Hike to the Engelhorn Hostel in the Rychenbach Valley.

Tuesday September 6, 2022 -- Plans for the day changed yet again. We were going to hike to the summit of a mountain not far from Luzern (Fürstein) but traveling on the Luzern-Interlaken train through the valley, it was obvious there was too much cloud cover for my taste. But southward, toward the Bernese Oberland Alps, the sky was blue. So we switched plans for a hike I have long wanted to do, to the Rosenlaui Gorge in the Rychenbach Valley.

To get to the Rychenbach Valley, you take a bus from Meiringen, a popular route as there are connections along the way to the Grosse Scheidegg pass and Grindelwald, but the Rosenlaui Gorge is usually also a popular destination for tourists. Fortunately for us this time, only one other person from the bus wanted to walk via the gorge, so we didn't have to contend with masses of tourists.

Our ultimate goal was the Engelhorn Hostel, located at the foot of the magnificent Engelhorn Peaks and a popular starting point for rock climbers. To get there we had to ascend over 500m (a 2-hour hike), which was surprisingly easy to do, as the first part of the hike through the fantastic gorge was an ascent on a stone stairway, then we were still in the morning shade, and we stopped often to admire the spectacular Rosenlaui Glacier, a sight we had not expected to see. When the sun finally emerged from behind the peaks, we had some forested sections or otherwise a good variety of trail. The "icing on the cake" was a lovely simple lunch at the hostel, homemade potato/carrot/leek soup with bread and SUNSHINE before the clouds quickly covered the sky here also. Which didn't matter as the 90-minute descent back into the valley was also mostly through the forest. 

We were mostly thrilled that we had about two hours of sunshine for the best part of this improptu hike. (Even though we traveled 2.5 hours to get there). 

Heading south from Luzern toward the Brünig Pass. Originally we were planning a hike in this valley, but there was cloud cover for most of the day here, whereas further south, the sky was blue. So we kept going over the Brünig Pass to Meirigen. 

Heading up the Rychenbach valley by bus, this view is of Mt.Wellhorn, with the Rosenlaui Glacier on the left. The water from this glacier is what carved out the beautiful Rosenlaui Gorge. 

This region of the Bernese Oberland is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Aletscharena

Heading toward the gorge. Here the river rushed out of the gorge in form of this waterfall. We started here at 10 a.m.  

VIDEO:

The Weissenbach Falls, as the river exits the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorge

A path has been carved out of the cliffs inside the gorge, so that it actually becomes part of the trail to hike up to the Engelhorn Hostel

It was an interesting passage through the Rosenlaui Gorge, and well worth the 10 CHF entry fee (especially as there were no tourists!)

At some places the gorge is so narrow that the vertical walls on either side almost touch each other!

VIDEO 1:

Walking through the gorge:

 

VIDEO 2:

At the top of the gorge

As we emerged from the gorge, we looked straight up to the summit of Mt.Wellhorn

After leaving the Rosenlaui gorge, we ascended along the base of the Engelhorn mountains, a total ascent of almost 600 meters, which didn't seem that much at all. Normal hiking time to the hostel is 2 hours, which is just about what it took us, even though we spent quite some time in the gorge and admiring the glacier!

As we ascend above the gorge, we get the first glimpse of the glacier above. It is incredible to think that at some time, probably not that long ago, the glacial ice covered this cliff face as well

Our uphill hike went quickly because we were in the shade of the mountain (sun had not passed the Engelhorn peaks yet on this side).

Mt Wellhorn and the Rosenlaui Glacier

A zoomed view of the fabulous Rosenlaui Glacier. 

A lower section of the Rosenlaui Glacier. On my current map, it shows this piece still connected to the main glacier by snow or ice!

After the main ascent, the trail rose slightly higher, through forested sections and interesting rocky sections. For most of the way we were able to see the glacier. We also finally had some sunshine here at 11:15 a.m.!

Final look behind us at the Rosenlaui Glacier and Mt. Wellhorn

A look up the Rychenbach Valley, which rises to the Grosse Scheidegg, and on the other side is Grindelwald. Straight ahead below the last line of peaks is Grindelwald First (Summit station of the popular cableway). 

Several interesting sections, never too difficult

Several interesting sections, never too difficult

First glimpse of the Engelberg Hostel (top right) and the Haslital Valley to the North (in the center of the photo is the town of Meiringen. We came from the North and crossed over the Brünig Pass on the left). 

Around a corner the first glimpse of the stunning Engelhorn peaks, a popular climbing destination. We had to walk this fabulous trail in a long half-circle before getting to the hostel. 

Standing below the Engelhorn peaks. Behind me is a valley called Ochsetal. At the back, according to the map, is another glacier, which we could not see from here. 

The clouds had started to move in now, but as we got to the Engelhorn hostel (30 people can overnight here!) we were greeted with the last sunshine. 

Final approach to the hostel, over a narrow rocky ledge

We had the most fantastic homemade potato/carrot/leek soup up here at the hostel. It's amazing what they can cook up here!

As we ate our soup, we spotted one of the rock climbers on that first peak above the hostel. It's mostly climbers that overnight here. 

Heading down now to the bottom of the Rychenbach valley to Kaltenbrunnensäge bus stop. It is 90 minutes to walk to the road down there (approx. behind the tree on the left. From there we took the bus back to Meiringen again, center of the photo). The low clouds remained all day north of the Brünig Pass. At this point, though, we had the final sunshine till we got back down to the valley bottom. 

Guarding his territory!

As we walked down the easy forest road, Mt. Wetterhorn came into view (one of the main mountains in Grindelwald, on the right with the three glaciers). It was a shame that both peaks (Klein and Gross Wellhorn on the left) were now covered in clouds. Still magnificent, though. 

Cute baby cows

Mt Wellhorn (small and large), Mt. Wetterhorn, and on the far left you can just see the Rosenlaui Glacier

The sky is clearing now again in the Bernese mountains to the South. This is Mt. Rosenhorn, at whose flank lies the Rosenlaui Glacier. Looks like they got some new snow here. (After this excursion, the temperatures in the mountains did drop considerably) 

Another photo of Mt.Wetterhorn from our bus stop at the valley bottom. The weather changes very quickly in the mountains. On our descent we even had a few rain drops. Within approx. 2 hours it went from clear skies to rain clouds and back to clear skies. 

How the hike looks on Google Maps. For us, this was actually a very short and quick hike, even though it was almost 600m of ascent!

Heading back down the Rychen Valley toward Meiringen in the Hasli Valley. We had to wait 40 minutes for our train in Meiringen, but at least there was sunshine again! It was a good choice we made, spur-of-the-moment.

Where the Rychenbach Valley is located in Switzerland. We can get there in 2.5 hours from our home via Luzern and the Brünig Pass