Solo Hike from the Brünig Pass to Lungern (via Meiringen)

(Note: This album was created on January 22, 2021)

Saturday October 13, 2018 -- Urs had a previous engagement this day, but it was an exceedingly beautiful fall day, and I didn't want to miss the opportunity to walk in the colorful countryside, so I headed to one of my favourite places: The Brünig Pass (forms the passage between Canton Obwalden in the North and Canton Bern in the South). 

One of the first hikes I did on my own when I came to Switzerland in 2013 was in this area, namely a round loop hike from the scenic town of Lungern via the Brünig Pass, but this time I wanted to walk only the stretch from the Pass back to Lungern, via the St.James Trail this time, which is an alternate route I had not done before (this is also the old mule trail used by the Romans to cross from the North, and also apparently used in pre-historic times). Most of the trail was unfortunately through forested area with less view than the direct trail, and much was already in the shadow of the hills, but I nevertheless had plenty of sunshine and mild weather, and clear views for this excursion.

Since the walk I had planned was only just over 90 minutes of walking, I didn't get out of the train at the Brünig Pass right away on my way into to the region, but rather continued down on the Bernese side to Meiringen in the Haslital Valley, because there was a special church there I wanted to see (St. Michael's Church, 1684, which has a beautiful wooden ceiling). From Meiringen you take a cable car up to the popular recreational region called Hasliberg, from where a bus takes you back to the Brünig Pass.

Traveling on the train southwards from Luzern through the Sarnen Valley toward the Brünig Pass. At this section of the railway line, right after passing the town of Giswil, the train deploys its cogwheels to start the steep climb toward the pass.

Heading along Lake Lungernsee toward the town of Lungern. This is in Canton Obwalden. The tower in the photo is under monument protection (dated to 1389) and is all that is left of the original village church which was swept away by floods in the 1880's.

After passing over the Brünig Pass, we are now in Canton Bern, and heading down into the Haslital Valley.

Arrived in Meiringen, I walk toward the cable car station, and intend to have a look at this historical church on the way.

St. Michael's church in Meiringen is one of the most spectacular churches in the area and is under federal protection. The current baroque church was built in 1684 but there were several churches built here before then.

Stunning woodwork done by a local carpenter in 1684

After leaving the church, I headed to to the cable car

Admiring the lovely Bernese Chalets

This is the cable car in which I rode up the mountainside to Reuti on the Hasliberg Mountain

More lovely chalets

A fantastic view South into the Rychenbach Valley and Mount Wetterhorn. You can even see the peak of Mt. Eiger from here!

Middle of October and it feels like summer!

Zoomed view of the Rosenlaui Glacier on Mt. Wetterhorn

After a 20-minute bus ride from Reuti (bottom right off the map) I set off from the Brünig Pass along the St. James Trail to Lungern. The hike was about 90 minutes (I got off the trail once by accident and had to back-track)

This stone denotes the border of Canton Bern (the bear) and Canton Obwalden on the other side.

St. James Trail is national Trail no.4. The direct route to Lungern is 1 hour (a trail I've done twice before) and the path following Trail no.4 is somewhat longer

The first part of the trail runs along the railway tracks

The train of the "Zentral Bahn" ("Central Switzerland Railway Line") heading from Luzern to Interlaken. It's fun to walk next to the railway track

At this spot I found a nice bench where I had my picnic lunch and enjoyed the sunshine and cowbells

The cows are still in the fields and the grass is still green

From here there are two paths to the town of Lungern. The trail to the right is about 10 minutes quicker to the outskirts of the town. But the trail on the left, part of the St. James Trail, is also the original old Roman trail used to cross the pass from the North.

Archeological findings on this old mule trail indicate that the trail has been in use since pre-historic times.

The "St.James Trail" (or Jakobsweg) through Switzerland is part of the popular "Camino de Santiago", a pilgrimage trail composed of a network of trails (total approx 780 km) all over Europe and culminating at the Spanish town of "Santiago de Compostela". Along the way you can sign up in trail books kept in such boxes.

Along the St.James Trail between Brünig Pass and Lungern

Some curious cows along the way

Arrived in the town of Lungern. This magnificent cathedral is rather "young", having been built as recently as 1891/93 in the neo-gothic style of architecture, and replacing the original late-romantic church which was swept away by floods in the 1880's (there remains only the 1389 tower which is under monument protection)

A rather pretty structure

Another view of the parish church in late afternoon sunlight as I head up to the train station in Lungern.

The just under 6 km hike I did this day is in orange, starting at the Brünig Pass and descending to Lungern. On two other occasions (yellow = 2013 and blue =2014) we did a loop hike starting in Lungern, climbing the hills to the West, and then descending via the Brünig Pass.

 

Braunwald to Urnerboden Valley (Kanton Border Glarus/Uri)

Wednesday October 10 -- The perfect hiking weather is continuing day after day, so off we go again under forecast of balmy temperatures but wind in the Alps. As it turns out, we ended up TOO close to the Alps, where clouds hung low just over the highest peaks (to our North the cloudless blue skies) and the winds were cold which was unexpected when we have Fön winds.

But still, plenty to stir the senses as we made our way from Braunwald in Canton Glarus to the Canton Border in the Urnerboden Valley in Kanton Uri: The vertical cliff faces that accompanied us on the entire 4-hour hike, the everpresent stunning peak of Mount Ortstock (2717m), the unexpected sensational views into the Linthal and Urnerboden Valleys from the rather unassuming peak called Rietstöckli (a small cone-shaped hill covered with avalanche supports requiring 5000m of steel.... to prevent accumulation of winter snow), pleasant and not difficult hiking trails, and a small dairy farm offering self-serve refreshments (and cheese of course) on a lovely terrace supplied with picnic tables and umbrellas (and since we were the only people far and wide, nobody smoking!!!)

To finish off the day, a Postbus ride back home via the Klausen Pass and the Schächental valley, our favourite mountain pass... although I ended up falling asleep on this 100-minute bus ride!

As we rode the gondola cable car from Braunwald to a point higher on the hillside (to save 250m of uphill walking) we got a good view South of the area we would be walking (above the cliffs) to the point on the left called Rietstöckli, from where we got a great view into the next valley: Urnerboden.

Cable car ride from Braunwald lower village to Grotzenbühl, where we started the hike

Braunwald has been the starting point for 6 hikes for us in the last five years (blue one we did twice). This time it was the 11-km (orange) trail to the Urnerboden Valley.

Another view South, this time including the peak of Mount Tödi, which usually dominates the skyline here but today was quickly covered by the thick clouds that settled on the Alps this day

Upper alpine pasture called "Ober Stafel". Past the woods behind it we were expecting a lake, according to the map and trail descriptions

It's been a long dry summer this year, and here the effect is pronounced: The lake (Bergetenseeli) is totally dried out

We decided that next year, we will hike up to the next  ridge, then over the saddle (where there is currently snow) into the next upper valley: Glattalp

These stone towers that we saw from the cable car are called "Teufel's Chilchli", which means "Devil's Church". Not a pretty name!

No matter that the clouds covered the sun once in a while, we still had stunning views, this one North along the Linthal Valley and Braunwald on the hillside, where we started

To the East, this area is called the "Tectonic Arena Sardona" (Glarus Thrust), a UNESCO World Heritage Site

We had our lunch here, at the foot of Mount Orststock, looking down at the upland moor valley, and looking for Ibex in the cliffs (didn't see any)

One last little section to the peak called Rietstock, so many avalanche structures in this one place. 5000m of steel were apparently necessary for these structures, although many are also made of wood. The reason for this effort is that the cantons wanted to keep the Urnerboden Valley accessible during the winter, but this section is right at the entrance to the valley, and avalanches continually blocked the road.

The avalanche structures are actually almost works of art

From the peak of the Rietstöckli, this unexpected view into the Urnertal Valley, all the way to the Klausen Pass at the back. The goal of our hike is the curved road below, from where we caught the bus up and over the pass

Where there is the possibility of food, there are Alpine Choughs. 

Our trail took us through the avalanche fences, and down the cliff ahead.

Before descending, a look up to the peak of Mount Ortstock

At first it looked steep, but the zigzag trail had just the right slope to make for a comfortable descent. We assume the farmers use this trail to bring their cows up to the higher pastures in summer.

From below, just a few of the many avalanche fences on this peak.

Heading into the Urnerboden Valley, the entire valley is enclosed by these beautiful cliffs.

A comfortable road takes us to Urnerboden, which, by the way, is the largest alpine pasture in Switzerland, and 1200 cows spend the summer up here.

Always happy to be able to fill up our water bottles!

We came across this cheese dairy (owners are not up here any more), still offering refreshments (self-serve) out of a fridge that they seem to need to tie down. I was thrilled about the cute little terrace!

So lovely to enjoy refreshments on our own alpine terrace without any other people around! (there is ALWAYS someone smoking!)

Last view across Urnerboden Valley to the Klausen Pass, before descending to the road.

At the road we are at the border of Cantons Glarus (where we came from) and Uri, which is ahead of us.

Waiting for the bus at the Kanton Border

From the bus heading toward the Klausen Pass, we get a good look backwards to the little peak with the superb views.

On the West side of the Klausen Pass is my favourite view: The stunning cliffs below Mount Schärhorn. We have walked the trail below these cliffs as well.

11 km starting on the hillside above Braunwald, and ending at the Kanton Border (Glarus/Uri). Total walking time: 3 hours 45 minutes, although we were up here for 6 hours.