Safien Valley Walser Trail, from Tenna to Arezen (Versam)

Sunday June 11, 2023 -- Our plan for this day was to go to the back of the Weisstannental (Weisstannen Valley) near Sargans, to do a challenging hike where we were hoping to see Ibex. The bus runs to the end of the valley only on Sundays, that's why the choice for this day.

But on our way there, it was clear that the mountain valleys were once again going to be "cursed" by low cloud cover, as has been the case all week, so we switched to Plan B, which was a trip to the Safien Valley in Canton Graubünden, only 30 minutes more travel time (3 hours instead of 2.5). The place we had long wanted to see was a small mountain village near the entrance of the valley (so hopefully not too many clouds!) which boasts the first (and possibly only) ski lift in the world entirely operated on solar power.

We didn't actually see the ski lift as it was up the road from where we started (it's also just a small one), but nevertheless, we enjoyed the village of Tenna, did another great 3-4 hour hike, and still had stunning views up the valley even with the low clouds at the back. 

To get into the Safien Valley you first travel by train through the Rhine Gorge (local name is Ruinaulta), nicknamed the "Grand Canyon of Switzerland", which is always a memorable experience, as is the bus ride into the valley. 

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This album starts again with photos of the journey to Tenna, as the landscape in the Rhine Canyon (Ruinaulta) is quite spectacular.

Heading out of the city of Chur on the Rhaetian railway in the direction of Disentis, we spot the single large cloud formation directly over the spot where we want to hike! This happens so often, it seems

This section of the Rhine River which we are headed into (specifically the Rhine Gorge) is a Mecca for kayaks and canoes. But I have never seen the boats loaded into the train like this!

A favourite spot of mine along the way in Reichenau where the Posterior and Anterior Rhine Rivers meet, the church tower in Tamins, and the Kunkels Pass in the back, a pass which we climbed in May of 2020, those photos are HERE

At this corner in the Rhine River is a sign indicating how high the river got in July 1987 (lower sign) and September 1927 (middle sign). That would have flooded the railway line. 

I am glad for the old little red trains where you can still open the windows and take photos of the river, the gorge and the magnificent rock formations carved by the river through a section of the country where one of the largest landslides in Earth's history occurred. 

At the train station Versam-Safien, we catch the bus that goes up the Safien Valley. We had left home early (6:45) and were boarding this bus at 9:20

This is a first! I've not yet seen a dog keeping his driver master company on the bus runs! (I couldn't get the front seat because of him, though)

Heading up the road into the Safien Valley, there are a few breaks in the trees where you can look down into the Rhine Canyon. 

I'm always amazed that the cars don't run into the bus in these narrow corners. The bus has the right of way, so the car has to back up. 

A glimpse of the church just outside of the town of Versam. We had hoped to make it back here on foot, but that ended up being too long of a way. 

Instead, it was just about here on the road below Arezen (this entire hillside is called that), that we caught the bus later on. 

Our bus continues along the main road up the valley, but here is the road that leads higher up the mountain, to the village of Tenna. The little Van-Bus waits here . Eight of us (basically all the bus occupants) changed here to the mini-bus.

A look up the Safien Valley as the bus heads up the winding road to Tenna

From below, a look at the church in Tenna, built in 1408. The clouds are thick on the mountain tops (just as we had seen earlier in the day), but here in the village, and later for most of the hike, we had the sunshine. 

A sign on the town's grocery store wall advertises that Tenna has the world's first solar-powered ski lift. 

Various pretty houses in the village of Tenna

First stop obviously will be a look inside the village church. This church built in 1408 was a welcome addition for the Walser people who immigrated here in the 14th Century. The church formed the basis for a united village. It has a small and large bell, and the small bell has been ringing here for 600 years. 

Another charming interior with beautiful wood-paneled ceilings and some spectacular painted frescoes on the walls, obviously touched up

A look from the altar side to the back of the beautiful little church

Colourful and detailed paintings on the north wall depicting the Easter story (Passion of Christ). These beautiful paintings were covered up during the Reformation period of 1524, and not until the restorations of 1957 were the frescoes uncovered. 

Other close-up details of this very pretty church

At 10 a.m. we are ready to head out on our hike. First goal is Tenner Chrüz (the cross on the hill), which we reached in 1 hour 15 minutes. Ultimately we ended up at the bus stop in Arezen, but it did not take us four hours. 

Starting at 10 a.m. in Tenna, we were up at the cross at 11:15, and then it took us an hour to walk along the Sclüechtli mountainside to Brüner Alp. Picnic lunch nearby at Imschlacht, and then another hour to descend to the bus stop in Arezen, for the 14:18 bus back to the railway station. Just over 400m ascent, and 1100m descent, ca. 10 km. 

Heading up the hill, we made good time!

Some very interesting fences here!

As we head uphill, we get a nice view across the top of the village of Tenna

Always those cows blocking our path. 

Many farm houses along the way

As we head north up the hill toward the "Tenner Cross", this is a look south up the Safien Valley

Another opportunity to support the mountain farmers by buying their cheese, of which we now have a fridge full from all around the country!

Another look down at the village of Tenna

Pansies and Gentians. The wild pansies were a surprise, I always think of them as garden flowers. 

We weren't the only people who made their way up to the cross. This was a Sunday family outing, and they had a picnic up here. The kids, who did very well on the uphill climb (400 meters ascent!) were a bit too loud for me, so we didn't stay long. 

From the cross, a panorama view down the Safien gorge to where it meets the Rhine gorge and the mountains of the Sardona Tectonic Arena to the north. 

A closer look at the hillside called Arezen, and the approximate spot on the road where we caught the bus, after descending from the left

We took our own photos at the cross, and then headed on our way, to find a different spot for our picnic lunch. It was now 11:20, and so early anyway. 

For about 45 minutes we followed this narrow trail all across this hillside. 

The alpine roses where I am standing are not blooming yet. It is unfortunate that we could not see the peaks of the Sardona Mountains to the north, but the view is still fantastic. 

This trail just never seemed to end. Not a problem, though, we like trails like this.

Finally, we see the farm at Brüner Alp, and hoped to find a bench there for our picnic lunch. As it turns out, the only bench was just past that group of cows below (not a single bench near any of the farm houses) and that bench was already being used!

Down at the Brüner Alp at 12:25, an hour after leaving the cross. 

At Brüner Alp. Behind Urs is the Schlüechtli peak which we had walked along for about 45 minutes. 

Some more interesting fences. 

A bit further down the road from Brüner Alp is a small farm called Imschlacht. It didn't look like anyone was home, so we "borrowed" the bench in front of the largest structure for our picnic lunch. (The owner showed up about 10 minutes later, but he didn't say anything).

The view from our picnic bench in front of the barn. This place actually has a bus stop! It only runs twice a day in July and August from Laax, but we want to try it out some time!

The meadow in front of our picnic bench

Heading downhill now back toward the main road. Look at this beautiful meadow! In all it was a long 600-meter descent, but we made it down in an hour. 

Little barns along the way, and the Schlüechtli mountain in the back. We were way up high on that!

We could just make out the trail that we walked up higher

These look like Highland Cattle

And these are, I believe, an orchid of some kind. 

Heading down the steep hillsides through the tall meadow grass!

I am so happy that we are seeing so many beautiful flowering meadows. 

We got down to the road just a few minutes before our 14:18 bus. 

What our hike looks like on Google satellite maps, and other hikes we did nearby, including a walk through the Rhine Gorge in 2015

The bus passes back again through Versam. It was really full this time. I guess many more people had gone up the valley in the meantime and heading back again. 

Another look down into the Rhine Gorge from the winding road above. 

The only other buildings down here next to the station building are a canoe/kayak school and rental shop!

Getting back on the little red train from the Rhätian Railway, with windows you can still pull down!

A close-up look at some of the fantastic rock formations on the gorge walls near the Versam-Safien train stop in the Rhine Gorge

VIDEO:

From the train, through the Rhine Canyon

Heading northeast now, back out of the Rhine Gorge, along the Anterior Rhine, considered the main original branch of the Rhine River. 

After this railway bridge, the gorge can no longer be accessed on foot. Only the train and boats can pass the river here, until the next stop at Trin. 

VIDEO:

Train Ride along the Rhine River between Versam and Trin, arriving in Trin

This section of the river between Versam and Trin is very popular with boaters of all kinds. 

And now we're back at Reichenau again, where the Anterior and Posterior Rhine Rivers meet to form the Rhine River, which then heads north at Chur toward Lake Constance.  

Where the Safien Valley is located in Switzerland.