Historical Trail along Mount Kerenzerberg and Lakeside Walk at Lake Walensee

Tuesday September 3, 2024 -- In the forecast of not-so-great weather this week, Tuesday was supposed to be the nicest (in retrospect, it was actually the least nice of the week!). I had some big plans for doing a walk on my own, but everything changed on my way to the planned start of my hike. I ended up changing plans along the way based on the way the sky looked as I was already on the way after 7 a.m.!!!

I settled on a walk along the south shore of Lake Walensee, which is not the more popular shore as the highway and train pass on that side of the lake. (As a contrast, there is a hiking trail all along the north side of the lake, which is actually only accessible on foot and by boat, and we have walked there often, as the north side receives lots of sunshine in late fall and winter, whereas the south side is in the shade of the Glarus mountains).

In June of 2020 (those photos are HERE), we did a hike along the old Roman Road on the south side, starting in Mühlehorn and hiking uphill first, and then westward along a high trail into the Linth Valley. This time I started again in Mühlehorn, but walked a lower trail along the cliffs, and upon reaching the west end of the lake, I crossed over to Weesen and continued along the Linth Canal (where the water flows from Lake Walensee to the Obersee at the south end of Lake Zurich) to the train station in Ziegelbrücke. In all, it was a fairly easy 10-km hike, and I even had some sunshine.... 

Side note: On later research I found out that the trail I walked is called the Heerweg, one of the first roads along the lake on the south side. In 1570 an overloaded ship (wine, salt, 60 persons and 6 horses) sunk on the lake during a Fön storm. An individual named Heer was supposed to be on the ship, but in light of the weather development, chose to walk instead. In thankfulness for not having been on the ship (only 14 people survived), he built this road at his own cost between 1603 and 1607. (Information from this website: https://www.sarganserland-walensee.ch/lokalgeschichte/heerweg/heerweg.htm)

The walk to Weesen takes about 2¼ hours, and from there I walked another 45 minutes to Ziegelbrücke. So in the end, it was a 3-hour hike. I started here in Mühlehorn at 9:40. 

This looks like it might have been the old mill, as the sign reads "Mühle". (It used to be a restaurant, but I don't think it is any more). 

Walking down the main street in Mühlehorn heading to the lakeside hiking trail. This is along the flanks of Mount Kerenzerberg, on the south side of Lake Walensee. 

The view eastward along Lake Walensee as I head uphill a bit, away from the main road which follows the south side of the lake. The mountains on the north side of the lake are called the Churfirsten.

My first view of the sunny upper plateau on the north side of the lake. From there you can head down along the trail on the north side of the lake (there is no road there). The most recent hike I did there was in December of 2023, on a lovely snow-free day (those photos are HERE). 

The lesser-known trail I picked to walk this day, starting in Mühlehorn and ending in Ziegelbrücke, follows some very nice cliffs about 50 meters above the lakeshore. It was a 10½-kilometer hike. I started at 9:40, and got to Ziegelbrücke at about 2 p.m. 

The trail I am following is about 50 meters above the lake, in that strip of forest between two sets of vertical cliffs. (The ones above the trail are about 100 meters). This is the start of the historical Heer Road, one of the first roads at the base of Mt. Kerenzerberg, built between 1603 and 1607 by a fellow named Heer, who walked there instead of taking a boat which sank during a storm. 

It was a very pleasant and lovely forest trail along the vertical cliffs. On another hot day as this one, the shade was welcome, although the air was a bit muggy. One negative aspect was that there were few spaces between the trees where one might get a look at the lake. 

A self-timed photo of me walking on the forest trail!

About half-way along, the trail heads slightly into a ravine and crosses the Filzbach river, which tumbles down in several waterfalls to enter the lake here. (We crossed the river higher up in the community of Filzbach when we did the hike along the Old Roman Road in JUNE 2020)

Bridge crossing the Filzbach River in the small ravine

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In the small ravine where the Filzbach River flows down as a waterfall 

and then enters Lake Walensee

A look behind me as I continue along the lovely cliffs. 

A "rare" window in the trees for a view across Lake Walensee to the road that leads from Weesen on the lake to Amden on the higher plateau. 

The edges of the trail were full of these pretty, wild-growing cyclamen. 

Now I've emerged from the section of the forested cliff trail and get a really nice look at the sunny plateau (Amden) on the north side of the lake. We have been up there many, many times. 

From the upper path, steps descend to the paved lakeshore trail. (The new highway runs through a gallery on the left). Large steel nets are to prevent rocks falling from the cliffs hitting pedestrians below! (The mountain up ahead is called Hirzli, and we walked to its summit this summer, photos are HERE).

As I descended to the lakeside road (possibly an older motor-vehicle road), I saw two hikers disappear into this tunnel, and only then did I notice on my map that there is a secondary walking path here, which passes through a couple of longer tunnels, or follows the old road between the lakeshore and the new highway. I also watched two people on bikes head that way, and figure it would be a trail best done by bike instead of on foot!

The road below is the old vehicle road, and the highway now passes through the gallery on the left. 

At lake level now, this sand bar is the delta formed by the Linth River as it enters Lake Walensee. Across the lake is the town of Weesen. From here I mostly followed the lakeshore until I crossed the Linth River again where it leaves the lake at Weesen. 

This is the entrance to the Kerenzerberg train tunnel, and there is a lot of work going on along the cliffs above the railway line. The original safeguards mounted in the stone to protect the railway from falling rocks need replacing. 

Massive work going on above the Kerenzerberg railway line to put in new safeguards. On a side note, I was so impressed by this that I missed a very important yet little-known monument just meters from this tunnel: An 8-meter high black marble panel marking high water levels of the lake since 1807. I'll have to return to do a bike ride along the lake and canal, and see if I can find it. 

Crossing the Linth River (also basically a canal from about the height of Glarus in the Linth Valley), I watched the "harvesting" of gravel from the river where it enters Lake Walensee

Many trains pass over the Linth Canal (two canals, actually) from/to Ziegelbrücke heading to/from Chur along the south side of Lake Walensee, where I just walked.

All along the waterfront is a park with a nice walking trail (and also a campground) but no view of the lake due to trees, so I walked along the beach. This view is eastward down the lake, and I can see where I walked along the cliffs. 

Another nice view over at Amden and the Churfirsten mountains along the north side of the lake. 

Lakeside walk along Lake Walensee

There was a little harbour here as well

The path continues along the lake but away from the beach, through protected nature reserve landscape of 100-year-old trees.

The trees were planted as a windscreen and to draw water from a wet marshy area, to thus protect the lakeshore. Most of the trees are poplars, willows and birch. 

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Lovely park-like nature reserve at the west end of Lake Walensee

It was such a pleasant path to walk along through the nature reserve, with all its old poplar trees. 

In the background are the peaks of the Linth Valley (Canton Glarus). The sky there has become very overcast, and I'm glad I didn't head that way (it WAS an option I had considered along the way). 

A small path through the trees led to this beach area with a large fallen log, where I sat and had my picnic lunch, enjoying this view down the entire lake. It was now about 11:45. 

Trying out some more self-timed photos anywhere where there is a fence or tree stump where I can set up my camera! 

View to Weesen. 

Continuing on now toward the bridge which crosses the other Linth Canal into Weesen.

This here was the most impressive tree of them all!

This is the Linth Canal (the other one) where the water leaves Lake Walensee on its way to Lake Zurich. 

Crossing the bridge over the Linth Canal, looking east. 

After crossing the bridge I headed west again along the north side of the Canal. This was a pretty long 45 minutes to the train station in Ziegelbrücke. Usually, I don't like these kinds of straight paths, but the water was very pretty. 

This path between Weesen and Ziegelbrücke is actually part of National Trail no.3: "Alpine Panorama Trail", of which we have done many sections. 

A fabulous Linden Tree.

A sign next to the Canal informs that the Canal was built between 1807 and the end of the 19th Century on the initiative of a local man named Conrad Escher (who also built the High-Water Monument) in order to protect this large plain from flood-waters. The canal is regularly maintained and is very pretty. 

Walking along a section of Trail no.3: "Alpine Panorama Trail" between Weesen and Ziegelbrücke. Because I didn't go all the way into the town of Weesen, this was a 45-minute walk for me. 

This time it's a train coming from along Lake Walensee, heading to Ziegelbrücke. 

The grass is full of autumn crocuses, always a sure sign that summer is over. 

Everywhere now the autumn crocuses are poking out of the ground. 

Being watched as I walk past!

This is the other train line from Ziegelbrücke, the one that travels to the village of Linth at the back of the Linth Valley (where we were on a recent hike about a week earlier, photos HERE)

Across the street from the train station in Ziegelbrücke is a bridge over the Linth River. Some boaters were having a great time here! I got to the train station at 1:10 p.m., in good time for the 13:19 train home (maximum 90 minutes to get home from here)

What my 10-km walk looks like between Mühlehorn on Lake Walensee, along the historical Heer Road, then along the lakeshore and the Linth Canal to the train station at Ziegelbrücke. 

These are all the hikes we have done to date around the region of Amden, Ziegelbrücke and Lake Walensee. 

Location of Lake Walensee in Switzerland

Photo of a painting of the 1570 sinking of the ship (archives from Zurich Central Library) in Lake Walensee, which led to the construction of the Heer road in the early 1600's. (Credits for the story to this website: https://www.sarganserland-walensee.ch/lokalgeschichte/heerweg/heerweg.htm)

This view is from the chairlift in Amden on an August 2020 hike we did, looking down at Lake Walensee. You can see the cliffs on the south side of the lake, where I walked along the historical Heer Road. 

Along the Cliffs between Haldi and Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley

Sunday September 1, 2024 -- Nothing too exciting on this three-hour hike in the Reuss Valley near Altdorf. 

We were once again looking for a walk which we could do nearby before the forecast afternoon electrical storms, and something with enough shade to beat the heat. We have long wanted to walk below the vertical cliffs between the Haldi Plateau near Altdorf, and down to Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley, which is a location which we can access quite quickly, and where the Uri Alps are always a fantastic backdrop to any hike in this region.

Because the trail is on the east side of the steep cliffs, I would have preferred doing this hike on a fall afternoon with plenty of sunshine into the forest trails, but it was the best we could come up at short notice. For me, the first part of the forest walk was "too dark" but Urs was very happy about the early morning shade. But once the sun came over the cliffs and we had that "sun-dappled" forest and the stunning view down to Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley bottom, I was quite happy. Furthermore, there was a more "exciting" section along a steep narrow trail which required some careful treading. But we managed well, and were finished with our three-hour hike and on our way home by 12:30, without even feeling tired at all! 

We start with a cable-car ride up to the upper plateau called Haldi near Schattdorf in the Reuss Valley. 

From Haldi you get a good view of Altdorf and the south end of Lake Uri. We have been up here a lot. In particular, it is often sunny up here in winter when the valley is blanketed in fog. 

This is a BIG house!

Up ahead we can sort of see the trail we will be following through the forest heading south on the east side of the Reuss Valley. It is clear that we will be in the shade, which might be a good thing on this hot day. 

This was not a very long hike for us, although it would take at least three hours, as you had to be careful on the section of cliffs near Erstfeld. We started in Haldi shortly before 9 a.m. and got to Erstfeld aat 12:20. (We were home by 1:45 p.m.)

We started here at the Haldi Plateau at shortly before 9 a.m, and headed to that lower clearing which is just getting some sunshine (it is called Figstuel)

Very nice and clear view across the Reuss Valley toward the Surenen Pass, which descends to the Engelberg Valley. 

We have to admit it was nice to walk in the cool morning shadow of the mountains. 

Unfortunately I did not get a nice focused shot of this lovely colourful bird before it flew away (it was also quite a far distance). It is called a European Goldfinch and is common in Switzerland. I'd never seen one like that before.

Looking behind us at the path we just walked. 

Arriving at the first long stretch of forest. It was a bit too dark for me at this time of morning, and I wished we had more sunlight here. 

After 15 minutes through the forest we got to this sunny clearing, a farm called Figstuel, with such a fantastic view. 

When we started in Haldi, we had seen this trail was still in the shadow of the mountain, and now the sun has reached to here. (It is now 9:30)

And behind us, past the plateau that is Haldi (very popular for snowhoeing in winter), is the lovely Schächental Valley and alpine pastures called Alpe Selez where we have been so many times in the past. 

Down below are the communities of Schattdorf, Altdorf, and Flüelen at the south end of Lake Uri. The Reuss River enters Lake Uri at the Reuss Delta. 

Another look behind us at the Haldi Plateau as we enter the second forested stage, for most of the rest of the way down the mountain. 

As we are now basically walking along a vertical mountain face on the east side of the Reuss Valley, we encounter a few "adventurous" sections. 

It's not that hard when there are hand-holds

This sign warns us that we are now coming to a section that has loose gravel that can cause you to slip on the steep flanks. The trail is recommended for practised hikers only, with proper hiking shoes. 

And now we get the first fantastic views to the south along the Reuss Valley bottom. Below is the town of Erstfeld, which is the goal of this day's hike. The large side valley on the right is called the Erstfeldertal (Erstfeld Valley) in which we once did a stunning hike, starting with a cable car ride from the other side of the river below (to the clearing on the upper right).   

Up the Reuss Valley we can also see Mount Bristen. 

A close-up of the town of Erstfeld. 

Directly across the valley from where we are is the Surenen Pass into the Engelberg Valley. We hiked over this pass in August 2017 (Photos are HERE)

A narrow path right next to the vertical drop. A fence helps.... And now we finally have sunshine on our trail, which is much more pleasant and still not too hot.

Now we got to the section where we had to tread carefully, and where we expected gravelly passages. 

Sure enough, a lot of gravel has rolled down the cliffs and covered the trail

This was the hardest part to cross, as the trail is totally covered and the gravel is loose. 

Crossing very slowly and carefully and making sure no gravel is loose underfoot. 

Our efforts are rewarded with more lovely views, as we get closer to valley bottom. 

We are practised hikers, so this isn't difficult for us, but we just go slowly. 

The rocks are laid out like steps, but the drop on the other side is almost vertical. 

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Navigating the steep and tricky trail

A glance up at the large vertical cliff above us. 

It was a surprise to find a water trough up here (certainly not for any cows!) and there was even a cup set next to it for all to share. (Not me! hands work fine...)

Just above the trough are the vertical cliffs. 

Originally we were going to descend on the north end of Erstfeld and walk the final kilometer on the city streets, but we discovered a forestry road higher up that would take us to right above the train station, so we followed that instead. What a view above us. There is also another alpine pasture midway up, accessible by cable-car from Erstfeld (we started a hike once up there, those photos are HERE)

Walking along the forestry road parallel to the Valley, so we could stay higher up for longer (always better!) 

The end of the forestry road. Before heading down to Erstfeld, we stopped at a picnic spot with a good view into the Erstfeld Valley. 

Down below is Erstfeld. In August 2017 we did a fabulous hike into the Erstfeld valley, starting with a cable-car ride up the mountain on the right, before walking along a high trail to the back, and then coming out again on the left and all the way down into Erstfeld. (Those photos are HERE)

Before reaching the train station in Erstfeld, a final look up to the forested section below the cliffs, through which we walked..... 

Heading north by train from Erstfeld, we can see approximately where we walked between two sets of vertical cliffs!

These are all the hikes we have done in the area. This day's hike started on the Haldi Plateau and down to Erstfeld, but we have used the many cable cars in the region for lots of hikes in the side valleys as well. (In particular, the map also shows the stunning hike we did via Lake Seewlisee about a week earlier, also in pink). 

On the way home again by train along the east side of Lake Uri... this is always a favourite trip as well. This is in Sisikon, just north of the south end of the lake, looking across at the Rütli Meadow where representatives of the three original Cantons met in 1291 to form the Confederacy. 

Here the lake makes a right-angle bend, changing its name from Lake Uri to Lake Lucerne. 

A different view of the hikes we have done in this region, including all the hikes in the Schächen Valley. 

Location of Erstfeld in Switzerland