Hiking in Switzerland – Gabrielle and Urs

August 16, 2017

In and out of the Erstfelder Valley from the Reuss Valley

Three hikes in four days, and each a bit different than the rest....

August 16, 2017 -- Wednesday, our day off. We decided to discover a new valley close to where we live. Another side valley off the Reuss Valley. It was wild and the trail was barely 20-30 cm wide and very steep for most of the way into the valley, and the rain we'd had every evening for the last few days made walking difficult on the slippery larch needles and rocks that covered the trail. This kind of trail would cause us little problem in dry conditions, but on this day we had to be very careful...

So we just went very slowly. And the effort was so worth it, as we emerged from the forest into the back of the valley, with its steep jagged peaks and waterfalls, glacier and glacier river, alpine meadows and houses built to withstand avalanches, and even a herb garden and little self-serve outdoor curio cabinet where we purchased a little jar of AlpRose honey.

And best part was, the excursion started with one of those fun cable cars yet again (our plan is to try them all out) to cover the steep height. To return to the Reuss Valley, we walked back out of the Erstfelder Valley parallel to the river, right down to where it stunningly flows into the Reuss River, its milky glacier waters markedly separating from the blue waters of the Reuss River.

Another unique cable car, of which there are many in Canton Uri. You have to phone up to the operator to get a ride.

View into the Reuss Valley and Schächen Valley from above Erstfeld.

Reuss River at Erstfeld, where the longest train tunnel in the world enters the mountains.

Up here lives the elderly lady, the operator of the Wilerli cable car. It runs all year, even in winter.

Our 9 km hike took us to the back of the Erstfeld Valley along a very narrow forest path on a steep mountain flank, and then down and out the other side.

The narrow forest trail was very slippery after the rains we had had.

Emerging from the forest, these steep hillsides are simply stunning.

Looking West into the Erstfeld Valley

Looking East out of the Erstfeld Valley toward the Reuss Valley

To the North.

The homes here are all built to withstand avalanches (built into the hillside).

Behind the waterfall and way up to the left is a Swiss Alpine Club hostel. A trip for another day or year.

The glacier river runs mightily here

A pleasant surprise to find a herb garden up here.

Self-serve homemade syrups and honeys (the one I'm holding we purchased and have yet to try: Alp Rose Honey). The second little "shop" we passed on the way down, in a section of the valley with very high danger of rock slides, and "Absolutely no stopping allowed"...

This is the furthest up the valley we went, it's time to head back down to Erstfeld, on the other side of the river.

On our own little glacier river beach. The water is almost white.

Heading back down out of the Erstfeld Valley.

Once in a while I turn around for another last glimpse up this magnificent valley.

This strange creature is called a Slowworm, which is actually a legless lizard.

The trail out of the valley was also pretty narrow and wild and wet from the rain, with some very steep slopes.

Finally back in Erstfeld in the Reuss Valley

Here the glacier river joins the Reuss River. The separation of the waters is pretty evident.

All the hikes we have done in this area in the past four years.

August 15, 2017

Gorges, Lakes and Monasteries in the Land of Gruyère

Three hikes in four days, and each a bit different than the rest....

Tuesday August 15, 2017 -- In some of the Swiss Cantons (only the Catholic ones), August 15th is a holiday (Assumption of Mary), so that means another opportunity for an excursion. This time, something not so strenuous, since I had twisted my ankle on the hike two days earlier, and wasn't too sure of it. And uphill for a change.

We traveled to the land of Gruyère again, to finish a piece between two trails we had done there before. Our day included a one-hour hike through the "Gorges de la Jogne", along the lake "Lac de Montsalvens", then with a cable car up the hill for lunch at a simple restaurant with a view over the Gruyère Region, then back down and on to the La Valsainte Monastery.

(This monastery is a Charter House, the only remaining functioning Cartusian Monastery in Switzerland. Founded in 1294, the monks who live here live in almost total silence, each individual in his own little cell-like room, receiving visits from family only twice per year. They don't have any particular spiritual doctrine. They believe the key to Cartusian spirituality is solitude. The monastery is not open to the public).

It wasn't one of our most exciting excursions: The gorge wasn't as stunning as I'd hoped, and we didn't see much of the lake along the way. And for me, too many people on the trail, as it was a holiday in this area as well, so there were many familes on the trail. We prefer hiking higher up in the mountains, but this was a good choice for my foot, plus it started to rain just as we finished the hike...

Heading by train to Broc, you pass the Chateau de Gruyère

This is the Cailler Chocolate Factory in Broc. You can tour the factory (museum etc., but probably not where the chocolate is REALLY made), but we didn't do that.

Cailler Chocolate Factory in Broc, near Gruyère

The cute train station in Broc.

The 13-km hike (always slightly uphill) from Broc to La Valsainte took us 3.5 hours. We interrupted the hike at Charmey, where we took a cable car to the hill called Vanoutse, and had lunch there before descending and continuing up the valley.

Les Gorges de la Jogne, first part of the hike. This took one hour to cross.

Although not as exciting as other gorge hikes we have done, there were many interesting geological formations to observe.

This is the end of the gorge. From here it is steep uphill to the dam at Lac de Montsalvens

The dam at Lac de Montsalvens

The dam at Lac de Montsalvens, looking into the gorge

The dam at Lac de Montsalvens. Behind the first hill is the town of Charmey, and behind that, right in the center, is Vanoutse, where we had lunch.

Crossing the lake on the suspension bridge, right before Charmey

Charming buildings in Charmey

Taking the cable car from Charmey to Vanoutse for lunch

View from Vanoutse across the Gruyère landscape. Below is the Lac de Montsalvens and behind it the Gorges de la Jogne.

Heading back down by cable car to Charmey

From Charmey we head North toward La Valsainte monastery. It looks like rain, and the farmers are madly collecting the hay that had been drying in the fields. (The view is Southward with the distinct peak of Le Moléson)

Zoomed view of La Valsainte Carthusian Monastery with its typical cell-like houses where the monks live in semi-solitude.

Last crossing of the river before heading up to the monastery

At the monastery, you can walk around the courtyard and visit the chapel (behind me) but no other access is allowed.

Our friend from a year earlier is actively handing out a beautiful book about the Carthusian Monks. I told him we already had one and loved it. I think he really wanted me to take another one!

Here's the little bus to take us back out of the valley. It only makes three runs per day and two on Sundays.

August 13, 2017

On Top of the World at Cima della Trosa, then down to Mergoscia

Three hikes in four days, and each a bit different than the rest....

August 13, 2017 -- Sunday's hike was one of those Top-of-the-World kind, where you stand on a summit and get 360º views across the mountain tops, into various valleys below, and in this case, glimpses of both the highest peak of the Swiss Alps (Monte Rosa Massif) and the highest mountain that is 100% on Swiss terrain, the 4545m high Mount Dom.

The ascent to Cimetta from Locarno on Lake Maggiore was by funicular, then cable car, then chair lift, and being a sunny Sunday, there were lots of people going up there. But we were of the few who walked right to the summit of Cima della Trosa, an additional easy 1-hour, 200m climb. From there the plan was to walk 1100m downhill to the village of Mergoscia in the Verzasca Valley. Everything was going well: The weather was perfect, just enough wind so it wasn't too hot, views were stunning. Until I twisted my foot, the first time in almost 4000 km of hiking. Lucky for me, if I placed it carefully it didn't hurt, which was good because we still had 2 hours to go (of the 4-hour hike)!

The slightly sloped trail was a wonderful variety of mountain trail above the tree line, to soft forest trail, to stone steps as we came into the village. And just in time too, as the bus was already waiting at the church square... next one two hours later!

The ride up the hill starts with a funicular from Locarno to Madonna del Sasso Church, then a cable car to Cardada.

From Cardada you ride a chair lift to Cimetta, where our hike began.

It's an easy 1-hour walk up to the Cima della Trosa Summit

Perfect hiking weather, not too hot and a little breeze, and wonderful views

Views South past Lake Maggiore to Italy, and West all the way to the Valais Alps

The highest peaks in the Swiss Alps (Monte Rosa Massif and Mount Dom). These are both far to the West in the Valais Alps.

From the summit of Cima della Trosa, you get this view into the Maggia Valley

Lago Maggiore

Looking East, this is the Valley we are going to descend, to Mergoscia in the Verzasca Valley

Descending to Mergoscia in the Verzasca Valley

We enjoy passing through the little mountain hamlets of Rustico houses

Behind this stable is a good place to have lunch.

Lunch time

These lizards are all over the place, they scatter off on all sides when you walk past. I even scared a snake sunning itself on the trail, but it disappeared before I could tell if it was harmless or not