Hiking in Switzerland – Gabrielle and Urs

November 21, 2018

Continuing on the Senda Sursilvana Trail from Disentis

Wednesday November 21, 2018 -- The only place with a little sunshine in the forecast was in the Vorderrhein Valley, high in the Alps where the Rhine River has its source near Andermatt, so we planned a walk along the Senda Sursilvana trail (also part of the St.James Trail or Jakobsweg), continuing where we left off last time... But although it was OK for a train ride, by the time we started on our walk it was cold and uncomfortable. Plus the alpine landscape in its in-between stage (not summer, not fully snowed-over) is simply bleak and dreary, especially when the clouds pull over the sky, which is what ended up happening.

The highlight of the town of Disentis is St. Martin's Abbey, which we'd never been in before so that was the plan, which as it turns out will have to wait another year or two because apparently they have been renovating the monastery since 2016. (History: first construction in the year 700, and refurbished in the current Baroque style in the 17th century. Cost of the renovation is about 15 million Francs)

Since we'd already come this far, we went on our planned walk, parallel to the Rhine River (here called the Vorderrhein in German and Rein Anteriur in the local Raetoromanisch language) but we only completed about 8 km before getting back on the train heading home through the Rhine Gorge, which is the site of one of the largest landslides in the World's History that happened about 10,000 years ago (we have walked the gorge trail a few years ago)

I will wait till summer again to continue on this trail, it's just more enjoyable....

Our excursion started with a train ride South along the Reuss Valley toward Göschenen. This village of Wassen is always a treat to view out of the train window

From Göschenen a steep cogwheel train takes you up to Andermatt, a popular ski resort, from where the train winds back and forth to the Oberalp Pass. This view is across Andermatt to the SW along the Ursuren Valley.

Heading East toward the Oberalp Pass

VIDEO:

Riding the train toward the Oberalp Pass

Along Lake Oberalpsee. The Pass is straight ahead, in the sun. And not far from there is Lake Tomasee, the source of the Rhine River

Lake Oberalpsee at the Oberalp Pass. For now, the weather looks promising!

Approaching Disentis, the start of our hike, with its Baroque Church, currently under renovation.This location is 900m lower than the Pass, thus less snow....

Not possible to view the inside of St.Martin's because of renovations

Starting at about 11:15 in Disentis, we ended this 7½-kilometer walk shortly before 2 p.m. at the train station in Sumvitg/Cumpadials. Had the day been sunnier and warmer, we would have continued along the trail for longer, as there are several bus stops and train stations along the way.

As this trail is part of the St.James trail through Canton Graubünden, we pass a lot of churches and chapels along the way. This one has an unusual "round" shape.

Another little chapel below the road in Madernal.

Walking parallel to the young Rhine River, here called Vorderrhein or Rein Anteriur. (In English = Anterior Rhine).

We passed through a couple of small villages. This one, Cumpadials, was the end of the hike for us, only 8 km from Disentis.

Antique Fire Engine on skis

Cumpadials, Canton Graubünden (Grisons)

We got to the station with just one minute to spare, which is how we usually manage it.

Getting back on the Rhätian Railway train to continue toward Chur along the Rhine Gorge

As the train passes the town of Trun, we see several other churches which we'd like to look at some day in the future, when the weather is warmer!

An interesting-looking chapel across from the train station in Trun.

A lovely stretch of railway through the Rhine Gorge

This Gorge is only accessible on foot or by train. It is the site of one of the largest landslides in the World's History

The Rhine Gorge (Ruinaulta) near Versam

Following the Rhine River (Vorderrhein)

The sign indicates the High Water Mark in July 1987. This is shortly before Tamins

This was the third section of the Senda Sursilvana Trail that we have done. Both other times were also in late Fall / Winter. Next section will be in Spring, when the meadow flowers are blooming!

November 14, 2018

Second Time on the Olive Trail along Lago di Lugano (Lake Lugano)

Wednesday November 14, 2018 -- With my unfathomable inability to properly download or read a bus schedule, we once again had to resign ourselves to a Plan B, in this case a repeat of a short and easy walk we did in early Spring, but nevertheless pleasant, warm and enjoyable.

The original plan was to cross the border into Italy near Lugano on Lake Lugano (in the direction of Lake Como) to visit some Italian villages and castles on the sunny hillside there. But because the buses across the border are few and far between, taking the next one (after waiting at the wrong bus stop and watching our bus pass by not 100m from where we were standing) meant starting too late in the afternoon. But no matter, as we had just walked for 5 km around the city of Lugano, so starting from Gandria just this side of the border and walking back to Lugano (another 5 km) along the pleasant Olive Trail was just fine.

This North side of Lake Lugano has such a wonderfully sunny exposure that it is almost like being on the Mediterranean: Once again, as the flatlands in the North wallowed in fog, we were walking in short sleeves and the equivalent of shorts, just a 3-hour ride from home.

Last time we were here we learned a lot about olive cultivation, and this time we even got to see them harvesting.... bringing down the olives with toy-sized rakes. It was kind of weird....

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, just below the train station in Lugano. We started with a visit to this cathedral

I've seen St.Peter's in the Vatican, and this is just as impressive, minus the masses of tourists!!!

Just as beautiful as St.Peter's in the Vatican!

Heading to the lake through the sloping streets of Lugano

Fine foods in Lugano

This unassuming church (Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angioli) in the middle of banks and hotels contains a famous mural painted in the Renaissance period.

This huge mural painted by Bernardino Luini (contemporary of Leornardo da Vinci) in 1529 is the most famous fresco of the Renaissance period in Switzerland

We walked along the lakefront past the palace and the park on the right, where we caught a bus to Gandria, 5 km further along the lake, and walked back again.

Just like when we were in Sicily

Walking along the lakeshore in the warm sunshine with a view to the distinctive profile of Monte San Salvatore

Walking through the Olive Groves of Gandria (in the background are the villages in Italy we had originally planned on visiting)

This is how olives are harvested

Olives are apparently not edible unless they are marinated

Gandria on Lake Lugano

Walking through the cool corridors of Gandria on the Olive Trail

This is my favourite place along the lakeshore trail

So warm we can walk in short-sleeves and no leggings

Along the way are public gardens called "The Olive Gardens" built on a steep hillside with many terraces and benches, where one can spend a peaceful afternoon

This has happened to us many times this year. Officially, the trail continues on the other side of the gate, which is locked. We had planned to continue upwards from the Olive Garden, but had to go back to the lakeshore path.