September 30, 2017

Alpine Cattle Descent at Lake Klöntal

September 30, 2017 -- Sometime in mid-Autumn the cows that spent the summer in the higher alpine elevations have to be returned to their winter barns in the lower valleys before the snows come. To celebrate a successful summer of alpine grazing, the farmers decorate their cows with wreaths of flowers and flags, and lead them on processions, sometimes 10 km distance, down the mountains. This tradition has become a popular spectacle for non-farmers as well, and there are a myriad of such alpine processions all over Switzerland.

On this Saturday we took our friends Jeff and Carrie from USA to view such a procession at the beautiful Klöntal Lake in Canton Glarus. According to the schedule, the first set of cows was to reach the lake at 10 a.m., at the same time as the bus brought its load of spectators up from Glarus. But the cows were early and the bus driver had to stop on the side of the road to let them through. We all got off the bus to watch the first procession, which was great! The next two herds we watched with the beautiful fall backdrop of the lake, and the final one on the way down as we hiked through the forest.

This is an experience difficult to describe, as the clang of hundreds of cowbells resonates around the valley long before the cows (sometimes accompanied by goats as well) come into view, and once they do, their momentum is such that they cannot be stopped as they flow past and on into the valley. And if you happen to be traveling the same road by bus and catch up to the procession, the bus driver simply informs you that you might as well forget about your train connection when you get back into the valley.

These celebrations usually also involve traditional alphorn music, sometimes yodeling, and farmers selling their wares, in particular the cheeses produced in the alps during the summer. 

Our day ended with a tour of the city of Rapperswil on our way back home, with its lovely old town and castle. As per weather forecast, the rain held off till 5 pm, so it was quite a successful day.


Our excursion started in the city of Glarus, where we had 30 minutes to wait for the bus.

On the way up to the lake, the bus had to pull over because the first set of cows were already on the way down.

As we got to the lake, we could hear the sound of the hundreds of cow bells at the back of the valley

Here comes the next family with their animals on the way to the valley

The pretty headdresses are a tradition of thankfulness for a successful summer on the high alps

The lead cows wear larger bells. It is just for show, they wear smaller ones when they are in the meadow

And the babies are always so pretty, you just want to hug them.

Heading to the end of the lake to continue down into the valley
The celebrations also involve traditional Alp Horn music and markets selling local products

As we walked down the valley parallel to the road, we got to see another group of animals head down to the valley

Another farmer family with their animals coming down from the mountain alps

Another farmer family with their animals coming down from the mountain alps

The walk we had planned was about an hour along the river. We were lucky that the bus driver stopped for us shortly before the official bus stop (unusual exception) as the next bus wasn't for another three hours!
We had actually hoped to walk to this bridge, but had to view it from inside the crowded bus.

Back down in the Linthal Valley we spent a bit of time in Näfels, the actual end point of the cow processions.

Some of these cows have such unusual markings, nothing like I've ever seen before
Näfels in the Linthal Valley near Glarus
   
Before heading home we stopped to walk around old town Rapperswil, always work a visit.
View from the castle at Rapperswil on Lake Zurich

Last stop for coffee with friends in Rapperswil, Switzerland. The day turned out much better than expected.



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