Trip to the Poschiavo Valley: Day One in Guarda and over the Bernina Pass

August 7, 2018 -- Vacation Week Day 4:  With Parkes' Eurail Pass she can travel the Rhaetian Railway for free, which stops among other things at the Bernina Pass (Ospizio), the highest railway station on the Rhaetian Railway Line (2253m). Furthermore, the trip passes through the Albula Region of Canton Grisons, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008  (see also this link: UNESCO). We thought this trip was advisable to make good use of a train pass and see a unique part of Switzerland (one of Switzerland's four national languages: Romantsch is spoken here, the only place in the world this language exists).

Since this is a very long trip, we decided to make it a 2-day trip with overnight in the Poschiavo Valley in a B&B run by a lovely Swiss-Italian family we met when we first came here in February 2015. 

The day started out overcast and cool, especially in the Engadine area of Canton Grisons, where we decided to spend the full 3-hour break we had planned into the journey in the charming village of Guarda, which is the setting of one of Switzerland's most popular children's story books: "A Bell for Ursli" (first printed in 1945). The village has received distinction for its cultural heritage and is a veritable jewel with its wonderfully painted facades. We've been here before in winter, but always discover new things, such as the short but darling 4-km round tour hike dedicated to the main character of the children's book, strewn along the way with clever activities to distract the children (and grown-ups as well).

After this short reprieve we continued on to the Bernina Railway line at Pontresina and lucked out with an open viewing wagon attached at the back of our train, and fabulous sunshine for the long ride over the pass and down into the Poschiavo Valley, a narrow piece of Switzerland which juts into Italy, and even though it is part of Canton Grisons, it has a very Italian influence.

Highlights included the Morteratsch Glacier, Lake Bianco at the Bernina Pass (a reservoir lake with a dam at each end, and a watershed for both the Adriatic and the Black Sea), the 360-degree Brusio Viaduct, and pizza and gelato in Tirano, Italy just across the border, before returning to our B&B in Campascio, Switzerland.

After three hours on the train we arrive at Guarda, where we stayed for almost three hours before continuing on to the Bernina Pass

Because the village is 200m higher than its train station, we took the little shuttle bus up to the "main" plaza in Guarda

Charming village of Guarda with its wooden town fountain (not many are made of wood)

Every house is different and unique. This is the style in the Engadine. Most villages have houses like this.

Some very pretty details.

 

Schellen-Ursli Trail

We actually did not know about the Schellen-Ursli theme trail before coming here. We came across it quite by accident while trying to get a look over the village of Guarda from above. A brochure written as though narrated by the main character of the children's story directs you to various activities along a 3-km trail, so we decided to follow it. It was fun and informative on a piece of popular Swiss culture. The story was inspired by the village and its traditions, and the book, first published in 1945, has been translated into 8 languages including braille, and sold millions of copies world-wide. 

The book "A Bell for Ursli" (or rather original "Schellen Ursli") is the inspiration for all the activities around this theme trail. 

Along the trail we got the view over Guarda and the Lower Engadine Valley, the view we originally came for.

Back in the village we decided to walk down to the train station in the valley, as the bus had a "lunch break". It took us 13 minutes.

Walking down the 200m from the village to the train station in the valley.

We spent about 2 and 1/2 hours in the village of Guarda and on the trail. It was a good break.

Just in time with a few minutes to spare to catch the train to Pontresina, for the rest of our trip over the Bernina Pass.

Our next train ride to Pontresina (from where you can either go to St.Moritz or over the Bernina Pass to Tirano)

In Pontresina we were delighted that our train had an open viewing wagon attached on the back! We rode in this for 2 hours and 15 minutes!

First place of note that we passed is the Morteratsch glacier. Mount Bernina (Group) is on the right, Piz Palü is on the left.

Heading up the high plain toward Lake Bianco and the Bernina Pass

Up ahead is the train station Bernina Ospizio, the highest station on the Rhaetian Railway network

Everyone, including the Swiss Browns, love to watch the little red train passes by.

Lake Bianco is both a reservoir with a dam at each end, and a watershed for the Adriatic Sea to the South and the Black Sea to the North.

 

Everyone on the trails waves to the little Red Train, and all the people in the train wave back. It makes the trip fun!

 

As we pass the station at Alp Grüm, we glimpse the Palü Valley where the plan is to walk up to the hidden Lake Caralin the next day.

 

And on the other side, the long and winding descent into the Poschiavo Valley

VIDEO:

Short clip of our crossing of the Bernina Pass with the Rhaetian Railway.

 
 

Looking back along Lake Poschiavo to the mountain we descended (on the left toward the back).

Looking South, the border to Italy is at the end of this valley. Ahead is the village of Brusio, and you can just see a section of the 360-viaduct

Brusio and the 360-degree viaduct bridge

VIDEO:

Crossing the 360-degree Brusio Viaduct. In order to gain altitude in the mountains, there are many 180-degree or 360-degree tunnels built into the mountains, but here the engineers were not able to build the turn into the mountain, so it is right in the middle of the valley.

Along the rail line is the B&B we will be staying at. We joined the kids later in their swimming pool!

Final destination: Tirano across the border in Italy. This is good-bye to the wonderful viewing wagon!

We only stayed here for an hour, to eat Italian Pizza and Italian Gelato. There's not much to see in Tirano, it's just the starting point for most Italians from Milan for outings on their summer holidays. Note the "USA Pizza" on the menu, the one with French Fries on it. I haven't had the nerve to try that. From here we returned to Switzerland, 20 minutes' ride to Campascio to our B&B.

This is the total train journey we took over the two days. On the way back we returned via the Albula Valley, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites Albula and Bernina.