Steinbockweg (Ibex Trail) in the Weisstannen Valley in the Sardona Tectonic Arena

Sunday June 25, 2023 -- Back at the end of May of 2020 we did a hike up the Lavtina Valley (side valley to Weisstannental) to the famous Batöni Waterfalls in the UNESCO World Heritage Site Sardona (those photos, definitely worth looking at, are HERE). About halfway up that valley was a another trail branching off and up a steep hill: The trail was called the "Steinbockweg", or "Ibex Trail". We have long wanted to walk that trail, to see the ibex. (In fact, on the way to the waterfalls in 2020 we had observed a very large, old Ibex near the trail). The trail also passes through part of the 4000-hectare no-hunting region called "Graue Hörner". 

So this Sunday was our chance (we had to do it on a Sunday because the bus we needed to take us to the start of our hike at the back of the Weisstannen Valley runs only on Sundays, unfortunately). Generally, when walking this trail, people might start on the east side, as descending here is rather steep. We chose to start on the West side, because it was less ascent and in the morning shade. This was a good idea as we covered the first almost 600-meters ascent to the large Valtnov Alp quite quickly. (Interesting side note: This is also the trail that the cows must climb to get to this upper alpine pasture). Another positive aspect of this choice is that we had the fabulous early morning visibility into the Weisstannen Valley.

The descent via Rappenloch on the East side was indeed steep, especially at the top, and we (unfortunately) saw no Ibex. (Later on, when we had dessert in the Weisstannen Museum, the owner told us that by end of May, the Ibex have moved to much higher elevations!!). Interesting though was to learn that this steep mountainside is where the Ibex were first re-introduced into Switzerland after having been eradicated through hunting in 1809. The trail is now more informative than a place to view the Ibex.

The museum was interesting: The owners finance the upkeep and renovations with income from the "restaurant" (which consists of tables from the original building set up in the various rooms) and products they produce from the garden next door. We had a very expensive dessert, but it was an interesting way to end our day before getting on the overfilled bus: All the other hikers this day had gone to the waterfalls! In fact, we only passed five people on the main part of our hike. Luckily, they sent a second bus, as the bus runs into this valley only every two hours....

The excursion starts with a bus ride from Sargans into the Weisstannen Valley. We first pass through the town of Mels, with the beautiful backdrop of the Churfirsten mountains. 

Heading up the curving road into the Weisstannen Valley, this is a look across the rooftops of Mels. The mountain in the back is called Gonzen

Most of the people on the bus got out here in Weisstannen, the main village in this valley, a 40-minute bus ride from Sargans. From here it's a 2-hour walk to the famous Batöni waterfalls. 

The bus continues for another 7 minutes up the valley to the final stop at the farm and restaurant called Vorsiez. This is where we started our hike at about 9:20

We started at about 9:20 in Vorsiez. This was about a 4-hour hike, and we got back to Weisstannen at 3 p.m.. The next bus wasn't till 15:50, so we had some dessert at the museum. 

We chose to start our hike on this side of the mountain so that we would have shade for the climb. Much of the way up the mountain was made of steps like this or similar. Herds of cows take this same trail to the summer alpine pastures. 

Climbing the steep zigzag trail: Our first goal is the alpine pasture at Gula, a 45-minute hike and the first 280 meters of our ascent. 

This placard informs us that we are in the wild game reserve called "Graue Hörner". This is a no-hunting region, and all those animals feel safe here. We didn't see any, not even a marmot. 

A look down now at Alp Vorsiez and the very back of the Weisstannen Valley. The main mountain at the back is called, I believe, the Foostock, which is right in the very center of the Sardona Tectonic Arena

On this bench, in a weird local dialekt, is written (translated): "Come sit down and rest a bit"

We made it to the farm at Gula at 10:05, about 45 minutes after starting on our hike. 

By now I had to change into my shorts. Studying at the table was a young lady who informed us that she was the "cowherd" and lived here in summer. What a lovely place!

This herd of cows was a mixture of all kinds of breed, some which we had never seen before. It was quite interesting. 

The cowherd told us that the black-and-White cows which look like pandas are the Galloway breed from Scotland. An Internet search reveals that they are nicknamed "Oreo Cattle". Also, the pure white ones with black noses seem to be a British breed called "British White". We have also never seen these before. 

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Something seems to be bothering the cows, they were making quite the bellowing sounds for a long time...

The girl had told us that the cows were good cows, but then I saw two of them fighting, and the grey one pushed the black one right out of the pasture and under the electrified fence!

Here she is trying very hard to get the black cow back into the pasture, but it doesn't want to go back in! I don't blame it, seems it was getting bullied a bit!

After a 10-minute break at the little farmhouse we continued up the hill, but did watch the efforts of the cowgirl until she did finally manage to get the black cow back into the fold. (To do so she had to pull out the fence, and then all the other cows wanted to leave!)

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The Cowherd is having a hard time getting the black cow back into the fold! The other cows all want to leave, once the fence is down.

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As we climb higher and get closer to the main alpine pasture, we see more of the back of the Weisstannen Valley

This is the summit of Mount Foostock. This is one of several mountains in the Tectonic Arena which demonstrate how an upheaval of the Earth's crust many millions of years ago might have caused these folds in the mountain. (Usually there are quite different layers of rock above and below the fold lines). 

This trail with all the steps would definitely be easy to descend on !

More steps, and these are even paved. The cows have to hike up here as well, moving always higher to different alpine pastures. 

Another view of Mount Foostock. To the right is another peak called Risetenhoren, and a pass next to it, into the next valley over. 

At 11:15 we got to the farm at Vordersass, and sat on that bench for a few minutes, after now having ascended 600 meters. We decided to continue on to the highest point of our hike, the Horn (another 100 meters, and supposedly 35 more minutes, but it was longer) to have our lunch break there.  

From here it should be about another 2 hours and 15 minutes to our destination in Weisstannen. It was definitely longer than that: More like two hours to Unterlavtina, and another 45 minutes to Weisstannen. 

From here we get the first views DOWN the Weisstannen Valley. The river that flows down this valley is called the Seez, and when it reaches Mels, it heads northwest and flows into Lake Walensee

As we head on toward the horn (approximately at the arrow on the left) we first have to cross a marshy area in between. Time to the horn should be about 35 minutes, but it took longer. 

The farm at Vordersäss

There was a bull in the pasture, chasing some of the cows. You don't often see bulls like this in the fields. Magnificent animals. 

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The lovely sound of cowbells on an upper alpine pasture in the Weisstannen Valley

Looking past the cows on the upper alpine plateau (they come up here on the same trail we did) to the farm at Vorsäss. This large alpine plateau is called Alp Valtnov. 

Crossing the wet marshy area took longer than expected

I love cotton grass, but it is prettier before it gets all squashed from the rain!

Finding the best way to cross the streams!

A look across to the range on the north side of the Weisstannen Valley. There is a trail across the entire crest called the "Sardona World Heritage Trail", which I would love to walk, but it is a bit too long for us. 

Heading up to the Horn now, this is a look behind us into the "cauldron" called Gams. The main peaks here are called Laritschchopf on the right and Hüenerspitz on the left. 

And another look across Alp Valtnov to the very back of the Weisstannen Valley. The little peak in the middle is alled the Risetenhoren, and to its right is a pass called the Riseten Pass which you can hike across. 

At 12:15 we arrived at the Horn. Unfortunately we were not alone, even though we met only five people on the trail! But we had our picnic lunch on the bench at the left, with a view down the Weisstannen Valley. 

Our picnic bench at the Horn, 840 meters above the valley bottom. 

The view from our picnic bench. Below is the village of Weisstannen, from where we caught the bus back out of the Valley again. 

A close-up look at the village of Weisstannen. 

At 12:40 we were ready to head down into the other valley called Underlavtina. What a spectacular backdrop!!! Such a steep valley, and in the back the crags of the famous Pizol peaks (Pizol and the Lavtina Horns)

Although we ended up not seeing any Ibex, this trail called "Steinbockweg" is more of an educational trail. This panel informs us that in 1809 the last ibex was shot in Canton Valais, in effect eradicating the animal from the Swiss Alps. There was only a small herd left on the Italian side, owned by a Duke, and he was not willing to sell any, so the Swiss "stole" some animals from his herd in the night, and reintroduced them into Switzerland. The first herd was re-established here in the Rappenloch in 1911, which we are now descending. 

The steep descent down the Rappenloch couloir. The first part of the trail was narrow with a steep drop, and very dry, so we didn't have much grip with our shoes. It was slow going. 

A close-up look at Mount Pizol (on the right, I believe) and the Lavtina Horns. 

The cliffs of the Rappenloch. We studied these very carefully on the way down for any sign of Ibex, but we only saw and heard sheep, all over this hillside (some of them ventured into the rocky sections). 

On our way down we saw this intriguing little building which is a large converted barrel. These are usually sleeping accommodations which you can rent. 

Urs checking if the little house is open. Hopefully there is no one sleeping there right now!

Being watched carefully by a sheep....  Also, up ahead are two girls making their way up the path. We believed they were going to spend the night in the barrel, as they checked out the hottub behind this cabin, which the renters of the barrel-room can also use. 

Studying the cliffs in the Rappenloch for any signs of ibex

Always happy to find any mountain water to wash the sweat off my face and hands. 

This sign is cute, it was "written" by the sheep: "Please close the gate! Dogs and Lynx must be on a leash. Thank you from "The Sheep".  " We've never encountered lynx in the Alps. There aren't many. 

A look down the Lavtina Valley toward the Weisstannen Valley

Now we've reached the main trail that most people walk, from Weisstannen to the Batöni Falls. (Trail no. 73: Sardona Heritage Trail). From here we had another 40 minutes back to Weisstannen, a trail we've done before, and still don't like (wide and gravelly and with a slope just slightly too steep to descend comfortably). 

40 minutes to descend to Weisstannen. At least it was mostly in the forest, and not hot. 

At the entrance to the Lavtina Valley is a sign welcoming you to the UNESCO Heritage Site Sardona Tectonic Arena, a 300 square-kilometer area in the border regions of Canton St.Gallen (where we are), Glarus and Graubünden. There is no other place on Earth where the "common folk" can witness up close how the mountains were formed. This region has been studied by geologists for over 200 years, whose studies have revolutionized the understanding of how mountains were formed. 

Last stretch into Weisstannen. Also here the farmers harvest mountain hay on very steep hillsides. 

We got into Weisstannen at 3 p.m., 50 minutes too early for the bus. The "Old Post" building invited us to try out their homemade cakes and ice cream, so that's where we spent the extra time. The house is over 250 years old and originally served as an inn for the loggers who cut wood and sent it down the Seez River to Mels and Lake Walensee during the spring thaw (water pressure carried the wood down-river). Later it was the local store and post office. 

The new owners have converted the old building into a museum, where they serve home-made desserts to finance the renovations. They have kept the original floors, ceilings, and much of the furniture. 

It's kind of fun to have dessert in a museum! While we enjoyed the dessert, the owner spoke at length with us about the history of the building and what work they had to do to restore furniture and ceilings. He also told us that there are no ibex on the Ibex Trail after about end of May or mid-June, as they then move to cooler higher elevations after that. 

Urs leaving the "Alte Post" after paying our bill. The dessert was expensive for what was offered, but hey, we are supporting the upkeep of this lovely old building. 

Another very nice old building in the upper part of the village. 

Looking straight up the mountain to where we had our picnic lunch a few hours earlier. We can't see the cross from here, but from up there, we certainly saw down to this part of the village!

Lots of people waiting for the bus, which only runs every two hours on Sunday. Most of these people did the hike to the waterfalls (3 hours for there and back). There were also many with suitcases who spent some vacation time up here. Fortunately they called ahead, and two buses were sent up for the return trip to Sargans. 

These are the hikes we have done in the Weisstannen area: in 2018 we walked OUT of the valley 14km to Mels (those photos are HERE) and in 2020 we did the hike to the Batöni Waterfalls and higher, 13 km and 5 hours. (Those photos are HERE)

Heading back out of the Weisstannen Valley by bus, and nice view of the Rhine Valley Plain south of Lake Walensee. Behind those mountains is the Prättigau Region of Eastern Switzerland.

The cities of Mels and Sargans below

A close-up look at the old part of Sargans and the beautiful fortress

Passing through Mels again on the way to Sargans

From Sargans by train, we pass the fortress, and it makes for a good photo each time!

Heading north along Lake Walensee with the Churfirsten mountains. I photograph them each time as well!

Seems to be a lot of windsurfing activity on Lake Walensee this day!

Location of Weisstannen Valley and the Sardona Tectonic Arena in general, in relation to where we live. From Sargans, we can be back home in 90 minutes. 

Now, because we didn't see any Ibex this time, I have to repost my video of the old Ibex we observed here near the Rappenloch in 2020, when we walked up to the waterfalls.