Sunday September 3, 2023 -- This is the final day of Urs' two-week holiday, and we sure did a lot of hiking and walking in the past two weeks, even though six of the days were rainy days! (We did hikes on the other 10 days, seven of which were 4.5 hours or more! And we were away in different parts of the country for 2x three days in that period).
So after returning from our three-day trip to Canton Valais (Wallis), we did only a small tour this Sunday. The original plan was to hike to the summit of Mount Niederbauen quite close to home, which you can access to within about 90 minutes of hiking by way of the cable car from Emmetten on the south side of Lake Lucerne. The day was pretty overcast with high clouds, and we weren't really sure in the end if it was worth paying 45 CHF for the cable car, and not have a clear view, which is required for this hike. So when we got to the cable car station and saw about 30 people already waiting in line for the small 8-person cable car, we walked down the road to the Stockhütte cable-car instead, a cable-car we can ride for free, so we didn't lose out. We spent the money instead on a lunch at the restaurant there, and walked a "short" two-hour and 7 km trail back down to the bus at Emmeten.
It was a good solution for the day, as it was not too strenuous, we didn't need the view, and the day was actually not too hot at all. Plus we walked down a valley we hadn't been before. Highlight of the day was the 10-minute ride on the steam-boat between Seelisberg and Brunnen, which is the quickest way for us when we come to this area.
The fastest way for us to get to Emmetten on the south side of Lake Luzern is by boat from Brunnen to Seelisberg, which is the main mountain in this photo. The highest peak in the center is Mount Niederbauen, which we had originally planned to walk up to this day. On the flank of Mt. Seelisberg, on the small clearing near lake level on the left, is the Rütil pasture where the three original cantons made their vows that led to the Swiss Confederate State in 1291.
Approaching the dock at Treib-Seelisberg, which is also the base station of the Treib-Seelisberg Funicular, which is part of our trip to Emmetten.
View toward Mount Pilatus to the West on our ascent with the funicular. This is Lake Luzern, or the Vierwaldstättersee. Flank of Mount Rigi on the right.
A short trip up the mountain with the Treib-Seelisberg funicular
From Seelisberg we rode a bus to Emmetten. When we saw that there were very many people standing at the Niederbauen cable-car station, we walked a couple of minutes to the other cable car station which goes up to a mountain restaurant called Stockhütte, which is also popular with families, especially on a Sunday, as there is a large playground. But the cable car doesn't cost us anything to ride, and it is a gondola cable-car, so you never have to wait too long to get into one.
We originally wanted to take the Niederbauen cable car on the left, and hike up to the summit of Mount Niederbauen. But there were too many people waiting for that cable car, so we rode the other one instead, to Stockalp and walked back down to Emmetten, a two-hour walk.
The gondola cable-car from Emmetten to Stockhütte.
A view across the lake to the mountain called Vitznauerstock or Gersauerstock, depending on which community you ask! This is part of the Rigi range of mountains
It was only 11:15 when we got to the Stockhütte restaurant, and even though it was early, we had lunch before going on our two-hour walk. There were barely any people inside the restaurant at this time.
Heading off on our hike at 11:45. The first section (1.3 kilometers) was on a wide road, partly through the forest, and there were quite a few people walking here.
After the first 20 minutes along the road we descended through a wetlands region to the main trail that many people follow who have taken the Niederbauen cable car up the other side (A hike which we have done before, those photos are HERE). Shortly afterwards, we descended via the Kohl Valley, and were practically the only hikers on that stretch all the way back to Emmetten
A short break before descending through the moor hillside. The upper plateau in the center is called Färnital, and we just realized we can cross to there from the Isenthal Valley on the other side!
Descending through the Rinderbühl-Isital moor regions. The mountain on the right is called Schwalmis.
My favourites.
Picture on the same bench that we sat on last time we were here, when we walked UPHILL where we just came down from!
Ahead is the short section of the "Wilbeobachtungsweg" we will cross before descending at the edge of the forest.
Oh those cows, always blocking the trail!
Looking back at the hillside we just descended
This sign has been here for a while! We think it is supposed to read "Kohltal" and "Emmetten".
A long and gravelly, sometimes steep, trail down through the forest.
Now we've gotten down to the road in the Kohl Valley. A look back up the hill at Mount Schwalmis
Nice cliffs on our right, that's where the Niederbauen cable car goes up to.
This is the Choltalbach (or Kohl Valley Stream). There were a few families up here doing an outdoor grill and playing in the water.
We kept turning around to admire the view behind us.
This fat caterpillar crossing the road is the larvae of the Pine Hawkmoth, very common in Central Europe, apparently
Another look behind us. We followed this road for 2½ kilometers, but it was nice walking here. Almost no traffic, not a hot afternoon (because slightly overcast) and always with the sound of the river next to us.
Urs lost his Safari cap on our trip to Canton Wallis, so we had to improvise with a cap and neckerchief. He always wants his neck shielded from the sun.
We often come across these signs, that nearby pastures are guarded by herd dogs. Usually they are not this close to the road though. The one raced up and down the fence, barking madly at us. I am always impressed that they can train these dogs to protect the sheep without any humans around. I had just read the sign that you shouldn't run, and promptly forgot, as I hurried to catch up to Urs who felt uncomfortable being so close to the dogs. And then this one got agitated and started barking again.
Around the corner, our first look down at Emmetten
Last stretch down to the road, and we pass the Niederbauen cable-car station (The one we took is further down the road on the left.)
The best trail of the day, soft meadow grass!
The small cable car is just making its way down from the Niederbauen pastures. This time not too many people were waiting at the bottom (it's now 14:20). But picture the line-up out the door, past the benches on the left, and then all the way to the back of the building on the right.
These are all the hikes we have done in the region of Mount Niederbauen, Emmetten and Seelisberg.
Back on the bus and heading back to the funicular station, we pass through the village of Seelisberg.
Down the mountain again on the funicular. The afternoon has become quite hazy now.
Back down at the dock in Treib, the steam boat named "Stadt Luzern" arrives from Brunnen. Those heading to Luzern get on this one. Then from the Luzern side, our ship, the "Schiller", arrives afterwards.
Filming the "Schiller" as it comes to dock in Treib. This is also a steam boat / paddle-wheeler. It is always a pleasure to get a ride on these, no matter how short!
VIDEO:
The two ships "Stadt Luzern" and "Schiller" cross,
It's a short ride from Treib to Brunnen, just 10 minutes. But always a nice view down the Uri arm of Lake Luzern to Mount Bristen in the back and the famous Schiller rock on the right.
Docking at Brunnen
This is my favourtie building in Brunnen, where we wait for the bus to the train station.
Location of Emmetten and Seelisberg in Switzerland.
Wednesday July 3 (Vacation Week) -- After three days of hikes and excursions (Sat-Sun-Mon), Tuesday was cooler so we stayed home. Wednesday dawned "iffy", the skies were black above the mountains, so we almost changed our plans for the day, but I'm glad we didn't! Our plan was to hike down Mount Niederbauen in the Central Alps on the South side of Lake Lucerne, a beautiful area not far from where we live. (Also the same area where we hiked twice the week before). A quick look on the Internet at the webcams showed us clearing views of the lake, so we decided to risk it. Interestingly enough, the fastest way for us to get to the starting point of our hike at 10 a.m. with public transit was: Bus-Train-Train-Bus-Boat-Funicular-Bus-CableCar, and took us about 2 hours! The "Getting There" was a treat in itself. The trail we hiked was called the "Emmetten Game Observation Trail", but hard as we looked, we saw no game. It is simply too hot for them to come out of the caves. But we saw loads of cows, which is almost always as great. The trail was nicely varied just how we like it, the downhill not too steep, and even the two steep uphill portions quite do-able. And the weather very pleasant. Nicest thing was, THERE WERE NO OTHER PEOPLE! Unusual for this area, although it is more over-run in winter. Another thing that I found special: At one point we were just above the village of Bauen which featured in two very recent hikes, and looking across Lake Uri, this time we got a super view down onto the area near Eggbergen where I did the Wild Hay Trail only four days earlier. It is always so cool to see where we've been from a different angle!
Crossing the lake from Brunnen to Treib (where we then changed to a funicular) was cold and not looking too hopeful for our choice of hike for the day (view South along Lake Uri)
To get to Mount Niederbauen, first buses and trains to Brunnen (upper left), then a boat to Treib (20 minutes, upper right) then the funicular up mount Seelisberg (8 minutes, bottom left). Bottom right is the view over Lake Lucerne on the funicular ride. It's looking better!
From Seelisberg by bus to Emmetten (the start and end of our excursion), then with the Niederbauen cable car to the start of the hike.
This is the landscape we are hiking, below the cliffs on the left, to Stockalp on the right, where we take another cable car down to Emmetten
A few puffs of clouds still, but it's looking good. And always happy to hike where the cows are grazing, because the cow bells and the countryside are so relaxing.
Just before the steep ascent to Faulberg we got some spectacular views into the eastern Glarner Alps and below to Lake Uri
Starting on the hike near the cable car station. In the back are the distinctive peaks of the two Mythen, and on the right is the top of mount Niederbauen (we did not go up there).
This one probably hasn't seen too many people today, wondering what we are. On the right is the steep trail up to Faulberg. From there it was mostly downhill
Lovely landscapes
Behind the cows is the Schächental Valley going up to the Klausen Pass
Below is Lake Uri, and behind it the Ober Axen alp, where I hiked four days earlier
A steep climb to Faulberg
At the highest point on our hike. First we have to see what the cows are up to before venturing into their midst. A whole lot of them had just raced past, and we didn't want to be among them when they are running!
View to Lake Lucerne and Mt. Bürgenstock on the left, Mt. Rigi on the right. Cable Car station where we started is right in the center on the rise.
Walking along the upper ridge looking for a suitable place for a picnic lunch.
This cow has freckles!
This is the perfect place for a picnic lunch. We searched the cliffs in vain for game. But we could admire the trail we were going to take, past the house with the red roof and down into the gully and up the slope behind my head.
This is the closest we came to chamois or ibex.
On these hot days I take every such opportunity to wash my hands and face and fill up my water bottle!
The trail was very varied and wonderful to walk.
Here was another good spot in the shade for a coffee break
Above the little cabin where we had a break, there was a waterfall and an upper valley that you could also hike up to.
This little guy looked like he was drowning in the cow pie, so I rescued him. On the other hand, maybe he was just cooling off from the heat as well!
Before heading up the final ascent toward our destination, here's to savouring our effort for the day. The entire stretch from left to right below the cliffs...
At Stockalp, before descending back to Emmetten on the next cable car, admiring where we started. Because we started late (at noon) we were pretty lucky with the timing. When we got here it was 16:45, the final cable car run this day was 17:30. (not sure why so early...)
View over Emmetten and Lake Lucerne on the way down in the Stockalp cable car.
Back down in Emmetten, we were just in time to buy and eat icecream before the bus came. (Return trip via Lucerne, not Boat etc. like on the way here)
A wonderful hike, not too strenuous, splendid landscape. 9 km, took us a about 4 hours.
A favourite hiking region for us, we can get to all these places in about 2 hours.