Kemmeriboden to Schangnau along the "Trans Swiss Trail"

Sunday September 7, 2025 -- After the very long hike we did the day before (those photos are HERE), we once again preferred a shorter and easier walk, without having to travel too far from home.

We decided on a trip to Kemmeriboden Bad at the foot of the Hohgant Mountain (in fact, very near to where we had been when we walked along the Niederhorn crest just four days earlier.... those photos HERE). We have been here often, but there was a short stretch of trail along the Themed Trail no.2: "Trans Swiss Trail" from there to Schangnau in the Bumbach Valley, which we had not yet walked, and since I like "tying together" sections of named trails, this is what we undertook this day.

Once again we neglected to search the Internet for possible events in the area, and we landed right in the midst of masses of people attending a "Schwingfest" competition there (a type of wrestling that is one of Switzerland's favourite spectator sports--in fact, the national championships which take place every three years had just taken place in Glarus), and we very much worried that we wouldn't be able to access the trail there.

But in the end, they let us pass, and for most of the 9-km walk we followed the Emme River (which has its source near here on the north flank of Mt. Augstmatthorn) or passed through various lovely farms on a relatively easy walk to Schangnau. It was a warm day but we had some shady forested sections. We did not stop for dessert at the end of our hike in the Löwen Gasthaus (where we had some great Meringue Desserts in winter when we were here last, HERE is a photo) as we wanted to avoid the potential traffic expected by the time the event finished at 4 p.m.! But even at 2:50 p.m. when we boarded the bus, there was standing room only and the bus could not even stop for more passengers along the way. We really need to check that Internet before we go!

Leaving home just after 9 a.m., it takes two hours to travel to Kemmeriboden in the Bumbach Valley. This here is the section between Schangnau and Kemmeriboden just north of the Hohgant Massif. This is the stretch we will be walking back on. The bus had suddenly gotten full, and we found out from the other passengers that there was an event going on. 

Long before reaching Kemmeribodenbad (where we have been many times before), we had seen the hundreds of cars parked all along the road and in the meadows. We were overwhelmed at the masses of people gathered here for some wrestling competitions. There was a large tent with tables and food, and people collecting entrance fees. They let us pass to get on the hiking trail.  

A final look behind us at the event arena! We were so glad to get away from this quickly. It's now 11:20, and we are starting off on our walk along the Emme River. 

A lovely day, not too hot, and lots of sunshine for a walk along the Emme River down the Bumbach Valley. 

We have done several sections of Trail no.2: "Trans Swiss Trail", but this piece was missing. It was an easy walk of 9 km along the river, through forests, and past several attractive Emmental-Style farms. We started at 11:20, and caught the 14:54 bus in Schangnau, for the less than two-hour trip home. 

A look back in the direction of Kemmeribodenbad. 

A very pleasant landscape of rolling hills and an easy walk. 

The first farm we came to was called Schwand. There was a wooden covered bridge over the river here (which we did not need to cross) and they had a little farm shop which we looked into, but didn't buy anything. 

Beautiful house at Schwand. In the background is the southernmost peak of the Schrattenflue Massif. The peak is called Schibegütsch. 

Long stretches through meadows

It is supposed to rain again on Monday or Tuesday, so the farmers have to make sure to cut and dry the hay!

Here's the next farm: Schwandweid. Even though we are not officially in the Emmental region, this is the same style of houses as we find in the Emmental. 

To our left and direction south is the other major massif here: Hohgant. 

We are following National Trail no.2: "Trans Swiss Trail". At this point we have come 45 minutes from the bus stop at Kemmeribodenbad (the final bus station at the back of the Bumbach Valley) and still have 1 hour and 40 minutes to go to get to Schangnau. 

We then entered a very lovely forested section, green and peaceful. 

Peaceful section through the forest. 

Interesting vegetation on the forest floor. 

Nice and cool here. 

Another bridge that we don't need to cross, but I like the views of the rivers from the bridges!

That's the bridge we didn't cross! From here we reach a camp-ground, and we are looking for a nice bench to have our lunch, as it is 12:45. There was a perfect bench just ahead of us, but three ladies were sitting on it! (But we then found a stack of planks next to a building in the shade, and rested there for a while). 

The "Camp-Ground" consisted of lots of tiny homes! I could live here!

Back at the river again. 

Still some colour along the riverbank!

Up ahead we see another covered wooden bridge over the Emme River. But that huge rock on the riverbank, how did that get there? And it seems to be a totally different kind of rock than what you might expect to find here. 

A short way along the trail through the forest we came across yet ANOTHER wooden covered bridge! This was over a side stream, and we DID have to cross this one. 

This is the bridge we saw from further up-river. We won't have to cross it, but we do want a closer look, obviously. 

This bridge is much larger and higher than anticipated! I would have liked a photo of me standing on the bridge, but I would have been hidden by the high walls!

Inside the bridge was a bench I managed to stand on to see over the wall, for this photo of the Emme River, upstream. 

The next farm is called "Hintere Buchhütte"

This farm also had a self-serve shop, a very pretty little building. They had advertised ice cream, so of course Urs had to have a look!

Urs is buying his beloved ice cream and supporting local small farming operations.

Just as we were leaving the little shop, the owners came home from a family bike ride!

This is the view that the family here have from their farmhouse... there was a very convenient bench right in front of the house with this view!

Another look behind us. A very pretty landscape to walk along 

Next farm: "Vordere Buchhütte"

What a cute little "play farm" all made of wood, including the animals!

View eastward past the "Vordere Buchhütte" farmhouse to the Schrattenflue Massif and Schiebegütsch peak. 

Always those curious cows!

I recognized this place! We descended here on a different hike we did in October 2020. From here on in to the bus stop in Schangnau, we are walking along the same trail. 

Across the river on the north side we can already see the Löwen Gasthaus where we catch the bus nearby. 

Final stretch down to the river where we crossed another wooden covered bridge. 

Another beautiful old house. 

The final wooden covered bridge we crossed to get into the village of Schangnau. 

Another beautiful farmhouse on the way up to the main road. 

This house is across the street from the Löwen Gasthaus

Lots of beautiful wood details and carvings. 

The view south as we reach the main road across from the Löwen Gasthaus. All the cars here are from people who had gone to the festival, having caught the bus here (that's why the bus was so full when we traveled through here earlier in the day). 

We got back to the Löwen Gasthaus in Schangnau at just after 2:30 p.m. (about 15 minutes early for the bus). We might have skipped a bus and stopped here for their fabulous Meringue Dessert, but were worried about full buses later in the day. 

But were we ever shocked when the bus pulled up with no room for extra people! Luckily for us, quite a few people got out here to get their cars in the parking lot we had seen. Fortunately enough people got off so we could squeeze in, but it was tough. A reminder to check for local events when we go to a certain area!

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

All the hikes we have done in the region around the Hohgant and Schrattenflue "mountains".