Bever to St.Moritz in the Upper Engadine, and Hillsides Covered in Fiery Larches

Saturday October 31, 2026 -- For the final (and 10th) hike of October, we decided to do a longer-than usual trip through the country, eight hours on train and bus (there and back) for a 3½-hour walk.... something I try to avoid. The trip was to St.Moritz in the Upper Engadine to take advantage of the beauty of the colouring larches, which turn the mountain flanks to fiery yellow at this time of year. And two main attractions we wanted to witness are the roof-less tower of the St.John (San Gian) Church in Celerina, and the Instagram-famous Lake Staz near St.Moritz, photographed often for the reflection of the colouring trees in the mirror-still waters (although for us, the waters were not as still as hoped). 

Ideally, we should have spent the night in the region and done a second hike on Sunday, which is something we had considered because both days promised to be beautiful with pure sunshine. But whilst the maximum temperatures on Saturday were 8 degrees, Sunday's forecast was for maximum 3 degrees Celcius, and I am just not ready yet for hiking in those temperatures.

Back in September of 2016 we had rented a vacation home for a week right in the center of the Upper and Lower Engadine Regions (in Cinuos-Chel) and had done several outings from there, which is something I would love to do again. On this trip, the train was not running directly from Chur to St.Moritz via the Albula Tunnel, so our trip took us through the Vereina Tunnel and the lower Engadine, so we relived the time we had spent there, recognizing many places we'd passed through at the time. And the colours were indeed majestic.

We don't often do such long day trips, but once in a while it's OK, and I sleep on the train so the journey seems quick!

PART I: Four-Hour Train and Bus Ride to the Engadin, via Klosters and Vereina Tunnel
(Back in August 2022 we did a fantastic hike from the Albula Pass to Bever in the Upper Engadine, and wanted to start this day's hike to St.Moritz in Bever where we had ended last time. Normally we would have taken the Bernina Express Route via Chur and Preda, through the Albula Tunnel directly to Bever, but there was construction on that line. So our trip there was via Klosters and the Vereina Tunnel, passing through the Lower Engadine through a region we had spent a week in 2016 discovering. 

This is the stretch in the Prättigau between Landquart and the Vereina Tunnel. The deciduous forests here are also glowing! Having left home at just after 7 a.m., we reached Klosters at about 10 a.m., from where the train heads into the Vereina Tunnel.

At Klosters is the beautiful 525-meter long Sunnigberg Bridge, designed by the renowned Swiss bridge builder Christian Menn. 

Normally we would have taken the Bernina Express Route from Chur directly to Bever via Filisur and the Albula Tunnel, but there was construction going on along that line from October 29th to November 13th, and all the trains were running via Landquart and Klosters and the Vereina Tunnel. In Zuoz we had to change to a bus to get to Bever, which is where we wanted to start on our hike to St.Moritz. 

After emerging from the Vereina Tunnel, the train heads in a southwest direction up the valley, following the Inn River, which is also known as the En here, from whence comes the name "Engadin". (The En has its source to the southwest of St.Moritz near the Lughin Pass, and flows 518 kilometers across the border to Austria and eventually into the Danube via Innsbruck).  

A look back down the Lower Engadin Valley as the train passes the town of Zernez. 

Beautiful yellow colouring of the larches which cover most of the mountainsides here. This is what we came for! Across the canyon dug by the river is the village of Brail, which is near where we spent a week in a vacation rental in September 2016. 

This view is up the Sausauna Valley, which leads up to the Scaletta Pass and down into the Dischma Valley near Davos, a hike I would love to do one day. Back in 2016 when we rented a vacation apartment for a week in the next town over, we walked through here. 

How nice that the cattle are still outside at this time of year in these mountains!

Now we are approaching the town of Zuoz, where we have to change to a bus to continue on to the town of Bever, further up the valley. (The train we were in did not stop in Bever). 

10:48 train arrived in Zuoz, and 10:53 the bus continued on to Bever. 

The bus passes through the community of Madulain. 

The bus has to navigate very narrow streets through the villages!

View from the front seat in the bus as it travels next to the Inn/En River on the way to Bever. 

Ahead of us are the stunning snow-covered peaks of the Bernina Massif. 

At just after 11 a.m. we arrived in Bever, passing the village church on the way to the train station. 

This is the Bever train station where we are starting on today's long walk to St.Moritz. Back in August 2022, we ended a hike here, after starting at the Albula Pass, crossing the Crap Alv Pass and walking all the way down the Bever Valley. 

A view down the road from the railway station. We decided not to make the detour to the village church, as our hiking trail was in the opposite direction. 

View up the Bever Valley along the Beverin River. It is along that path that we came out of the valley on the August 2022 Hike.  In particular, this is a photo of me at about the same place at the time --> Photo HERE. 

PART II: Hike from Bever to Samedan

This was a four-kilometer stretch, slightly uphill, mostly through the yellowing larch forests, with some nice views over the valley. In Samedan we "visited " three churches, two of which were locked up! Very disappointing, as the main town's church is apparently one of the most beautiful ecclesiatical buildings in Canton Graubünden. 

Starting at about 11 a.m. (it was only 2 degreesC!!!) we walked to Samedan--which we had passed through many times before by bus or train, but never walked through--then crossed the Inn River and walked to the St.Gian church (which we could not even access because there was a wedding happening), then to Lake Staz, and finally to get back to St.Moritz for the 15:45 train. In all a 12-km walk. 

Just as we start up the hill, one of the little red trains from the Rhätian Railway passes by!

Heading up the hill from Bever on a forest trail, with a view down to the open plateau and the air strip, as well as the railway line to St.Moritz. Unfortunately for us, there was a small plane practicing taking off and landing, making several loops above us (those small planes are noisy!)

I originally thought that those trees were covered in frost, as it was in the negative degrees at night, but those are marsh trees with silver leaves!

Watching a larger jet take off from the airstrip. How graceful this looks!

Emerging from the forest at a view point, we see over the city of Samedan. Side note: Samedan has been an important transport hub as far back as the Middle Ages. It was here that pack-animal trains—traveling from south to north and from east to west across the mountain passes—would cross paths.  (Info from Samedan Website). 

A tall steeple dominates the center of the town. Of course, we are going to pass by there later. 

We are always happy to find benches with a view for a bit of a break!

Another view over the city of Samedan. The valley on the left heads up past Pontresina to the Morteratsch Glacier and the Bernina Pass. The arrow in the center is the little roofless church tower we are headed to next, and the arrow on the right is the direction to Lake Staz. And down below I caught sight of another church, an older-looking one. (The first one we had seen with the tall bell-tower is on the left). 

A zoomed view of the second church, older-looking, and a detour was necessary as well. (It wasn't really old, it just looked it from here). 

We could have headed directly down into the town from here, but an alternate, higher trail was possible, and it's always nice to stay high up as long as possible!

And now ANOTHER church makes its appearance! This is the special one, it is called San Peter. (We didn't research beforehand, but found out when we got there that the building is always locked, and you can get a key at the tourism office). 

Translated from the Internet: "The medieval village settlement is believed to have been located here. Only the bell tower remains as evidence of the original Romanesque structure, which dates back to the 12th century. The current church, built in the late Gothic style, was constructed from 1490 onwards. San Peter underwent its most recent comprehensive renovation in 2017."

We were disappointed that the church building was locked. A quick Internet search informed us that we could get the key at the tourism office, but that was located at the north end of the town, in the opposite direction to where we were headed. So we did without. On this WEBSITE are some photos of the interior. This view is from the small bench we found at a little building here, where we had our picnic lunch. 

As we then headed down into the town at 12:40, we saw that there was a whole row of benches on the sunny side of the cemetery wall, where we could have enjoyed our picnic lunch instead of the spot near the parking lot where we had stopped before going onto the church grounds!

Next stop: The Catholic Church of the "Sacred Heart of Jesus" ("Herz-Jesu"). The stone construction gives it an older look, but it is just over 100 years old, having been completed in 1913 after three years of construction. 

This is the interior of the 1913 "Sacred Heart" church in Samedan

A look back at the bell tower of the Sacred Heart church as we head down toward the center of the old town, toward the third church. 

Up ahead is the bell tower of the principle church in Samedan, the Reformed Church. We are really looking forward to seeing this one, as it is most likely an original Catholic Church taken over by the protestants during the reformation. 

Just our luck!!!! It is now just before 1 p.m., and this building just happens to be closed during lunch hour, 11:30 to 13:30! We had never heard of this. Although on THIS WEBSITE, it claims to be open from 9:00 to 17:00. And to make matters worse, here is the description, translated: "This church is one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical buildings in the Canton of Graubünden. It was created in 1770–71....The organ was installed in 1772. The tower, built in 1773, serves as the landmark of Samedan."

 30 minutes was too long for us to wait around this day to view the inside of the church, so we continued down the main road to the outskirts of town, where we would cross the Inn River and head to the San Gian roofless church tower.

Here is a beautiful Engadine house, built in 1586, renovated in 1937. These houses have lots of very nice painted facades, called Sgraffiti. 

I wonder how small the people in Medieval times really were!

Another lovely painted house at the south end of town. 

Final look up to the St.Peter's church above Samedan, as we head out of town to cross the river. 

Another look at the trail where we crossed the river and passed by the San Gian church, headed up through the forest to Lake Staz, and then over to the train station in St.Moritz, next to Lake St.Moritz, or rather "Lej da San Murezzan" in the local Romantsch dialect. 

PART III: Samedan to the St.Gian Church

This next section was 2½ kilometers through a marshy area and along a small stream called the Flaz Vegl, then accessing the St.Gian Church from the back side of the hill. We were disappointed to see that there was a wedding going on, which meant we could not look at the inside of this church either. We did find out that the building is generally locked anyway, and only available for weddings or church services. 

Crossing the Inn River at the south end of Samedan. There were some nice reflections here. 

Looking up the Inn River toward Celerina. 

We walked through a marsh area and along a small stream on the way to the little hill atop which the church perches. 

Pleasant walk along the "Flaz Vegl" stream. (I'm not sure about the meaning of the name, but "Vegl" has something to do with age, so possibly it means the "Old Flaz", because this watercourse leads off the main Flaz River and enters the Inn where we crossed the bridge). 

Flez Vegl stream, flowing off the main Flaz River (which descends from Pontresina) and connects to the Inn River. 

We are approaching the San Gian church from the back of the hill. There is a small path from here that leads straight up to the cemetery. The tower was hit by lightning in 1682 and the roof was never rebuilt. 

Heading up toward the little church on the hill, we can see a building at the top of that mountain. It is the summit station of the Muottas Muragl funicular, and the starting point of a very popular high alpine trail. Due to the nice weather, the funicular was still in operation this weekend. It might have been a good option for us (we had not yet been up there), had we stayed here for the night. (We did pass the base station earlier this year in April, when we were in Pontresina, hoping to see the ibex). 

We came right up to a wedding taking place! We still walked up to the church from the back, then passed via most of the guests milling around the front of the church. Maybe we should have asked for a quick peek inside, as the church is otherwise locked to visitors anyway (except for a couple of hours each week in summer). 

Final look at the front of the church as the guests go inside. Reading up on the history of the church: It was first mentioned in documents of 1320, thus the Romanesque tower. The building as it now stands is from a rebuild of 1478, and apparently the interior is covered in frescoes from 1480/1490.

So as not to interrupt the wedding event too much, we headed right down the steps again and away from the church building. 

From down on the road, a look back at Samedan again, with the little church of St. Peter higher on the hill. The valley at the back is the Bever Valley, which we walked out of on the August 2022 hike. 

A look back at the pretty church from the road now. At the top of the hill on the right we once again see the summit station of the Muottas Muragl funicular.

VIDEO:

Just as we descended the stairs from the little church on the hill,

the church bells rang to announce the start of the wedding service.

And now a final look back at the church as we head down to the forest trail, which we followed up to the little lake called "Lej da Staz", or Lake Staz. 

PART VI: Lake Staz and St.Moritz

From the site of the little church on the hill, it would be another 35 minutes to walk, slightly uphill, on a forest trail (2 km). We were worried that the lake would be in the shadow of the late afternoon sun, but it was not. We got there at 2:20 p.m., and stayed there for about 45 minutes. 

Lake Staz is hidden in the forest up ahead!

We have to cross a bridge over the main road, with a view toward the town of Celerina. 

After only 30 minutes of walking, mostly through forest, we reached Lake Staz at about 2:20 p.m. 

The Lei da Staz Restaurant at the north end of Lake Staz. It was closed. 

Here at the north end of the lake, the wind was blowing, and we had no chance of a "mirror" photo!

This group looks like they are tanking some energy to climb Mount Everest!

We found a little boardwalk on the side of the lake where the water was relatively still, for that "mirror" photo! Those boys were having a good time.... 

I came here to get this photos! Side Note: The city of St.Moritz is on the other side of the hill behind me, which is reached by a wide road on the other side of the lake, and then down below on the left is Lake St.Moritz, which has a lakeside path all the way to the train station. 

All the other tourists took the wider road around the lake and down to Lake St.Moritz (also called Lej da San Murezzan in the local language), but we took an unofficial forest trail over the little hill so that we could, once again, be alone on the trail. 

Instead of following the lakeside trail, our path emerged from the forest on a higher road, parallel to the St.Moritz Lake, with some interesting houses to admire along the way. 

Down below we can see one of the wider trails that descends from Lake Staz on the left, and follows the lakeshore here, although it's not the main trail.  

What a very pretty entry-way on this house. And the wrought-iron window protectors are attractive as well!

I had hoped to get a really nice view southwest over Lake St.Moritz, but only the houses themselves had unobstructed views! The land inbetween still sported large trees! In that case, the people walking the boring trail below had better views!

The most that we saw of the Lake San Murezzan. 

By 15:34 we had reached the Hotel Waldhaus, which sits on a promontory on the north side of the lake, just a couple of minutes from the train station. 

From the site of the hotel you look down at the lakeside trail where all the visitors to Lake Staz (in the dip in the center of the photo) are walking. We walked along the hillside on the left. 

Our train leaves at 15:47, so that still gives us a few minutes for that photo of the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" which I need for my collection!

The city of St.Moritz and the train station, which you reach via that bridge across the Inn River, which flows out of here and down the Engadine to the border with Austria. 

A cool mirror ball on the grounds of the hotel! You can just see us in the center!

These were the temperatures of the day: 2 degrees when we started in Bever at 11 a.m., and 8 degrees when we were at Lake Staz at about 3 p.m. And the temperatures for the next day are maximum 3 degrees, and that's for early afternoon at the soonest!

What our hike looks like on Google satellite maps, starting in Bever at 11 a.m., walking via Samedan to San Gian church, then up to Lake Staz and then to the train station in St.Moritz, which we reached at about 3:40 p.m. 

All the hikes we have done in the Upper Engadine region around St.Moritz, Pontresina, and the Bernina Pass. 

PART V: Heading back down the Lower Engadine Valley on the way home.

Leaving St.Moritz at 15:47, we head back down the Engadine valley once again, toward the Vereina Tunnel at Zernez, which we reached at 4:30 p.m., and it was all in shadow by then. Altogether a four-hour trip home, which we reached at 7:45 p.m. 

The train passes the town of Celerina and we see, once again, the San Gian church where the wedding took place!

A bell-tower in Celerina (a town we still have to visit one day). 

The wide plain which we passed through by bus between Zuoz and Bever earlier in the day!

The houses of Zuoz, where we got off the train in the morning coming from down the valley. 

Still some very nice late afternoon lighting on the larch-covered hills. 

By the time we reach Zernez (at about 4:30 p.m.), where the train soon enters the Vereina Tunnel heading north, the whole valley, except the highest peaks, are in shadow. 

The town of Zernez lies at the junction of the valley with a road that goes over the Ofen Pass to the east and crosses the border into South Tirol (Italy). 

Location of St.Moritz within Switzerland.