Along the Cliffs between Haldi and Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley

Sunday September 1, 2024 -- Nothing too exciting on this three-hour hike in the Reuss Valley near Altdorf. 

We were once again looking for a walk which we could do nearby before the forecast afternoon electrical storms, and something with enough shade to beat the heat. We have long wanted to walk below the vertical cliffs between the Haldi Plateau near Altdorf, and down to Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley, which is a location which we can access quite quickly, and where the Uri Alps are always a fantastic backdrop to any hike in this region.

Because the trail is on the east side of the steep cliffs, I would have preferred doing this hike on a fall afternoon with plenty of sunshine into the forest trails, but it was the best we could come up at short notice. For me, the first part of the forest walk was "too dark" but Urs was very happy about the early morning shade. But once the sun came over the cliffs and we had that "sun-dappled" forest and the stunning view down to Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley bottom, I was quite happy. Furthermore, there was a more "exciting" section along a steep narrow trail which required some careful treading. But we managed well, and were finished with our three-hour hike and on our way home by 12:30, without even feeling tired at all! 

We start with a cable-car ride up to the upper plateau called Haldi near Schattdorf in the Reuss Valley. 

From Haldi you get a good view of Altdorf and the south end of Lake Uri. We have been up here a lot. In particular, it is often sunny up here in winter when the valley is blanketed in fog. 

This is a BIG house!

Up ahead we can sort of see the trail we will be following through the forest heading south on the east side of the Reuss Valley. It is clear that we will be in the shade, which might be a good thing on this hot day. 

This was not a very long hike for us, although it would take at least three hours, as you had to be careful on the section of cliffs near Erstfeld. We started in Haldi shortly before 9 a.m. and got to Erstfeld aat 12:20. (We were home by 1:45 p.m.)

We started here at the Haldi Plateau at shortly before 9 a.m, and headed to that lower clearing which is just getting some sunshine (it is called Figstuel)

Very nice and clear view across the Reuss Valley toward the Surenen Pass, which descends to the Engelberg Valley. 

We have to admit it was nice to walk in the cool morning shadow of the mountains. 

Unfortunately I did not get a nice focused shot of this lovely colourful bird before it flew away (it was also quite a far distance). It is called a European Goldfinch and is common in Switzerland. I'd never seen one like that before.

Looking behind us at the path we just walked. 

Arriving at the first long stretch of forest. It was a bit too dark for me at this time of morning, and I wished we had more sunlight here. 

After 15 minutes through the forest we got to this sunny clearing, a farm called Figstuel, with such a fantastic view. 

When we started in Haldi, we had seen this trail was still in the shadow of the mountain, and now the sun has reached to here. (It is now 9:30)

And behind us, past the plateau that is Haldi (very popular for snowhoeing in winter), is the lovely Schächental Valley and alpine pastures called Alpe Selez where we have been so many times in the past. 

Down below are the communities of Schattdorf, Altdorf, and Flüelen at the south end of Lake Uri. The Reuss River enters Lake Uri at the Reuss Delta. 

Another look behind us at the Haldi Plateau as we enter the second forested stage, for most of the rest of the way down the mountain. 

As we are now basically walking along a vertical mountain face on the east side of the Reuss Valley, we encounter a few "adventurous" sections. 

It's not that hard when there are hand-holds

This sign warns us that we are now coming to a section that has loose gravel that can cause you to slip on the steep flanks. The trail is recommended for practised hikers only, with proper hiking shoes. 

And now we get the first fantastic views to the south along the Reuss Valley bottom. Below is the town of Erstfeld, which is the goal of this day's hike. The large side valley on the right is called the Erstfeldertal (Erstfeld Valley) in which we once did a stunning hike, starting with a cable car ride from the other side of the river below (to the clearing on the upper right).   

Up the Reuss Valley we can also see Mount Bristen. 

A close-up of the town of Erstfeld. 

Directly across the valley from where we are is the Surenen Pass into the Engelberg Valley. We hiked over this pass in August 2017 (Photos are HERE)

A narrow path right next to the vertical drop. A fence helps.... And now we finally have sunshine on our trail, which is much more pleasant and still not too hot.

Now we got to the section where we had to tread carefully, and where we expected gravelly passages. 

Sure enough, a lot of gravel has rolled down the cliffs and covered the trail

This was the hardest part to cross, as the trail is totally covered and the gravel is loose. 

Crossing very slowly and carefully and making sure no gravel is loose underfoot. 

Our efforts are rewarded with more lovely views, as we get closer to valley bottom. 

We are practised hikers, so this isn't difficult for us, but we just go slowly. 

The rocks are laid out like steps, but the drop on the other side is almost vertical. 

VIDEO:

Navigating the steep and tricky trail

A glance up at the large vertical cliff above us. 

It was a surprise to find a water trough up here (certainly not for any cows!) and there was even a cup set next to it for all to share. (Not me! hands work fine...)

Just above the trough are the vertical cliffs. 

Originally we were going to descend on the north end of Erstfeld and walk the final kilometer on the city streets, but we discovered a forestry road higher up that would take us to right above the train station, so we followed that instead. What a view above us. There is also another alpine pasture midway up, accessible by cable-car from Erstfeld (we started a hike once up there, those photos are HERE)

Walking along the forestry road parallel to the Valley, so we could stay higher up for longer (always better!) 

The end of the forestry road. Before heading down to Erstfeld, we stopped at a picnic spot with a good view into the Erstfeld Valley. 

Down below is Erstfeld. In August 2017 we did a fabulous hike into the Erstfeld valley, starting with a cable-car ride up the mountain on the right, before walking along a high trail to the back, and then coming out again on the left and all the way down into Erstfeld. (Those photos are HERE)

Before reaching the train station in Erstfeld, a final look up to the forested section below the cliffs, through which we walked..... 

Heading north by train from Erstfeld, we can see approximately where we walked between two sets of vertical cliffs!

These are all the hikes we have done in the area. This day's hike started on the Haldi Plateau and down to Erstfeld, but we have used the many cable cars in the region for lots of hikes in the side valleys as well. (In particular, the map also shows the stunning hike we did via Lake Seewlisee about a week earlier, also in pink). 

On the way home again by train along the east side of Lake Uri... this is always a favourite trip as well. This is in Sisikon, just north of the south end of the lake, looking across at the Rütli Meadow where representatives of the three original Cantons met in 1291 to form the Confederacy. 

Here the lake makes a right-angle bend, changing its name from Lake Uri to Lake Lucerne. 

A different view of the hikes we have done in this region, including all the hikes in the Schächen Valley. 

Location of Erstfeld in Switzerland

An Easy 9-km Walk along the Reuss River between Erstfeld and Altdorf

Friday March 17, 2023 -- Urs had the day off today but had a funeral to attend. So I met him at 1 p.m. near where the funeral took place, and we still managed to do a 9-km afternoon walk!

Since he did not have his hiking boots along, we did a simple walk along the Reuss River from Erstfeld to Altdorf, connecting a piece of national Trail no.7: "Via Gottardo", a stretch we might not have done otherwise, as we don't do a lot of "straight along rivers" type of hikes.

Nevertheless, we did have some sunshine and good views, and even one interesting passage where a section of trail is a 90-meter tunnel blasted into the cliffs, one of the first major post-war investments by Canton Uri for pedestrians, created in 1959.

At Attinghausen we crossed the Reuss River and walked to Altdorf, a hike I did alone once before, with better weather and lots of blossoming trees, but with the same amount of snow on the mountains as this time, five weeks later in the year! (April 20, 2021. Those photos are HERE, second section of the blog entry). Along the way we passed a BIO-Farm with a lovely shop that sold all kinds of products, so we bought locally-made cheese again, and rested in their garden with something to drink. 

We crossed the Reuss River in Erstfeld at just past 1 p.m. This is a look down the valley in the direction we are walking. The walking trail is on the left, or west side of the river. 

Two hours and 15 minutes is the walking time to Altdorf. We caught the bus there at 4:30 p.m, so we actually took 3.5 hours to walk the stretch! (lots of stops along the way, as usual). 

The church in Erstfeld

A look behind us where we crossed the bridge from the main part of Erstfeld town. The view is upvalley, and that most dominant mountain is called Mount Bristen. 

The 9 kilometer stretch from Erstfeld to Altdorf takes about 2-1/4 hours to walk. We took our time, stopped along the way, and made it to Altdorf for the 4:30 p.m. bus. (I need longer breaks when walking flat along rivers...)

The walking trail along the Reuss River. This was the original mule trail down this valley. Among others, the path followed by Russian General Suvorov in his operations against Napoleon at the end of the 18th Century.

The little house on the right is the old sexton house (pastor assistant), first mentioned in 1558, but rebuilt in 1749 using the original foundation walls. Renovated in 1980, it still retains the late Baroque Uri farmhouse style. Urs has relatives who worked as the sexton, and therefore lived in that historical house for a while. 

A look behind us at Mount Bristen and Erstfeld right and left.

The little part of Erstfeld on the left side of the river. The small chapel on the left is actually on the other side of the river. 

Time to start preparing the gardens

Walking down-river along the Reuss River

On the road between Erstfeld and Attinghausen are two small cableways which access the mountains on this side of the river (another more popular one starts in Attinghausen). We have ridden this one here (Hofstetten-Wilerli) before, when we walked into the Erstfeld Valley (those photos are HERE) 

This stretch along the Reuss River (and all the way to the Gotthard Tunnel in Göschenen to the south) is part of four theme trails. No.7 is the Via Gottardo, No.2 is the Trans-Swiss Trail, and No.55 is the Via Suvorov Trail. We have done several stretches on each of these. 

I can just imagine how pretty this would look with the blossoming trees. 

This suspension bridge near the cliff trail must be very new, as it is not on my hiking trails map

The 90-meter stretch of tunnel which was built in 1959 to improve the hiking trail on this side of the river. 

A look out of the tunnel "window" up the Reuss Valley. You can just see the new bridge below, and Mount Bristen at the back. 

Leaving the main trail to take a detour through the town of Attinghausen. 

In Attinghausen are the ruins of a 12-Century fortress. We didn't go up there this time, as I had visited these ruins on my last trip here. (Photos HERE, second part of blog). 

The church and ossuary chapel in Attinghausen

Crossing the Reuss River to its east side. The view is to the north

A close-up shot of Mount Bristen to the South

Crossing the pastures toward Altdorf. Ahead of us is one of our favourite valleys: Schächental. Comparing this photo to that of my hike here on April 20, 2021, there is as much snow here in March, as there was then in April, five weeks later in the year!

This chapel is called Zwyerkapelle. We didn't actually pass by it. 

Another look south. (One of our next planned hikes is above the cliff on the left). 

To the left of the arrow is the highest peak in this massif, Hoch Fulen (1506m). On July 1, 2020 we crossed from the other side at the arrow. A fantastic 2-day tour that was, those photos are HERE

We passed by a farm called "byherger" which features a large farm shop (where we bought cheese) and a garden with several tables where we sat for a long break, and enjoyed watching this baby make motor noises as it drives the old tractor!!!

I took a screenshot of the garden from the farm's website www.byherger.ch, because I didn't take my own photo there. This was the view from the table where we sat.

Someone else enjoying the mild afternoon!

This was a surprise! This tree is near the downtown of the city of Altdorf, and looks like a sequoia tree!  Here they call it a Wellingtonia

Walking down the main street in Altdorf toward the "Türmil" (Little Tower) where we catch the bus

The "Türmli" was built in the 13th Century and is one of the oldest buildings in Canton Uri. The famous Tell Monument from 1895 stands in front of the tower. 

A cute pastry shop on the main square in Altdorf. 

A 9-km stretch from Erstfeld to Altdorf, mostly along the Reuss River. 

We've done all kinds of hikes around here, it's one of our favourite areas. Especially because there are a multitude of small cable cars giving access tothe mountains. 

An Aunt of Urs' used to live in this House (Sigristenhaus)