July 23, 2023

Hike to the Sewen Hostel in the Meien Valley

Sunday July 23, 2023 -- A very nice day with no low clouds over the mountains for a change, so we did one of our long-planned mountain hikes in Canton Uri, in one of the many side valleys of the Reuss Valley. 

This time we went into the Meien Valley again (having been there several times already), this time hiking over 540 meters (90 minutes) straight uphill to the Swiss Alpine Club Sewen Hostel, then even higher up along the trail around the inside of the fabulous mountain cauldron which features the small lake called Sewensee, and from there descended back down to the Susten Pass Road where we had to catch the only bus leaving the valley on this side at 2:45 p.m.

On the Susten Pass road between the Reuss Valley in the West and the Hasli Valley in the East, there are only two buses per day in each direction over the pass. The way the buses are scheduled means we had only 5 hours to do the challenging 4-hour hike we had planned. Plus we wanted time to enjoy the views! So the hike, as fantastic as the landscape was, ended up rushed, especially as the downhill trail, which we thought would be a pleasant panorama high trail, was totally destroyed by hundreds of cow feet and therefore took much longer to navigate than planned.

As usual, we made it to the bus stop with just minutes to spare. The one negative aspect was that the bus was 6 minutes late with standing room only (many people having taken the scenic drive over the pass from the other side), and we barely made it to the train station on time for the connection home.... (On the positive side, it only took 2 hours and 20 minutes to the start of our hike, and only two hours to get back home!)

Heading up the Meien Valley on the bus, we pass the bus stop where we caught the bus back out of the valley five hours or so later. It's actually amazing to think that we can get here in 2 hours and 20 minutes from our apartment. 

There are two trails to the Sewen Hostel. Many people park here and do the loop (one up, the other down). Usually, it's the shorter one that is done on the way up, as it is a steady and steep ascent. Suggested time is 1 hr. 35 minutes. We virtually "raced" up and made it in 1 hour and 20 minutes! (We started here at 9:35). 

This side valley called Chlialp looked so inviting, I wanted to go in there, but the trail doesn't go far. 

Strictly speaking, this would be a 4-hour hike. But because the trail via Bergalp was so destroyed by the cows, we had longer. (We fortunately saved some time on the ascent to the Sewenhütte, but we barely even had a lunch break). 

Even though we had to ascend over 500 meters, we had a lot of shade and good narrow trails, so it wasn't boring. 

The loop trail is actually advertised for families, which is convenient as there is parking off the main road, so they can return by the other trail. We were impressed at how the kids make this same climb. 

In the far back is the Susten Pass Road near the Susten Pass

The Susten Pass Road winding up to the Pass. Our most recent visit to the Meien Valley was in August of 2022 when we started at the Pass and walked down the Meien Valley in this direction. (Those photos are HERE)

Here's another family we passed, taking a break. They followed soon after us and kept the same pace! Kudos to all those kid hikers!

Last stretch before we reached the hostel

Panorama view just before getting to the hostel

The Sewen Hostel. We got here at 10:55, just 1 hour 20 minutes after starting at the bus stop. This hostel was built in 1974 at this spot, after the original one -- built only four years earlier -- was destroyed by a rock slide (built inside the cauldron, we passed the ruins later). 

Funny! On the opposite side of the valley are several glaciers

These guys "holding" the bench are also funny!

A look down the valley from the hostel terrace and we can see the farm building we are going to pass just before the main descent to the valley bottom. From here it looks like a nice high trail to get there! (But it was all messed up from the cows). 

It was Urs' wish to stop here for a coffee break, pastries you can buy at the hostel kitchen. 

I quite enjoyed the various wooden sculptures they had up here. Makes it fun for the kids as well. 

Fantastic backdrop of the Uri Alps with their glaciers

Here's where the trail continues into the "cauldron"

The hostel looks prettier from this side. The glaciers are called Rütifirn. 

Making our way along the trail after a 20-minute stop at the hostel

Heading into the cauldron. Down below is the little lake called Sewensee. A loop tour around the inside of the cauldron and back to the hostel takes 1 hour and 45 minutes. 

Up ahead and where we are going to pass by are the ruins of the original hostel built in 1970, but swept away by a rock slide only three years later. At the time it was deemed a "safe spot"

The little Sewen Lake. Great fun for the kids to swim in. There was even a little boat there. We passed along the flat section on the other side of the lake on our way down.  

A look down at Sewenseeli and across the Meien Valley as we continue on our uphill climb. 

This is all that is left of the original hostel built here in 1970 but destroyed by a rock slide three years later. At the time this was deemed a safe spot!

Self-timed photo on the ruins of the original Sewenhütte

A look at the trail we are going to continue on. 

From here you can cross on an alpine trail (blue/white) into the next valley over. Not something we want to try. In any case, I don't think I would build something here!

You can just make out the Sewen Hostel in the very center of the photo, and the trail we followed below those craggy peaks. 

Panorama view on our way back down to lake level

I love these flowers, they look like shaggy heads and remind me of the trees in the Lorax story by Dr. Seuss. 

Heading back down to lake level, and it's only here we really noticed that there is a waterfall!

A lovely plain to cross before heading down into the valley. The lake is to my right. 

It was up there that we were, on that high plateau above the waterfall. 

Now it's 12:40, and the sign says it should take about 1-3/4 hours to get down to the road. That would mean we would have only about 20 minutes extra.

These are the "hundreds" of cows which ruined the rest of the trail down to that farmhouse we previously saw, something we were just about to discover. 

This one wasn't sure what to do. I told her to stay up there, so we could pass below her on the trail!

At this point the trail wasn't too bad.

But then it got all mucked up from the cows going up to the alpine pastures!

A lovely view up the Meien Valley. But look at that trail! Here we are just at the farmhouse, it's now 13:40, and we have just over an hour to get down to the road (if we miss that bus, it would mean a four-hour trip back over the pass, instead of just two hours in this direction). According to the map, it should take 50 minutes to get to the road. 

My favourite photo

A lovely butterfly. This also seems to be oregano, just like that other time I did a hike on my own and saw so many butterflies!

Now for the rest of the downhill section we finally have a decent mountain trail!

Not far now!

The trail down to the road was nicely cleared, and it was actually a very good descent. 

The first fireweed of the season for us. 

Finally down at the road. We are taking a detour to a small roadside shop where had been before, and where we wanted to buy some cheese.

Buying some Meientaler Cheese for Urs' uncle who used to regularly make trips to this valley for the cheese. (His sister used to run the Sewen Hostel, we found out from him the next day when we brought him the cheese). 

This little hamlet is called Aderbogen, where we got the cheese, and where we are catching the bus. 

A look up the mountain to the trail we followed right after our break at the hostel. We came down from there!

And even though we had gotten to the shop at 14:36, just eight minute before the scheduled arrival of the bus, it was late and didn't come till 14:50! So we hadn't needed to hurry at all!

What our trail looks like on Google Satellite Maps

All the hikes we have done in the Meien Valley on the east side of the Susten Pass (four hikes), and one hike down the west side (Hasli Valley). The main valley on the right is the Reuss Valley. 

Where the Meien Valley is located in Switzerland. 

Any trip home along the Reuss Valley from the Alps near Göschenen includes a photo of the village of Wassen!


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