Betelberg to Iffigenalp and the Sinkholes in Gryden near Lenk

(This post published on Jan.5, 2023, and photos from Day 1 are HERE)

Monday September 12, 2022 -- For our second day in the Lenk area (Canton Bern) we had planned another long hike (15km, 5+ hours), a popular hike which starts at Betelberg (accessed by cable-car from Lenk) and ends at Iffigen Alp, passing by the Tungel Pass and the beautiful mountain lake called Iffigensee. (We had overnighted in the nearby village of Matten, so that we could be in Lenk quickly and early, purchasing stuff for the picnic lunch, and heading up by cable car at 9 a.m.). 

From the summit station at Betelberg, there is a loop tour to a very unique landscape called the "Gryden",  a landscape of sinkholes created by water seeping into the gypsum rock and dissolving the limestone as it continues to run underground. Although we didn't do the "loop tour", we took a detour to admire this fascinating landscape (in retrospect, it is more impressive when seen from above, as in the brochures we brought back with us).

This was a very long hike, over five hours, but the weather was perfect for hiking, and the landscape interesting, the trail varied enough, and yet not too difficult, so it didn't seem long at all. Besides, we had arranged to spend the night at the 120-year old mountain inn at Iffigenalp at the very end of our hike, so we didn't have to stress about catching a bus out of the valley. The inn was fascinating, looked like something out of the gold-rush days, old creaky floors, each room accessed from the outside via outer balconies. The only noise was when the restaurant guests returned to their rooms at 10 p.m., but after that, we had a lovely sleep.

Another highlight of the day was the sighting of a griffon vulture (although we first thought it was the rare bearded vulture, but I was corrected by an expert), always a pleasure when we can observe some of the larger birds in the Alps.

This was the house in Matten where we spent the night before heading to Lenk early in the morning (a 7-minute train ride, leaving at 8:16). The room was the upper one, under the roof. It is always nice not to have to travel for 3+ hours first before starting on our hikes!

Lenk is a typical resort town, with lots of sports shops! A large part of the town was still in shadow at 8:30 a.m.

All the benches had this lovely metal back-rest with stencil cutouts of life on the alps!

It was a 20-minute walk to the Betelberg gondola cable-way, and we also stopped to purchase a picnic lunch, so got here at 9 a.m. to start our excursion early!

A look down at the town of Lenk as we ascend Mt. Betelberg. The cable-car saved us a 900-m ascent!

Some of these cabins are painted like Simmental cows!

From the summit of the cable-way, it's 40 minutes to the sinkholes at Gryden, and five hours to our accommodation at Iffigen Alp!

What's this? A carillon made of cow bells, how funny!

As we took a detour around the Gryden region (Stübleni) and Lake Iffigensee, we actually completed a hike that was longer than 5 hours! About 15 km of walking. 

From here we get a good look into the Färmel Valley to the northeast where we walked the day before from the Diemtig Valley to the Simmen Valley. 

Ahead of us is a first look at the Gryden, a region of limestone rock where the water has carved unusual outcroppings and sinkholes

Between the two mountain ranges is the Iffigen Valley which we descended later. I thought we had to cross the saddle behind me (looked impossible), but it turns out that the ascent was on the far right. 

Heading toward Gryden. The direct route to the Tungel Pass is on this side of the peak (Stübleni), but we went around the far side to see the sink holes. 

The cows have not yet been brought down to the valley bottom, but soon (usually mid-September)

We spotted a falcon...

An excerpt of the information about Gryden, from our online hiking maps. "The rain gradually dissoves the ... relatively soft gypsum rock". 

The sinkholes were absolutely spectacular! In the background are the mountains of Canton Vaud (Pays d'en Haut)

We have done many hikes in regions with karst geology, but these were definitely the largest sinkholes we have ever seen!

This is the best I could do to capture the depth of the sinkhole. It must have looked much more impressive from up higher!

Heading back south toward Stübleni to continue on our original trail toward the Tungel Pass. 

A most unique karst landscape

On this brochure, an aereal view of the Gryden sinkholes. This is even more impressive than what we could see from ground level. 

Heading down to the Stübleni Pass, and the onward to the Tungel Pass

A small family of hikers, the smallest one insisted on walking on his own, he did not want to hold his mom's hand!

A look eastward from the Tungel Pass. At first I thought we would have to cross the saddle on the right, but from here that's obviously impossible!

From the Tungel Pass, we still have three hours to walk to our accommodation at Iffigen Alp!

This is a short stretch on the ascent toward our final "pass", but it was not nearly as scary as it might look from here!

A short section along the cliff wall was not at all difficult, especially as the trail is secured by a chain handhold. 

On our ascent, we observed a beautiful Griffon Vulture! A large bird with a wing span of up to 265 centimeters!

Heading up on our final ascent before descending to Lake Iffigen. In the background to the North we can see the karst landscape of Gryden, and the Färmel Valley which we descended on the previous day. 

First glimpse of Lake Iffigen (Iffigensee). From the lake we still have to descend the entire Iffig Valley to the left! These mountains are the Wildstrubel Massif. The top of these mountains is the Canton border between Bern (where we are) and Valais to the south. 

A walk around Iffigensee before continuing down the Iffig Valley

Our first glimpse down the Iffig Valley all the way to the Mountain Inn at Iffigen Alp, where we are spending the night. From here we still had another hour to walk. 

Losing the afternoon sunshine at 5:30 p.m.!

Farm house at Iffigen Alp

First we check in to our room at the mountain "inn". All the rooms are accessed from the outside. We had a corner room!

As an aside, here is a screenshot from the hotel's website: This is a photo of our room!

Then a good supper of Rösti with eggs, speck, onions, tomatoes and cheese of course... and the sun just went down at 6 p.m.

I noticed a hummingbird hawk-moth in the flowers at the restaurant, but with the dim lighting, it was hard to photograph it, as it moves quickly!

Enjoying our quaint hotel! Old and worn with squeaky wooden floors, and an outdoor sink to brush your teeth, and you had to walk outside and along the balcony to go to the toilet at night! They had converted one room to contain a shower, and you had to wait your turn to use it. Wasn't too bad at all

The evening view out of our hotel window, there is still sunshine on the Rawil Pass 700m straight up above! I have crossed that pass twice, from Canton Valais in the South to Iffigenalp here. It looks impossible, but there is a trail there, it's very steep though. 

Our 15-km hike from Betelberg to Iffigenalp as seen on Google Satellite Maps. 

Location of the Simmental in Switzerland. 

Our current and previous hikes around the Lenk area, including two crossings of the Rawil Pass (first time in 1986?). The mountain range is the canton border between Wallis (Valais) on the left, and Bern on the right. 

In 2019 we spent two days in this area. One of our hikes started at the Iffigen Alp. Those photos are HERE.