August 11, 2018

Hike to Lake Bannalpsee (A variation on the Walenpfad Trail near Engelberg)

August 11, 2018 -- Vacation Week Day 8:  (Day 6 was a day of rest for me as our Guest and Urs did another big hike to the source of the Rhine River near the Oberalp Pass. Day 7 we spent traveling between home and Berne, visiting Lucerne, a cookie factory, a huge mill crammed full of thousands of second-hand books and watching street musicians in Berne).

So the last hike of our vacation was perhaps the most surprisingly interesting or rather varied one due to several unexpected occurrences and adventures, most notably the lack, once again, of sunshine even though the forecast was for clear blue skies.

This hike in Central Switzerland was close to our home, took only about an hour and a half to get there. We did a variation on a hike called the Walenpfad, which is a very popular trail from Engelberg to Lake Bannalpsee, considered one of the prettiest in Switzerland (and did I mention also most popular!). We had done this hike before in fall, when below us was a thick blanket of fog, and above pure sunshine, so we never saw the lake, which is supposed to be quite stunning. This time it was the opposite: Cloud cover above, but at least we saw the lake. Would have been better with sunshine though!

First fun variation: Whereas everyone else on the bus went up one of the regular cable cars straight to the lake, we took the local farmers' option: an open 3-seater, so much fun! Urs had to use the old phone to let the farmer know to send us up! First though, we found a self-serve cupboard near the old cableway station, so bought some sausage for our picnic.

Second fun surprise: on our hike up to the lake we passed by the quaintest little mountain dairy where we inquired about buying cheese, and were treated to an actual cheese tasting: five samples for each of us of the same cheese ripened across several years. We bought a big chunk of the oldest cheese, which was hard and salty like Sbrinz and fun to eat later that evening after our fondu (SO MUCH CHEESE!). Third unexpected but pleasant enough consequence of no-sun was that we had the muddy 200 meters climbed in no time... to our pre-lunch of a huge plate of French Fries to warm up. More uphill took us across the most stunning landscape: Cliffs, narrow trail, views to the lake from way up high... no wonder this trail is considered one of the prettiest in Switzerland.

Instead of continuing to Engelberg we descended to another cable car we had never been on before. That 4-seater was a scary experience! Not sure anyone else uses it except the farmer who lives up here. Other adventures on the way there and home were big detours around scary-looking cows, getting zapped by an electrified fence, and having to stand in the train back to Luzern because EVERYONE goes to Engelberg on a Saturday.... 


***Interesting Note: Many mountain farmers and mountain restaurants in Central Switzerland are dependent on cableways to transport their cargo. In Canton Nidwalden there are over 40 such cableways that have also been approved for public use and the farmers have created an organization to support each other with the upkeep of these small cable-ways. It is a huge investment and requires lots of funds and administration. We like to support them.



Weather forecast: Sunny with cloudless skies everywhere.... except where we were going of course. The lake I want to see is up on that high plateau on the left....

In the village of Oberrickenbach, at the small farmer's cable car station, we discovered this "cupboard" that when you opened it, you found all kinds of neat homemade stuff, made by the local farmers. We bought smoked sausages. (All on honour principle)

The first of three privately-owned cable cars we tried out this day. You have to phone up to the farmstead to have them start the cable car. Turned out one of the farmers had just come down, probably to go shopping. She had a car parked here. All the other hikers who were in our bus went up with the modern cablecar, top left.

Heading up to the first farmstead where we had to change to another cargo car

This is the middle station where we changed to the other cable car. The farmer who owns the cable car is here to run the motor and collect the cash! And chat about where we came from. Compared to the modern cable cars, this one cost about half.  

Below is the farm. They own the cable car but it has been approved by the Canton for public transport. I've ridden this one three times. I love it.

Shortly after leaving the cable car (which just simply ends on a metal frame mounted in the middle of the hillside) we came across this mountain dairy where you can buy cheese and have something to drink. And play with the Jack Russell Terrier. And get checked out by the cows. 

Our hike, which had a good deal of uphill to it. The regular trail "Walenpfad" actually starts at the lake (top of one of the two regular cableways) and continues South to Engelberg.


Heading up from the dairy toward the Bannalpsee. Below is Oberrickenbach where we started, and beyond that is the Engelberg Valley. 


I was hoping the clouds would dissipate, but they never quite did. Looks cool though. And the uphill was easy to do because it wasn't hot.

Behind the little house is the lake, and the rest of our hike is basically across the middle of this photo from the left to the highest point on the right.

But first and most important is to find a restaurant that serves French Fries! It wasn't this one. Too small.

Ah, the fries, and a slight touch of sunshine!

This Baby can't have been more than a day or two old!

Finally, a glimpse of the lake.

We didn't go down to the lake, but continued along the slope to the South, and up to the saddle ahead.

More of the Lake. This is what I came to see.

Lake Bannalpsee Panorama

Looking backwards at the progress we made.

Not quite sure what this would be. There is another mountain restaurant here. Their specialty was goat's cheese.

Another progress shot. Parkes is probably thinking "enough with the hugging".

This is the view I came to see today. Last time we were here, everything below the upper farmhouse was in fog. On this photo, at the back slightly left is the restaurant where we ate fries.

A beautiful trail, but very popular

Can't beat this for a fantastic landscape

The trail continues along this steep slope to the highest point on the right

Beautiful Central Switzerland. Looking to the North toward Lake Lucerne

Looking down at the village of Oberrickenbach

It was while setting up my camera for this self-timed shot that I got zapped by an electrified wire hidden behind the wooden posts. I actually dropped the camera, but caught it quickly.

A different kind of fence crossing

Heading back down toward the Engelberg Valley, we at least hoped to see some Chamois or Ibex here in this wonderfully convoluted rock-work, but no luck.

They definitely wear toupées.

And this was the ride of a lifetime. Not sure how thrilled Parkes really was! It was very steep, and the hanging cables certainly didn't inspire any confidence. I doubt many people use this, and I think the farmer who owns it was rather surprised when we called him to book our descent....

Heading steep down to the bottom of the Engelberg Valley to Grafenort, where we will take the train back to Lucerne and home.

The little collection of buildings in Grafenort includes a baroque chapel (1689) and a manor house built in 1690 as a vacation getaway for monks and nuns....



Whereas most people take the cable car straight up to the lake, and then walk to the cablecar above Engelberg, we took the "farmers' specials" and hiked up to the lake. We were the only ones. 


Very center of Switzerland for this outing.





No comments: