The Steepest Funicular in the World: Stoos Bahn

December 27, 2017 -- Today's excursion: Just a hop, skip and jump (30 km) over to the newly-opened (Dec.15th) STEEPEST (110%) funicular in the world! 

Up till now the steepest funicular in Switzerland, The Gelmer Funicular in Canton Bern, was also the steepest in Europe, with a gradient of 106%. This one, like other funiculars, runs on a fairly consistent slope, so the wagons are built with separate compartments or rows of seats with the floors slightly staggered but always parallel to the ground.

But in the case of the Stoos bahn, the access to the high plateau requires varied gradients, so this engineering marvel consists of four cylinders which rotate as the train moves, keeping the floors of each individual cylinder parallel to the ground while the sled they are in moves what seems like almost vertically up the cliff face. Leave it to the Swiss to come up with crazy ideas to get up their mountains....

Unfortunately for us, the day changed quickly from sunshine in the morning to dark clouds and fog as we got up the mountain, plus it had rained and frozen recently, so all the snow was hard and very slippery. There were still many skiiers on the slopes, but when you have vacation, I guess you take what you can get.

We had expected snow and planned a winter hike through snowy forests, but it was simply cold and slippery, so after a short 3 km loop, we headed back home. But watching the new funicular was worth the trip.

From below at the base station of the Stoos Funicular, the new funicular rises at an angle of 48 degrees 750 altitude meters to the village of Stoos on the upper plateau. 

The funicular bridge crosses the reservoir of the Muota River before rising up the steep cliff-face.

At the summit station of the railway, it looks like the tracks disappear right into the two Mythen Peaks.

Large Mythen and Small Mythen, Canton Schwyz, Switzerland

We were lucky, we had some views before the clouds and fog moved in. The dark sky gives a special quality to the photos.

Watching the funicular arrive at the summit station

 

Watching the funicular arrive at the summit station

 

There is only a slight incline at the summit, but you can see the slight rotation in the cylinders, so that the floor stays horizontal.

Each cylinder holds 34 people, but in winter they carry fewer people because of skis and sleds.

Advertising the funicular "the steepest funicular in the world". 

There was no sun, it was cold and windy, so we cut our walking plans short and did a 3-km loop. Then the fog moved in and it was a good time to descend anyway.

Back at the bottom at the Muota River, we watched the funicular for a bit as it did a couple more of its 4-minute, 1700-m trips.

A few of the many Swiss Funiculars we have been on (my photos)

Christmas Eve Day Winter Hike in Lenzerheide

December 24, 2017 -- This year, there has been lots of snow, not like the past two years. But the way the Alpine weather works (or so it seems), the warm Fön wind blows from the South and sends rain to melt the snow and turn it to mush. So in between, when the weather is nice, and especially after it has just snowed again, you have to take advantage of the winter landscape.

On Christmas Eve Day we had such weather, but the snow at lower elevations was pretty soft. So we went into the ski hills for our winter walk, which isn't always ideal, because the walking trails often cross the ski runs, and you have to be very careful... and also at the ski restaurants, the music blasting extra loud out of specially-mounted speakers carries far and rather ruins the peaceful landscape. (I still don't understand the necessity of the loud music on the ski hills in winter...)

On the Lenzerheide Panorama Trail we had a bit of both: Bothersome music at the start as we got off the cable car from Churwalden in the valley bottom, but after crossing the ski runs and walking around the first hill, we settled into the peaceful landscape. I was thrilled that the snow had not fallen off the branches yet, so we got to enjoy that "Winter Wonderland" on this splendid sunny day. 

The entire panorama trail was only about 7 km long, so after a lovely meal of local Grisons dishes in the mountain restaurant, we opted to walk the additional 3 km downhill to Lenzerheide instead of taking the chair lift. By this time of the afternoon (2:30 pm) this side of the valley was in shadow, but it was a pleasant descent none-the-less....

Our tour started with a cable car ride from Churwalden

Arosa/Lenzerheide is a popular ski area (Arosa is in the next valley to the East, and the two ski areas are joined by cable cars)

From the Heidbühl cable car station we first had to cross the ski slopes, then walked 7 km to Tgantieni where we had lunch, before descending another 3 km to Lenzerheide

Crossing the ski slopes was a bit tricky

I was glad the trees were still heavy with snow. After one day like this, the snow drops off.

 

The trail is well-groomed and easy to walk on.

It was a very beautiful and enjoyable winter walk on the Lenzerheide Panorama Trail. 

Taking a coffee break looking down at Lenzerheide.

There was a little restaurant here, but we had a different one in mind, at the end of the Panorama Trail. (The peak in the back is Mount Lenzerhorn)

This is the little restaurant we DID NOT stop at. (Spoina). Although the terrace sure looked inviting!

There were a couple of fairly steep sections. It is definitely easier to do this in summer.

The mountains in the background are called the Parpaner Rothorn, Weisshorn and Schwarzhorn, and behind them is a fairly new cable car that you can ride into the next valley over. It connects the two ski areas Lenzerheide and Arosa.

Below is the city of Lenzerheide. Our walk down took us past the reservoir lake.

At the Restaurant Tgantieni for a super lunch, local dishes. What I had is called Pizzocheri, it's a pasta made with buckwheat. In this area they speak Romansch, the only place in the world it is spoken (in Canton Grisons). "Bainvegni" is Romansch for "Welcome"

Last rays of sunshine before heading down the shadowing hillside to the valley. It's 2:30 pm.

Across the valley, Mount Parpaner Rothorn. That is a restaurant up there. (Accessed by cable car, of course).

7 km on the Lenzerheide Panorama Trail from Heidbühl to Tgantieni, then 3 km downhill to Lenzerheide. On the map you can see all the ski lifts including the one at the top right which takes you into the Arosa Valley to the East.

First Real "Winter" Hike near the San Bernardino Pass

December 20, 2017 -- I've never been to the San Bernardino Pass but it's a hike we plan for the summer of 2018. The pass road from the Mesolcina Valley to the Hinterrhein Valley is closed in winter, but vehicles can pass from one valley to the other via the 6.5-km long San Bernardino tunnel, entering from the South at the resort village of San Bernardino.

The fastest way for us to get there is to first go South through the Alps, then North again by bus along the Moesa river, past the village of Mesocco and up toward the pass. 

There are two loop trails advertised as "winter hikes" (which means the trails are prepared for easy walking with pink sign posts that make it impossible to go the wrong way) and we started with the 4-km Pont Nef loop to the North, advertised as "probably the most beautiful and varied route in San Bernardino". We were rather surprised, though, that there were no direction markers, and we had to rely on our Internet map and GPS to make sure we went the right way. And the trail was covered in snow drifts (the North wind was blowing cold!) and we sunk to our knees at places... Not quite what we expected from an official winter trail.

Back in San Bernardino we inquired at the Info Center. "The Pont Nef Trail....." we stated, and the man there, without awaiting our question, finished off our comment: ".... opens tomorrow".  Ah, well that explains a lot... (we joked about us "blazing the trail" for the next winter hikers!)

The second (6 km) loop to the East of the Village was better prepared, a wide track crossing the ski hill and descending through ideal winter forests, but the climb into the North Wind was harrowing. But still and all, the winter panorama in the Alps is always magnificent. 

Interesting Note: The prominent mountain here, Piz Uccello (translates to Bird Mountain or Vogelberg in German) is so distinctive that in the past, the pass used to be called "Mons Avium", Latin for Bird Mountain Pass. There are mineral baths here which used to be a favourite destination for wealthy Italians. 

Heading into the Mesolcina Valley by bus from Bellinzona

Mesolcina Valley, Canton Grisons

 

In the Mesolcina Valley. Here and there are palm trees in the snowy landscape!

Arriving at our destination: Village of San Bernardino South of the San Bernardino Pass

Starting in the village center, we first did the 4 km Pont Nef Loop, which is above the San Bernardino Tunnel. It took us an hour and a half, because we broke through the snow a lot.

Heading up the San Bernardino Pass Road, which is only cleared up to the camping ground. After that, the winter trail follows the Pass road for the first half of the loop. The distinctive mountain on the left is Piz Uccello (Bird Mountain)

It was a gorgeous day but there was a very cold North Wind blowing!

At the top of the loop is the bridge from which the trail gets its name: Pont Nef (=New Bridge) built in 1864 (financed by the Kinf of Sardinia) to replace an old decrepit one. Too bad we can't see it better.

At this point we can't tell which trail to take. Our map showed the one to the left, but on that one we ran into deep drifts, so we back-tracked and took the lower one.

Heading back to San Bernardino. (Our second hike after returning to the village is above the forested area up ahead)

Several sections of the trail were covered with snow drifts like this one. Makes it hard to judge how deep you will sink in!

Just before getting back to San Bernardino, we glanced behind us to the North, for another look at Piz Uccello.

We had a picnic lunch on the steps of this church, which unfortunately was locked. From here we headed South through the village for another hike on this hillside.

The second loop was 6 1/2 km and took us 2 hours 15 mins. Uphill into the North Wind was tough.

Nothing more beautiful than dense forests thickly coated in snow.

This view is to the North, toward the San Bernardino Pass, with Piz Uccello on the right. The low strip of clouds is apparently a common phenomenon here, as the air gets pushed southward from the Hinterrhein Valley to the North.

Near the San Bernardino Pass

"Alp de Pian Doss", the last sunny portion of our hike before heading through the shady forests back down to San Bernardino. It is 2:30 pm.

Looking South down the Mesolcino Valley on our bus ride back to Bellinzona.

Two winter trails (loops), total 11 km, takes about 3 hours 45 minutes total. 

To get to the San Bernardino Pass, we travel South through the Alps (longest railway tunnel in the world) to Bellinzona, and from there Northward by bus through the Mesolcino Valley.