Via San Bernardino in the Mesolcina Valley

Monday June 6, 2022 -- Over the Pentecost long weekend, thousands of travelers put up with three hours of traffic jams to go south, even when the weather is bad and they have to then put up with wild thunderstorms and fallen trees in their camping spots.... so we usually avoid going in that direction on long weekends.

But this time, taking the risk to get into the Mesolcina Valley (a side valley to the Ticino, but actually in Canton Graubünden, even though Italian is the main language here) paid off, as the only crowds we faced were on the train trip back from Bellinzona in the evening.

We have only on one other occasion traveled up this valley to the village of San Bernardino, and that was in winter. (Those photos are also very interesting, to see what this magnificent valley looks like in winter --> HERE). The Val Mesolcina, a narrow valley formed by the Moesa River and flanked on both sides by steep high mountains, doesn't offer a lot in terms of hiking trails for us, as any existing trails are usually up and over the mountains, too high and too long for us, or otherwise along wide roads. But we did find a wonderful 4-hour trail along mostly mountain paths (with a few sections along paved roads), starting at the final village of San Bernardino, just before the pass of the same name, and walking back down the valley to the main town of Mesocco.

It was so good to be back in the mountains again, with the Alpine roses starting to flower, clear visibility of the mighty peaks around us this time, and a sighting of a chamois who screeched at us (I didn't know they could do that) and a light breeze so that we were rarely too hot.

(Near Mesocco is the Mesocco castle, one of the largest fortifications in Switzerland and deemed impenetrable, guarding the valley from the 13th Century to 1526. It was never conquered. We had considered going to see it at the end of our hike, but put that off for a different trip...)

First, several photos of the bus trip up the valley, then the hike:

Heading into the Mesolcina Valley by bus from Bellinzona

Church of Santa Maria del Castello, located to the South of the Castle, which is just around the corner.

The mighty Mesocco castle guarded this valley from the 13th Century

A stop in Mesocco at the old train station (a railway line used to come up the valley to this town). This is where we got back on the bus after walking down the valley.

Another look at the Mesocco Castle Ruins as we head further up the valley. (The view is down-valley, though)

Looking down on the tiny village of Cebbia as we pass by along the freeway further up. We passed through this village on our walk back toward Mesocco

A look down the Mesolcina Valley as we cross one of the beautiful cement arch bridges. Later, our trail passes under that bridge at the arrow.

Arriving at the town of San Bernardino with the beautiful peak called "Piz Uccello"

San Bernardino is a more of a winter resort location, so it was very quiet here as we arrived.

Starting in the village of San Bernardino, just South of the San Bernardino Pass (the buses are not yet running up to the pass, only through the tunnel at this point), we walked about 13 km down-valley back to Mesocco.

Heading uphill east of the resort village of San Bernardino. In the back is the San Bernardino Pass (we actually had traveled to the pass from the other side last summer, intending to walk along that mountainside, but it was foggy, so we aborted that plan).

Piz Uccello (= Bird Mountain)

We had mostly such good mountain trails, which we love

Across the valley are mountains we hope to walk some time as well, easy to get to starting at the San Bernardino Pass.

The mountain range at the back separates the Mesolcina Valley from the Calanca Valley. There is a 3-day hiking trail along that ridge.

Always some interesting things to see along the way

A reminder that we are in Switzerland

As we descended toward the road below, we surprised a chamois in the gully. He felt trapped and screeched at us, before racing up the gully.

It is always a treat to spot a chamois in the mountains! He was trapped below us and took a big risk running past us below in the gully heading up the hill.

VIDEO:

Chamois racing up the dried riverbed near Pian San Giacomo. (At the 16-second mark, you can see him blow out his cheeks and screech at us)

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A look down at Pian San Giacomo. This downhill section through the forest was the hardest part. It is was a rather steep descent which didn't seem to end.

Just before Pian San Giacomo, we found a good spot here to have our picnic lunch.

This farm in Pian San Giacomo had a little built-in shop selling cheese, yoghurt, meats and homemade ice cream!!!!

Urs paying for his ice cream...

Trail no.733 was marked as the "Via San Bernardino", but it is not yet officially on the Switzerland Mobility Maps. We followed the 1 1/4- hour trail from here to Mesocco, not the longer one!

These steel cement arch bridges, originally pioneered by the Swiss architect Robert Maillart are definitely elegant works of art! Hard to imagine that these constructions, using relatively little building material, can span such great distances and carry so many vehicles!

The bridge is huge!

Heading under the second bridge, the one we saw from the bus window

Both cement arch bridges crossing the Mesolcina Valley

Usually we run into herds of cows; so many mules and donkeys in one place is rather unusual

Doesn't he have the best haircut!

Another cutie!

Usually we are observed by cows, this is a bit different! (Urs was cautious though, because there were many mothers with babies, and that becomes dangerous when we are in a herd of cows)

Enjoying a break looking down on the village of Cebbia below (which we saw from the freeway higher up) and our end goal of Mesocco

Heading down to Cebbia and then along the river trail to Mesocco

The first fire lilies

First a detour to the bridge over the Moesa River

VIDEO:

A small waterfall and a refreshing pool on the Moesa River

Cebbia

Not sure how old the church in Cebbia was, but it was renovated in 1934. Also, it was locked. A good look up the valley where we descended.

Look, there is a butterfly in the photo!

Walking along the river to Mesocco

San Rocco church in Mesocco, dates from 16th Century, a Capuchin Monastery from 1668 on.

We still had a few minutes for a cold drink of "Gazosa" (soda) produced locally. They had Gelati as well, but we didn't have enough time to enjoy ice cream here.