Views of Lake Zurich from Atzmännig to Schmerikon along St.James Trail

Friday September 20, 2024 -- A beautiful day in the forecast, so I went for another walk on my own, not far from home in the rolling hills east of Lake Zurich. I didn't want to do anything strenuous, but wanted to start up high enough for a view of the Alps if the day was clear, and walk down toward the lake.

I was able to keep to my plan of starting on the summit of Mt.Atzmännig even though most of the Central Plateau around Zurich, Zug and Luzern were covered in fog. Here near the Toggenburg region, the sun was shining and the air was pretty clear for a view of the mountains. We'd only been to the Atzmännig once before for a popular loop hike (starting with a chair lift ride, of course), on a Sunday unfortunately. This is a good hiking destination for the city folk in Zurich, as it offers playgrounds and a bob run, so great for a family outing on a Sunday. And at that time we were basically walking single file, so not a favourite hike of ours. (Those photos are HERE).

But on a Thursday and not during school holidays, there were very few people there this day. I was quite alone for my three-hour downhill hike to Schmerikon at the very east end of the Obersee part of Lake Zurich. Along the way, the trail joins the popular National Trail no.4: "Via Jakobi" (St.James Trail, i.e. the section of the Camino de Santiago which passes through Switzerland), so there were also several chapels and churches to inspect along the way, two of which were quite stunningly beautiful Baroque buildings with LOTS of ceiling art, almost as impressive as the Sistine chapel!

The only negative of this day, I would say, is that I had dressed too warmly (being as the previous days were quite cold) and forgot to take a T-shirt along, and by the time I got to lake level (and the terrain there was pretty flat), I was quite heated up for the day!

Near Lake Zurich and at the back of a valley called Goldinger Tal is the base station of the Atzmännig chair lift. There are all kinds of activities for kids here, so it makes it a popular place for a family outing on weekends. I was on the chair lift by 10:30

It is amazing how empty the parking lot is.... compared to how full all three parking lots were on that Sunday in October 2019! Here is a photo of the parking lot that day, from my blog entry: HERE

Heading up on the chair lift, it was a long (about 15 minutes) and peaceful ride. On the left you can see the Bobsled Run. 

From the top of the Atzmännig you can see a large part of Lake Zürich, and a good view of the snow-covered Bernese Alps in the far back. 

A zoomed view as far as the Bernese Alps. In the very center you see two darker peaks, those are the Gross and Klein Mythen. 

Another close-up view, this time past Lake Zurich to Mounts Rigi and Pilatus in Central Switzerland. 

A look back at the chair lift and the hills at the back of the Goldinger Valley. This is all in Canton St.Gallen, and not Canton Zurich. 

Starting at the summit of the mountain called Atzmännig at 10:50, I walked along the "Züri Oberland Weg no.69" and then joined the "Via Jakobi" (St.James Trail, no.4). It was a 13-kilometer walk, with a descent of 960 meters, which is quite a lot! I got on the train in Schmerikon at 15:50 and was home in one hour and 20 minutes!

The view I had as I started walking down along the crest of the hill. 

To the East are the peaks of the Churfirsten Mountains, where we had done a great hike just 13 days early. Because of a much-too-early snowfall, the peaks are now covered in snow. 

Straight to the south is the Linth Valley, where we were just two days earlier. 

A very nice trail. The air was quite warm, about 23 degrees C.

A cute kestrel sitting on the power line. 

Another look south past the Linth Plain into the Linth Valley. The village below is called Walde.

I am always amused when the trees eat the signs!

The Goldinger Valley and a view across Lake Zurich. My trail heads to the left from here. 

Always walking along a crest

Being observed

A look back along the crest that I have been descending

I came across this little forest hut, a good place to eat my sandwich, as it is now shortly before noon. The engraved wood reads: "The water here saves men and animal"

The fall crocuses are blooming everywhere now, a sure sign that the summer is over. 

Just one single photo of me! Heading down now into the wider and flatter region. The small dark hill on the far shore of the lake is called Buechberg, and we did a hike across that hill in October 2020 (those photos HERE)

Nice houses along the way

The kites are always fascinating to watch

At 12:40 I reached Rüeterswil, where I joined the Via Jakobi Trail. This is the part of the Camino de Santiago through Switzerland, and therefore passes by as many historical churches and chapels as possible. There are also people who offer reasonably-priced accommodation for the pilgrims who walk the trail. 

The chapel at Rüeterswil

The chapel was not locked, so I went in to have a look. If the stairs to the organ are not roped off, I usually head up to the balcony to take a photo from above. 

Very pretty balcony to the organ. The sign at the back of the chapel indicates that it was consecrated in 1877. 

In the very center of this village is a very nice building, a restaurant. 

A look back a the church in Rüeterswil, as I continue on. 

Another interesting house

Farming region near Lake Zurich

This is an unusual covered wooden bridge with the large doors. At first I thought it was a barn. 

The cutest little curious goats wanted to see what I was up to, and walked along the fence with me!

I am always  happy when I can follow small paths like this!

Just before St. Gallenkappel, I took a break on this bench to enjoy the view

The view from my bench to the Glarus Alps, in particular the distinctive peak of Mt. Mürtschenstock on the left, which is on the south side of Lake Walensee.

Interesting tower of the church in St. Gallenkappel

Another detour to have a look into this church. This is the parish church of St.Laurentius and St.Gallus. It was built about 1754. 

I was in awe at the magnificence of this church, in particular the fabulous artwork on the ceiling and the three grandiose altars. I spent a lot of time walking around in here... also to cool off a bit!

And just as pretty, the balcony with the organ (of course I went up the stairs onto the balcony). 

Isn't this magnificent? All this artwork was done by various artists in 1755. 

The view of the church interior from the balcony

What a lovely organ. 

Other details from the interior of the church. The painting in the dome above the altar is of the "Last Supper". 

A look back at the church as I continue on my walk. The small building on the lift is an ossuary, but it was locked so I could not see inside. 

Another look behind me. 

Another view of Mt. Mürtschenstock as I pass through the community of Gerendingen

From here I had to walk down into the ravine, under the highway bridge and back up the other side, where there was another notable chapel along the St.James Trail. First though, a detour to a wooden covered bridge on the right. 

This wooden covered bridge over the Aabach River was built in 1830

The little chapel in Neuhaus dates from 1698, but is actually a "new build" on the site of a chapel from the Middle Ages. According to information I found inside the chapel, there are two small bells in the bell tower with the dates 1599 on them. 

Across from the Neuhaus chapel is information about the St.James Trail (Jakobsweg or Via Jakobi). From here the main trail goes westward to Rapperswil, but there is an alternative to Schmerikon (where I am headed) and around the Buechberg to Einsiedeln. There are five sites of interest along the way, marked on this map. A walk I wouldn't mind doing some time as well. 

Information about the sites along the St.James Trail

Now a long and less interesting stretch southward toward the lake. 

First view of the east end of the Obersee part of Lake Zurich. The Linth River / Canal enters Lake Zurich here. This is of particular interest to me as I also did a walk a couple of weeks earlier along the Linth Canal where it exits Lake Walensee (Pictures HERE). 

A look toward the west across Lake Zurich (Obersee)

Such a cute fountain / water trough!

Below me the town of Schmerikon, end of my hike. And Mt. Mürtschenstock in the background. 

And the final church along this section of the St.James Trail: St. Jodokus, or St.Josse. According to the Internet, this is the largest church in Switzerland dedicated to this particular Saint. (A seventh-Century Breton Noble). 

This is another magnificent Baroque interior. Originally, the building was 15th-Century Gothic, but got a Baroque renovation in the 1700's

Very ornate pulpit and side altars

Lovely Baroque Interior in St.Josse church in Schmerikon

Interesting windows and ceiling art

More details of the artwork in the St.Josse Church in Schmerikon

Down at the lakeshore now at 15:40, almost five hours after starting on my hike!

I was about 10 minutes early for my train, so I enjoyed the lakeshore for a bit. The trip home was less than 90 minutes!

And a final close-up look at Mt. Mürtschenstock

My 13-kilometer hike as seen on Google Satellite Maps, as well as the other hikes we have done in this area. 

Location of Mt. Atzmännig and Schmerikon within Switzerland

View of the weather in the region of Zug, from the Webcam at Mt. Uetliberg near Zurich. This was when I was just starting my hike in the fog-free region east of Lake Zurich. (The fog did lift a few hours later). 

When you visit the churches and chapels along the St.James Pilgrim Trail, you can collect "Pilgrim Stamps" from each church! I noticed this by accident (although in retrospect, we had collected a couple on previous hikes), and unfortunately only found the stamps in two of the churches!