Hike to the Chelenalp Valley beyond Lake Göscheneralpsee

Saturday July 4, 2020 -- Back in August 2015 we did the popular approx. 3-hour loop hike around the stunning lake Göscheneralpsee, a dammed reservoir lake at the foot of the equally stunning Damma Glacier. (A mountain village was flooded to create the lake; all the residents had to rebuild downstream from the dam). The lake has the highest rock-and-dirt dam in Switzerland. It is fed by five different tributaries of the Reuss River, two of which are brought in through long tunnels from a couple of parallel valleys. 

At the time, as we walked along the South side of the lake, we could see way back past the lake into the Chelenalp Valley to the Chelen Glacier, massively retreated but revealing an unusual tableau of very red and iron-rich rocks. It was always a plan to return here to see the wild valley up close.

From the South side of the Göscheneralpsee, you can see to the back of the Chelenalp Valley, to what remains of the Chelen Glacier, and the unusual red-coloured rock. This valley is where we walked into this day, but along the far (North) side of the lake.

On the map, we discerned the remains of several side glaciers which once flowed into this valley, so our plan for this beautiful day was to walk along the North side of the lake and a large section to the back of the valley, to where we might have a nice direct view onto one of these glaciers.

Starting at the dam on the East side, our plan was to walk far to the end of the valley so we could get a closer look at the the two glaciers at the back. (Approx. 2 hours to get to the back)

Being a Saturday, there were plenty of people doing the round-tour of the lake, as this area is also easily accessible by car, but only a handful made our same trek up the valley, most of the other people heading up to the nearby Chelenalp Mountain Hostel to do rock climbing. The excursion was a 4-hour "walk-in-the-park" for us, a relaxing change from the most recent 2-day hike we did. On the return, though, we decided to follow an unmarked trail we saw on the map... when doing this, there is always a risk of having to turn back due to impassable sections. As it turned out, it took us a long time to cross this way, as most of the terrain was soft peat bog, wet and mushy because the water doesn't run off. But we still had time to enjoy better views of the lake, and made it to the bus again with just a couple of minutes to spare.

In recent days there have been lots of low clouds hanging on the mountain peaks. So on the way up we were somewhat disappointed that even though we could see the glaciers, we couldn't see the peaks behind them. But by mid-afternoon the clouds lifted, and before heading back out of the valley, we were able to enjoy the mountain backdrop in its full glory....  oh, and we saw marmots and chamois again, always a thrill!

From the bus window heading toward the Göscheneralp Lake, you can see the earth and rock dam, the highest in Switzerland

Starting at the bus stop at the Dammagletscher Restaurant, we ascended on a non-official trail for a wonderful view down onto the dam, where most of the hikers are crossing to follow the trail on the South side of the lake

View down onto the Göscheneralp Valley and the parking lot at the restaurant below

Before starting on the trail toward the back of the lake, a first coffee break with the backdrop of the impressive Damma Glacier

Heading West along the North side of the Lake. On the rocky peak below the Damma Glacier is one of five Mountain Hostels in this valley

Zoomed view of the tiny Swiss Alpine Club Dammahütte Mountain Hostel perched on that steep rocky section below the Damma Glacier 

First glimpse of the Lake

Across the lake on its South side, the diverted water from the Furkareuss River in the Ursuren Valley to the South (through an approx. 6-km long tunnel) thunders into the Lake

VIDEO:

Massive volume of water diverted from a parallel valley to the South (this water comes from the Furkareuss River near Tiefenbach)

Panorama View of the whole lake, including the waterfall and dam on the left side

Zoomed view of the rock dam, the highest in Switzerland

Descent to the back of the lake, before heading into the Chelenalp Valley. Other hikers head out from here to the South around the lake (or come from there)

View into the Chelenalp Valley where we are headed, toward the Chelen Glacier and the iron-rich rocks below the glacier

A look back at the Chelenreuss River heading into the Lake, as we head up into the Chelenalp Valley

Above us to the South, one of several glacier remains here

We had to cross many such feeder streams

Alpine flora

First view of the glacier we had actually come to see (the one to the South)

And way at the back to the West, the Chelen Glacier

Here we are almost as far West as we had planned to go

From our spot where we decided to have our lunch, we admired this view for a long time. The waterfalls were massive and high, the glacier even higher and more massive

Close-up of the massive glacier we had come to see!

And even closer view of the very top ridge of the glacier, where even more massive banks of snow are barely visible

Our long and careful scanning of the hillsides rewarded us with a glimpse of three chamois crossing the snow patch -- they are easier to spot on the snow than on the rocky hillside!

VIDEO:

Three Chamois crossing Avalanche Snow Patches

Lunchtime is over, time to head back down the valley. 

A final close-up of the Chelen Glacier. Looks so small now. Thirty years ago it probably flowed down to where we are standing.

Making our way back across all the little feeder streams to the Chelenreuss River

An easy walk for us back to Lake Göscheneralpsee

We caught sight of another Chamois feeding directly on the trail. Off he goes up the hill after spotting us!

Near the lake is a bridge where we get this beautiful view back up the Chelen Glacier. I loved the noise of the mighty rushing river!

VIDEO:

Lots of water in the Chelenreuss River.

View to the Chelen Glacier at the back of the valley.

Back at the lake and heading back up along the North side to return to the parking lot at the dam.

 

The lower "unofficial" trail we took on the way back took longer to navigate than expected. Mostly soft and wet trails over peat terrain. Here along this boulder someone hammered an iron bar for better passage 

Some lovely ponds in this moor landscape, and a final look at the Damma Glacier

Just before our final descent, this is part of the popular trail

A look down the entire Göscheneralp Valley to the East, and the parking lot below, which we reached just as the hourly Postbus was pulling in. 

An easy, approx. 4-hour hike for us (ca. 13 km) from the Dammaglacier Restaurant to the back of the Chelenalp Valley, and back again.

Walking out of the Göscheneralp Valley

Sunday June 30, 2019 -- Today we went into the mountains, into the Göscheneralp Valley which is just this side of the old Gotthard Tunnel. We vainly hoped the air would be cooler up here, but it was not! It was a bit of a shock coming out of the air-conditioned bus at the starting point of our hike: The dam at Lake Göscheneralpsee. 

Fortunately, once we got down the dam to the valley bottom there was a cool breeze, so that was comfortable. And there was still plenty of avalanche snow and lots of strong-flowing streams to cool off in (we filled our water bottles many times with this fresh mountain water!). In fact, some of the streams had so much water, it became difficult to cross.

We ran into a local hiker who showed us some impressive videos of several avalanches that came down in the valley this winter, and some of the damage was evident along the way.

We also had a bit of a shock when a large herd of cows congregated on the trail. Because there were babies, there's always danger of the mother cows getting angry, especially if you come between them and the babies. Some bikers were just making their way through the herd, so we walked really close to them....

Some interesting tidbits about this valley: Originally, the village of Gwüest was located right where the lake is. The village had to be rebuilt further down the valley once it was decided to flood the area to make the lake. The restaurant itself was moved piece by piece to its new location on this side of the dam. Also, 15 people live here year round, and kids who have to go to school get transported out of the valley by snow-mobile, and are billeted out to family members who live outside of the valley. They only come home on weekends, weather permitting....  Every 10 years the lake is drained to inspect the power plant (pipes etc.) and you can see the remains of the village at the bottom of the lake.

View down the Göscheneralp Valley from the top of the dam

First we have to walk across the dam. In the back is the Damma Glacier

A few years ago we walked around this whole lake. Others were doing it on this day but there was a sign that a bridge was out at the back of the lake and that it was difficult to cross

Below us is the trail across the dam. Then we walked on the valley bottom to the little lake, then up the hill on the right side.

So pretty

This dam is built entirely of natural materials (earth) instead of concrete

At the bottom of the dam, heading across the easy flat portion

Even though it was hot, there were lots of streams along the way where I continually washed my face and hands. In the back is the dam.

This one was an easy crossing!

This is the town of Gwüscht, where 15 people live all year round. The town had to be rebuilt here after the original one was flooded to create the reservoir lake.

The lake with the campground

Cows were milling on the path, and there were mothers and babies involved which can sometimes be dangerous. There was nowhere to "go around" so we stuck close to the cyclists where they "went through"

Looking back again to the dam and the Damma Glacier

Across the valley the next Post Bus is heading up to the lake on the narrow road

I figured if the little kids could do it, so surely could I!

Heading up the hill, last view to the back of the valley before heading into the forest

Now we get some pretty nice views into the Voralp Valley to the North. 

A nice shady spot for our lunch

Continuing on along the very nice trail

The alpine roses are just starting to bloom

At this spot you can see four Swiss Alpine Huts. Through my good zoom lens we spotted all four. Couldn't find the bivouac though. The sign obviously suffered from the avalanches this winter

This hut, the Damma Hostel, is very difficult to see as it is made of the same stone as its surroundings!

Way out there is the Voralp Hostel

Panorama view of the Damma Glacier on the left, and right into the Voralp Valley

The snow is melting quickly now and some of these streams are difficult to cross!

There was a lot of water in this stream, it was quite difficult to cross!

Heading back down to the valley bottom

There is an interesting story to this photo. Hansheiri Inderkum was the Representative (Ständerat) for Canton Uri in the Federal Government from 1995 to 2011. He is somehow related to Urs (his father's cousin maybe?). This wooden chair commemorates his service.

VIDEO: 

The cars are driving backwards.... that means a Post Bus is coming and they must find a place to get out of the way, as the road is too narrow to pass:

At some point a part of the mountain came down here! I love how the trees grow out of the boulders

The last kilometer before getting back to the train station in Göschenen was along this shady cliff trail

The town of Göschenen

On the way back North to get home the train passes the town of Wassen three times.

The trail wasn't all easy-going, especially the steep downhill portion. This hike took at least 3.5 hours, possibly four.