Wednesday November 21, 2018 -- The only place with a little sunshine in the forecast was in the Vorderrhein Valley, high in the Alps where the Rhine River has its source near Andermatt, so we planned a walk along the Senda Sursilvana trail (also part of the St.James Trail or Jakobsweg), continuing where we left off last time... But although it was OK for a train ride, by the time we started on our walk it was cold and uncomfortable. Plus the alpine landscape in its in-between stage (not summer, not fully snowed-over) is simply bleak and dreary, especially when the clouds pull over the sky, which is what ended up happening.
The highlight of the town of Disentis is St. Martin's Abbey, which we'd never been in before so that was the plan, which as it turns out will have to wait another year or two because apparently they have been renovating the monastery since 2016. (History: first construction in the year 700, and refurbished in the current Baroque style in the 17th century. Cost of the renovation is about 15 million Francs)
Since we'd already come this far, we went on our planned walk, parallel to the Rhine River (here called the Vorderrhein in German and Rein Anteriur in the local Raetoromanisch language) but we only completed about 8 km before getting back on the train heading home through the Rhine Gorge, which is the site of one of the largest landslides in the World's History that happened about 10,000 years ago (we have walked the gorge trail a few years ago)
I will wait till summer again to continue on this trail, it's just more enjoyable....
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Our excursion started with a train ride South along the Reuss Valley toward Göschenen. This village of Wassen is always a treat to view out of the train window |
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From Göschenen a steep cogwheel train takes you up to Andermatt, a popular ski resort, from where the train winds back and forth to the Oberalp Pass. This view is across Andermatt to the SW along the Ursuren Valley. |
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Heading East toward the Oberalp Pass |
VIDEO:
Riding the train toward the Oberalp Pass
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Along Lake Oberalpsee. The Pass is straight ahead, in the sun. And not far from there is Lake Tomasee, the source of the Rhine River |
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Lake Oberalpsee at the Oberalp Pass. For now, the weather looks promising! |
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Approaching Disentis, the start of our hike, with its Baroque Church, currently under renovation.This location is 900m lower than the Pass, thus less snow.... |
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Not possible to view the inside of St.Martin's because of renovations |
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Starting at about 11:15 in Disentis, we ended this 7½-kilometer walk shortly before 2 p.m. at the train station in Sumvitg/Cumpadials. Had the day been sunnier and warmer, we would have continued along the trail for longer, as there are several bus stops and train stations along the way. |
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As this trail is part of the St.James trail through Canton Graubünden, we pass a lot of churches and chapels along the way. This one has an unusual "round" shape. |
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Another little chapel below the road in Madernal. |
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Walking parallel to the young Rhine River, here called Vorderrhein or Rein Anteriur. (In English = Anterior Rhine). |
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We passed through a couple of small villages. This one, Cumpadials, was the end of the hike for us, only 8 km from Disentis. |
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Antique Fire Engine on skis |
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Cumpadials, Canton Graubünden (Grisons) |
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We got to the station with just one minute to spare, which is how we usually manage it. |
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Getting back on the Rhätian Railway train to continue toward Chur along the Rhine Gorge
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As the train passes the town of Trun, we see several other churches which we'd like to look at some day in the future, when the weather is warmer! |
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An interesting-looking chapel across from the train station in Trun. |
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A lovely stretch of railway through the Rhine Gorge |
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This Gorge is only accessible on foot or by train. It is the site of one of the largest landslides in the World's History |
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The Rhine Gorge (Ruinaulta) near Versam |
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Following the Rhine River (Vorderrhein) |
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The sign indicates the High Water Mark in July 1987. This is shortly before Tamins |
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This was the third section of the Senda Sursilvana Trail that we have done. Both other times were also in late Fall / Winter. Next section will be in Spring, when the meadow flowers are blooming! |
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