Glaubenberg Pass to Flühli (Sörenberg) via Summit of Mt. Fürstein

(Blog post published on November 25, 2022)

Thursday October 27, 2022 -- Usually Wednesday is the weekday where we do a hike, but this week the weather forecast for Thursday was to be the best day this week, another fabulous day in this warmest month of October ever.... so Urs swapped his day off. It was a good choice, as it truly was one of the most fantastic days.

We did a hike we have wanted to do for a long time, a very long hike not far from home, starting at the Glaubenberg Pass in Canton Nidwalden just south of Luzern, and hiking over the border into the Entlebuch (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) region of Canton Luzern, near Sörenberg. The hike was over five hours of walking, and included a hike to the summit of the local view mountain Fürstein (and WHAT a view!!!) as well as a bit of a tricky descent down its steep west side: Shady, cold and slippery at this time of year, something we didn't anticipate.

After the successful albeit time-consuming descent off the mountain, the rest of the downhill portion was easy, although the trail through the forest toward what is called the Chessiloch seemed neverending. Chessiloch is Swiss-German for "Kessel Loch" or "Kettle Hole", a magnificent huge pit created over thousands of years by the waterfall dropping here. It was well worth the ca. 20-minute detour in the otherwise already lengthy hike. But the weather was balmy and there was so much variety that we considered this one of our more successful hikes among so many.

The final section out of the Kragen Valley to the village of Flühli passed through the area that was once the original glass-manufacturing region of Switzerland, the art of glass-blowing having been brought here by two brothers from the Black Forest in 1723. "Glass huts" were built in heavily forested regions, and once the woods had totally been decimated for heating material, the huts were moved to other locations. 

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This day was like two separate hikes / excursions. The first part was the climb to the top of Mt.Fürstein and down the other side:

After a long bus ride through the lovely Entlebuch Region of Luzern, we reached the Glaubenberg Pass at 9 a.m., very early in the day for October! The 570m ascent to the summit of Mt. Fürstein took two hours. 

The first fantastic views of the Bernese Alps to the south as we ascend toward the first hill called Rickhubel. 

A zoomed view of the Eiger North Face in the Bernese Alps to the south

Approaching the peak called Rickhubel, 400m higher than where we started. This section took just a little over an hour. Much of the trail up was wet and peaty.

The view into the Entlebuch (specifically the Schrattenfluh Massif in the center) from Rickhubel. 

From Rickhubel we had a long level stretch, but at many places soft and wet, as this is a moor landscape. The summit of Mt. Fürstein is there at the arrow. 

A look back as we climb the final steep section. In the background center is Mt. Pilatus 

I had to make lots of stops on this last steep section!

Finally made it to the top! Air quality is superb, we can see all the way to Germany to the north!

Looking south along the ridge to the Bernese Alps, and the Entlebuch region on the right. This ridge is the Canton border between Nidwalden on the left and Luzern on the right. Later we will be descending the valley on the right. 

A well-deserved break!

The eastern Alps! Most of the people who make this ascend descend back to the Glaubenberg Pass via that lake below. But we are descending to the west. 

Another closer-up view of the mountains to the South. 

And this view is to the west. That massif is called the Schwändiliflue. Our trail took us past the little lake directly below, just showing out of the shadow of the mountain. 

Time to continue on down the mountain to the west! It is now 11:30, relatively early in the day, so we knew we had lots of time to do the rest of this 5-hour hike!

The stile was steep, as was the mountainside, so we had to be very careful crossing the fence here.

In all this was a hike of more than 5 hours. Starting at the Glaubenberg Pass, it took us about two hours to get to the summit of Mt. Fürstein, another 2.5 hours to descend to the suspension bridge at the Chessiloch, and then another hour to the bus stop in Flühli. Total 5-1/2 hours. 

The slope on this side was steeper than we expected, so we had to go slowly and carefully. 

Making our way slowly down the steep, shady and cold west side of Mt. Fürstein!

Warming up in a bit of sunshine and the fantastic view below!

The descent is now behind us, and here is a good place for a 20-minute break for lunch! (Mt.Fürstein in the background)

The view from our picnic bench at the cross. We still have a long descent from here, past the two buildings below. 

Another zoomed view of the fabulour peaks of the Bernese Alps. 

A final look up the "valley" which we came down, before continuing into the forest and ravine below. 

The second part of our long hike was a seemingly never-ending 330-m (40 minutes) descent to the suspension bridge in the ravine, from where we did a 20-minute detour to the waterfall in the "Chessiloch" or "Kettle Hole". This has been an attraction for a long time, and to make the waterfall more accessible, a bridge was built over the river at the very back of the ravine, a bridge that had to be replaced several times due to flooding.

A 40-minute descent through the forest into the ravine

Suspension bridge over the ravine

Heading to the back of the ravine, to see the "Chessiloch"

It's 4:30 p.m. by now and pretty shady in the ravine

A bridge was specially built over the river at the back of the ravine so that people can get closer to the waterfall. 

VIDEO:

Making his way to the waterfall

The waterfall which carved out this deep ravine called "Chessiloch"

VIDEO:

The waterfall at the back of the Chessiloch

The photo doesn't capture how high the walls of the "hole" were.

Heading back out of the ravine

Heading out of the ravine

The final hour of the hike was out of the Kragen Valley and southwards to the village of Flühli, the end of our hike. This whole region is where the art/science of glass-manufacture began in Switzerland, having been brought here in 1723 by two brothers from the Black Forest in Germany. After all the forests here were decimated for the wood required to manufacture the glass, the industry was moved to Hergiswil on Lake Luzern, where there is still a glass factory.

Heading along the hillside now toward the village of Flühli

A final sunny section along a good mountain trail

 A look up the valley toward Sörenberg and the Brienzer Rothorn ridge. This region is part of the beautiful Unesco Biosphere Entlebuch. 

End of October and the farmers are still hard at work harvesting the grass for winter feed. 

The village of Flühli, end of our 5.5-hour hike. 

Those peaks are part of the Schwändiliflue massif. We descended the valley on the other side of that massif

What a nice way to make a pig farm more attractive!

The "Hotel & Kurhaus Flühli", which used to be a wellness center

What our 14-km hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, starting at the Glaubenberg Pass and ending in Flühli. 

And the scenery for the bus ride back out of the valley was quite impressive as well:

The long stretched-out "Flue" to the east as the bus makes its way out the valley to Schüpfheim

Location of this part of the Entlebuch in Switzerland

All the hikes we have done in the Entlebuch and Nidwalden region to date

Glaubenberg Moorlands: Hike between the Glaubenberg and Glaubenbielen Passes

Sunday October 25th -- This time we had a successful day with wonderful weather and a great choice for our hike, high above the Sarnen Valley near Luzern, and on the border of the Entlebuch Region which is in Canton Luzern.

The 13km stretch between the Glaubenberg and Glaubenbielen Passes is part of Stage 2 of the Obwalden High Trail, and a hike we have wanted to do since hiking the other part from the Brienzer Rothorn to the Glaubenbielen Pass from the South a year ago. Buses don't run often to these two passes -- in fact, the bus driver told us that usually they run only till mid-October, but this year they extended till end of October as an exception. So that worked out perfectly for us. Also the timing of the buses, which run only 3-4 times per day, fitted in nicely for this approx. 4.5-hour non-strenuous hike.

As we climbed up from the Glaubenberg Pass parking lot to the first ridge from where we would head South, we were quite astonished by the large number of people heading up the same way, and breathed a sigh of relief when we realized these were people who came by car and were doing a loop hike to a nearby view mountain called Fürstein. We had actually toyed with that idea as well, but postponed it to a time with drier weather, as we had heard the trail can be slippery. Good choice, as barely anyone did the hike southward. 

But being as this is a huge upper moorland, we had a very wet trail none-the-less, lots of little streams seeking out the trail, lots of very wet and peaty ground. In fact, the region stretches from Mt.Pilatus all the way to the Glaubenbielen Pass, and with its 130 km2 is the largest moor landscape in Switzerland. But the walk was easy and interesting and most of all we had clear and wonderful views of the Bernese Alps to the South, and even better views of the Central Alps to the East. Definitely a successful hike!

Heading up from the Glaubenberg Pass across wet moorland

Near the ridge. Here we get a little peek of Larke Sarnersee, which actually has fog over it. Behind on the left is Mt. Pilatus (to the North).

On the ridge we admire Mt. Fürstein, and debate if we shouldn't have done this hike today instead (600m uphill, which would be tough if the trail is wet). We'll wait for a dry summer.

People were coming from all directions, various trails leading here from the Glaubenberg Pass parking lot. They are all going to walk up to Mt. Fürstein.

In the background is the ridge you have to walk to get to the peak of Mt. Fürstein. Our hike today takes us along Trail no.57: Obwaldner Höhenweg, with another 3 hours to go till we get to the Glaubenbielen Pass

Such a fantastic view to the Southwest, across the lower moorland, the Schrattenflue massif on the right, and what might be the white-capped Valais Alps at the very back.

Close-up of the lovely moorland below us

Our trail takes us across the plateau up ahead, and then down behind it to the Sattel Pass. In the back, once again, is the distinctive North Face of Mt. Eiger.

It's always a thrill when we get to see the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau trio of mountains so well!

Crossing the upper plateau. A look behind us to Mt. Pilatus on the left, and Mt Stanserhorn and Lake Sarnersee on the right.View is so clear we can even see all the way to the Alpstein Massif in Eastern Switzerland (back center)

Zoomed view to the East to the lovely Stein Glacier near the Susten Pass. Today the weather South of the Alps is not as nice, as you can tell by the clouds pressing over the mountains from the South.

We discovered here a peak which would also be fun to cross some time. But we are headed South. Next Stop: Sattel Pass

Not quite sure why there are a few gondola cabins parked along the way.... ahead are marked a couple of the sections we crossed to get to our destination.

Had to get a photo in the gondola car!

Much of the stretch was on wet trails like this! We had to keep finding ways around the water (diffictult, because even the terrain away from the trail is wet!)

A particularly pretty Fly Agaric

Directly to the East is Mt. Titlis. The forests make this look like Canada.

Walking on Regional Trail no.47: Obwaldner Höhenweg, from Glaubenberg to Glaubenbielen via Loo!

Heading toward the Sattel Pass, from where you can descend to Flühli in the Entlebuch

A small farm at the Sattel Pass. This is Canton Obwalden, but the owner is a proud citizen of Canton Uri! In the background is the Schrattenflue ridge

Finding the perfect place for a picnic lunch

Balmy and sunny day, perfect place for a picnic lunch

Another look to the East to the Uri Alps

Close-up photo of the mountains near the Susten Pass. The weather is not so great today in Andermatt!

After the Sattel Pass and past the alpine pasture called Loo, a long wet downhill section made it hard for mountain bikers, who were told that it would be no issue to ride here!

An extensive series of gravel paths has been built over this terrain. It was so much easier to walk here!

We're getting closer to our destination, past the small green clearings upper right.

And how lovely, the first views of Lake Sarnersee on its South end! Behind me on the left is Mt. Stanserhorn.

A very close-up view of Mt. Titlis, not recognizable from this perspective. You can see the cable car and weather station at the top. There is year-round skiing here.

The arrow at the back is where we crossed behind the Giswilerstock massif in 2017, when we approached the Glaubenbielen Pass from the South

The rest of our trail from here to the Glaubenbielen Pass is on the wide forestry road, also wet, but not marshy!

Close to our destination

More snow-capped peaks

Behind this farm is a ridge which we plan to hike across next year

These were once some very juicy porcini mushrooms, it's surprising they were allowed to get this old. These are much sought-after mushrooms!

A final look to the North: Lake Sarnersee, Mt. Stanserhorn, Mt. Rigi

This was an unusual sight: With so few planes flying in the past months, we got used to NOT seeing these contrails.

And a final look back across 13 km of the Glaubenberg Moorlands, to the place where we started our hike!

13 km, approx 4 hours 30 minutes of walking, from Pass to Pass. Both roads from Entlebuch (Luzern) in the West and Sarnen Valley (Obwalden) in the East are called Panorama Roads. It's a special treat to ride these bus lines.

In 2019 we walked from the summit of Brienzer Rothorn to Glaubenbielen Pass. This time we walked between the two passes.

Here is a link to the photos of the hike we did in 2019, from Brienzer Rothorn to Glaubenbielen -->

CLICK HERE