From Amden to Weesen at Lake Walensee along the Historical Stairway Trail

Sunday November 10, 2019 -- On Saturday evening after returning from our excursion to the Ticino in the South, we checked the weather forecast again for Sunday: The best weather looked to be in an area east of us which we could reach in about 90 minutes, so we could afford to sleep in on Sunday and check out the webcams in the morning before heading out for the day. After all, at this time of year there is no point in starting too early, as the sun only starts to warm the countryside at about 10 a.m. or later.

Webcam for Amden at 8 a.m. on Sunday. Perfect weather, and there is no snow at the level we planned to hike, starting on the left where the hillside is just starting to get the first morning sun, and then passing through the village of Amden below the chair lift, then heading down to the lake.

As it turns out, the webcam for the area near Lake Walensee showed us little snow and lots of sunshine where we wanted to hike (a wonderful southern exposure), so we made our way toward Amden/Arvenbüel, heading with the bus up to the snow line, from where we descended through some very muddy meadows (rain and snow for two weeks previously, plus it was colder than I expected, 4 degrees) to the village of Amden, from where the trail continued as an "Historical Stairway Trail" down to Weesen at the west end of Lake Walensee.

We took the bus as far up as we could go before getting into snow, then headed down through meadows to Amden, then after some paved road, reached the historical stairway trail down to the main road into Weesen. (The hike took closer to 3 hours than what the map says)

The historical trail was the highlight of the trip. We only found out about it when we got there. This apparently was the only way to get up to Amden and Arvenbüel until 1882 when the road was built. The trail went into disrepair until 2000-2005 when it was restored for pedestrian use. We very much enjoyed descending the long stretch along the warm cliffs for most of the way down to the lake. And at the lake, the first thing we did was wash the mud off our hiking shoes before getting back on the bus!

Heading up by bus from Weesen along Lake Walensee to Amden and Arvenbühl. 

At the second-to-last bus stop before Arvenbühl there was some snow, but the descent was clear. (This view is what the Amden Tourist Bureau uses on their website...)

We did not expect this beautiful meadow to be completely soft, muddy and waterlogged.

Our shoes were so caked in wet mud that our feet felt very heavy!

We spotted a squirrel carrying material to build a winter nest

The hills above Amden

We stopped for our first coffee break in Amden, about 45 minutes after starting our muddy descent from near Arvenbühl. This was our view from the bench near the road.

The farmers who own this land want to make absolutely sure you know exactly where you have to pass!

A look back to where we started, on the other side of Amden, just below the snow along the slope in the middle.

Here the (almost invisible) trail through the meadows was not quite as soft and wet

 

First glimpse of Lake Walensee to the West. That prominent peak above the house is called Mürtschenstock, and it was to the left of that peak that we did the wonderful Murgsee hike in July

 

Just starting to show on the far side of the lake is a peak in the Churfirsten range, nicknamed "The Sleeping Man".

This peak is nicknamed "The Sleeping Man" (for obvious reasons). We have also hiked at the base of this one, across that entire area where there is currently snow (but we hiked in May when the snow was almost gone, of course).

Here we came to the start of the historical Stairway Trail, which we did not know about. It made our day's excursion all of a sudden much more interesting.

This used to be the only way up to Amden and Arvenbühl from Weesen on the lake, until the road was built in 1882.

Heading down the very interesting historical Stairway Trail

Along this cliff wall it was very warm and balmy, not like higher up where we could really feel the cold.

The trail that we descended is also part of the national Route No.3: Alpine Panorama Trail

After getting back to the main road, we had to walk through the avalanche gallery. This is the view down to Weesen and the Linth Canal which heads out of the lake and which was ultimately the goal of our hike. 

The cliffs above the avalanche gallery are popular for rock climbers

And some last hardy forest flowers!

Down near lake level, another good look at the "Sleeping Man", which now looks like a "Sleeping Woman"

We walked down that entire clearing up there starting near the snow patch, then descending along the forest above the gallery, then through the gallery and down to Weesen

Lakefront in Weesen, looking westward along Lake Walensee. Here on a Sunday afternoon there were lots of people. (For the hike down we encountered almost no one, just the rock climbers).

As it was still sunny here and we had some extra time, we walked a short distance along the Linth Canal before catching a bus further away from Weesen. There were also lots of people walking here.

Enjoying the last few rays of sunshine along the Linth Canal at 4 p.m. before catching the bus to Ziegelbrücke.

Another successful hike from Amden/Arvenbühl to Weesen on Lake Walensee (Part of the National Route called "Alpine Panorama Trail").

Also, we have done lots of hiking in this area! Including one winter hike above Arvenbühl (in orange)

This is what the area now looks like, just two days after we were there.

Links to other hikes in this area:

 -- One year ago in November, starting near Amden and hiking parallel to the lake lower down. Photos click here

 -- Early this year in winter we did a lovely winter walk starting in Arvenbüel. Photos click here

Hiking through the Villages above Brissago on Lago Maggiore

November 9, 2019 -- After two weeks of rain and lots of snow in the mountains above 1200m, and really not a single spot in the country where the weather might have been nice to go to on our day off, finally the weather cleared up in the South, our usual go-to place when the weather is bad in the North.

As it turns out, even in the Ticino the mountains get snow (and sometimes in winter even the low-lying areas do), but on this beautiful day the snow-covered peaks looked spectacular against the clear blue of the sky. And it never ceases to amaze me: In this Mediterranean-style climate where palm trees and banana trees flourish, the juxtaposition of the palms and the snowy peaks is a wonder.

We took the bus to its furthest stop from Locarno on the West side of Lago Maggiore, with the intention of walking the additional 600m to the Italian Border, and from there ascending along a steep trail through the forest to high above the town of Brissago, and heading North through the villages that hug the mountainside here, and then returning to Brissago from the North with a final walk along the lakeshore before catching the bus back to Locarno. We were somewhat disappointed to find the trail closed (unstable) and had to return to Brissago along the busy road to the next possible place to ascend, across from the magnificent Madonna di Ponte Church (unfortunately locked, so no viewing of the inside possible) and as it turns out, I enjoyed the ascent probably more this way, as it was a series of stone steps through both modern and old neighbourhoods. And I love climbing stairs. 

After the cold weather to the North, the balmy 12 degrees and sunshine here made for a very pleasant outing. Lots to see, wonderful views, no other people far and wide, enjoying the sunshine at the lake before heading home... a great day all round. 

This is the bus stop furthest South in Switzerland on Lake Maggiore, 600m from the Italian border. After getting to the border and finding the trail closed, we came back this way and walked to the church in the back. From there a series of steps led up the hill.

The mountains look great with their snow-covered peaks against the blue background

And even better are the palm trees with a background of snow-covered mountains!

Back at the church called Madonna di Ponte, we first had a coffee break on a lakeside bench, before heading up the hill (the church was locked, so we could not view the inside)

Madonna di Ponte in Brissago on Lake Maggiore.

Our excursion started with 2 kilometers along the lakeshore road, first to the border, than back again after discovering the trail was closed, and then to the chruch from where we finally got to go up the hill

Finally some enjoyable trails. Lots of steps through both forested sections and villages

View down to the Church Madonna di Ponte

The architecture here consists of lots of stone, both the houses and loads of supporting walls. And many many palm trees. These palms trees can withstand temperatures of up to minus 10 degrees.

Another glimpse over the rooftops and palm trees toward the Brissago islands and Locarno to the North. 

Lots of wonderful stonework

Loads of steps and stairways on the pedestrian trail

Cobbled walkways through the old village cores. This village is called Piodina

The alleyways through Piodina above Brissago

The Piazza in Piodina with the view South into Italy along Lago Maggiore (we are right on the border here, i.e. the mountains on the left are in Italy)

Another view across the rooftops of Piodina

After 30 minutes through a shady forested section we came to Incella. To reach these buildings we had to head down into what looked like a cellar

This alley looks like it heads into someone's cellar, but it was actually a street into a whole other set of buildings in the village. It was very cool!

The town fountain.

   

Another forested section took us into this ravine and around this church called "Madonna del Sacro Monte", build on a small promontory in the early 1700's. I'd never seen anything quite like it.

Unfortunately, it was also locked so we could not go see the inside 

And the view from the back side, looking out toward the lake

Another view South along Lago Maggiore

Good view of the "Isole di Brissago". There is a botanical garden on the large of the two islands that is accessed with public boat in summer

Isole di Brissago

Heading back down to Brissago. A large part of our ascent and descent was on steps such as these

Admiring this very lush banana tree. It even had a small bunch of bananas!

Down at the lake we had time to enjoy another coffee break in the sunshine before heading to the bus stop

The lake promenade in Brissago. Very few other people out and about. The restaurants here are closed for the season.

How lovely to still have splashes of colour at this time of year

Some lovely flowers still blooming at this time of year.

This recently renovated 18th century building called "Casa Bianchini" was probably the most interesting building in Brissago.

 

Church tower Brissago. At 15:00 this side of the lake was soon in shadow, and it was a good time to head back home.

Our little round tour in the communities above Brissago on Lago Maggiore. These villages always have so much variety.

This is how we chose our destination for the day. We look at this weather forecast the night before, and where there is "pure sunshine" or the small cloud is where we go the next day.