof tiles were dotted with pigeons!

The Northeast corner of the city wall

Heading back into the city through the eastern gates

Now we can go and have a look at the interior of the cathedral, as most of the people have left by now. 

Another look at the west façade of the cathedral. Date carved into the stone is 1769

What I love most about cathedrals are the beautiful ceilings

A very ornate altarpiece

Some more very artistic details inside the St. Ursen Cathedral

Looking down the main street of old town Solothurn from the steps of the cathedral. 

As we start down the main street to look at the old buildings, we noticed this interesting Christmas decoration!!! Santa delivering Christmas presents in a Citroën?


In front of the Jesuit Church we saw a sign advertising a museum display of the "Solothurn Ambassador Nativity", the only such Rococo display in Switzerland. 

Created in the mid-18th Century in the former Soloturn Franziskan Convent, each figure is carved from Linden wood and has sophisticated moveable limbs. The heads are made of wax. With glass eyes and real hair, the figures look very realistic. 

Each figure was about 1 meter tall and looked very realistic. This is the only display of its kind in Switzerland. The figures are from the mid-18th Century. 

Besides the Nativity display, the Baroque church was absolutely stunning. 

The organ almost disappears up high above several tiers of balconies. 

Heading on down main street, this is a look back at the St.Ursen Cathedral and the façade of the Jesuit church on the right. 

Next stop of interest: The fascinatng clock tower. 

Details of the clock tower: The clock on top, an astronomical clock on the bottom, and a coat of arms of some kind, dating from 1545!!

Next to the clock tower is a hotel called "Hotel de la Tour Rouge", aptly marked with a red tower sign! 

Continuing down one of the interesting side streets. 

More interesting signs advertising specialty shops

This restaurant "Zum Alten Stephan" has apparently been here since 1038!!!


Now we're crossing the Aar River back to the South side, to have a look at the "Krummturm", or "Crooked Tower".

The "Crooked Tower" is actually not crooked. It only appears that way because it has a pentagonal-shaped roof. This tower dates from 1463 and is the oldest unaltered structure in Solothurn. 

One of the highlights we had planned for this day as well was to ride the private railway line called the "Solothurn-Niederbipp Bahn".

Eating our Christmas lunch on the train on the way to visit our friends: A sandwich from the "Brezel-König", the only food shop open in the city. At least it's smoked salmon, a special treat!







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