Riding Farmers' Cable Cars in Canton Uri: Flüelen and Isenthal

Monday September 30, 2024 -- Day 3 of our very busy "long weekend" with our friends from California! Besides seeing a cow parade on Saturday (very rainy day) followed by a visit to the Kambly cookie factory for lots of free cookie samples, and a day riding the boat on Lake Lugano on Sunday, the additional wish for this visit was to once again ride those small farmers' cable cars, such as the one I took them on a year earlier. (Photos HERE).

We were very lucky with some fantastic and unexpected beautiful weather for our planned excursion to ride not one, but TWO of those little cable cars, both in Canton Uri. The first cable car we took was from near Flüelen at the south end and east side of Lake Uri, a steep ride to a sunny upper plateau where we enjoyed the fantastic views of the lake and the Uri Alps while sampling coffee with schnapps and desserts on the large terrace at the Oberaxen Restaurant (we were early, and the only patrons at 10:30 a.m.!)

Then we headed back down and took a bus into the Isenthal Valley directly opposite on the west side of the lake, an always memorable trip on a narrow winding road, a journey we have done often. (Until 1920 there was no road into the valley, access into the valley was on a footpath with ladders.) The ride on the second cable car was even more fun, as it was an open cargo car! At the top we had to walk to the farm which owns the cable car to pay for the transport (we had to do it in two runs, as the cabin holds maximum three people at a time), and we sat at a picnic table to enjoy the view of the lake and our tuna sandwiches, one of which was promply stolen by the apparently very hungry farm cats!

The excursion ended with a final boat ride from Arth to Zug on Lake Zug for Urs and our guests, whereas I'd had enough of riding boats from the day before, and went home directly to prepare some dinner. 

Heading by train south along Lake Uri, we can see the zigzag road on the west side of the lake up into the Isenthal Valley, which is where we are heading later to the second of the two farmers' cable cars we rode this day. 

From Flüelen train station we switch to a bus for the short ride to the Oberaxen cable car station. Up on the plateau is the Oberaxen farm and restaurant, summit station of the cable car. This is the east side of the lake, and at 10 a.m. the town of Flüelen is still in deep shadow, but what lovely sunshine up on the plateau! (It took us only an hour to get here).

This is the Oberaxen cable car. It is privately owned mostly for transport of goods to the people who live on the plateau, but certified for public use. Four people can ride in the back section. It is a popular mode of transport, and we timed it well that we were the only people needing to ride it at this time. You have to use the phone on the wall to call up to the restaurant to tell them you want to ride up. Then you get into the cabin and wait for it to start operation! (The restaurant owner has to go down to the summit station to start the motor). 

The other cable car passing us on its way down. (It is about an 8-minute ride). 

View down to the south end of Lake Uri and the Reuss Delta, where one of Switzerland's major rivers flows into Lake Lucerne, to eventually empty into the Rhine River in the north. 

Good time with friends!

Before heading to the restaurant, we walked a bit over the rise to look at the north part of Lake Uri (Urnersee). On the left is Seelisberg, and near the north end is a meadow called the Rütli Meadow, where representatives of the original three Cantons formed the Swiss Confederacy in 1291. And at the very back is the Rigi Massif. 

Fantastic view over the Uri Alps. The main mountain in the back is called Mount Gitschen. 

And directly to the west we can now look into the Isenthal Valley where we are heading later. The zigzag road into the valley was built in 1920, and before that, the people farming there had to walk up and down steep mountain trails. Right now there is still shadow there, but later it should be sunny.  

Enjoying coffee and pastries as the only guests at the moment at the Oberaxen Restaurant.  Later, more people will be coming up here for lunch, so our timing for this was perfect. 

Urs of course has his "traditional" ice cream sundae....

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The small cable-car arrives at the summit station, and we took the next ride down.

Heading back down again, we can see that there is sunshine now in the Isenthal Valley for the second part of our trip! 

View down to the railway line from our cable car! Once we got to the bottom, we took a bus to the train station in Altdorf, changed to the bus that heads into the Isenthal Valley. Altogether approximately a one-hour trip to our next cable car line. 

Now the bus runs north along the west side of Lake Uri, and we get a view of the Oberaxen Alp where we just spent a couple of very nice hours in the sunshine there! (It is now 12:30)

The road up into the Isenthal Valley is another of Switzerland's engineering marvels, having been blasted into the cliff face. The bus barely makes it under the overhang. Cars going in the opposite direction of the bus have strict times where they cannot be on the road. Bicycles on the other hand are a pain, as they ride in the middle of the road and the bus cannot pass them.

View to the Reuss Delta at the south end of Lake Uri, and all up the Reuss Valley, as the bus zigzags up into the Isenthal Valley. 

As the bus passes through the village of Isenthal (our stop is the second past the village), we get a view up the side valley called Chlital, which we have been into twice. (Unfortunately there is no bus service there. The last time we were here, also to ride such a cable car, was almost exactly a year earlier, when we got a ride from a local person. No snow at that time! Those photos are HERE). 

Shortly before 1 p.m. we arrive at the second cable car, a short walk from the main road where we got off the bus. As this little car can only transfer maximum three people at a time, we have to make two trips. Urs has already made the arrangements with the farmer up top, to operate the cable car twice. He and Carrie go first, as Jeff and I take photos!

There the little cabins cross on the way up to the top station

Once the first run gets to the top, it's our turn now! (We had to phone Urs on our cell phones to let him know we were ready, then he called the farmer lady, who operates the cable-way remotely). 

A look down over the top of the village of Isenthal (same name as the valley). Later, we want to walk from the cable-car station to the village to look at the cemetery, and catch the bus from there. 

A closer look at the village of Isenthal from our ride up in the little cable car. 

As most of these farms are on steep hillsides, a lot of them have their own little private cargo cable-cars, like the one on the right. They are not all approved for carrying people, unfortunately. 

Here I am in the farmer's cable car! This is so much fun!

A look up the Isenthal Valley as we continue on our trip up the mountain! We have done very, very many hikes in this region. 

Carrie and Urs wait for us at the top station, and take some nice photos! There are mailboxes attached to the back of the little car, so that the postman doesn't have to go up the mountain to deliver the mail!

There are a couple of farmhouses up here and several barns. The farms are called Ober- and Unterfurggelen. (Upper and Lower Furggelen). We have to walk five minutes to the farm that owns the cable car, to pay for our rides! (This photo is NOT the farm)

What a wonderful place to live! This view is still of Lake Uri. At the back is a peak called Fronalpstock, with a popular crest trail which is advertised on Instagram by all influencers claiming it is the best hike in Switzerland. (In June 2019 we were here the first time, and did a hike to a second cable car on the lake side of the hill on the right, and then walked down to Bauen on the lake. Those photos are HERE). 

Between the farmhouse and their barn, the family has set up a very unique overnight-experience called the Bubble Suite (very expensive to overnight here!) We asked permission to have our lunch at the picnic table here, which was OK, as there were guests coming later in the afternoon. It was 1:40 p.m. already, and we spent about 30 minutes up here. 

Just seconds after we sat down and opened our tuna-sandwiches, three farm cats appeared. 

At first the cats were cute, until one of them stole Carrie's sandwich right out of her grip and took off with the sandwich with a demonic look in its eyes. A fight for the sandwich between the three cats then ensued. Farm cats are left to their own devices to find food!

Heading back to the cable-car station at shortly after 2 p.m., Carrie did a detour to get a better look into the back of the Isenthal Valley. 

Ready to head back down the mountain!

Down below is the valley station of the cable-way, and the other cabin is making its way up toward us. 

We might still have some sunshine in the village of Isenthal when we walk there. 

Watching the next run with Urs and Jeff, as the cabins cross again halfway. 

Jeff and Urs nearing the bottom now. 

Waiting for the boys...

A short walk along the hillside on a soft grassy trail toward the main road and then the church, to have a look at the lovely carved wooden crosses in the cemetery, something very special and specific to this community. 

Jeff and Carrie, finally on a "hike" with us! It's about 14:45 now, and the bus comes at about 15:10, so we have about 15 minutes to look at the village. 

We think this flock of sheep escaped the nearby barn, as there were no fences in this field where they are grazing. 

And such a tiny little one

The village of Isenthal even features a hotel!

Another look up into the Chlital (= "Small Valley") but this time with sunshine. 

The graveyard in Isenthal is special, because all the grave markers are made of hand-carved wood, and the pictures that are featured reflect something about the person's life, like a career or a hobby. The little chapel next to the larger church (no photos) is where a person's body (or ashes) is displayed before burial so that friends and family can bid a final good-bye. 

For example, one can recognize the carving of a carpenter, and one of a farmstead. 

In front of the church, looking up the valley. 

It's 15:10 and our bus is arriving from up the valley. Made it back to the bus stop just in time!

Ready to board the Isenthal Bus. We were the only passengers, and it was like a privately-booked tour! The bus driver gave us lots of interesting information about the valley and the road into the valley. 

Another look to the south end of the lake as we head back out of the valley. 

Across the lake again you can see Oberaxen Alp, and the Axen road which is carved into the mountainside. (The road is currently closed to traffic as they are doing controlled explosions to bring down loose rock. This might be the reason why there were so few people around here on this beautiful day, with better weather than expected). 

Mount Bristen

Back through the tunnel and almost at lake level now. 

On the way back to the train station at Altdorf, we pass the St.Lazarus Abbey in Seedorf. There are 11 Benedictine sisters who live here and run the abbey and the grounds. It was a men's monastery in Medieval times (original building was from 1197) but has been run as a Benedictine Abbey for about 450 years now. 

As there had not been enough action for the day, Urs took our guests on a final boat ride on Lake Zug, from Arth back to Zug. I did not join them on this excursion, but went straight home with the train. 

Enjoying a final boat ride on Lake Zug. 

Area of Flüelen and Isenthal within Switzerland.