A hike across the Passwang to Mount Vogelberg and Waldenburg

Wednesday March 10, 2021 -- This weekday off for us was the only day with relatively nice weather, so we took what we could get and did a hike in the northeastern part of Switzerland, in the Swiss Jura hills near the French border. We don't often get to this part of Switzerland, but with the low rolling hills which are the first to become snow-free, it's a good place to hike in spring. Especially when the air is clear, then you have a view across the entire alpine range to the southeast.

Unfortunately for us, the air was not clear, so any views we had were hazy. And the first couple of hours a cold wind was blowing, and one single dark cloud covered the sun. But the first part of our hikes usually involve an uphill climb, so it's OK if it's not too hot. And when we got to the highest point of the hike -- Mt. Vogelberg at 1204m -- we did have sunshine for our picnic lunch, and enjoyed the view south across the Thal Nature Park, through which we had traveled by bus.

The rest of our hike (crossing from Canton Solothurn into Canton Baselland) down to Waldenburg was mostly on narrow ridges which we love to walk along, and by then we were able to really enjoy the afternoon sunshine. At Waldenburg we rode the special very-narrow-gauge railway line to Liestal (the only regular railway line in Switzerland with a 750-mm track gauge, and in operation since 1880!). Neither of us had been on this railway line before, and it turned out to be a well-timed trip: The line is being rebuilt to the standard narrow gauge (1m) and will be shut down from April 2021 to December 2022!!

On the way to the start of our hike, we had 30 minutes to wait for the bus in Balsthal, a community accessed from the south (Olten/Oensingen) through a narrow passage called Clus, in the main Jura chain. So we walked around Balsthal for a bit.

Documents indicate that the Löwen Inn was already in operation in 1459, and would be the oldest building in Balsthal. But it succumbed to a fire in 1751, so this is actually a newer version of the Inn.

A fancy sign advertising for the Gasthaus Löwen (Lion Inn)

A postbus ride then took us from Balsthal through an interesting "bowl" to Mümliswil, and from there to the Alpenblick Hotel at Passwang, where we started our hike. This entire area is one of Switzerland's 18 official nature parks, called the "Naturpark Thal"

We chose this route because it was about four hours of walking between public transport. We had heard that Waldenburg was a town worth seeing, and from there we could ride North with the special railway called Waldenburgbahn. We also took a detour at the start, so that we could spend more time walking along the ridge, and less time along the paved road.

After climbing up from Hotel Alpenblick (we should probably have had a view of the Alps from there, but did not), we did not head directly to Mt. Vogelberg, but rather took a detour so we could walk up this ridge (called Passwang)

Even with the hazy air, we could still see the rolling hills of the Jura mountains.

Heading up the first hill along the ridge

Heading up along the Passwang Ridge toward Mount Vogelberg. This view is to the West.

It is always fascinating to watch the red kites flying

It took us 90 minutes to reach the look-out point on Mt. Vogelberg (30 minutes longer than the more direct route along the paved road). This trail is part of the regional trail no.32: "Via Surprise"

We got the best bench for our picnic lunch.

Panorama view South from Mt. Vogelberg, across the Thal Nature Park. (From here our hike continued along the edge of this cliff, past those other benches!)

A steep vertical drop here.

We had the best bench on the highest point up here.

The sky had turned overcast, but we had some sunshine for our picnic lunch. Behind me is an antenna tower that was undergoing repairs. 

Close-up look of the fellow doing the repairs on the antenna tower!

Heading further East along the Passwang Ridge

A view South to the town of Mümliswil. This whole area is the regional park called Thal Nature Park.

Large sections of the trail were across real crests like this one, so much fun to walk on!

This farm at Waldweid normally serves refreshments on their terrace. But they found a compromise with a self-serve drink machine, and there were people sitting at their picnic tables. 

The final section was along another very distinctive ridge above Waldenburg. The Jura "upheaval" is pretty evident with some pretty cool vertical rock slabs

We can't remember having seen vertical rock slabs like this before. Often at 45 degrees, but seldom completely vertical!

A look down at the newer part of the town of Waldenburg

The first violets of Spring!

Another look at the narrow crest that we are walking on. It was a good, dry trail, but rather difficult to walk on because of the jutting Jura stone.

A short-cut down the hill on an unofficial path

Across the valley above Waldenburg is the old Waldenburg fortress. Another idea for a future excursion!

Checking out the town of Waldenburg. Many of these old towns have town gates.

Walking through the town gate, to have a look at the other side. 

This is actually the entrance side of the town gate

Heading out to the main street.

Here along the river used to be a mill. To the right of the old building is a house called the "Red House" (painted yellow), which was apparently a nickname for inns which accommodated people and animals. This one here has been in existence since the 6th Century

Looking back at the town of Waldenburg as we head north to the train station. This church is unusual in that it was originally built in 1673 by the Basel Hospital to store grain. They sold it to the town of Waldenburg in 1827, and it was converted to a church without a tower. The 4-bell tower was built a few years later as an addition. 

A very ornate sign advertising the Post Restaurant!

Preparing to board the narrow-gauge (only 75cm!) Waldenburg Railway, which commutes between Waldenburg and Liestal. Soon this railway line will be rebuilt into a regular narrow-gauge (1 meter wide) railway line.

Some of the hikes that we have done in northwest Switzerland, in the regions of Cantons Solothurn and Basel Land. (At the top of the image is the Rhine River, which forms the border between Switzerland and Germany)

Our hike in the northwest corner of Switzerland, in the Jura mountains near Basel