September 3, 2017

Two Days at Lake Como in Italy


September 3&4, 2017 -- First week of September we took some days off work for hiking, but the weather didn't play along for us this time. With a recent cold front that brought snow and cold weather to low altitudes we opted for a warmer climate at Lake Como, in Italy.

Now, my blog is called "Hiking in Switzerland", so the hikes we did at Lake Como don't really qualify as hikes in Switzerland, but since the city of Como and the Southern part of the lake are only 5 km from the Swiss border, I am including the account of our trip here.

We had read a couple of things about Lake Como: 1. That the village of Varenna on the eastern shore across from Bellagio is one of the prettiest villages on the lake, 2. That Bellagio is a city where you can possibly run into George Clooney (not in the least interesting to us) and 3. That George's summer Villa is in Laglio on the lake, just 13 km North of Como.

So we arranged for an interesting and well-priced Air BnB accommodation in a 17th Century Villa near Menaggio (actually, in Barna, an hour's hike from the lake) and took a 3-hour boat ride on the lake, admiring the beautiful villas and villages along the way (and because I take so many pictures, turned out I did photograph George Clooney's Summer Villa). .... (read on below...)

In 3 hours from our front door we can be in Como... from there 2+ hour boat ride to Varenna...

In Como, we first had to walk 1 km from the train station to the boat docks

All along the lake, pretty villages such as Torno

This is George Clooney's Villa (Villa Oleandra, it's on Google maps) in Laglio.

Other stunning lakefront villas

This could be the Ligurian Coast of Italy, except it's sweet water, and not the Mediterranean.

Those peaks should not yet have snow. The cold weather early September is unusual.

It was a very pleasant day for a boat ride on Lake Como (the boat was empty after everyone descended in Bellagio).

We skipped visiting Bellagio, and had lunch (pizza) and gelato (of course) in the truly picturesque village of Varenna (unfortunately on this beautiful Sunday afternoon, likewise beloved by Americans and Italians vacationing in the area), but never mind, it was a lovely stop. Reminded me so very much of Cinque Terre, I could almost picture myself on the Ligurian Coast. .... (read on below...)

Approaching the boat dock North of Varenna
In Varenna, Italy. We had lunch on a lakefront terrace.
 
In Varenna, Lake Como, Italy

The narrow steep alleyways of Varenna
There were cushions on the stairs in the alley next to the gelato shop, especially for their patrons
 
Heading back to the boat docks. Lots of people coming and going along this lake promenade.

From Varenna, another short boat ride back to the West side of the lake to Menaggio, and then an hour's hike to Barna, where our lovely hosts Gabriella and Nicola were waiting for us. We loved our stay at their home (built in 1661) which they are renovating, with the large sunny room, the old painted wood ceilings, the huge stone fireplaces, and a restful sleep, even though I'd just found a scorpion in the shower.... (read on below...)

As we approached Menaggio, we saw a church high on the cliff and decided that this is where we wanted to hike to the next day.

A quick walk around the lakeside village of Menaggio before walking an hour to the village of Barna

In Menaggio, Lake Como, Italy
We hiked the 4 km up to the village of Barna in just over an hour

On the way up to Barna, a view of Bellagio on the isthmus on Lake Como

This lovely house we saw as we entered the small plaza in front of Villa "Le Bucoliche"

In front of our beautiful accommodation in Barna, Italy
Some lovely details of this villa, dating from 1661. On the left, our bedroom door.
 
Villa Le Bucoliche in Barna, and our lovely hosts Gabriella and Nicola

*** Interesting bit of information. In this area of Northern Italy and Southern Switzerland there are SCORPIONS! Yes, scorpions, although their sting is similar to that of a wasp. Still, a bit of a shock to find one in the shower, the first time I've ever seen one! It's a bit like when a big hairy spider crawls out of the drain....

Next morning, we climbed up to a nearby church we had seen from the boat the day before, built along a steep cliff, with a wonderful view down both Southern branches of the lake. The sky was overcast and the air a bit humid, but it was worth the climb anyway. .... (read on below...)

Our hike to and from Chiesa San Martino was 4 km but required an ascent of 450m !

There it is, Chiesa San Martino high up on the cliff face!

Starting on our hike up to the Church, San Martino, with great expectations of fantastic views!

Unfortunately that castle below is private property, so we could not walk through their grounds

It was very overcast, but we still got a nice view from up here
After returning to the lake we had about 30 mins. till the bus came, so I sat at the lake amazed at how much this reminded me of Cinque Terre.. and my husband brought me a little macchiato from the lakeside snack bar!!
 
We lucked out with our bus and train connections, taking a hair-raising bus ride from Menaggio along Lake Lugano (the bus driver slowed down considerably after he crossed the Swiss Border, it was VERY noticeable). We were back home in just over three hours! ....  

Back in Lugano, this is Monte San Salvatore. We hiked over this mountain earlier this year.



1 comment:

anon23 said...

I just received the Kompass Lake Como map, and it looks very tempting for hikes, and we also have the Lake Maggiore map and the Cicerone Italian lakes guide book. We've only ever been to S Italy, but are planning a camping trip to the lakes of up to 7 weeks in the next few years. Thanks for the article.