October 31, 2020

Hiking through the Emmental, from Innereriz to Schangnau

Saturday October 31 -- A week ago we walked along the Glaubenberg High Moors just East of the Schrattenfluh Massif, and this week we walked just slightly to the West of it, in the Emmental Region. 

We decided to start near Innereriz, in a small side-valley near Thun, which forms the border between the Bernese Alps and the Emmental region. From there we walked a small crest and descended northwards toward Schangnau, which is just across the Emme River, from which the Emmental gets its name. 

This again was a lovely mild day with a good view of both the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau Trio whose peaks became more visible the higher we climbed, as well as the lovely Hohgant and Schrattenfluh massifs.

As it turns out, we missed the bus in Schangnau by just two minutes, but since there was still enough sunshine, we continued northwards across the pasture lands until we were able to catch the next bus, which was just at the border between the Emmental (Canton Bern) and Entlebuch (Canton Luzern) regions.

The only not-so-great part of this excursion: From the train station at Thun to the last stop along the line, the bus was jam-packed full, so much so that the driver could barely close the doors each time someone got in. We were worried we'd be having to walk with the crowd, but we got out before the end of the line, the only ones! The rest continued on for what we realized was probably to hike the passage into the Justiz Valley to the South, back to Lake Thun. So for us, another successful choice with practically no one else along the trail....

A 45-minute bus ride from Thun to Innereriz in a jam-packed full bus. But some nice views out the window over the city of Thun

We were worried that we had to walk with dozens of other people, but we were the only ones who got out here (three stops before the end) to walk over the hill to the North. We realized the others were either climbing to the top of Hohgant (ahead) or into the Justiz Valley to the South. 

First of many beautiful Emmental farmhouses which we passed along the way. Our trail took us up the hill behind this house.

What I can't stand but which seems to be my lot for almost every hike is the sound of the leaf blower!!! We had to endure this for about 20 minutes.

Heading up the hill behind this lovely farm-house

The next farm we got to (called Babschwand) had this cute little cottage on the property. An engraving under the roof extension reads "1783". These cottages were usually built for elderly farmers whose children took over the farm and main house.

Continuing up the hill from the Babschwand Farm

A view westward down the Eriz Valley (not sure it's really called that) which we came up with the bus from Thun.

First glimpse of the Schrattenfluh massif. The crags far right are the Giswiler Stock at the base of which is the Glaubenbielen Pass, where we walked to the week before (on the other side of the Schrattenfluh)

To the Southeast is the other prominent massif here: Hohgant

After ascending 370m to the next farm called Grosshonegg, this is the panorama view we had of the Hohgant and Schrattenfluh massifs to the East and SE.

And to the South, peeking over the hills that separate us from Lake Thun, are the always magnificent trio of Bernese Alps: Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau

As we walked westward, we even glimpsed Mt. Finsteraarhorn (on the left), which is actually the highest peak of the Bernese Alps (4274 m or 14,022 ft).

And with a good zoom view, between the peaks of Mt. Mönch and Jungfrau is the famous observatory at Jungfrau Joch, a popular tourist destination nicknamed "Top of Europe". 

Interesting clouds

Another farmhouse called Althonegg. From here we scrambled uphill to the ridge for our first look into the Entlebuch area on the North side.

First glimpse to the North to the village of Schangnau below (our planned destination). Most of the pasture we see here is still part of the Emmental (Canton Bern), but the next larger town to the North (Marbach) is alread in the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern.

Heading down to the valley bottom where the Emme River flows. This "valley" is called Bumbach.

Heading down to the Emme River

A look South to the passage into the Justiz Valley. We assume most of the people on our bus hiked up through there.

Many beautiful Fly Agarics to be admired in the forests here

At the top of that hill, which you can access by cable car, is the vacation village of Marbachegg, a popular winter destination for local families, especially for skiing. Our destination is in the valley to the left.

Afternoon light

After descending through the forest, we get to the cross-roads on Trans-Swiss Trail Route no.2: We could go East to Kemmeribodenbad, or West to Schangnau as planned. We knew we weren't going to make it to the next bus anyway.

We decided to continue to Schangnau. This here is the crossing of the Emme River

Crossing the Emme River

Arriving in Schangnau

Restaurant Löwen in Schangnau. We got here just as the bus was pulling away. 

Since it was only just after 3 p.m. and there looked to still be lots of sunshine, we decided to walk to Wald (45 minutes) which would just be in time for the next bus

The chapel in Schangnau

Lots of farms in this wide open pasture land

A look back toward Hohgant

Comfortable path on the way to the village of Wald where we are going to catch the next bus.

Old barn

Another pretty Emmental house across the road from the bus stop in Wald.

From the bus window on our way North to the train station in Escholzmatt:  This is the Schrattenfluh Massif in lovely late afternoon sunlight.

Our originally-planned 3hrs and 30 minutes' hike (from just before Innereriz to Schangnau) turned into over four hours of walking because we just kept on walking after missing the bus by two minutes!

Although we had never been to Innereriz before, we have done several hikes around Marbach and Schangnau. Now we need to connect the trail to Kemmeriboden Bad! (on the left below the Schrattenfluh).




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