Loop Hike in the Klöntal Valley to Schwialp Pass and Saas Pastures

Saturday June 24, 2023 -- After a full five days of no hiking (!!!) we had another beautiful weekend ahead of us, and made good use of both days.

For Sunday we already had a plan for a four-hour hike, and wanted something relatively easy this day, but we changed plans three times before a very short-notice decision for a hike that also turned out to be four hours!

We were already on our way to Bad Ragaz in the Rhine Valley near Chur, where we wanted to do a 2-1/2 hour easy hike on the east side of Mount Pizol, but as we reached Ziegelbrücke at the junction of the Linth Valley and Lake Walensee, the thick cloud cover where we were heading (dissipated quite shortly thereafter) made us decide to head up to Lake Klöntal instead, a good decision. And from the Richisau bus stop at the back end of that lake we had several options, and decided AGAINST a lakeshore hike out of the valley, and FOR another hike to the Schwialp Pass, where we had been once before back in June of 2015, and rather liked it up there, having wanted to explore the upper alpine pastures once we had seen them at the time. (Those photos are HERE).

The 400-meter climb from just up the road from the Richisau Restaurant was just as "tough" as last time, but that is always soon forgotten when we get to the upper pastures: Lovely meadows, narrow trails past several farms, cool mountain air, and superb clear views of the lake which we would not have had on any of the other choices we were considering. 

Note: The more well-known hike here in the Klöntal is the one that crosses the Pragel Pass into the Muotathal Region of Canton Schwyz. We did that 5-hour hike in 2016, those photos are HERE.  .

Heading south into the Linth Valley by train, we get a good look at the Glärnisch mountains, which form the south side of Lake Klöntal. That is the valley we will enter by bus from Glarus

We had about 30 minutes in Glarus to wait for the bus, so we walked around some of the streets in this town. (Urs was looking for a local specialty, so we checked some grocery stores). I don't know what building this is. 

Stadtkirche Glarus

This is the east end of Lake Klöntal. There is a bus stop here called Rhodannenberg. (From here I walked back down to Glarus once in May 2016, those photos are HERE)

The bus continues along the north side of the lake. These mountains called the Glärnisch are absolutely breathtaking. 

And this is the west end of the lake. The bus continues up the mountain for another 3 kilometers to the Gasthaus Richisau

This is the end of the line at Richisau. We stopped here for a coffee (I forgot to take photos!) to discuss what we really wanted to do for the day. 

First we were going to walk back out of the valley (direction Glarus), but decided to go up to the Schwialp Pass instead. It felt like a mountain-hike-kind-of-day

After 15 minutes along the road from Richisau, we ascended 400 meters through the Richisauer Forest. Then to the Pass, and back along the large alpine meadows called Saas, before descending back to Richisau. Four hours of strict walking time. We started at 10:10, and got back to Richisau at 15:45 approx. 

Heading up the road, this is a look eastward to the Glärnisch mountains. 

Ahead of us, the more popular trail would be to continue to the Pragel Pass on the left side. We want to explore the alpine pastures beneath the cliffs straight ahead. To do that, we have to hike up through the forest on the right. 

Here's where our hike up the mountain starts!

About half-way up the steep hillside there was a barn, and a bench where we could stop for a rest. 

On the trail was a "Slow Worm" (such a weird name, called "Blindschleiche" in German). This looks like a snake, but it's actually a lizard without legs. I've only ever encountered dead ones, which mostly got run over by mountain bikes. This one was alive. 

The first view as we emerge from the forest. Straight ahead is the Pragel Pass, with the Schwyzer Alps in the Muotatal Valley. 

Finally, we're out of the forest and on the mountain road. In the back is the large Karst region called the Silberen

Heading toward the Pass. This farm is called Brüschalp

Once we get to the pass, we will head back in this direction, but on the trail higher up along the base of the cliffs on the right. 

At 12:15 we've reached the Schwialp Pass. That's two hours after starting out in Richisau. Suggested hiking time was 1-3/4 hour, but we did take a good long break at the barn on the steep ascent. 

I climbed the hill a bit on the north side of the pass (these mountains are called the Firsten) to see if I could get a glimpse of the other lake, Wägitalersee. But I would have had to go much further. I did see a herd of lovely goats with one single (adopted?) baby sheep.

It was so unusual to see a single white lamb up here on the mountain, with a herd of very nice-looking mountain goats. 

VIDEO:

Cute goats and sheep having the run of the entire mountainside

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Hanging out at the Schwialp Pass for a while, waiting for some sunshine. It was only right here that the clouds blocked the sun. 

A "Rock Garden"

Heading off from the Pass to the south now, back into the sunshine.

I think I know now why the pass is called Schwialp. It looks like this upper alpine pasture is called "Schwein Alp" (Pig Alp?). "Schwi" would be a local dialect word for "Schwein", thus the "Schwi Alp Pass"

The large alpine pasture called "Schwein Alp". There was very pretty cow-bell music once again. 

VIDEO:

The sound of the cow bells on the mountain pasture called Schwialp (or Schwein Alp)

This farm which we passed is called Oberschwialp (Upper Schwi Alp). Further down the mountain are the Middle- and Lower Schwi Alp farms. 

Lots of meadow flowers again up here. 

We had been looking for a good place to sit for our picnic lunch (a large flat rock maybe) but had to finally settle for this spot in the meadow because it is now 1:30 p.m.! Still not a bad view. 

A look behind us after crossing this beautiful upper alpine pasture area called Saas. 

Now we finally get the first glimpse of Lake Klöntal

As we walk further south, we see more and more of the lake and the Glärnisch mountains on its south side. 

Equally fascinating is the Silberen, the largest Karst Region in Switzerland, which also contains a 200-km system of caves called the Hölloch, one of the longest in the world. 

Here, just below the Saas Pass we headed back down into the Klön Valley. It apparently would only have taken another 35 minutes to walk up to the Pass (upper right), but another almost 2-1/2 hours then to the nearest bus stop in the Sihl Valley on the other side. I wasn't up for that!

Down below we can see the Pragel Pass Road, which is closed to vehicle traffic on weekends. 

A closer look at the largest karst region in Switzerland. This region was created by deposits of schrattenkalk (slaked lime) about 125 million years ago. 

A final view of the Klöntalersee as we make our way back down the mountain toward the Pragelpass road. 

At this point the time is 14:43. Our bus in Richisau leaves at 15:50. As usual, this is pretty close. It leaves us exactly two minutes extra to get to the bus, or wait another hour for the next one. What to do? Walk fast, naturally. (We ended up getting to the bus two minutes before departure!!)

Down below is Richisau, where we have to be in an hour from now...

On the way down the mountain.

This heap of cows on a small hill with a cross was kind of funny!

Back down at the road now, the same view we  had earlier in the morning, only now you can see the mountains better!  (15:37, with 15 minutes left to walk!)

A good section to walk quickly! The restaurant is just behind those trees. 

15:48, and we didn't even pause, just walked into the bus.... and the bus driver came on just a minute later! There were only three of us on the bus, so we sat at the front, and the bus driver told us about the region.

This is what our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. This is the third hike we have done starting in Richisau. 

The bus driver slowed down here so I could take a photo, as he said it was the best view on this stretch of the road!

Here at the west end of the lake is a large campground, and there were many people enjoying the water and sunshine here. 

This is the actual colour of the water in Lake Klöntal

Riding the bus back to Glarus along the lake, with more views of the practically vertical rock faces. 

At east side of the lake in Rhodannenberg. This is actually a reservoir lake, with a dam. 

Back in Glarus, I wanted a photo of the city fountain, a very pretty fountain in a park next to the train station. 

The train station in Glarus. It's now 16:40, and we were home by 6:15 p.m., just 90 minutes later!

Region of the Klöntal Valley in Switzerland, in relation to where we live.