Sunday June 13, 2021 -- After overnighting at the Simplon Hospiz, we started at 8:30 a.m., walking almost 20 kilometers southwards down the valley to Gondo at the Italian border. The trail we followed was "Trail no.90: Via Stockalper", and since this stretch is actually TWO sections of the total three sections of the trail (the other one being the ascent from Brig to the Simplon Pass, which we might one day do, but we would start at the Simplon Pass and walk down!), I made two albums out of it. The photos for the first section: "Simplon Pass to Simplon Dorf" can be viewed HERE.
PART 2: Simplon Dorf (Simplon Village) to Gondo via the Gondo Gorge
The second section, continuing on from the village of Simplon, took us through more beautiful meadows, past the hamlet of Gabi where we had ended our hike the day before (photos can be viewed HERE), then for about two hours through the fascinating Gondo Gorge along the raging Doveria River. Altogether another 2 hours 45 mins. to the 2.5 hours we had already walked.
Particularly fascinating to me was the "modern" restoration of Stockalper's Trail: Even though some features of the original 1600's trail still exist, after his demise much of the trail fell into disrepair. After Napoleon built his road in 1805 (the first navigable road in the western Alps), the trail completely disappeared in places through erosion and rock fall. In order to create a cultural trail for modern-day hikers (2001/02), large sections of metal passerelles were added, as well as staircases and sections of trail next to and ON TOP OF the main road! Additionally, a 300m section passes through a tunnel under the Gondo Fort, a military structure built into the steep cliffs to protect from invasion from Italy during WWII just a couple of kilometers to the South. This section through the gorge was the most costly and technically complicated part of the upgrade of the Stockalper Trail.
Also... Urs has a good eye for seeing wildlife on the cliffs, so he spotted an ibex, which I would not have seen.
Finding out that the village of Gondo -- the end of our hike -- suffered a loss of 1/3rd of the village and 13 lives in a massive rock slide in October 2000 added a serious note to our excursion.
On this section we did feel the heat, and were happy for any water source along the way (not many)! We were glad to get back onto the bus at the border for our ride back up and over the Simplon Pass, back to Brig and with the train home.... a 4.5-hour trip....
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| This is the village of Simplon Dorf, the southern side where we sat on a bench and ate our picnic lunch, looking up at the village. The third section of the Via Stokalper trail starts here. |
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| Heading South toward the Gondo Gorge, we can see the Furgga crossing from where we descended the day before. Both the trail through the Gorge and over the pass are part of the Stockalper trail to Gondo. |
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| The 40-minute walk from Simplon Dorf to Gabi at the entrance of the gorge was again mostly through such beautiful meadows! |
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| Such simple flowers and yet so pretty! We really picked a good time of year to do this hike. |
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| This is the last descent to the level of the Doveria River and the entrance to the Gorge. The hamlet of Gabi is on the left. It's about here where we also came down from the right the day before. |
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| Another look at the hamlet of Gabi. We bypassed it this time and headed straight across the river |
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| A look to the West into the Laggin Valley |
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| Crossing the River which comes down from the Laggin Valley, as we head to the left into the Gondo Gorge. |
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| This is a remnant of a non-completed warehouse built by Kaspar Stockalper in the Gondo Gorge. The walls have fallen down, but the inscription on this lintel reads 1676 |
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| For a while the walking trail ran along the right side of the valley, but soon we had to cross and "share the road" with the road! (but always either next to the road, on top of it, or even below!) |
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| A look back behind us to the North where we entered the gorge. The building on the right is the old military casern built by Napoleon in 1805 but which has been restored and now serves as a kind of museum (it was the only military structure he built South of the Pass). |
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| The water was beautiful, but impossible to get to! |
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| On this side we had to "share the road". Like here, next to the avalanche gallery. We didn't even hear the traffic! |
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| This is one of Napoleon's bridges, although the stone arch was added in 1880. Napoleon originally built the crossing of wood, so it could be dismanteled or destroyed easily in case of enemy attack. |
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| It was a surprise to us that we are now descending into the gorge on a passerelle BENEATH the road! |
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| This is so cool. Passing under the modern road with a look back at the old bridge from the 19th Century. |
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| And now back up to road level... |
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| ...and at road level we discovered that we are now going to be walking ON TOP of the avalanche gallery! |
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| Walking along the top of the motorway |
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| A look back again at another section where we had descended again to walk next to the road |
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| As we approached the Gondo Fort, Urs spotted an ibex on the hill above. I would not have seen it! |
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| The ibex was shedding its winter coat.. |
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| Here we crossed the river on a bridge to the fort |
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| The placard informs us that the Gondo Fort is located at a very strategic defense position in a narrow part of the gorge, and that the Stockalper trail passes through the fort for about 350 meters. |
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| This is part of the Stockalper Trail! 350m through a tunnel under the Gondo Fort |
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| A little bit of fun before exiting the fort. |
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| I am always astonished that they do not get native English speakers to review the English instructions on these warning boards. In any case, it's one of the better ones I've seen! |
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| Urs takes his "Rock Fall Warnings" very seriously and heads straight through. He doesn't even look back to see if I'm following. I, on the other hand, think that if a rock falls, it will hit me whether I walk or stand still. So I stop for photos, even though that's not allowed....BUT, I won't stop if I encounter old acquaintances.... |
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| Having just crossed the 300 meters of "increased danger of rockfall" |
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| A single bit of colour in this gorge. |
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| Coming down from a mountain trail we are going to do the final stretch on top of the avalanche gallery again. Gondo is just around the corner at the end of the gallery. |
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| It was so hot and I needed water so badly. We actually hadn't crossed any streams because any water is funnelled under or over the gallery.... but I was hoping we'd find some water here.... |
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| Lucky for us we had access to the waterfall water! |
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| Last stretch to Gondo below, walking on top of the gallery. |
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| A final look at the beautiful gorge behind us. |
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| Here we are near the Italian Border. Above that waterfall is the entrance to the Zwischbergen Valley where we had been the day before. |
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| Up there is the beautiful Zwischbergen Valley, accessible by road (and by bus!) on a zigzag hairpin road! |
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| At the customs crossing to Italy |
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| This is another castle built by Kaspar Stockalper in the 17th Century (it looks very much like the Old Hospiz near the Simplon Pass). Half of it was swept away by the rock slide of October 2000. In the meantime it was rebuilt. Here is where we waited for the bus back to the Simplon Pass |
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| This would be our emblem or mascot... |
Just to portray how extensive the damage was to this little village from the rockslide of October 2000, here is a photo from an SRF Switzerland news report from October 13, 2020. Ironically, it was a cement wall, erected to prevent rocks falling onto the village, that was weakened by the rain and caused the most damage. 13 people lost their lives as their houses were swept away, and half of the Stockalper castle was also ripped off.
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| This is the map of the full 19-km trail, two sections of Via Stockalper Trail. |
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| Location of the Simplon-Gondo area on a Switzerland map |
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| Day 1: Hike from Zwischbergen to Gabi // Day 2: Hike from Simplon Pass to Gondo. |
And here are a few photos again of the bus ride back up to the Pass -- places we'd seen on the way down -- and then down to Brig:
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| Passing the Rossboden Glacier at Simplon Dorf |
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| Maschihuis |
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| Altes Hospiz (the old Hospiz built by Stockalper) |
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| Celebrating Switzerland and Italy |
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| At the Simplon Pass across from the Simplon Hospiz where we spent the night |
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| Another look at the Stone Eagle on the Simplon Pass |
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| A view down into the Rhone Valley as we descend from the Pass to Brig |
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| And a final look up toward the Simplon Pass |
And additionally: A photo of the most well-known of Kaspar Stockalper's properties, his palace in Brig. The view is from the Guesthouse we stayed at while in the area a year ago.
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