November 4, 2018

Along Lake Walensee from Amden to Quinten

Sunday November 4 -- After a 20-day hiatus since our last hike (that's the longest period this year without a hike, including January!!! -- reasons: cold weather, rain, snow, foot pain) we tried one again according to the weather forecast which, yet again, didn't deliver, but it was a nice 3+ hour hike anyway, along the (usually) sunny side of lake Walensee in Eastern Switzerland.

There were enough highlights to make up for the lack of sunshine, particularly that we spotted two chamois in a clearing near the road where we started the hike. I'm sure they knew we were there, but must have realized we were far enough away to do them no harm. In any case, they seemed pretty blasé about our presence. Best part of the day! 

There is a 20-km trail along the North side of Lake Walensee beneath the massive vertical cliffs of the Churfirsten Mountain Range. In the very middle is a tiny village called Quinten, accessible only by boat or on foot. We have hiked four times here now, twice to the West and twice to the East starting or ending in Quinten each time. Today's fourth time was starting in the West, in Amden, and hiking eastward to end in Quinten.

It was mostly a forest trail above vertical cliffs, but because of the sunny exposure, this area has its own microclimate, with several clearings with farms and palm trees and vineyards... Figs and kiwis and khaki and banana trees do well here, as well as grapes and something new we'd never seen before: Mulberry trees. Learned something new: Mulberry leaves are the only thing silkworms eat, and here on this sunny slope was a mulberry farm for a new industry: silk worms. For 100 Fr. you can adopt a mulberry tree.

Also learned this: There is a waterfall here, at 585m one of the highest in the world, it has three sections and the middle section falls 305 meters; that's the highest free-fall waterfall in Switzerland, and worth a detour to the viewing platform, which we didn't do this time, because we saw it last time when it had way more water....

We were hoping to spend a couple of hours in the sunshine in Quinten, eat some dessert on a lakeside restaurant terrace, but it got cold and uncomfortable, so we took the boat to the other side, back to the train line. With less daylight these days, 2 p.m. feels like the end of the day anyway....


On the way up by bus toward Amden... it's on the left that we are going to be walking above the first cliff. Clouds are already blocking the sunshine even though the Webcam two hours earlier showed lots of sunshine


At the start of our trail, a look back at the foot of the lake toward the Linthal Valley, I spotted a chamois in the clearing. A few minutes later, a second one showed up.

Two chamois came out of the forest, weren't bothered by us just 100m away, nor the noise of the cars on the road above

It's always a treat when we get to see chamois


In a steep-sided inlet, we had to cross this dam

This inlet shows how steep the cliffs are on this side of the lake

Several farms, ancient barns, Gasthof restaurants and farmshops along the way gave our hike a nice variety. This is in Betlis, a community on the sunny terrace above the cliffs.

These sheep are called Dropers, a South African cross of two other breeds, and according to information posted by the owners: Abundant in South Africa, North America, the Middle East, Australia and here in Betlis!


In Betlis there is also this 585m high waterfall (in three sections) called Seerenbachfälle. In its second section, the water falls 305m, and according to information posted nearby, this is the highest freefall waterfall in Switzerland and one of the highest in the world. When we came through here 3 years ago, there was much more water. There is a trail that you can go up to get closer to the falls, but we skipped that this time, having seen them up close last time, with more water.

Most of the trail was through "sun-dappled" forest, as we did get a bit of sunshine along this stretch

It was a good time of year to do this hike, as the trees still had leaves and the autumn colours are always a pleasure.

Most of the trail was easy-going, nice mountain trails or wide forest paths. As if a small vehicle could pass here.

The 30 minute descent toward Quinten was steep and you had to watch your step

I didn't recognize these trees at all, didn't look like any fruit trees I'd ever seen, until we read this big sign: White Mulberries: This farm will feed 40,000 silkworms, and create a new industry here. 

The rest of the walk was pleasant and mild

Fig tree

Vineyards do well on these sunny slopes

Looking across the vineyards to Quinten, the end of our 3-hour 8-km hike.

I love this little cellar store. Last time we were here (2015) I bought fig jam for my Dad. 

There are all kinds of jams and preserves and syrups and ointments (all home-made) available for sale in this Cellar Store, and you pay into a little strongbox. I would have liked one of the clay pots, but those had no price on them.

Along the way are random baskets with fruits, nuts and preserves that you can also pay for in that cute little strongbox (not sure if it's secured, but no one walks away with it...)

The trail continues past Quinten, and from here you get a good view of the village.

Village of Quinten on Lake Walensee. Accessible only by boat or on foot

Our boat is arriving to pick us up for the trip across the lake.

Heading across to the South side of the lake, looking back to Quinten among the vineyards.

This is the little ferry that takes people to Quinten. It was very full for this trip because the next crossing wasn't for another two hours.

This time we walked from Amden to Quinten. In 2015 we walked from Quinten to Weesen (June), from Walenstadtberg to Quinten and from Quinten to Walenstadt, both in December.

In the morning, the Webcam was showing nice and sunny where we wanted to walk. By 10:30 the sky was overcast.

Marked by the circle: The highest free-fall waterfalls in Switzerland, so easily accessible to us, how wonderful...

And this is what the Beerenbachfalls looked like in June 2015:

June 2015


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