First Real "Winter" Hike near the San Bernardino Pass

December 20, 2017 -- I've never been to the San Bernardino Pass but it's a hike we plan for the summer of 2018. The pass road from the Mesolcina Valley to the Hinterrhein Valley is closed in winter, but vehicles can pass from one valley to the other via the 6.5-km long San Bernardino tunnel, entering from the South at the resort village of San Bernardino.

The fastest way for us to get there is to first go South through the Alps, then North again by bus along the Moesa river, past the village of Mesocco and up toward the pass. 

There are two loop trails advertised as "winter hikes" (which means the trails are prepared for easy walking with pink sign posts that make it impossible to go the wrong way) and we started with the 4-km Pont Nef loop to the North, advertised as "probably the most beautiful and varied route in San Bernardino". We were rather surprised, though, that there were no direction markers, and we had to rely on our Internet map and GPS to make sure we went the right way. And the trail was covered in snow drifts (the North wind was blowing cold!) and we sunk to our knees at places... Not quite what we expected from an official winter trail.

Back in San Bernardino we inquired at the Info Center. "The Pont Nef Trail....." we stated, and the man there, without awaiting our question, finished off our comment: ".... opens tomorrow".  Ah, well that explains a lot... (we joked about us "blazing the trail" for the next winter hikers!)

The second (6 km) loop to the East of the Village was better prepared, a wide track crossing the ski hill and descending through ideal winter forests, but the climb into the North Wind was harrowing. But still and all, the winter panorama in the Alps is always magnificent. 

Interesting Note: The prominent mountain here, Piz Uccello (translates to Bird Mountain or Vogelberg in German) is so distinctive that in the past, the pass used to be called "Mons Avium", Latin for Bird Mountain Pass. There are mineral baths here which used to be a favourite destination for wealthy Italians. 

Heading into the Mesolcina Valley by bus from Bellinzona

Mesolcina Valley, Canton Grisons

 

In the Mesolcina Valley. Here and there are palm trees in the snowy landscape!

Arriving at our destination: Village of San Bernardino South of the San Bernardino Pass

Starting in the village center, we first did the 4 km Pont Nef Loop, which is above the San Bernardino Tunnel. It took us an hour and a half, because we broke through the snow a lot.

Heading up the San Bernardino Pass Road, which is only cleared up to the camping ground. After that, the winter trail follows the Pass road for the first half of the loop. The distinctive mountain on the left is Piz Uccello (Bird Mountain)

It was a gorgeous day but there was a very cold North Wind blowing!

At the top of the loop is the bridge from which the trail gets its name: Pont Nef (=New Bridge) built in 1864 (financed by the Kinf of Sardinia) to replace an old decrepit one. Too bad we can't see it better.

At this point we can't tell which trail to take. Our map showed the one to the left, but on that one we ran into deep drifts, so we back-tracked and took the lower one.

Heading back to San Bernardino. (Our second hike after returning to the village is above the forested area up ahead)

Several sections of the trail were covered with snow drifts like this one. Makes it hard to judge how deep you will sink in!

Just before getting back to San Bernardino, we glanced behind us to the North, for another look at Piz Uccello.

We had a picnic lunch on the steps of this church, which unfortunately was locked. From here we headed South through the village for another hike on this hillside.

The second loop was 6 1/2 km and took us 2 hours 15 mins. Uphill into the North Wind was tough.

Nothing more beautiful than dense forests thickly coated in snow.

This view is to the North, toward the San Bernardino Pass, with Piz Uccello on the right. The low strip of clouds is apparently a common phenomenon here, as the air gets pushed southward from the Hinterrhein Valley to the North.

Near the San Bernardino Pass

"Alp de Pian Doss", the last sunny portion of our hike before heading through the shady forests back down to San Bernardino. It is 2:30 pm.

Looking South down the Mesolcino Valley on our bus ride back to Bellinzona.

Two winter trails (loops), total 11 km, takes about 3 hours 45 minutes total. 

To get to the San Bernardino Pass, we travel South through the Alps (longest railway tunnel in the world) to Bellinzona, and from there Northward by bus through the Mesolcino Valley.