Sunshine above the Fog in the Muota Valley, Ibergeregg to Illgau

Thursday November 5, 2026 -- Uggh, it's that time of year again when the lower areas north of the Alps are covered in fog and you never feel warm.... and even if the weather forecast is for sunshine, you still are never sure if the sunshine is for ABOVE the fog, and depending on how high the fog is, not sure if and where you might be able to go to get higher than that!

For a couple days earlier this week, the weather forecast was for lots of sunshine in many areas around the country on Thursday, and I wanted to go out for a walk again, get out of the fog, obviously. I monitored the webcams for a couple of days and observed that the mountains in Canton Schwyz around the Muota Valley were consistently above the fog (very common in winter) and accessible to me via the Rotenflue cable-way or a small bus to the Ibergeregg Pass, from where there are still several trails I had not yet hiked along the north flank above the Muota Valley (the sunny side!). Furthermore, it only takes about 90 minutes of travel time to get there.

Sure enough, as the little bus traveled up to the pass, we emerged from the fog into the sunshine, but that didn't last long, as higher up there were clouds which then quickly hid the sun, and there was a cold wind blowing. As I headed down the mountain, I was surprised that the fog rolled up the Muota Valley, and even though some may think fog has its charm, I really don't want to hike in the fog.

In the end, by the time I reached Illgau (a mountain village from where you can descend to valley bottom by cable car), the fog had lifted, and I continued on foot to the valley bottom, which at this time of year is in shadow anyway by early afternoon. Still, the colours in the forests are outstanding right now, and I still got to walk through pastures where the cows are enjoying the late fall as well. 

PART I: Getting to Ibergeregg Pass
Even though it's only a 90-minute trip to get to the Ibergeregg Pass, I still have a transfer time of  almost 35 minutes in the town of Schwyz, so I walked along the main road to a bus stop further up the road, and admired some of the interesting buildings in this town, the Capital city of Canton Schwyz. I left home at 9:10, and got to Schwyz main town at 10 a.m.

This beautiful building is the city hall in Schwyz. A city hall was mentioned in documents of 1314, then a new one was built in 1593, which burned down along with the town's church and 45 other houses in a massive fire in 1642. This building was erected a year later but due to instability, rebuilt again in 1777. The paintings depict the events of the "Battle of Morgarten" in 1315. 

The Late-Baroque church of St. Martin's from the mid-18th Century is the 6th church at this location, the first having been built in 730. It is considered one of the most grandiose parish churches in Switzerland. I didn't go in this time, as I have visited it at least twice, most recently in August 2020. 

This little building is the ossuary that belongs to the church. You cannot really see inside and it is locked. (Info HERE). (Side note, it looks like the fog is trying to lift a bit now!)

I then continued up the road toward the next bus stop where the Ibergeregg bus would stop (I had about 20 minutes to kill) and passed a property I had never seen before. As the gates were open, I went in. 

Inside the courtyard... the building on the left is the city's library! The beautiful building is the Reding Manor House built in 1636. 

And this building called the Bethlehem House, built in about 1287, is considered to be the oldest wooden house in Europe. Both the buildings here are open for viewing from May 1st to October 31st most afternoons. I will have to make a point to come back again!

Road-side of the Reding Manor House. 

Then a look behind me and higher up the hill to the towers of the Kollegium, which is actually a high-school!  

At 10:22 I got picked up at the next bus stop by a small van (which was already full, about 20 people, but with one single empty seat for me next to the right side window!) and the bus headed up the hill toward the Ibergeregg Pass, quickly passing out of the fog.

The winding road up to the Ibergeregg Pass. Looking westward we can see Mount Pilatus at the very far back, and the summit of Mt. Rigi on the far right. The town of Schwyz is down below in the fog somewhere! Directly below is a clearing which serves as a parking area for the nearby ski cable-way. We passed here once in winter and that lot was FULL! (photo HERE). 

By 10:45 the van-bus spits out most of the passengers at the pass, then continues down the other side northwards to Oberiberg. The pass is at 1406 meters a.s.l. and is usually fog-free. This is also a popular skiing area. (We did a winter hike around this pass in January of 2024).

This is the north side of the pass. In retrospect, the weather ended up clearer on this side to the north, but I have already hiked most of the trails down this valley, and still have a few to cover on the south side. (Side note, I walked along that hillside on November 6, 2024, almost two years to the day ago). 

As is so often the case, just as I started out on my hike, some clouds covered the sun. So no fog, but also not as much sunshine as expected! Also, there was a bit of a cold wind blowing and I had forgotten my scarf.

PART II: Walk down to Illgau in the Direction of Muota Valley

From the pass, it is about two hours to walk down to Illgau, a little village perched on the edge of the vertical cliffs that form the north side of the Muota Valley. I walked there from here once before in August 2023, but took a different trail this time. In Illgau you can take a small cable-car to the valley bottom, but this time I walked all the way down, an additional 25 minutes or so, making this a 2½-hour hike. 

There is a cable-car from St.Karl to Illgau, one we have not ridden yet. The walk to Illgau is about two hours, and then an additional 30 minutes to valley bottom. 

The very first part of the hike is on a trail I had done once before in November 2024, almost to the day two years ago. At that time I then crossed back over the crest and headed north to Oberiberg. At that time I also set up my camera for a photo on that bench. Looking back, it was the same fog also that day! (Photo HERE).   

Close-up view of the thick fog blanketing the entire Lake Lucerne Region. This is considered a relatively high fog!

The clearing below the summit of the Greater Mythen (Gross Mythen) has a lot of sunshine right now. I could have walked in that direction as well, although we have done that route several times. You can also reach that clearing with the Rotenflue gondola cable car from Rickenbach (Schwyz) on the other side. 

A close-up view of the Grosse Mythen with its reddish top and the restaurant at the summit! It is a popular peak to hike up to. You can just make out the zigzag trail up to the summit. We walked up to the summit once, in September 2014, but it was a very foggy day and we barely saw anything. (Normally I would not do this, but it had been planned with two other people for that day and we could not cancel).  

This panorama view includes the mountain village of Stoos on the left, which has quite a bit of sun. 

On my November 2024 hike, I headed north over the crest from here. This time I am headed southward down the mountain to Illgau. This farm is called "Ober Altberg".

Another look behind me at the Ober Altberg Farm. 

My trail now passes by this house called Eseltritt. There is a bus stop along the pass road on the other side. 

Once in a while I need a photo with a person on it! Heading toward "Eseltritt". The trail heads down the hill before reaching the house. (Side note, there is a cold wind blowing, and with less sun than I had expected, it was also colder than I'd expected!)

Heading in a somewhat more easterly direction, I was "apalled" to see that the fog was creeping up a side valley at my level!

And what I totally wasn't expecting was that the fog would make its way all the way up the Muota Valley. In fact, the village of Illgau where I am headed is currently hiding under that fog cloud, as is the valley bottom where I ultimately want to go. This poses a dilemma for me, as I do not at all like to walk in the fog. 

But for now, forgetting about the fog, I encounter a pasture of curious cows... and my trail leads right through their enclosure! In fact, one of them is standing directly on the trail that I am expected to walk on!

Looking behind me from inside the enclosure to the farm buildings at "Ober Hasen" farm. How blue the sky is on the north side of the crest! The cows actually came running over to greet me. 

Far to the east, past the back of the Muota Valley, are the Glärnisch mountains in Canton Glarus. (It is a large limestone region harboring one of the largest cave systems in the world). 

Another farm. This one is called Moosberg. 

The fall colours are quite pretty here as well. 

It looks like the fog is lifting over Illgau below! I might just be lucky....

Up ahead at the corner of the road, the trail heads downhill through a pasture, where I had once also descended when coming down the mountain from the right, that other time I had done the hike from Ibergeregg Pass to Illgau in August 2023. 

It is now 12:45, and YAY!, the fog has lifted somewhat and I can now see down to the village of Illgau! 

Back on my August 2023 hike, also from the Ibergeregg Pass to Illgau but via the Fallenflue forest to the west, I had also passed by this cute spot, where a whole "Insect Hotel Village" is set up! As it was now 12:45, I had my lunch break here and stayed for half an hour.... 

The view from my lunch spot!

Down below is the Guggenhürli Farm which I also passed by on my way to Illgau the last time I was here in 2023. 

Just like last time (photo HERE), this was a good place to set up my camera for a photo of me with the village of Illgau below!

I caught sight of the St.Karl cable-car arriving into the village of Illgau. I was surprised, because I thought it only ran in winter! It's a cable-way we have yet to try out!

Final stretch down to the village. The fog has totally lifted now, which is a bonus for me, because my plan was to descend on foot to the valley bottom. 

At 13:35 I had reached the main road into Illgau. A short distance up this road is the cable-car station to get to the valley bottom, but I want to walk down, and the trail heads directly down the cliff-side here on the right. 

Even though this is the third time I have been here in the village, I have still not ever gone into the little church! The most recent time we were here, when we started a hike here in July 2025, we passed by the church but didn't go in because there was construction going on.

PART III: Continuing down to Valley Bottom

From Illgau there is a cable-car down to valley bottom, where a bus travels every 30 minutes out of the valley to Schwyz. I have taken this cable-car twice before, but this time wanted to walk all the way down. The valley bottom is now in shadow at this time of year as the sun is behind the southern mountains. I could have taken the bus at the cable-car station, but continued down the road to have a look at a church we have passed many times by bus. 

The trail along the cliff wall was a bit rough going down, lots of rocks under the fallen leaves. 

View toward the back of the Muota Valley as I head down to valley bottom. We have been here often!

Just now the cable car descends from Illgau. Had I headed to the station earlier, I probably could have ridden along with whomever was descending. Also, we would have caught an earlier bus this way, at the bottom station. 

It is always nice to walk on forest trails here. 

By 2 p.m. I was at valley bottom. Even though there is already shadow here from the high mountains to the south, the sun is still shining on the cliff walls, and the waterfall here (Bettbach Falls, dropping 160 meters to valley bottom). Up at the arrow is the summit station of the cable-car that you can use to get up to the village of Illgau. This also shows how steep the cliffs are here. 

I am lucky that the fog has now lifted here and I can enjoy the fall colours. I could have walked up valley to the bus stop at the cable-car station, but I chose to walk along the main road down-valley to the next bus stop in the community of Ried, as there is a road-side church there I wanted to have a look at. 

Very nice houses here in this region! This is in a community called Ried. 

Now I am approaching the church building which we have passed many times by bus in our journeys into this, the Muota Valley. According to Internet research, it is called "Filialkirche Maria vom Guten Rat" and was built in 1914. 

Interior of the church in Ried

Details of the interior of the church, built in 1914. 

A look back a the church. The town of Illgau is atop the cliffs on the left. 

Cute chalets in Ried

Lovely colours on the hillsides here, but the valley bottom is already in shadow at this time of year at 2 p.m. 

Here's the bus at 14:26 (two minutes late) for the trip back out of the Muota Valley. I was back home in 75 minutes!

Another typical house in this region. 

These are all the hikes we have done starting at or passing through the Ibergeregg Pass!

Location of the Ibergeregg Pass and the Muota Valley within Switzerland. 

SIDE NOTE: I seem to like hiking this region in November! I also did a hike around the Mythen mountains and down to the town of Schwyz almost exactly one year ago on November 5, 2025 !!!