October 25, 2020

Glaubenberg Moorlands: Hike between the Glaubenberg and Glaubenbielen Passes

Sunday October 25th -- This time we had a successful day with wonderful weather and a great choice for our hike, high above the Sarnen Valley near Luzern, and on the border of the Entlebuch Region which is in Canton Luzern.

The 13km stretch between the Glaubenberg and Glaubenbielen Passes is part of Stage 2 of the Obwalden High Trail, and a hike we have wanted to do since hiking the other part from the Brienzer Rothorn to the Glaubenbielen Pass from the South a year ago. Buses don't run often to these two passes -- in fact, the bus driver told us that usually they run only till mid-October, but this year they extended till end of October as an exception. So that worked out perfectly for us. Also the timing of the buses, which run only 3-4 times per day, fitted in nicely for this approx. 4.5-hour non-strenuous hike.

As we climbed up from the Glaubenberg Pass parking lot to the first ridge from where we would head South, we were quite astonished by the large number of people heading up the same way, and breathed a sigh of relief when we realized these were people who came by car and were doing a loop hike to a nearby view mountain called Fürstein. We had actually toyed with that idea as well, but postponed it to a time with drier weather, as we had heard the trail can be slippery. Good choice, as barely anyone did the hike southward. 

But being as this is a huge upper moorland, we had a very wet trail none-the-less, lots of little streams seeking out the trail, lots of very wet and peaty ground. In fact, the region stretches from Mt.Pilatus all the way to the Glaubenbielen Pass, and with its 130 km2 is the largest moor landscape in Switzerland. But the walk was easy and interesting and most of all we had clear and wonderful views of the Bernese Alps to the South, and even better views of the Central Alps to the East. Definitely a successful hike!

Heading up from the Glaubenberg Pass across wet moorland

Near the ridge. Here we get a little peek of Larke Sarnersee, which actually has fog over it. Behind on the left is Mt. Pilatus (to the North).

On the ridge we admire Mt. Fürstein, and debate if we shouldn't have done this hike today instead (600m uphill, which would be tough if the trail is wet). We'll wait for a dry summer.
People were coming from all directions, various trails leading here from the Glaubenberg Pass parking lot. They are all going to walk up to Mt. Fürstein.


In the background is the ridge you have to walk to get to the peak of Mt. Fürstein. Our hike today takes us along Trail no.57: Obwaldner Höhenweg, with another 3 hours to go till we get to the Glaubenbielen Pass

Such a fantastic view to the Southwest, across the lower moorland, the Schrattenflue massif on the right, and what might be the white-capped Valais Alps at the very back.

Close-up of the lovely moorland below us

Our trail takes us across the plateau up ahead, and then down behind it to the Sattel Pass. In the back, once again, is the distinctive North Face of Mt. Eiger.

It's always a thrill when we get to see the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau trio of mountains so well!

Crossing the upper plateau. A look behind us to Mt. Pilatus on the left, and Mt Stanserhorn and Lake Sarnersee on the right.View is so clear we can even see all the way to the Alpstein Massif in Eastern Switzerland (back center)

Zoomed view to the East to the lovely Stein Glacier near the Susten Pass. Today the weather South of the Alps is not as nice, as you can tell by the clouds pressing over the mountains from the South.

We discovered here a peak which would also be fun to cross some time. But we are headed South. Next Stop: Sattel Pass

Not quite sure why there are a few gondola cabins parked along the way.... ahead are marked a couple of the sections we crossed to get to our destination.

Had to get a photo in the gondola car!

Much of the stretch was on wet trails like this! We had to keep finding ways around the water (diffictult, because even the terrain away from the trail is wet!)

A particularly pretty Fly Agaric

Directly to the East is Mt. Titlis. The forests make this look like Canada.

Walking on Regional Trail no.47: Obwaldner Höhenweg, from Glaubenberg to Glaubenbielen via Loo!

Heading toward the Sattel Pass, from where you can descend to Flühli in the Entlebuch

A small farm at the Sattel Pass. This is Canton Obwalden, but the owner is a proud citizen of Canton Uri! In the background is the Schrattenflue ridge

Finding the perfect place for a picnic lunch

Balmy and sunny day, perfect place for a picnic lunch

Another look to the East to the Uri Alps

Close-up photo of the mountains near the Susten Pass. The weather is not so great today in Andermatt!

After the Sattel Pass and past the alpine pasture called Loo, a long wet downhill section made it hard for mountain bikers, who were told that it would be no issue to ride here!

An extensive series of gravel paths has been built over this terrain. It was so much easier to walk here!

We're getting closer to our destination, past the small green clearings upper right.

And how lovely, the first views of Lake Sarnersee on its South end! Behind me on the left is Mt. Stanserhorn.

A very close-up view of Mt. Titlis, not recognizable from this perspective. You can see the cable car and weather station at the top. There is year-round skiing here.
The arrow at the back is where we crossed behind the Giswilerstock massif in 2017, when we approached the Glaubenbielen Pass from the South

The rest of our trail from here to the Glaubenbielen Pass is on the wide forestry road, also wet, but not marshy!


Close to our destination

More snow-capped peaks


Behind this farm is a ridge which we plan to hike across next year



These were once some very juicy porcini mushrooms, it's surprising they were allowed to get this old. These are much sought-after mushrooms!

A final look to the North: Lake Sarnersee, Mt. Stanserhorn, Mt. Rigi

This was an unusual sight: With so few planes flying in the past months, we got used to NOT seeing these contrails.

And a final look back across 13 km of the Glaubenberg Moorlands, to the place where we started our hike!

13 km, approx 4 hours 30 minutes of walking, from Pass to Pass. Both roads from Entlebuch (Luzern) in the West and Sarnen Valley (Obwalden) in the East are called Panorama Roads. It's a special treat to ride these bus lines.

In 2019 we walked from the summit of Brienzer Rothorn to Glaubenbielen Pass. This time we walked between the two passes.

Here is a link to the photos of the hike we did in 2019, from Brienzer Rothorn to Glaubenbielen -->

CLICK HERE


October 21, 2020

A Hike to the Highest Peak in Canton Zurich: Mt. Schnebelhorn

Wednesday Oct.21 -- The highest mountain in Canton Zurich, Mount Schnebelhorn (1292m) lies in the Toggenburg region on the Canton border with St.Gallen (Eastern Switzerland). Weather forecast promised us sunshine, but I wonder if they are no longer able to predict the weather so well, now that fewer airplanes are flying....

The rolling hills of the Toggenburg are lovely for hiking, but rather hard for us to get into because there is not much access with public transport. The closest bus stop for us required switching to a smaller bus-van and paying a supplement. But no matter, as it was then only two hours and 15 minutes through mostly forest to reach the top of Mount Schnebelhorn (a popular destination even on a week-day). The forests were a wonderful pallette of autumn colours at the moment, but unfortunately the little sunshine we had at the start of our walk was gone by the time we got to the summit, so those colours just didn't shine as I'd hoped they would. 

A Föhn window over the Alps at least gave us a sweeping view of the peaks, but the lighting just wasn't ideal for the type of camera I use.

After following the crest for a while, we descended to a tiny village called Libingen, which was the closest option for another bus. So with the goal of reaching the highest peak in Canton Zurich, the shortest stretch we can walk was 12 km and 4 hours. This, by the way, is along a section of the Toggenburger High Trail, of which we have done a couple of other stretches as well.

The lack of sunshine was a real disappointment, as you really can see far to the North to Lake Constance, to the East to Mount Säntis, to the South from the Glarner Alps to the Bernese Alps, and of course to the mountains near where we live, because this is only about 40 km from home (as the crow flies)...


A regular bus takes us through the Toggenburg landscape to where we have to change to a small van-bus 

From here at Mühlrüti, a connecting bus takes you up a very narrow road (made narrower by construction work going on for two years already!). It's the same bus driver. We had to wait here for him while he "swapped" buses!

There were four of us who wanted to go to the "end of the line" (Hulftegg). We had to pay a supplement, which is fine to save us some walking! The bus driver was stressed, though. He had to get back here to run the other bus down the hill again.

More of the pretty Toggenburger landscape

Starting at Hulftegg, it took 2 hrs 15 minutes to the top of Mt. Schnebelhorn. Then we walked down to the town of Libingen to catch the bus there. Total over four hours of walking

Trail no. 48 is the "Toggenburger Höhenweg" and Trail no. 69 is the "Züri Oberland Höhenweg" (Toggenburger and Zurich Oberhand High Trails). We started at Hulftegg, walking to Schnebelhorn and Libingen

At the start of our hike, we had some sunshine, so it was pleasant to walk.

A lot of the trail was through forest, but it is nice when the sun shines and when there are lots of colours

As we are not far from Central Switzerland here, we can see Mt. Rigi and Pilatus. The Tower is a look-out tower called Bachtel. Lake Zurich is in between

Heading up to Mt. Schnebelhorn, although the peak is behind this hill, so the climb isn't finished yet!

Beautiful forests, lovely colours

This view is to the North. We could even see Lake Constance

Looking back along the trail as we head up to Mt. Schnebelhorn. For at least half the hike we walked along the Canton border: Zurich to the West (left on this picture), St.Gallen to the East.

Made it to the peak! There were about 20 other people up here, so we didn't stay long

The highest peak in Canton Zurich: Mt. Schnebelhorn. This is actually also on the border of Canton St.Gallen.

A view to the East to Mt. Säntis, the highest peak in the Alpstein Massif


The sky was very overcast by the time we got to the peak of Mt. Schnebelhorn, but the Alps were very clearly visible

Below you can just see Lake Zurich, and a Föhn window gives us a clear view of the Alps. Too bad the sky is so overcast.

It is always a thrill to see the Bernese Alps, with the distinctive triangle of the Eiger North Face, and otherwise the highest peaks of the Bernese Alps.

We took a detour off the official trail, which is below us, to walk along a crest.

As we walk along the crest high above the official trail, we get some nice views across the landscape of the Zurich Oberland

A view to the Glarner Alps in the Southeast (the colour seems to be missing from this photo!)

Splendid colours in this forest. It would look so much better with sunshine!

The colours were much more intense off-camera!

Heading downhill now toward Libingen, a good place to have a coffee break and enjoy another view of Mt.Säntis.

A large downhill section through the forest

Up ahead is the little town of Libingen. That is the final bus stop for a different bus line. The closest bus stop for us after leaving Mt. Schnebelhorn

Little town of Libingen in the Toggenburg Region, Canton St.Gallen

End of our hike in Libingen, where we caught the bus and train back home (2 hrs 15 minutes to travel, so not too far).

Here is what the trail looks like on Google Earth Maps