Hiking through the Emmental, from Innereriz to Schangnau

Saturday October 31 -- A week ago we walked along the Glaubenberg High Moors just East of the Schrattenfluh Massif, and this week we walked just slightly to the West of it, in the Emmental Region. 

We decided to start near Innereriz, in a small side-valley near Thun, which forms the border between the Bernese Alps and the Emmental region. From there we walked a small crest and descended northwards toward Schangnau, which is just across the Emme River, from which the Emmental gets its name. 

This again was a lovely mild day with a good view of both the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau Trio whose peaks became more visible the higher we climbed, as well as the lovely Hohgant and Schrattenfluh massifs.

As it turns out, we missed the bus in Schangnau by just two minutes, but since there was still enough sunshine, we continued northwards across the pasture lands until we were able to catch the next bus, which was just at the border between the Emmental (Canton Bern) and Entlebuch (Canton Luzern) regions.

The only not-so-great part of this excursion: From the train station at Thun to the last stop along the line, the bus was jam-packed full, so much so that the driver could barely close the doors each time someone got in. We were worried we'd be having to walk with the crowd, but we got out before the end of the line, the only ones! The rest continued on for what we realized was probably to hike the passage into the Justiz Valley to the South, back to Lake Thun. So for us, another successful choice with practically no one else along the trail....

A 45-minute bus ride from Thun to Innereriz in a jam-packed full bus. But some nice views out the window over the city of Thun

We were worried that we had to walk with dozens of other people, but we were the only ones who got out here (three stops before the end) to walk over the hill to the North. We realized the others were either climbing to the top of Hohgant (ahead) or into the Justiz Valley to the South. 

First of many beautiful Emmental farmhouses which we passed along the way. Our trail took us up the hill behind this house.

What I can't stand but which seems to be my lot for almost every hike is the sound of the leaf blower!!! We had to endure this for about 20 minutes.

Heading up the hill behind this lovely farm-house

The next farm we got to (called Babschwand) had this cute little cottage on the property. An engraving under the roof extension reads "1783". These cottages were usually built for elderly farmers whose children took over the farm and main house.

Continuing up the hill from the Babschwand Farm

A view westward down the Eriz Valley (not sure it's really called that) which we came up with the bus from Thun.

First glimpse of the Schrattenfluh massif. The crags far right are the Giswiler Stock at the base of which is the Glaubenbielen Pass, where we walked to the week before (on the other side of the Schrattenfluh)

To the Southeast is the other prominent massif here: Hohgant

After ascending 370m to the next farm called Grosshonegg, this is the panorama view we had of the Hohgant and Schrattenfluh massifs to the East and SE.

And to the South, peeking over the hills that separate us from Lake Thun, are the always magnificent trio of Bernese Alps: Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau

As we walked westward, we even glimpsed Mt. Finsteraarhorn (on the left), which is actually the highest peak of the Bernese Alps (4274 m or 14,022 ft).

And with a good zoom view, between the peaks of Mt. Mönch and Jungfrau is the famous observatory at Jungfrau Joch, a popular tourist destination nicknamed "Top of Europe". 

Interesting clouds

Another farmhouse called Althonegg. From here we scrambled uphill to the ridge for our first look into the Entlebuch area on the North side.

First glimpse to the North to the village of Schangnau below (our planned destination). Most of the pasture we see here is still part of the Emmental (Canton Bern), but the next larger town to the North (Marbach) is alread in the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern.

Heading down to the valley bottom where the Emme River flows. This "valley" is called Bumbach.

Heading down to the Emme River

A look South to the passage into the Justiz Valley. We assume most of the people on our bus hiked up through there.

Many beautiful Fly Agarics to be admired in the forests here

At the top of that hill, which you can access by cable car, is the vacation village of Marbachegg, a popular winter destination for local families, especially for skiing. Our destination is in the valley to the left.

Afternoon light

After descending through the forest, we get to the cross-roads on Trans-Swiss Trail Route no.2: We could go East to Kemmeribodenbad, or West to Schangnau as planned. We knew we weren't going to make it to the next bus anyway.

We decided to continue to Schangnau. This here is the crossing of the Emme River

Crossing the Emme River

Arriving in Schangnau

Restaurant Löwen in Schangnau. We got here just as the bus was pulling away. 

Since it was only just after 3 p.m. and there looked to still be lots of sunshine, we decided to walk to Wald (45 minutes) which would just be in time for the next bus

The chapel in Schangnau

Lots of farms in this wide open pasture land

A look back toward Hohgant

Comfortable path on the way to the village of Wald where we are going to catch the next bus.

Old barn

Another pretty Emmental house across the road from the bus stop in Wald.

From the bus window on our way North to the train station in Escholzmatt:  This is the Schrattenfluh Massif in lovely late afternoon sunlight.

Our originally-planned 3hrs and 30 minutes' hike (from just before Innereriz to Schangnau) turned into over four hours of walking because we just kept on walking after missing the bus by two minutes!

Although we had never been to Innereriz before, we have done several hikes around Marbach and Schangnau. Now we need to connect the trail to Kemmeriboden Bad! (on the left below the Schrattenfluh).

A Visit to 1000-year old San Carlo Negrentino Church in the Blenio Valley

(Trying to catch up with my photo albums. This excursion we did to the Blenio Valley took place on Oct.28, but I am only getting around to sorting the photos on November 13)

Wednesday Oct.28th, 2020 -- This was one of those many days when the weather North of the Alps is not so great, but South of the Alps was mild and sunny. So that's where we went. This time we again visited a side valley called the Blenio Valley (branches off from Biasca toward the Northeast). When we were here in early 2019 (photos can be viewed HERE), we found out about a 1000-year-old church on the hillside high above Acquarossa, and we had always planned to return to have a look.

So that was our excursion for this day. Combined with a hike, of course. Walking along the valley bottom we would have had more sunshine, but we prefer mountain trails, so we mapped out a mountain hike starting from the church and heading South (passing through a few villages first). We knew the orientation of the hillside meant early "sunset", but we forgot that the time had just changed three days earlier, and we had one hour less, so a real disappointment as we ended up doing most of what would have been a very enjoyable hike in the cool shadow of the mountainside.

But the visit to San Carlo Negrentino Church was the real highlight and definitely worth it. We had forgotten, though, that we were supposed to pick up the key at the bar in Leontica, where we got off the bus, and were almost at the church when we remembered. Lucky for us, the church was unlocked, and we were the only visitors so had the place to ourselves (there is parking nearby for tour buses, so I am guessing it's a popular tourist destination otherwise). This building has special monumental value because of its lavish Romanesque and Late Gothic Frescoes. It was stunning. 

There are several historical-themed trails in this area with lots of information about the structures (mainly churches) and the trail we followed was part of such a theme. 

A small bus took us from Acquarossa at the valley bottom, up a winding road to Leontica (we were the only passengers). This view is up the Blenio Valley. From this final bus stop in Leontica, it is a 10-minute walk to the church.

This bridge was built in 2007 to make the church easier to access. Before that, visitors had to climb up a narrow trail in this gorge.

The church of San Carlo Negrentino was first mentioned in documents dating from 1214, but parts of the church structure date from the 11th Century. There apparently was an entire village of houses around the church, but they fell into disrepair and were removed.

We were thrilled to find that the door was unlocked, otherwise we would have had to walk back to the village of Leontica to get the key (10 minutes).

The Late Gothic frescoes (15th Century) are magnificent

Second of two apses in this church, which we found unusual

The entire interior of the little church was painted like this, it was such a wonderful work of art.

And this one is a very special work of art. It is a fresco from approx. the 11th Century (Romanesque). Incredible to consider the age of this....

East side of the structure with the bell tower and the two apses

A look southward down the Blenio Valley. We are planning to walk along the hillside on the right and to descend behind the lower sunny plateau. But even from here we can tell we are going to have lots of shadow.

Heading back from the church to Leontica where we had started. From here we head South.

The parish church of San Giovanni Battista in Leontica also has history back to pre-Romanesque period (earlier than 1000 AD) but was rebuilt in the Late Baroque style in the 18th Century.

The interior of the church is Rococo-Style from 1780's

A look back at the parish church of Leontica, as we head South. This area had lots of sunshine for most of the afternoon.

A small bus took us up the winding road from Acquarossa to Leontica, from where we first walked 10 minutes northwards to the church of San Carlo Negrentino. Then we continued South through a few pretty communities, but had mostly shade from Casserio onwards, except on the plateau called Valè. We then caught a bus at Semione.

This was a fun sighting.

This little chapel in the next community (Cumiasca) was unfortunately locked, so I could not peek inside.

Arriving at Casserio. From here we could have descended back to Acquarossa and remained in the sunshine, but the trails below are mostly on paved roads.

Walking through Casserio toward the forest where we entered on the mountain trail, which was actually quite challenging and not just a "walk in the woods".

The 2.5-km stretch from Casserio to Valè took us an hour to walk, all in shade like this. The trail was interesting and would have been fun to do with sunshine!

Most of the trail to the next hamlet was through the forest, except for this one section where a piece of the mountain obviously came down!

So happy at the prospect of a little sunshine!

Always interesting are the streams we have to cross

From the sunny plateau at Valè another look back at Leontica and San Carlo Negrentino, and all the sunshine over there! And on the left, the dark forest we just spent an hour crossing...

We spent a while up here in the sun, it was a great place for a break. Below is a group of hikers who had actually also boarded the train in our home town, and who we met here at this spot although they had taken a different route. This kind of thing rarely happens.

I was loathe to continue on our hike because the next stretch is along the shady road behind those houses. After that we barely had sunshine any more.

Heading down the road toward the next hamlet called Navone, from where we are going to descend to the valley bottom. N.B.: The side valley to the left on this photo is the Val Malvaglia, a stunning valley we have visited twice.

Approaching Navone from above. We enjoyed just the smallest amount of sunshine here as well!

Another building with historical value (Oratorio di Santa Maria Bambina) was also locked, which is very unfortunate, as I really would have liked to see the inside.

Descending to Semione. The shadow from the mountain is moving with us!

Another tiny chapel with frescoes as we descend through the town of Semione

More similar interior artwork in this tiny chapel

Narrow alleyways in Semione on our way to the bus stop

We still had time to look around the church yard at the parish church in Semione, which was right across from the bus stop.

Looking up at the hillside behind Semione, where we descended from

Our trail mapped out on Google Earth

This photo is from a ReMax website (the villa on the right is for sale) which I "stole" because it shows how beautiful this valley is when the sun shines... and is a better shot of the parish church in Semione than I could photograph.