15-km hike from Lüderenalp in the Napf Region of the Emmental

Saturday June 3, 2023 -- We hadn't been to the Emmental region of Canton Bern for a while, in particular in the Napf Region which is very popular on weekends, but we risked it anyway as the area we wanted to walk is accessed by bus only on weekends. To avoid possibly full buses, we started very early again, leaving home before 6 a.m. to catch the first of four bus runs to get to the start of our hike at Lüderenalp at 8:30 a.m.

The day held loads of promise, and the early morning light and clear skies as well as the lovely Emmental houses on our bus ride up the valley called Gohlgraben were a pleasure. The road to the pass at the Lüderenalp Gasthaus and Restaurant at the back of the valley is also interesting, as it is so narrow with nowhere to pass, that no other vehicle traffic is allowed on the 4-km stretch short of the pass during the time the bus travels there.

We were correct that only a few people were headed up that way at this time, but five other people walking the same trail started at the same time, and they were all chatty people. Fortunately, the popular trail is to the summit of Mount Napf, the highest peak in this expansive region of undulating hills, and we chose a lesser-used trail, and were alone for most of the rest of the 4-1/2 hour hike after leaving the main trail.

Unfortunately, the forecast for pure sunshine all day didn't pan out again, and for a while it almost got too cold with thick cloud cover, but it was a good hike mainly because almost the full 15 kilometers were on narrow forest or meadow trails. Which was the reason we had picked this hike for this day. Clear air would have been "the icing on the cake" as you get a good view of the Alps to the South from here, but we unfortunately missed out this day. 

NOTE: At this time of year, deer often hide their babies in the tall grass of the uncut meadows, which can be dangerous if the farmer mowing his grass doesn't see them. On our way, we surprised two such deer (no babies, though) who had been resting in the tall grass and bounded out of the way when we walked past. 

Early morning 8:09 bus ride up the Gohlgraben (or Gohl Valley, so named because that's the name of the river there), from Langnau to Lüderenalp, a 27-minute ride with lots of Emmental farm houses to admire along the way

So many interesting farms and houses and barns along the way

The last section of the road up to the pass is so narrow, that other vehicles are not allowed on the road when the bus is on that stretch. It was the first run of the day, so the bus driver had to adjust the signs (It looks like they get "closed" for the night)

On the narrow road up to the pass, we can see the restaurant at Lüderenalp where we are starting on our hike

One lone tree on a hill in the distance

The view south as we get to Lüderenalp

The most popular route from here is the 4-hour trail to the summit of Mt.Napf, the highest peak in this region. (We have done that stretch before, but starting at Mt.Napf and walking in this direction. Those photos are HERE). We are leaving Trail no.3 at Hohmattgätterli

This was a long hike, 15 kilometers and over four hours, but it did not seem that long because almost the whole way was on narrow forest or mostly meadow trails. Very little on paved roads except at the very end. 

Starting off on our hike we walked quickly because we wanted to keep a distance from the handful of other hikers going the same way. We started at about 8:45.

Most of the time we were on nice narrow paths like this one. 

To the north, more single trees on little hills, this looks so cute. 

The rolling hills of the Napf Region in the Emmental

Small buildings and farms dotted the countryside

We made it to the junction at 9:50, about an hour after starting out, so less than the recommended time. From this point on, heading south in the direction of Langnau, we were all alone on the trail, as the few other hikers on the trail this morning did indeed head toward the Napf. 

Lots of narrow meadow trails

We had to walk through this farmyard

Peek-a-Boo!

This farm was called Schinenalp

We didn't stop here but it would be a great place for a picnic

You don't often see "half a house". They must have removed an attached barn which got too old, and are now building a new one on there

Sometimes we have to walk through fields that have just been mowed. The trail is recognizable because it is usually darker green than the places where the grass was long. 

This place is called Imperech, and this is where we stopped for lunch

This cute little hut had benches all around, so you could choose to sit in the sun or in the shade!

All kinds of pretty meadow flowers we saw along the way

This is some very tall grass! This farm is called Guggernülli, it has something to do with a Cuckoo. (Gugger is another name for the Cuckoo)

My favourite meadow flowers are the daisies, they look so happy

A bit of a rest before heading downhill now toward the end of our hike

This hillside is called Grindlen, and there were three sets of farmhouses. The first one here, Ober-Grindlen, was very pretty. 

The beautiful farmhouse at Obergrindlen

Many farms have secondary buildings called "Spycher", which consist of storage on the lower level and living quarters above (usually for elderly parents when the children take over running the farm). Around the beautiful door is an inscription with the name of the person who built the "Speiher", and a date of 1741.

Amazing how those roofs go so low. The living quarters are on two levels, and the upper level barely gets any sunshine. And the large roof area is probably filled with hay.

Various "Spycher" buildings we saw along the way

On to the final stretch. The last few farms below before we reach or destination of the village of Bärau

Heading down to the road for the final stretch to Bärau

How can you tell I just love the daisies of the fields!

VIDEO:
Daisies swaying in the wind! I love daisies.

Always such clever decorations

Even though it is more expensive to build with this much wood, it is nice to see new houses being built in the traditional Emmental style. 

Crossing the Gohl Stream

A staple of the Swiss countryside: The smell of pig manure being distributed on the pastures!

Another very large farmhouse and the accompanying Spycher, just on the outskirts of Bärau

And one more lovely house in the village of Bärau itself

These are the various hikes we have done in the Napf Region. The photos for the other two 2017 hikes, both ending at Lüderenalp but starting at different sides can be viewed HERE and HERE

The Napf region in Switzerland

On the way home we stopped at the Kambly Cookie factory (it was on the way) for some more free samples, and a large purchase to take home!

Hike down Mount Rigi on the Schwyzer Höhenweg

Friday June 2, 2023 -- Another beautiful day not to be wasted, so I decided to do a hike on my own again, heading up to the summit of Mount Rigi on the first possible connection (train up from Arth-Goldau at 8 a.m., arriving at the top at 8:50) where I was able to enjoy the early morning panoramic views and the peacefulness before the next scheduled trains brought all the Asian tourists up the mountain at 10:00 a.m.

As the trains spilled their masses of tourists at the summit, I boarded to descend to the next station down (Rigi Staffel), having planned to walk down the mountain from there, to the train station at Arth Goldau. (Only six people on the train's return journey!!). The trail I followed wasn't the best as far as views are concerned, but it is part of the Regional Trail no.63: Schwyzer Höhenweg (Schwyz High Trail) and a section of trail which I had not walked before (we have walked many trails along this mountain already). 

No one else seemed to be walking downhill this day, although I passed many sweating hikers walking uphill: People seem to feel challenged to summit many of the Swiss mountains on foot, but I'd rather descend 1000m instead of ascending, especially on a hot day! The air was hazy by the time I got near the bottom, so the views to Lake Lauerz and Lake Zug weren't the best, but it was a comfortable enough walk, another 10 kms and 2 hrs 40 minutes. Along the way, I got to watch the cows being led up to higher pastures for the summer, and that is always a treat as well!

A 15-minute train ride from Zug to Arth-Goldau along lake Zug (25 minutes from home). This is Mount Rigi. A cog-wheel train takes you up to the summit which you can see across the lake. 

The Rigi Railway station with the first set of trains ready to climb the mountain, departure time is 7:55, and it is a 45-minute ride to the top. There were about 20 of us in this first run up the mountain

The first views of the mountains as the train makes its way to the summit

Up at Rigi Kulm station is the familiar landmark chapel

From the summit station, all the tourists make their way to the restaurant and the tower, from where you get 360-degree views over most of Switzerland. I've been there so many times, I didn't bother this time. 

Even from below the tower, you get a very nice view to the north across Lake Zug (we live at the far end of that lake). Of course if the air was less hazy, you would see much further. 

Also to the north is the popular plateau called Seebodenalp, and the Küssnacht arm of Lake Luzern (Vierwaldstättersee). 

There were a couple of wooden lounging chairs here above the chapel, and as I hadn't slept well the night before, I decided to rest here for an hour before the flood of tourists came. It was cool and quiet and peaceful, and only a handful of people were up here. The view's not too bad either. 

Below is the walking trail to the next lower station at Rigi Staffel. I have walked this trail many times. In the background is Mount Pilatus, the main mountain of the city of Luzern, which is at its base to the right. 

Waiting for the 10 a.m. train to head down one station to the start of my hike. The white-capped mountains in the background are the Bernese Alps. On a clear day, the views here are incomparable. 

The newer, modern Rigi train arrives from Vitznau with the first load of tourists....

...followed be the older blue train from Arth Goldau

Almost all of these people are Asians from China or Korea. I'm so glad I took the earlier train up! And boy, this isn't even summer holidays yet. 10 a.m. on a Friday morning in June. 

That part of the mountain is called Rigi Rotstock. I am starting my downhill hike from the building on the right, which is called Rigi Staffel. And in the background is Mount Pilatus

Only a handful of people in the train for the ride back down the hill. An hour later and it will be full of those tourists again, who only really spend an hour up here before moving on to their next destination. 

The modern train is also descending to pick up the next set of tourists. This is the train station at Rigi Staffel, where I started my hike at 10:15.

The section of the Schwyzer Höhenweg (no.63) from Rigi Staffel to Arth Goldau, almost 10 km and 2.5 hours, which is about what it took me. It's all downhill, 1120 meters. 

VIDEO:

The blue Rigi Train heading back down to Arth Goldau

The blue Rigi train heading back down to Arth Goldau, as I start out on my walk. 

Down this valley is where the trail leads. In the center is a small gathering of buildings called Rigi Klösterli, including a small pilgrim's chapel. 

A look up at the tower at Rigi Kulm (summit). 

There was forestry work being done along the trail, which actually was blocked to hikers until end of May. Still, they obviously hadn't finished their work, and I had to clamber over heaps of cut branches. 

Near the next station of Rigi Klösterli are a few residences, a hotel, a vacation camp facility, and this little pilgrim chapel called "Maria zum Schnee" (Maria of the Snow), dedicated in 1721

Obviously I had to take a look in the chapel. I was impresed at how ornate this mountain chapel is!

Many details of the inside of the pilgrim chapel "Maria zum Schnee"

Cows and flowers

Stopped here for a self-timed photo and to change into my shorts, because it is now 11 a.m. and getting quite warm!

The 11 a.m. run up the mountain with the next load of tourists!

As I was heading down the trail, I heard an incessant noise of cow bells, which usually means that cows are on the march. After waiting 10 minutes they finally appeared, being led to higher pastures. But they were taking their sweet time with the process!

VIDEO:
It's hard work getting those cows to upper pastures, as they want to stop and taste all the grass along the way!

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Now they're wondering what I am doing up here... 

In another pasture I saw these cows sleeping on their sides. This looks so unusual, you don't often see them lying like this!

About 2/3rds down the mountain is a restaurant and former Gasthaus called Dächli. (This abandoned building is not the restaurant). 

Even though a sign read that they are open Friday-Saturday-Sunday, it looks like it might no longer be operational. There was a fridge with self-serve refreshments. The wooden carving is interesting!

A look up at the building called Dächli as I continue down the mountain. It is believed that this building provided accommodation and meals in the 18th Century to the pilgrims making their way up the mountain to the chapel at Klösterli. Back then, the ascent had to be done on foot, no Rigibahn! 

From Dachli it's just over an hour to the train station in Goldau.

Now I've emerged from the forest into the pasturelands at the foot of the mountain, with a view south to Lake Lauerz and the Mythen mountains. 

A look behind me up the mountain. The small building toward the top is Dächli

A close-up look to the summit of Mount Rigi

To the north is Lake Zug. The town on the south end of Lake Zug is called Arth

A zoomed view of Arth on the south side of Lake Zug

Down at city level now, this is the Catholic church in Goldau

If time permits and churches are open, I always have a look inside

At 1:15 p.m. I made it back to the Rigi-Bahn train station, which is an elevated platform built above and perpendicular to the regular railway. The platform was built in 1897 and as of 2006 it has become an industrial monument of national importance. 

The elevated platform was built in 1897 and was an engineering marvel of its time. Since then, and with the development of electric trains and most recently of double-decker trains on the Gotthard line below, the platform had to be raised twice (41cm in 1922 and 70 cm between 2010 and 2017). As of 2006 it had become an industrial monument of national importance, and therefore they could not remove it to make way for the taller trains. 

And now another look at the summit of Mount Rigi as I head back home again at 1:15 p.m. 

What my hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

All the hikes we have done around Mount Rigi and Mount Zug