A hike across the Passwang to Mount Vogelberg and Waldenburg

Wednesday March 10, 2021 -- This weekday off for us was the only day with relatively nice weather, so we took what we could get and did a hike in the northeastern part of Switzerland, in the Swiss Jura hills near the French border. We don't often get to this part of Switzerland, but with the low rolling hills which are the first to become snow-free, it's a good place to hike in spring. Especially when the air is clear, then you have a view across the entire alpine range to the southeast.

Unfortunately for us, the air was not clear, so any views we had were hazy. And the first couple of hours a cold wind was blowing, and one single dark cloud covered the sun. But the first part of our hikes usually involve an uphill climb, so it's OK if it's not too hot. And when we got to the highest point of the hike -- Mt. Vogelberg at 1204m -- we did have sunshine for our picnic lunch, and enjoyed the view south across the Thal Nature Park, through which we had traveled by bus.

The rest of our hike (crossing from Canton Solothurn into Canton Baselland) down to Waldenburg was mostly on narrow ridges which we love to walk along, and by then we were able to really enjoy the afternoon sunshine. At Waldenburg we rode the special very-narrow-gauge railway line to Liestal (the only regular railway line in Switzerland with a 750-mm track gauge, and in operation since 1880!). Neither of us had been on this railway line before, and it turned out to be a well-timed trip: The line is being rebuilt to the standard narrow gauge (1m) and will be shut down from April 2021 to December 2022!!

On the way to the start of our hike, we had 30 minutes to wait for the bus in Balsthal, a community accessed from the south (Olten/Oensingen) through a narrow passage called Clus, in the main Jura chain. So we walked around Balsthal for a bit.

Documents indicate that the Löwen Inn was already in operation in 1459, and would be the oldest building in Balsthal. But it succumbed to a fire in 1751, so this is actually a newer version of the Inn.

A fancy sign advertising for the Gasthaus Löwen (Lion Inn)

A postbus ride then took us from Balsthal through an interesting "bowl" to Mümliswil, and from there to the Alpenblick Hotel at Passwang, where we started our hike. This entire area is one of Switzerland's 18 official nature parks, called the "Naturpark Thal"

We chose this route because it was about four hours of walking between public transport. We had heard that Waldenburg was a town worth seeing, and from there we could ride North with the special railway called Waldenburgbahn. We also took a detour at the start, so that we could spend more time walking along the ridge, and less time along the paved road.

After climbing up from Hotel Alpenblick (we should probably have had a view of the Alps from there, but did not), we did not head directly to Mt. Vogelberg, but rather took a detour so we could walk up this ridge (called Passwang)

Even with the hazy air, we could still see the rolling hills of the Jura mountains.

Heading up the first hill along the ridge

Heading up along the Passwang Ridge toward Mount Vogelberg. This view is to the West.

It is always fascinating to watch the red kites flying

It took us 90 minutes to reach the look-out point on Mt. Vogelberg (30 minutes longer than the more direct route along the paved road). This trail is part of the regional trail no.32: "Via Surprise"

We got the best bench for our picnic lunch.

Panorama view South from Mt. Vogelberg, across the Thal Nature Park. (From here our hike continued along the edge of this cliff, past those other benches!)

A steep vertical drop here.

We had the best bench on the highest point up here.

The sky had turned overcast, but we had some sunshine for our picnic lunch. Behind me is an antenna tower that was undergoing repairs. 

Close-up look of the fellow doing the repairs on the antenna tower!

Heading further East along the Passwang Ridge

A view South to the town of Mümliswil. This whole area is the regional park called Thal Nature Park.

Large sections of the trail were across real crests like this one, so much fun to walk on!

This farm at Waldweid normally serves refreshments on their terrace. But they found a compromise with a self-serve drink machine, and there were people sitting at their picnic tables. 

The final section was along another very distinctive ridge above Waldenburg. The Jura "upheaval" is pretty evident with some pretty cool vertical rock slabs

We can't remember having seen vertical rock slabs like this before. Often at 45 degrees, but seldom completely vertical!

A look down at the newer part of the town of Waldenburg

The first violets of Spring!

Another look at the narrow crest that we are walking on. It was a good, dry trail, but rather difficult to walk on because of the jutting Jura stone.

A short-cut down the hill on an unofficial path

Across the valley above Waldenburg is the old Waldenburg fortress. Another idea for a future excursion!

Checking out the town of Waldenburg. Many of these old towns have town gates.

Walking through the town gate, to have a look at the other side. 

This is actually the entrance side of the town gate

Heading out to the main street.

Here along the river used to be a mill. To the right of the old building is a house called the "Red House" (painted yellow), which was apparently a nickname for inns which accommodated people and animals. This one here has been in existence since the 6th Century

Looking back at the town of Waldenburg as we head north to the train station. This church is unusual in that it was originally built in 1673 by the Basel Hospital to store grain. They sold it to the town of Waldenburg in 1827, and it was converted to a church without a tower. The 4-bell tower was built a few years later as an addition. 

A very ornate sign advertising the Post Restaurant!

Preparing to board the narrow-gauge (only 75cm!) Waldenburg Railway, which commutes between Waldenburg and Liestal. Soon this railway line will be rebuilt into a regular narrow-gauge (1 meter wide) railway line.

Some of the hikes that we have done in northwest Switzerland, in the regions of Cantons Solothurn and Basel Land. (At the top of the image is the Rhine River, which forms the border between Switzerland and Germany)

Our hike in the northwest corner of Switzerland, in the Jura mountains near Basel

On the Rheintal-Höhenweg (Rhine Valley High Trail) to Sargans Castle

Wednesday March 3, 2021 -- They say: "Third Time's a Charm", but not for us! 

We thought this Wednesday was a good time to try the section of the "Rhein Valley High Trail" (Rheintal Höhenweg) from Oberschan to Sargans near the Liechtenstein border, having headed out twice already in that direction last year and then not going through with the plan (one time fog, the other time a better option for the weather).

At Sargans in Eastern Switzerland, the Rhine River heads along the Swiss/Liechtenstein border northwards toward Lake Constance, and the wide open valley here receives lots of sunshine and the snow melts quickly. So hiking up at an altitude of 1000m should have been no problem, which it wasn't, even though there was more snow than we expected.

The problem was with the weather forecast. On Tuesday evening we were promised loads of sunshine till early afternoon. In the morning as we prepared to leave, the forecast had changed to cloudy in the morning, sunny in the afternoon. So we headed out anyway. But WE HAD NO SUNSHINE at all, and there was a cold wind blowing! Which was such a shame, as this trail affords some pretty spectacular views into the Rhine Valley. My dark photos don't do it justice.

But there were a few highlights: 

1) No other people on the trail 
2) Lots of baby cows to "ooh" and "aah" over 
3) We bought locally made sausage at the farm with the cows
4) We saw four large deer, albeit only a glance as they were gone quickly  
5) The forest floors are now blanketed with the cutest snowbell flowers, and even some bear garlic at lower elevations.... a sure sign of Spring!
6) We visited the courtyard of the Sargans Castle (museum doesn't open till April), a prominent landmark which I photograph every time we pass through here

And of course the uphill sections are further training for when we can really go high up into the mountains....

Our hike started in the town of Oberschan, not far from the Swiss/Liechtenstein border. We are heading up the hill past the old mill

A look back at the town of Oberschan where we started our hike

There were several sections on nice forest trails with wooden bridges such as this one.

We were so excited to see these snowbells, some of the first forest flowers here.

Following a section of the Rheintal High Trail, which runs from Lake Constance (into which the Rhine River flows before heading West then North) to Sargans here on the southern end of the trail

Looking down at the village of Oberschan, and the mountains in Liechtenstein just across the border.

At the farm called "Aufstieg" (also a restaurant, but closed because of COVID), we purchased some sausages in their little home shop. 

Spent some time "oohing and aahing" at the fairly new-born calves at the farm here.

A whole "kindergarten" full of calves!

Heading up the hill, the meadows were full of snowbells, as far as the eye could see.

At about the highest point of our hike, we found a convenient little bench for our picnic lunch.

Here at an altitude of about 1000m (not actually that high), we were surprised at how much snow there still is. I am standing on top of the stream on hard-packed avalanche snow, which carried away this wooden bridge.

More snow than expected, but no issues with the trail

More fun bridges to cross

Here in this couloir was more avalanche snow. We are glad it hadn't carried away this particular bridge, because this section would have been harder to cross!

An old barn along the way

A view down to the Rhine River and to Balzers in Liechtenstein

We are actually walking on the East side of the end of the Churfirsten Range

Nice waterfalls along the way, and a good look at how the layers of Earth have shifted.

Another 90 minutes to go to get to the train station in Sargans! By this time (1 p.m.) we had already been "on the trail" for three hours, which includes lunch. Still no sign of the sun.

This fantastic view South along the Rhine Valley in the direction of Chur would be so much nicer if the sun were shining! On the other side of the Rhine River below is the town of Balzers, which is actually in Liechtenstein. 

Looking down at the city of Sargans before our final descent.

When the bear garlic carpets the forest floors, it's a sure sign of Spring! And it smells so good!

Our trail takes us through the grounds of the Sargans Castle. The Museum in the 900-year-old tower is apparently one of the most recommended to visit, but it opens only in April 

From the castle walls, a look down into the old part of the city. We didn't go down that way.

We were excited to see these "spring meadow saffron" flowers here, some of the first flowers that come out after the snow melts, flowers which we usually travel to Canton Valais to see in the spring.

The Chapel of St. Sebastian just below the castle, built in 1502 (tower added in 1718) is named after the patron saint of plagues, probably because this area was hard hit by the black plague pandemic. 

Our 11-km hike started in Oberschan, and ended at the Sargans train station after passing through the Castle Grounds. The Rhine River forms the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein here.

Our trail as viewed on Google Earth Maps

The location of this trail is in the very eastern part of Switzerland, near Liechtenstein

This is what the Sargans Castle looks like from the "front" side, on a summer day!