Val Colla: Cimadera to Villa Luganese (near Lugano)

Saturday January 14, 2023 -- Another foray into the mountains near Lugano in Canton Ticino... to find a bit of sunshine. 

Some of the side valleys offer good mountain hiking away from the cities, so we went into Val Colla again. The last time we were here was in September 2021 where we did a challenging mountain hike right to the Italian border at the back of the valley (those photos are HERE). At that time the landscape was still green, but in winter it's all brown. But the trails are clear and the hiking is good, and sometimes you can actually see more without foliage on the trees.

We started in Cimadera near the back of the valley, a little village perched on a promontory. We walked around the promontory first to look at the region we had walked in 2021 (Cozzo, Bogno, Passo San Lucio), and then we headed West out of the valley toward Sonvico, one of two final villages on this hike. We knew, being on the north side of the mountains that form the border with Italy, that we would probably have shade, and that was unfortunately the case for the first hour of walking. Once we got out of the shade with the first glimpse of the magnificent "Denti della Vecchia" mountains, the sun was veiled by clouds. But it was still mild temperatures for this 3+ hour hike.

We stumbled on part of the local themed trail called the "Historical Sonvico Nature Trail" and learned quite a bit of information from the placards along the way. And even though the village of Sonvico has quite a bit of historical importance for the area, I found it rather drab and dark. We ended the hike in the next village over, Villa Luganese, which required a descent to the Dino River, and back out again. 

From behind the village of Cimadera we first wanted to get a glimpse of the very back of the Val Colla, below Monte Gazzirola. We hiked there a couple of years ago (to Passo San Lucio). You can see the trail just below the snow line, and right above the tree line. These mountains form the border with Italy here. 

A quick walk in the alleys of Cimadera before we start on our hike. 

A look westward down the valley to the Monte Tamaro / Monte Lema ridge. We walked this ridge in 2015. 

It's about a 3-hour walk to Sonvico, via the small chapel called Madonna d'Arla. We started on the hike at about 11:30

With walking around the villages of Cimadera, Sonvico and Villa Luganese, this was a 14-km hike!

A look back at the village of Cimadera as we head out on the trail. 

At this time of year the trees are bare and the ground is strewn with leaves, but a walk through the forest is quite comfortable. 

Another look back at Cimadera in the sunshine, as we walk for the first hour in the shady forest!

A peek through the trees at Monte Tamaro and one of the towns in Val Colla (this one is Bidogno)

Close-up of Monte Tamaro

Here is where we stopped for our picnic lunch, with the first view of the "Denti della Vecchia" massif

That cut off tree trunk shows how massive that chestnut tree must have been!

About the half-way point of our hike at the chapel called Madonna d'Arla. The chapel was built in the 15th Century and is part of the "Historical Sonvico Nature Trail" which we are now following. 

After returning home from this hike, I had a look at the map provided by the Tourism Bureau of Lugano, showcasing the interesting points along the "Historical Sonvico Nature Trail". The first of these that we encountered was no.20 as we rounded the hill from the northeast. We did not see items 12-19 

This sign explains that this hill is a chestnut orchard. The trees are grafted with various sorts of chestnuts depending on their use. The trees were always planted far apart so that the land in between could be used for grazing. Chestnut trees were brought here by the Romans 2000 years ago.

We found a bench where we could rest and admire the "Denti della Vecchia", a ridge we also crossed in May 2015, a hike I would like to repeat again one day. 

From this summit called Monte Roveraccio, we get a view of Monte San Salvatore and Lago di Lugano. 

The highland cattle are a popular breed in this valley. The entire hillside at the back of the valley was used for grazing when we were there a couple of years ago.

Descending on the south side of Monte Roveraccio. Apparently, this whole hill was once covered with chestnut orchards. 

We were looking forward to having a peek inside San Martino Oratory, as it has frescoes inside, and apparently a very special altar from the 7th Century, the oldest in the area. But the building was locked and we have not been able to find out how one can get inside (borrowing a key or something)

Information about the San Martino Oratory

Instead of being able to go inside the church, we had to content ourselves with reading about the 7th Century altar on an information panel outside the chapel. 

A last look at the San Martino Oratory before descending to Sonvico

With the advancing afternoon light, we can see so many more details now on the "Denti della Vecchia" peaks. 

It's hard to see on this photo, but it looks like the tree is taking a bite out of this bench!

A look at Monte San Salvatore over the rooftops of Sonvico

To the south and separated by a gully is the village of Villa Luganese where we have decided to end our hike, after first checking out the village of Sonvico. 

Information about the village of Sonvico as we enter from the top side. 

The first "Holy Building". "Chiesa Santa Maria di Loreto". Inscription above the door reads that the church was founded in 1636 and renovated in 1920.

There were relatively many cars passing through the narrow alleyways!

The old buildings all attached to each other were quite high, and the alleyways thus relatively dark. 

Another look at the Denti della Vecchia past the roofs of Sonvico

The old justice building dating from the 1600's. The coat of arms of 12 cantons were probably painted in the 18th Century and list the year of accession of these cantons to the Confederacy (those that joined until the year 1600)

John the Baptist Church (from as far back as 1375), our next place to visit

Information about the "Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista"

Details on the inside of the church

Beautiful painted ceiling inside the "John the Baptist" church. I wasn't too fond of the interior, it wall all too angular. Even the columns were square instead of round.

Houses of Sonvico around the church

The town was founded around the old city well, mentioned as far back as 1473 and the main source of water supply until 1894. Drinking water directly into the houses was only supplied as of 1907-1908.

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. From Sonvico we descended into the little gorge, and then up to Villa Luganese, where we caught the bus back to Lugano at 16:40

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta in Villa Luganese (first mentioned in 1473). From outside it looks rather "modern" but the inside was impressive, very "dark" and very plain. According to the Internet, the architecture is Gothic Style, but it also mentions a transformation to Baroque style in 1720, but it didn't really look Baroque to me. 

The south-facing portico is full of interesting frescoes

We had to enter through a very tiny door on the south-facing portico side

Main square in Villa Luganese. I'm always impressed at how the cars navigate these narrow streets!

One final look at the Denti della Vecchia before boarding the bus at 16:40

The sun is setting as we get a glimpse over the rooftops of Sonvico all the way to Lake Lugano, as we pass here again on our way back to Lugano by bus. 

We have done a lot of hiking in this area, but there are still more options in Val Colla to hike, especially the ridge between San Lucio Pass and Monte Bar. That is a 2-day hike, though, and accommodations along the ridge aren't ideal for us. 

Location of Val Colla in Switzerland, near Lugano