Schwarzenbach to Lütisburg along the Thur River Trail

Sunday February 12, 2023 -- The lovely weather continues, so we are out walking as often as possible!

After two winter/snow hikes (last Wednesday and yesterday), we wanted to see green again, and decided on an easy walk along a river, this time the Thur River in the northeastern part of Switzerland. Usually I get very tired doing riverside walks, but this stretch along the Thur River was a nice combination of forest, riverside, farms and meadow trails.. Stretches along paved roads were no problem, as there was plenty of variety. The only drawback was that it was a very hazy day, and it would have been nice to see the mountains more clearly.

The Thur River is a 131-km long river in the northeast of Switzerland, with its source on the flanks of Mt.Säntis in the Alpstein Massif. It flows through the Cantons of St.Gallen, Thurgau (named after the river) and Zurich, where it enters the Rhine River south of Schaffhausen. There is a 160-km themed trail which you can follow in stages, and on this day we did half of Stage 3, from Schwarzenbach near Wil, and walking south to Lütisburg. Of particular interest was the wooden covered bridge across the Thur River at the latter location, and the fabulous Guggenloch railway viaduct. Also, this stretch is under special natural protection, and is considered one of the most valuable landscapes in Switzerland. 

In all it was a good day for this hike. Sometimes warm enough without a jacket, and sometimes a cold wind blowing. But lots of sunshine at about 6 ⁰C.

We started our hike at 10:15 at the Thur Bridge (Railway Bridge) in Schwarzenbach, just south of the city of Wil

The Thur River flows through three Cantons. This stretch is in Canton St.Gallen. We walked just over 12 km from Schwarzenbach to Lütisburg station. 

We had mostly pleasant meadow and forest trails, and most of them were dry. There are very many farms with fruit trees here, and it will be magnificent when they are blossoming. 

Once in a while we had a view of the Thur River

Several such forest stretches

A couple of detours to the river shore. This whole stretch is a nationally protected landscape

We passed several very unique buildings in the forest near the river.

The buildings were all different shapes, lots of them like "tiny houses". This one had a mailbox to match!

Another look down at the Thur River

Right next to the river: A Hexagon house and a swimming pool. Most likely a "summer cabin". 

We had to make a detour through the town of Jonschwil, where we found a small hill with some benches, where we had our picnic lunch. We didn't stay long, because there was a cold wind blowing

Our picnic lunch spot. This hill is called "Burg" because the Jonschwil fortress used to be here.  

This bird was sitting on the branch, but as soon as you stop to focus your camera, they fly away! As long as you keep walking, they remain sitting for a while. 

Heading back down toward the river again, we passed through this lovely farm area. Across the river is the town of Bazenheid

The trail goes right past the farm houses. 

There was no enclosure for the sheep on this large clearing, and the babies were playing all over the road! 

Being watched very carefully by a Mom, to make sure we didn't get too close to the babies!

In several places we passed eroded cliffs, many with large icicles due to dripping water

At the hydro power dam in Mühlau, we saw an interesting fish ladder, which are common constructions around power dams, so that the fish can find their way around the dam to the lower part of the river.

Walking along Trail no.24: "Thurweg" (Thur River Trail). Our goal from here is Lütisburg Station, having started in Schwarzenbach. In all just over three hours. 

Enjoying the sunshine

A small farming hamlet called Haslen. We usually like these pasture trails, but at this time of year they are muddy, slippery and difficult to walk. Sometimes the paved roads are preferable. 

In Lütisburg, the Necker River joins the Thur River here below the St.Michael's Catholic Church

A quick look inside the St.Michael's Church

I always admire the organs. This is quite a unique one, the full width of the church

St.Michael's Catholic church in Lütisburg

We stopped here for a coffee break before continuing to the train station, which was actually another 30 minutes to walk!

The wooden covered bridge over the Thur River in Lütisberg, and the fabulous train viaduct in the background. 

The wooden covered bridge was built in 1789. 

A look back at the beautiful wooden covered bridge over the River Thur at Lütisburg

And now we pass under the magnificent Guggenloch railway viaduct, 152m long. 

This was the original iron railway bridge, built 1870-1875, and replaced by the stone bridge in 1945. The photo shows the stone bridge under construction, while the iron bridge is still in use. 

Once we got to the level of the railway line, we got this view of the town of Ganterschwil on the east side of the Thur River

Here at the train station in Lütisburg is where we ended our hike at 3 p.m., although we had enough daylight to walk the next village of Bütschwil. The air was very hazy this day, and we could not see the mountains very well. 

Our train heading south to Wattwil, which is the other end of Stage 3 of the Thur River Trail. 

What our 12-km stretch along the Thur River Trail looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

On the way to Wattwil by train, we spot the medieval-looking village of Liechtensteig, which we hope to visit soon when we walk the second part of Stage 3 of the trail. 

A glimpse of the Churfirsten mountains just before we reach Wattwil (change of trains there). 

The location of this section of the Thur River, just south of the city of Wil. This area is also part of the Toggenburg. 

Other hikes we have done in the Toggenburg region of northeastern Switzerland

Hike Around Piz Lagalb to the Bernina Pass

With a 10-day stretch of days off and vacation, we had planned two "longer" trips, instead of just doing day-trips. That is, going to a different part of Switzerland and staying three days in one area to discover places that take longer to get to.

The first was the 3-day trip to Davos on July 30th to Aug.1st. The second trip was from Aug.6th to 8th to one of the most remote corners of Switzerland, the Poschiavo Valley, which is on the South side of the Bernina Pass and forms a small finger of land projecting into Italian territory, and takes over 6 hours by public transit for us to get to. The popular Bernina Railway line (the highest regularly scheduled train service in Europe) heads through there from St.Moritz to Tirano in Italy, and it is a favourite ride and location for us, having been there several times before (also with guests!)

The main reasons for going were Urs' wish to see the 11th-Century San Romerio Church perched 800m above Lake Poschiavo, and my wish to repeat one of the very first hikes we did almost exactly 7 years ago when I came to Switzerland. This was in another remote Valley called Val Camp, from where you cross the Viola Pass into Italy to eat at a restaurant renowned for its Polenta. The B&B that we like to stay at is ideally located for us to get there and back on a day trip. In fact, we had already made a reservation for lunch for the Friday.

So on the way to the Poschiavo Valley on Thursday, we took a break two hours short of our destination to do a 3-hour hike near the Bernina Pass, namely walking around the peak called Piz Lagalb, another barren high alpine landscape with many small lakes and breathtaking views of glaciers and the Poschiavo Valley. Starting late in the day (near noon) it was quite warm, but rivers, lakes and a cool breeze were helpful. 

ADDENDUM: As we enjoyed refreshments in the Cambrena Restaurant at the Bernina Pass at the end of the hike, we called the bus company to reserve our seats into Val Camp for the next morning, only to find out that both morning buses, including extra buses, on both Friday and Saturday were already fully booked. Such a disappointment! The trip will have to wait for another year then....

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THE TRIP STARTS with a train ride through the Prättigau where we spent the other three days in Davos, then through the 19-km long Vereina Tunnel, emerging at Susch, and traveling along the En River (better known as the Inn River) to Pontresina and the Bernina Pass:

After emerging from the 19-km long Vereina Tunnel, the Red Train from the Rhaetian Railway travels Westward along the En (Inn) River

It is always a treat to ride the train in the Upper Engadine. This is the town of Zernez, from where you access the Swiss National Park to the South.

Everywhere the pretty Engadine houses

Train Station in S-Chanf reminds us of a really nice vacation week we spent near here in 2016

Past Pontresina toward the Bernina Pass, you go by the imposing Morteratsch Glacier (we also hiked up above this glacier in 2013). The peak in the center is Mt. Bernina, at 4039m the highest peak in the Eastern Alps.

As we had come from Samedan by bus, we got off at the Lagalb Cable Car station, and headed into the side valley, Val Minor, heading to the pass called Fuorcla Minor

After 4 hours and 15 minutes of travel, we got off the bus at Lagalb cable car station, and started on our hike at 11:30, pretty late for us, and already quite warm. We got back on the train at the Bernina Pass (the highest altitude railway station on the Rhaetian Railway line) at 16:30, and got to our B&B in Campascio at 18:15.

As we head into the Val Minor, a look back shows us the beautiful Cambrena Glacier on the left, and dead ahead the snowy peak of Piz Palü.

Close-up of Piz Palü (Mt. Palü). On the left is a peak called Piz D'Arlas

Heading up into the Valley... as usual there were clouds covering the sun as we got on the way, but for this time I was VERY glad of the shade!

The poisonous Monkshood is prolific in the Alps at this time of year.

A herd of Berber horses grazes here in July and August

I was glad for the water, poured it over my head several times during the hike!

Looking back down the valley. Here we have almost reached the first lake

So pretty, the wild flowers

Other hikers also enjoying the flowers

The first of several lakes. The next one is hidden on the next elevated section

Nearness of water and a cool breeze helped so it wasn't so hot

Looking down over all the lakes as we reach the Fuorcla Minor Pass.

On the South side, a look into the Poschiavo Valley. Val Camp, where we had hoped to go the next day, is on the left in the darker set of mountains.

It took about 2 hours to get here, and now we have another hour to walk to the Bernina Pass, along the trail on the hillside ahead

First glimpse of the mighty Cambrena Glacier as we head West toward Lago Bianco

More pretty lakes

First glimpse of Lago Bianco

VIDEO
Cows at Lago Bianca near the Bernina Pass

Below is the Bernina Pass, and the restaurant Cambrena. We had an extra hour before the next train South, so we stopped at the restaurant for refreshments

The mother cow somehow made it out of the enclosure, and the baby was desperate to get to its Mama, but couldn't. I'm sure they figured something out. But best not to interfere when there are baby cows involved!

A one-hour break inside the restaurant to cool off the burning skin

Catching the Rhaetian Railway at Ospizio Bernina Station, the highest altitude railway station on the line.

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FROM THE BERNINA PASS along Lago Bianco (North-South watershed... feeding the Baltic Sea to the East and the Adriatic Sea to the South) down the switchback railway line, into the Poschiavo Valley and toward the Italian border, we rode the train for another 90 minutes, which includes the always fascinating 360-degree Brusio Viaduct, before arriving at our B&B in Campascio not far from the Italian border.

Heading South along Lago Bianco

Lago Bianco South Side (a reservoir lake which is a watershed for the Baltic Sea to the East and the Adriatic Sea to the South) 

At Alp Grüm, a look down at Lake Palü and straight ahead at the Palü Glacier. One of our favourite places.

Winding down into the Poschiavo Valley

Looking down into the Poschiavo Valley with Lago Poschiavo. We are going even further than that.

Arriving at the valley bottom in San Carlo near the town of Poschiavo

As we travel past Lago Poschiavo, we can barely make out the 11th Century Church -- San Romerio -- perched 800m above lake level. This is what Urs came to see.

Traveling over the 360-degree Brusio Viaduct

VIDEO:

Riding the train over the Brusio Viaduct

The train passes right behind the Lucini's yard in Campascio. We rented the upstairs apartment for two days.

This is the remote part of Switzerland that we like to go to, but it takes about 6 hours to get there.