June 11, 2021

"Sunshine Trail" from Auressio (Onsernone Valley) to Tegna near Locarno

Sunday June 6, 2021 -- Today was a day where it definitely was better weather south of the Alps! Lucky for us we can look out the window in the morning, see the low rain clouds covering our local mountains, and decide, let's go South! 

We went back to our beloved Onsernone Valley -- we can be there in three hours -- this time for another challenging mountain hike on some rough paths, typical in this densely forested wild valley. Not a lot of views (those we get in winter when there are no leaves on the trees!) except when there is the odd clearing, but then it's beautiful! 

The first part of the trail (which is called "Sentiero del Sole", or "Sunshine Trail") starting in Auressio is one we haven't done before, but the second part, along a long level section which might once have been an irrigation channel is one of our favourites, having done it now for the third time.

(The photos of our Nov.2019 hike on this stretch, with lovely fall colors, can be viewed HERE, and the photos from our Dec.2016 first time on this stretch can be viewed HERE)

A quick pass by St.Anna's Oratorio for a look down into the Terre di Pedemonte from Locarno on Lago Maggiore to Intragna at the entrance to the Centovalli, followed by a speedy descent on a trail made practically solely of flagstones, and we made it once again to the train station in Tegna with just five minutes to spare! (we would have had to wait another 90 minutes for the next train!). {The map shows us 3.5 hours of walking, but it was definitely more than that...}

Oh, and this time I also saw, and photographed, an Emerald Lizard!!


On the bus from Locarno to the Onsernone Valley, this is a familiar view for us, crossing the Melazza River at Intragna, looking East. 

Intragna with the highest church tower in Canton Ticino stands "guard" at the entrance to both the Centovalli (behind it) and the Onsernone Valley, where we are heading. 

Heading into the wonderfully wild Onsernone Valley. The first village we get to on the massively curvy road is Auressio, where we are starting our hike this day. Most people continue to the next village of Loco, to walk the old mule trail back to Intragna. This we have already done before.

Greeted by the ever-surprising palm trees in the village of Auressio

Some lovely colour

More colour. We usually come this way in winter, so the green and the colour is a nice change for us. 

The church in Auressio. From here the trail heads out of the valley.

A quick look around the church grounds and cemetery, before heading in the direction of those green hills. 

From the church courtyard, a look down at the roofs of Auressio, and the deep valley

So much lush green, it's like a jungle

Looking behind us as we head out of the valley. The next village is called Loco

Found this at the bottom of a water fountain, it looked so pretty!

I don't know if the hill across the valley has a name, but there are several small hamlets up there which we have yet to visit!

Heading uphill on the wild and unkempt mountain trail.

We found this rather overgrown property a bit off the trail (and somewhat hidden), and sat on a stone wall near the residence to eat our picnic lunch. The location is called Cima Cratolo

The forest was FULL of large bushes with these yellow flowers, and pea pods. From Internet research, this is probably Scotch Broom (Besenginster)

These are the kinds of "rough" mountain trails we walk in this part of the Ticino

AND... it was Urs who spotted the Wester Green Lizard, which scrambled up the tree. Look at the length of that tail!

And here I am following the lizard around the tree to try to get a good photo!

A beautiful creature which we are always thrilled to come across in these forests

Typical stone houses, and at this time of year the ferns are pretty high!

Urs seems to disappear among the tall ferns

The first clearing where we get a look down at Locarno and the Maggia Delta. By now we're already out of the Onsernone valley, and now heading East above the communities of Terre di Pedemonte below. 

A well-tended set of vacation homes! This little "settlement" is called Nebbio Sotto

What a beautiful spot for a vacation home!

Looking West into the valley, so much green!!

After a long steep descent through the forest, we got to our favourite spot, a level stretch along some cliffs with a couple of tunnels to crawl through. 

Crawling through some tunnels

Another wonderful look into the Terre di Pedemonte below

Walking narrow paths on what might once have been an irrigation system (Suon)

We like this section because there is variety and views

To continue on, the trail takes a detour into the Valle da Riei. This particular descent we've not done before. It was interesting to cross the rock slide.

The sign in Riei shows us that we are still on the "Sentiero del Sole". From here we are descending to Tegna via Oratoria St. Anna, but the train leaves in 60 minutes from now, so not a lot of extra time!

We love this valley of the river Riei. But it looked best in fall when the leaves turned colour and were falling. 

Most of the way to the Oratorio and down to Tegna were on flagstones like this, so we made good time. 

Another nice property with Tessin palm trees

The Oratorio St. Anna is perched high above the villages of the Terre di Pedemonte, and there is of course the very best view from here!


A good look into the Centovalli to the West. 

Intragna, the town at the junction of Centovalli and Onsernone Valley

The view from the terrace in front of the Oratorio St.Anna

A look down at Tegna, where we are ending the hike this time. This is the first time we are ending here. The other two times we walked down to Verscio and Cavigliano, two neighbouring villages on the Centovalli Railway Line. 

The trail was almost solid flagstones like this, it made the descent quick and easy

Back down in Tegna with its lush vegetation.

We got to the train station in Tegna with just a few minutes to spare before the Centovalli train arrived to take us back to Locarno

And on the train ride to Locarno, a look down to the Maggia River below Ponte Brolla, with the gorgeous striated rock formations, carved out by the river. 

Even though the trail maps out at 3.5 hours, it takes at least four hours to walk this stretch, because the terrain can be difficult. On other occasions we started near Cresmino and descended to Cavigliano or Verscio. 

Our excursion on Google Earth Map

Obviously we like to hike around here! It's getting harder and harder to find trails we haven't done yet (which don't require about 1000m of ascent!)


June 9, 2021

Back to Stöcklichrüz in Canton Schwyz: Willerzell to Pfäffikon

(Note: Due to 6 hikes within 9 days, I am only getting around to doing up this album on June 9th, a week after the actual hike)

Tuesday June 1, 2021
-- Two days earlier, on Saturday May 29, Urs and I walked a section of the "Alpine Panorama Trail no.3" from Egg to Lachen in Canton Schwyz (photos are HERE), but I was so disappointed at the lack of view that I determined to come back again (alone) today, on my day off, as the weather this day was to be quite fantastic.

I decided to do a slight variation of the excursion we did on Saturday, so as not to walk exactly the same trail, and yet still starting near Lake Sihlsee and ending on the Lake Zurich side, passing over the peak called Stöcklichrüz, which we crossed on Saturday as well. Besides the better weather, I felt this was a much nicer trail as well, more soft meadow trails and better views (because of the lake).

I started very early, arriving at my starting point of Willerzell before 9 a.m. The plan was to approach the Stöcklichrüz peak from the South instead of the North, via the mountain restaurant Gueteregg where I stopped for refreshments and to bask in the view of the Glarner Mountains which we didn't see before. From there I continued to the Stöcklichrüz from where we could clearly see Mt. Säntis in the far East, and then I descended to the North via the Etzel Pass and St.Meinrad (one of many pilgrim chapels along the St.James Trail) to the nearest bus stop above Pfäffikon. In the end, this excursion was about 30 minutes longer than Saturday's, 4.5 hours (and 15 km!!!), but successfully completed even with going the wrong way twice.

I'd say the only negative aspects were that the beautiful meadows have almost disappeared because the farmers were taking advantage of a 3-day good-weather streak to finally get the grass cut for drying. And the other is that Urs could not be there to enjoy this wonderful hike with me. (Oh, and I also lost a nice jacket on the train....no one has returned it to the SBB lost-and-found yet, a week later).

On Saturday May 29 we walked from Egg via Stöcklichrüz to Lachen. On Tuesday June 1 I walked from Willerzell via Stöcklichrüz direction Pfäffikon. That way I could get the view with the better weather, but not do exactly the same hike....

From Einsiedeln I took a small bus (I was the only passenger!!!) across Lake Sihlsee to the start of my hike in Willerzell on the East side. This view South along Lake Sihlsee already gives me way more view of the mountains than on Saturday!

Start of my hike in Willerzell at 9 a.m. on the East side of Lake Sihlsee (below is the bridge we crossed on the little van-bus)

From here it's only 90 minutes to the restaurant at Güeteregg, which is a little South of Stöcklichrüz. The trail was like this most of the way, an easy, pleasant ascent

With the (finally) 3-day stretch of nice weather, all the farmers are now scrambling to mow and dry the grass for their cows. Leaf-blowers are my nemesis, and we hear them on a lot of our hikes, but it sure makes the work easier for the farmer (than raking by hand, like the ladies are doing).

I barely got a few meters up the hill, when I had to change into my shorts. It's barely after 9 a.m.!

Curious cows are coming to see what I'm up to!

A look down at the village of Willerzell.

A wider look at the region of Willerzell and Sihlsee. Einsiedeln is just over the hill on the right.

The whole ascent was along a type of ridge, where I could see both North and South. Sometimes, you walk through farmyards like this

Walking up along a type of ridge where I can see both to the North and the South

Panorama view to the West

I made good time to the farm at Güeteregg, and stopped here for something to drink

I treated myself to an Einsiedler beer while enjoying the view of the Schwyz and Glarus Alps.

At 11 a.m., there aren't many people here yet. There will surely be more coming for a light lunch!

To the South the Tödi massif (3614m) is well visible (the round-topped one). This is the highest peak in the Glarner Alps

To the North I can see the summit of Stöcklichrüz, which is where I'm headed. In the background is Lake Obersee, the Southern part of Lake Zürich.

Looking behind me as I head North once again, what a spectacular view of the Schwyz and Glarus Alps

Caught on "film", a kestrel hovering over its prey...


VIDEO:
Kestrel getting ready to dive



So now I'm back at the Stöcklichrüz peak....On Saturday we walked from Egg to Lachen, today I started in Willerzell and am going direction Pfäffikon via St. Meinrad

Just my luck, someone is burning something and making the air hazy, but it's still a much better view than a couple of days earlier! Across the valley to the right is the farm at Güeteregg, where I had my beer!

Zoomed view of the farm at Güeteregg, and in the background the Silberen mountains in the Muotathal. 

A couple of days earlier, the snow-capped mountains were hidden in cloud

Many tries until I got this self-timed picture right! Look at all the beautiful mountains in the background, including the two Mythen peaks (town of Schwyz).

To the north a very nice look at Lakes Zurich (on the left) and Obersee (on the right), town of Lachen on the right below, and Pfäffikon just at the isthmus. Across the lake is Rapperswil. 

Zoomed view of the castle at Rapperswil on the opposite side of the lake. 

The view to the East is so clear we can see all the way to Mt. Säntis in the Alpstein

Three days earlier:  So sad.

Now I am heading back down on a bit of an alternate trail, with a view North across Lake Zürich. On Saturday we came up the road in the center of the photo

My trail heads East again, with a view of Lake Sihlsee and the peaks of the two Mythen. Einsiedeln is right behind that hill. 

More lovely soft trails

Approaching the restaurant Chörnlisegg from the South. On Saturday we had lunch there. Very noticeable are the large mowed meadows, where the grass can dry nicely in this heat.

Today is "Ruhetag", or a day off the for restaurant at Chörnlisegg, where we had lunch on Saturday. 

I took this picture to compare to what it looking like on Saturday!

The view on Saturday

After crossing this farmland, I plan to descend in front of that hill on the left, which is the Etzel Pass. 

Busy, busy mowing (and drying) the meadows

A really really nice look at the Mythen mountains from this side.

I missed the turn-off for my trail and took a little detour to this barn. I lost about 15 minutes doing this!!! But cows are always good.

A look down at Lake Zurich

View of the Mythen from St. Meinrad

St.Meinrad at the Etzel Pass. This is one of hundreds of chapels along the St.James Pilgrim Trail. 

St.Meinrad Chapel at the Etzel Pass. In the year 825, a monk named Meinrad from the Reichenau Monastery on Lake Constance, came over this pass and built a small abode here. After 7 years he continued southward in a region that was all forest at the time, and lived for 25 years in the spot where later the huge Einsiedeln Monastery was built.

I took another wrong turn on my descent from the Etzel Pass and ended up having to cross a meadow with hip-high grasses! Good view of Lake Zurich though! from here I had to make my way back to the forest trail. 

End of the trail: A bus stop on the road from Pfäffikon to Schindeleggi. I had already walked for 15 km, and didn't feel like going all the way down to Pfäffikon on the lake...

A 15-km, 4.5-hour hike on my own, and I wasn't even tired and didn't have sore feet! That's because the weather was perfect and the trail was superb....