Looking for Pozze in the Valle Verzasca

September 6, 2017 -- Our regular Wednesday off, nice weather only in the South, so off we go again, to one of our favourite places ever, the Verzasca Valley. It is stunning and never boring, no matter how often we go.

This time we were looking for secluded mountain pools (Pozze, in Italien) created by waterfalls, of which there are many here, but to reach them you have to climb steep hills, and if you want to find really secluded ones, you have to find the unofficial trails, some of them so unofficial they don't even exist (in other words, straight up slippery leaf-strewn slopes with little hope of getting back down!)

So with two uphill hikes, one on each side of the Verzasca River, we discovered so many lovely pools, some too cold and too mighty to attempt to enter, others smaller and "warmer" (relatively speaking) and worth the freezing dip. And most of all, sunshine and no rain!

The Verzasca River at Motta. We ended up hiking on each side to look for waterfall pools.

First a "photo shoot" beside the clear turquoise waters of the Verzasca River

Heading South to the first waterfall in the gap ahead. Our first 200m uphill hike was straight up throught the forest parallel to the river.

Straight up through the forest (no trail) to the first set of pools (Luckily we saw the "unofficial" trail on the map, for the way down)

Finally found the first pool. I was here 30 years ago. But there was less water at the time.

The spray from the waterfall was too cold so we decided not to stay long.

As beautiful as this was, we were a little wary about trying to go in for a swim. Also, IT WAS COLD!

Over hundreds (thousands?) of years, the water carves out these rock-cut basins. This is fascinating.

Back down at the Verzasca River, I tried the river water.... also too cold! In the background is Motta, we are headed up above there, 250m straight up.

Back down at the Verzasca River before heading back across the bridge and up above Motta.

200m uphill above the road was a second pool we knew of. We actually covered the height in only 30 minutes. Because it's so steep, you gain altitude quickly.

Along the steep narrow trail above Motta, heading to the second set of pools.

We knew of this pool from a previous hike we did here in the spring.

This one was slightly less cold, so we gave it a try. But only slightly less cold!

Slightly higher was another set of waterfalls and pools, so we also checked that out.

Here is a series of terraces, pools and waterfalls.

300 m almost straight up from the road are a series of waterfalls and pools, which we also checked out.

300 m almost straight up from the road are a series of waterfalls and pools, which we also checked out.

300 m almost straight up from the road are a series of waterfalls and pools, which we also checked out.

What a wonderful location for a vacation home. 

Time to head back to the Verzasca River to catch the bus back out of the valley. The sunny spot in the back, that's where we went up to find the first pool.

Back down at the river in Motta, where we can catch the bus back out of the valley.

A last glimpse way up to the peaks from which come the waters for that last set of pools.

Irrigation Channels Bineri and Eggeri above Grächen, Canton Valais

September 5, 2017 -- We had five days of vacation recently, and what I really wanted to do was spend the whole time in Canton Valais in a vacation home, doing daily hikes in the area, for example to the Great St.Bernard Pass (where I have never been), maybe to Chamonix to see Mont Blanc, a suspension bridge hike near the Aletsch Glacier, a 5-lake hike near the Matterhorn, and so much more. 

The first week in September should be ideal for this, but we had a late August cold front pass through, with snow down very low, and the only nice day in the Valais was on Tuesday. So we did spend the day there, but had to give up any idea of going above 2000 m, as 4-7 degrees was simply too cold for me.

Instead we chose an irrigation channel hike, which we like to do as well, as the flumes and channels are fascinating, and it is pleasant to walk next to the running water. In the mountain village called Grächen are four lines of irrigation channels, the largest and most popular line being the "Eggeri" trail, so that's what we went for. What a disappointment that apparently the water source had been "turned off" or diverted somewhere, and the ditch was empty! No babbling water to accompany the hike, which would have been rather boring otherwise.

So we cut the hike short (originally planned 14 km, reduced to 10 km) and returned via a smaller and prettier irrigation channel where the water was running! But we couldn't complain about the weather: at 1800m it was sunny and pleasant, and we did get a peek at the peak of the Matterhorn, lovingly called "The Horn" in these parts.

Old house on raised mushroom posts, typical of this area.

Beautiful slate slab roofs

Looking over the town of Grächen and South along the Matter Valley. At the very back on the left, we can just see the peak of Mount Matterhorn.

Zoomed view of the peak of the Matterhorn, known in this area simple as "The Horn"

Just 3 km into our hike it was lunchtime, so we stopped at this pretty terrace restaurant with a view across the valley to Embd.

Lunch at the "Jägerstube" on their view terrace.

Looking North toward the Rhone Valley.

At the northernmost point of our hike, this is a view into the Matter Valley, which joins the Rhone Valley at the back. The city of Visp lies at the joining of the two valleys.

After lunch we ascended 100m to the Eggeri irrigation line, which normally brings water from the glacier at the back, but on this day the water must have been diverted, because the ditches were empty.

After a 100m uphill hike we join the Irrigation Trail heading South

I would not like to pass through a field of these Val d'Herens fighting cows, typical cows of this area.

 

After all the effort to get here, there was no water in the channels. We continued for about 4 km in the hopes there would be water SOMEWHERE, and then gave up. 

After all the effort to get here, there was no water in the channels. We continued for about 4 km in the hopes there would be water SOMEWHERE, and then gave up. 

On a lower irrigation trail, the water was running, which made the hike back to Grächen more enjoyable.

On a lower irrigation trail, the water was running, which made the hike back to Grächen more enjoyable. The trail itself was more interesting as well.

Back at the village of Grächen with its pretty homes.

Two Days at Lake Como in Italy

September 3&4, 2017 -- First week of September we took some days off work for hiking, but the weather didn't play along for us this time. With a recent cold front that brought snow and cold weather to low altitudes we opted for a warmer climate at Lake Como, in Italy.

Now, my blog is called "Hiking in Switzerland", so the hikes we did at Lake Como don't really qualify as hikes in Switzerland, but since the city of Como and the Southern part of the lake are only 5 km from the Swiss border, I am including the account of our trip here.

We had read a couple of things about Lake Como: 1. That the village of Varenna on the eastern shore across from Bellagio is one of the prettiest villages on the lake, 2. That Bellagio is a city where you can possibly run into George Clooney (not in the least interesting to us) and 3. That George's summer Villa is in Laglio on the lake, just 13 km North of Como.

So we arranged for an interesting and well-priced Air BnB accommodation in a 17th Century Villa near Menaggio (actually, in Barna, an hour's hike from the lake) and took a 3-hour boat ride on the lake, admiring the beautiful villas and villages along the way (and because I take so many pictures, turned out I did photograph George Clooney's Summer Villa). .... (read on below...)

In 3 hours from our front door we can be in Como... from there 2+ hour boat ride to Varenna...

In Como, we first had to walk 1 km from the train station to the boat docks

All along the lake, pretty villages such as Torno

This is George Clooney's Villa (Villa Oleandra, it's on Google maps) in Laglio.

Other stunning lakefront villas

This could be the Ligurian Coast of Italy, except it's sweet water, and not the Mediterranean.

Those peaks should not yet have snow. The cold weather early September is unusual.

It was a very pleasant day for a boat ride on Lake Como (the boat was empty after everyone descended in Bellagio).

We skipped visiting Bellagio, and had lunch (pizza) and gelato (of course) in the truly picturesque village of Varenna (unfortunately on this beautiful Sunday afternoon, likewise beloved by Americans and Italians vacationing in the area), but never mind, it was a lovely stop. Reminded me so very much of Cinque Terre, I could almost picture myself on the Ligurian Coast. .... (read on below...)

Approaching the boat dock North of Varenna

In Varenna, Italy. We had lunch on a lakefront terrace.

 

In Varenna, Lake Como, Italy

The narrow steep alleyways of Varenna

There were cushions on the stairs in the alley next to the gelato shop, especially for their patrons

 

Heading back to the boat docks. Lots of people coming and going along this lake promenade.

From Varenna, another short boat ride back to the West side of the lake to Menaggio, and then an hour's hike to Barna, where our lovely hosts Gabriella and Nicola were waiting for us. We loved our stay at their home (built in 1661) which they are renovating, with the large sunny room, the old painted wood ceilings, the huge stone fireplaces, and a restful sleep, even though I'd just found a scorpion in the shower.... (read on below...)

As we approached Menaggio, we saw a church high on the cliff and decided that this is where we wanted to hike to the next day.

A quick walk around the lakeside village of Menaggio before walking an hour to the village of Barna

In Menaggio, Lake Como, Italy

We hiked the 4 km up to the village of Barna in just over an hour

On the way up to Barna, a view of Bellagio on the isthmus on Lake Como

This lovely house we saw as we entered the small plaza in front of Villa "Le Bucoliche"

In front of our beautiful accommodation in Barna, Italy

Some lovely details of this villa, dating from 1661. On the left, our bedroom door.

 

Villa Le Bucoliche in Barna, and our lovely hosts Gabriella and Nicola

*** Interesting bit of information. In this area of Northern Italy and Southern Switzerland there are SCORPIONS! Yes, scorpions, although their sting is similar to that of a wasp. Still, a bit of a shock to find one in the shower, the first time I've ever seen one! It's a bit like when a big hairy spider crawls out of the drain....

Next morning, we climbed up to a nearby church we had seen from the boat the day before, built along a steep cliff, with a wonderful view down both Southern branches of the lake. The sky was overcast and the air a bit humid, but it was worth the climb anyway. .... (read on below...)

Our hike to and from Chiesa San Martino was 4 km but required an ascent of 450m !

There it is, Chiesa San Martino high up on the cliff face!

Starting on our hike up to the Church, San Martino, with great expectations of fantastic views!

Unfortunately that castle below is private property, so we could not walk through their grounds

It was very overcast, but we still got a nice view from up here

After returning to the lake we had about 30 mins. till the bus came, so I sat at the lake amazed at how much this reminded me of Cinque Terre.. and my husband brought me a little macchiato from the lakeside snack bar!!

 
We lucked out with our bus and train connections, taking a hair-raising bus ride from Menaggio along Lake Lugano (the bus driver slowed down considerably after he crossed the Swiss Border, it was VERY noticeable). We were back home in just over three hours! ....  

Back in Lugano, this is Monte San Salvatore. We hiked over this mountain earlier this year.