Grindelwald Eiger Express - Jungfraujoch - Mönchsjochhütte and Eiger North Trail

Friday July 7, 2023 -- There was good weather forecast again for the Bernese Oberland Region for both Friday and Saturday, and because this is a bit far for us for day trips, we decided to spend the night in the region, in a side valley (Saxeten Valley) near the world-popular city of Interlaken. (The reason for this choice is that we wanted to start early on Saturday morning for a hike over the pass in the back of that valley).

We don't go to Grindelwald a lot, because this is one of the very popular areas for tourists from all over the world, especially for Asians. In particular they come to see the famous trio of mountains Eiger/Mönch/Jungfrau, and to ride to the highest railway station in Europe at Jungfraujoch, nicknamed "Top of Europe", with a spectacular observatory called the Sphinx, from whose platform you can look down at the largest glacier in the Alps: The Aletsch Glacier. Since the completion of the overwhelming Eiger Express gondola cable-car and the newer and larger train station below the Eiger Glacier, they can expect up to 5000 people per day at the Jungfraujoch!

We had once found out about a Swiss Alpine Hostel up there above the glacier, the highest serviced hostel in Switzerland, which you can access on foot in an hour over a wide road across the glacier, which they prepare every morning. The hike there and back is less than two hours, so not worth the long trip there, but there was a second trail nearby, the "Eiger Trail" along the north face of Mount Eiger, also only two hours and which we have also been wanting to do for a while, so we combined both.

(We didn't go up to the viewing platform this day, as we had been up here once before in October of 2014).

We had a beautiful day and both excursions went well, even with the large amount of people walking on both trails. But as pretty as it was, I found them slightly monotonous, and was looking forward to our hotel for the night and an early start on a real mountain hike the next day, one with no tourists at all.

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PART I:  Hike to the Swiss Alpine Club Hostel Mönchsjochhütte, the highest serviced hostel in Switzerland at 3656 meters (12,000 ft) above sea level. It took us one hour to walk there, and 35 minutes back. 

View of the Eiger North Face as our train arrives in Grindelwald. We had to leave early (6 a.m.) to make the total 4-1/2 hour trip to Jungfraujoch, about 3-1/4 hours just to Grindelwald. On our second hike we walked along the base of that mountain (where the green meets the rock face). 

From Grindelwald it was a quick transfer to the new Eiger Express gondola cable-way for the 15-minute ride to Eigergletscher Station. Each gondola holds 26 people, but it travels so quickly that only about 12 of us got on at once. (It can transport 2200 people per hour!)

The Super-cable-way Eiger Express was completed in December 2020 and shortens the trip to Jungfraujoch by 47 minutes! It covers a distance of 6.5 kilometers

Arriving at the summit terminal of the Eiger Express cable-way at 10 a.m. We now transfer to a modern train which runs every 30 minutes to Jungfraujoch (another 25-minute ride), THROUGH THE MOUNTAIN to the highest railway station in Europe. 

Out the window at the Eigergletscher station, we get a very nice view of Mount Jungfrau. Jungfraujoch is the "saddle" on the left. 

The first 10 minutes after arrival at the "highest train station in Europe" were spent navigating the masses of people going through the narrow tunnel to the exits and the access to the platform. This is approximately the view (of the Aletsch Glacier) from the platform, but through a window lower down. 

The first 7-10 minutes are spent in the tunnel below the observatory battling the crowds. Then it takes about 45 minutes to walk to the hostel, which is in itself a spectacular construction. We got off the train at 10:45, and got to the hostel at 11:45. Originally we were going to stay for something to drink, but the terrace was tiny, and we decided to take the 12:47 train back down. We made it just as they were about to leave. It gave us more time for our second hike.  

The snow-covered peak in the back might be the Aletschhorn (4194m), which is south of another feeder glacier called Grosser Aletschfirn. 

All the people, like lots of ants, exiting the tunnel for a walk on the glacier (it is called the Jungfraufirn here). Most people walked about half-way to the hostel. Behind me on the summit of that rock is the Sphinx Observatory. 

A bit of a closer look at the Sphinx Observatory and the viewing platform

Down below is the Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps. The glacier we are walking on is called the Jungfraufirn, and it meets two other feeder glaciers at the deepest spot called Konkordia Platz (900 meters deep!!)

Rifts in the glacier ice

Time to put on sunscreen! Directly in the middle is Mt.Jungfrau. The next peak to the left is called Rottalhorn.

We were dressed for cold weather, but with the sun shining, and a constant uphill walk, it did get warm!

Final stretch to the Mönchsjochhütte. Not too many people walked all this way, and not all of them went up to the building. By the way, the trail is along the south side of Mount Mönch, and here where the hostel is located is a saddle crossing to the next glacier. The saddle is called Mönchsjoch (like Jungfraujoch, Joch = Saddle) and thus the name of the hostel: Mönchsjochhütte.

This Swiss Alpine Hostel apparently has accommodation for 120 people! There is a large lovely dining hall. They get all their water by melting glacier snow! The terrace is unfortunately a bit small. There was only space for about 10 people, and would you know it, two of them were smoking when we got up there. 

Making our way up to the hostel

A quick photo on the small terrace. It was very narrow and crowded, so we didn't stay. 

Looking down at the "trail" across the glacier. Not too many people make it all the way here. 

The passage on the east side of the hostel is called Obers Mönchsjoch, and the glacier hier is called "Ewigschneefeld" ("Eternal Snow Field"). In the center is the distinctive profile of Mount Wetterhorn, the main mountain east of Grindelwald and the main peak during the second hike we did. 

A look at the hostel from the east side as we descend back to the snow trail. 

The Snow Cat has to always be available to prepare the trail to the hostel!

The trail between the Sphinx and the hostel is along the south side of Mount Mönch. Look at all this glacier snow/ice

Another glimpse of the Aletsch Glacier to the south

The line of ants never ends! And we are part of it. Back at the Sphinx now

A close-up shot of all the people on the terrace 

We just made it for the 12:47 train back to the Eigergletscher station. We were happy to have an extra half hour for our second hike of the day. 

PART II: We started on our second hike, the "Eiger Trail" at 1:15 p.m. or so, starting at the summit station of the Eiger Express cableway, walking along the base of the famous Mount Eiger North Face, a favourite of mountain climbers. Mt. Wetterhorn was the mountain that was always in our sights. We took three hours to do the two-hour hike, catching the Kleine Scheidegg cogwheel train at 4:15 p.m. at Alpiglen. This was perfect timing to head back out of the valley and up another valley to our accommodation for the night. 

Back at the Eigergletscher station, another look up above us at Mount Mönch (We had walked on the other side) and the Eiger Glacier

I saw the frame, and thought it was another one from the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" for my collection. It turns out it's for all the Koreans who are touring Switzerland visiting all the sites where their favourite TV show was filmed! (Iseltwald on Lake Brienz is the other most infamous one). 

Starting our second hike of the day at Eigergletscher at 13:25. We have to be in Alpiglen at 16:15 at the latest for our last connection to Saxeten. That gives us just under 3 hours for the two-hour hike. 

A look at the Eiger Express cableway and our trail (the upper one). 

We pass below the summit station of the Eiger Express cable-way

A closer look at the fabulous gondola cabins. The trail starts on the right, where some other people are headed. 

The 6-km Eiger Trail beneath the North Face of Mount Eiger (Note: The map also shows where the Jungfrau Railway makes its way through the mountain).

Heading down the trail, our first task is to find a suitable place for our picnic lunch, as it's already 1:30 p.m.

The only flowers we saw on the trail! And so high up. 

Across to the west is Kleine Scheidegg (a pass) beneath Mt. Lauberhorn, the location of the famous ski competitions. This is the summit station of the train which we caught at Alpiglen on its way down to Grindelwald. 

A perfect place for our picnic lunch, off the main trail a bit. The Eiger North Face actually only starts on the section on the left

Now we are directly in front of the Eiger North Face! The square stone column in the center is aptly named "Der Turm", or "The Tower"

Mt. Wetterhorn now comes into view and this is the view we had for most of the way until the descent to the train station. Right in the center is the pass called Grosse Scheidegg

Looking behind us we see one of the two "Silberhörner" (Silver Horns), part of the Jungfrau Massif. 

Even though there were many people on the trail, we still managed to keep a good distance from them. 

Always a gradual descent over a varied terrain

One small patch of snow to cross. No problem. 

Down below is our first glimpse of the buildings that comprise Alpiglen, where we need to catch the train. Further below is the "Grindelwald Valley", and on the mountains across the valley is another popular high trail from Schynige Platte in the west (accessed by cogwheel train) and Grindelwald First on the right (cableway). The trail takes 5 hours to walk. We did that hike in 2015, I believe.  

There's a train just making its way through Alpiglen. It's the 15:15 run to Grindelwald. We have to be down there for the next run at 16:15

Near the place where we have to descend

There's the trail down to Alpiglen.

But first there is a waterfall to photograph!

VIDEO:

The Waterfall

A look back up to the North Face of Mount Eiger as we make our way downhill

A look back at the waterfall

Just one colourful plant pot makes all the difference. 

Another look up at the Eiger North Wall as we arrive in Alpiglen

The fantastic Eiger Express cable-way, 6-1/2 kilometers long!

We actually got to the train station about 10 minutes early. Here's the 16:15 train to Grindelwald. 

Good-bye Eiger North Face (we sat in an older wagon where you could open the windows. This photo is from the train)

The mountain town of Grindelwald. 

Location of the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau Trio in Switzerland

PART III: We then took the train from Grindelwald to Wilderswil, and from there a small bus up to the final stop in the small village of Saxeten in the Saxeten Valley, from where we were starting out on the next day's hike. We were the only guests overnighting at the Alpenrösli Hotel, a very old hotel with creaky floors (good thing no other guests)! We got lots of personal service and a home-cooked meal (especially fabulous was the appetizer of home-made bacon and salami!!!). We ordered breakfast for 7 a.m., and had a very good night's sleep.

Heading out of the valley past the pretty houses of Grindelwald

The flowers on the chalets are always so pretty. 

Arriving in Wilderswil where we have to wait for the small bus to Saxeten. The train continues to Interlaken, filled with Asian tourists!

These are the cute trains which run up to Schynige Platte

Heading up into the Saxeten Valley, this view is to Interlaken and Lake Brienz. (It's a view we look forward to seeing as we climb to the Rengglipass the next day)

Seven of us rode up on this, the final bus trip of the day. The driver, "Michi" and the bus stay here for the night, and the first run down valley is at 8 a.m. The first hikers then come up at 9 a.m., and our plan was to be well underway before they got here. 

The hike to Rengglipass (2 hours 20) and down to Suld (4 hours) which is the plan for the next day, are part of Trail no.38: "Via Berna"

Our hotel, "Hotel Alpenrose". A date painted in Roman numerals under the roof seems to indicate that the house was built in 1895. The owners used to run a day restaurant here as well, but it got to be too much work, so they now only offer accommodation with breakfast or half-board. 

The owner is a hunter and had many large deer antlers on display in the dining hall. We were served a very tasty appetizer of home-made bacon and deer sausage, so very tasty! Then a salad, and then hamburger with noodles, and pear sorbet with Williams liqueur for dessert! (Not for vegans!)

 

The dining hall in the Alpenrose Hotel