October 10, 2018

Braunwald to Urnerboden Valley (Kanton Border Glarus/Uri)


Wednesday October 10 -- The perfect hiking weather is continuing day after day, so off we go again under forecast of balmy temperatures but wind in the Alps. As it turns out, we ended up TOO close to the Alps, where clouds hung low just over the highest peaks (to our North the cloudless blue skies) and the winds were cold which was unexpected when we have Fön winds.

But still, plenty to stir the senses as we made our way from Braunwald in Canton Glarus to the Canton Border in the Urnerboden Valley in Kanton Uri: The vertical cliff faces that accompanied us on the entire 4-hour hike, the everpresent stunning peak of Mount Ortstock (2717m), the unexpected sensational views into the Linthal and Urnerboden Valleys from the rather unassuming peak called Rietstöckli (a small cone-shaped hill covered with avalanche supports requiring 5000m of steel.... to prevent accumulation of winter snow), pleasant and not difficult hiking trails, and a small dairy farm offering self-serve refreshments (and cheese of course) on a lovely terrace supplied with picnic tables and umbrellas (and since we were the only people far and wide, nobody smoking!!!)

To finish off the day, a Postbus ride back home via the Klausen Pass and the Schächental valley, our favourite mountain pass... although I ended up falling asleep on this 100-minute bus ride!


As we rode the gondola cable car from Braunwald to a point higher on the hillside (to save 250m of uphill walking) we got a good view South of the area we would be walking (above the cliffs) to the point on the left called Rietstöckli, from where we got a great view into the next valley: Urnerboden.

Cable car ride from Braunwald lower village to Grotzenbühl, where we started the hike
Braunwald has been the starting point for 6 hikes for us in the last five years (blue one we did twice). This time it was the 11-km (orange) trail to the Urnerboden Valley.
Another view South, this time including the peak of Mount Tödi, which usually dominates the skyline here but today was quickly covered by the thick clouds that settled on the Alps this day

Upper alpine pasture called "Ober Stafel". Past the woods behind it we were expecting a lake, according to the map and trail descriptions

It's been a long dry summer this year, and here the effect is pronounced: The lake (Bergetenseeli) is totally dried out

We decided that next year, we will hike up to the next  ridge, then over the saddle (where there is currently snow) into the next upper valley: Glattalp

These stone towers that we saw from the cable car are called "Teufel's Chilchli", which means "Devil's Church". Not a pretty name!

No matter that the clouds covered the sun once in a while, we still had stunning views, this one North along the Linthal Valley and Braunwald on the hillside, where we started

To the East, this area is called the "Tectonic Arena Sardona" (Glarus Thrust), a UNESCO World Heritage Site

We had our lunch here, at the foot of Mount Orststock, looking down at the upland moor valley, and looking for Ibex in the cliffs (didn't see any)

One last little section to the peak called Rietstock, so many avalanche structures in this one place. 5000m of steel were apparently necessary for these structures, although many are also made of wood. The reason for this effort is that the cantons wanted to keep the Urnerboden Valley accessible during the winter, but this section is right at the entrance to the valley, and avalanches continually blocked the road.

The avalanche structures are actually almost works of art

From the peak of the Rietstöckli, this unexpected view into the Urnertal Valley, all the way to the Klausen Pass at the back. The goal of our hike is the curved road below, from where we caught the bus up and over the pass

Where there is the possibility of food, there are Alpine Choughs. 

Our trail took us through the avalanche fences, and down the cliff ahead.

Before descending, a look up to the peak of Mount Ortstock

At first it looked steep, but the zigzag trail had just the right slope to make for a comfortable descent. We assume the farmers use this trail to bring their cows up to the higher pastures in summer.

From below, just a few of the many avalanche fences on this peak.

Heading into the Urnerboden Valley, the entire valley is enclosed by these beautiful cliffs.

A comfortable road takes us to Urnerboden, which, by the way, is the largest alpine pasture in Switzerland, and 1200 cows spend the summer up here.

Always happy to be able to fill up our water bottles!

We came across this cheese dairy (owners are not up here any more), still offering refreshments (self-serve) out of a fridge that they seem to need to tie down. I was thrilled about the cute little terrace!

So lovely to enjoy refreshments on our own alpine terrace without any other people around! (there is ALWAYS someone smoking!)

Last view across Urnerboden Valley to the Klausen Pass, before descending to the road.

At the road we are at the border of Cantons Glarus (where we came from) and Uri, which is ahead of us.

Waiting for the bus at the Kanton Border

From the bus heading toward the Klausen Pass, we get a good look backwards to the little peak with the superb views.

On the West side of the Klausen Pass is my favourite view: The stunning cliffs below Mount Schärhorn. We have walked the trail below these cliffs as well.

11 km starting on the hillside above Braunwald, and ending at the Kanton Border (Glarus/Uri). Total walking time: 3 hours 45 minutes, although we were up here for 6 hours.



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