Easy Walk along the Muota River in the Bisis Valley

Sunday August 14, 2022 -- After yesterday's long trip to Arosa and in anticipation of a rainstorm in the afternoon, we chose a short easy hike along the Muota River nearby, completing a section of the Bisis Valley which we had only traveled by bus before. (Back in early July we did that 2-day hike in Glattalp, descending to Schwarzenbach in the Bisis Valley. That's where we started this time).

According to my map, this should have been a leisurely 2.5-hour hike all along the river, right into the town of Muotathal, where we have been many times before. What we didn't know until we got there, is that the river has been redirected underground between two power plants in the valley, and the large, dry riverbed was only a stark reminder of the growing water shortage in all our rivers. Additionally, as we were at a lower elevation, we had hoped walking next to the running water would give us the sense that the air was cooler... but instead, it only felt humid.

At least we started early, and by the time we reached the junction with the valley connecting to Glarus via the Pragel Pass there was water again. We finished this short hike with cake and refreshments at the bakery café in Muotathal, which is open on Sundays, and were already on our way home at about 1:30 p.m, getting home just before 3 p.m. 

On the bus ride up the valley, we passed the little hamlet called Bisisthal (same name as the valley). Our hike starts a bit further up the valley and we are going to walk down to here

Close up view of the cute little church in Bisisthal

We were the only people who got off here at Schwarzenbach (the rest were going to the back of the valley to take the cable car up to Glattalp). This is where we ended two other previous hikes, so we figured we would start here and walk the rest of the way out of the valley to Muotathal

From Schwarzenbach looking down the valley which we are walking out of. 

Since we had ended a couple of other hikes in Schwarzenbach, and started/ended several in Muotathal, we thought this would be a good day to walk the rest of the valley. The trail goes right along the Muota River the entire way. About 2.5 hours

A cute farm-house in Bisisthal 

As we head over to the church in Bisisthal, a look up to the Schwarzenbach Restaurant and chapel where we started our hike. Glattalp, where we were in early July, would be behind the large mountain at the back (?)

The cute church in Bisisthal had a very nice painted wood-panel ceiling

Another look back as we continue down the valley, this time to the church in Bisisthal. Here the water from the Muota River is still above ground, and we were expecting our hike to continue this way!

An enjoyable and easy walk along the Muota River

This cow obviously just recently gave birth, although the farmer must have been here because the calf's ears are already tagged. We walked by quickly, as mother cows can get pretty dangerous when you are near their calves.

Another very nice look up the Bisis Valley

The water reservoir at the Mettlen Power plant 

Right below the power plant, there was only this large dry riverbed, almost all the way to Muotathal. A local told us that if there is a lot of winter snow, the riverbed fills up as well. Apparently, in 2005, the river was so high it flooded this entire valley bottom. 

When I mapped the trail, it was pretty clear that we would be walking along the river the whole way! We didn't expect that it would be without water!

Pretty butterflies

Like many of the "hidden" valleys in Switzerland, this one starts with a narrow ravine, before it opens up more toward the back. 

This wall called "Höch Müra" was built by hand after flooding of the river in 1910, to protect the farmlands and people fürther down-valley from future floodwaters

Siberian Huskies are raised here at the Husky Lodge in Muotathal, they are trained to pull sleds in winter. 

Below the second power plant near the town of Muotathal, the water is diverted back to the riverbed

Another final look back up the Bisis Valley

This cliff walk is not nearly as difficult as the last one!

Approaching the bridge at Hintherthal, the junction with the other valley where you can cross the Pragel Pass to Canton Glarus

The St.Josef Franciscan Abbey in Muotathal is the oldest still in operation Franciscan Abbey in Europe. (Established in the year 1288)

Also, the abbey plays a part in Switzerland's military history, as the nuns gave shelter to the Russian General Suvorov and his troops as they traveled over the Pragel Pass (ca. 1799)

A look up to the Pragel Pass

Another bridge with flowers over the Muota River. The colour makes all the difference in the world!

Our after-hike panaché and ice cream sundae, and this time I treated myself to a piece of Torte, at a bakery in Muotathal which is open on Sundays. 

Passing through the town of Schwyz on our way to the train station, this is the Ratshaus (City Hall), among very many attractive buildings in this town. 

We have done many hikes starting or ending in Muotathal, or ending in Schwarzenbach from the Schächental side. So this day we connected the two by walking from Schwarzenbach to Muotathal.

Two-Day hike in the Glattalp Region: Charetalp down into the Bisis Valley

Sunday July 3, 2022 -- Day 2 of our two-day hike from Braunwald in Canton Glarus to Glattalp in Canton Schwyz. (Photos from Day 1 are HERE)

We woke up well-rested from a peaceful night's sleep in the Berggasthaus Glattalp (no cowbells, but a herd of goats passed by early morning!), and after a good breakfast headed out for our second hike into the next valley over, the Charetalp, where we had heard that there are 3000 sheep roaming there every summer. (We had walked in this beautiful valley before, in October 2017, but at the time the animals were long gone off this high alpine pasture. Those photos are HERE). We took a different trail than last time, walking high above the Bisis Valley, again with super visibility all the way into the Muotathal Valley and the Mythen mountains to the north. Furthermore it was very interesting to see across into the mountains of Canton Schwyz as we have done many hikes there. 

Originally we had planned on a small loop tour back to the cable-car from Glattalp to the valley bottom, but it only transports 8 people every 20 minutes, and Urs had read that the busiest time on a Sunday was 2 p.m., right when we would have gotten back. (Sometimes you have to wait 90 minutes to get on this cable car!). So instead, we opted for a very long downhill hike to Schwarzenbach at the valley bottom, so that we could experience more of this fantastic karst landscape, the largest region of limestone in Switzerland (also the largest cave system in Europe). 

First though we had to take a detour to the farmhouse at Charetalp to bring greetings from our host at Glattalp, and to find out where the sheep were. All over the region, she said. They don't see them all summer, just go gather them in fall. Only those who get milked every day stay close to the farmhouse. And Urs had his mid-morning meringue and whipped cream dessert there!

It was a very hot weekend. On Saturday's hike we didn't feel the heat at all. Toward the evening at the Gasthaus it even got cold. But after we crossed the large karst area and started our hike back down to valley bottom, that's when we really felt the heat. Luckily we didn't have to wait long for the bus and found a cool spot on a chapel porch to wait. Definitely a successful weekend away from the major heat. 

As early as 7 a.m., the hikers who spent the night at the nearby Swiss Alpine Hostel are already making their way eastward up the valley to climb to the summit of Mt. Ortstock (view from our bedroom window)

7:15 a.m. morning wake-up call by an alphorn.

VIDEO:

A herd of goats passing by the Gasthaus at 7:15 a.m.!

A final pose in front of our Berggasthaus Glattalp before heading out on this day's hike. It's 8 a.m., still early and cool. That's the advantage of overnighting in the mountains, you can start early. 

The Glattalp cable car bringing up the first hikers of the day?

Our Day 2 Hike: First stop Charetalp farmhouse for morning dessert, and then through the stunning karst landscape (the largest such region in Switzerland). The second half was all downhill, a large part through the forest whose shade was welcome. We just took it slowly

The building behind Urs is the Swiss Alpine Hostel up here. It was fully booked out for the weekend. The Gasthaus where we stayed (only 7 people there) is further back 

There is a trail along these cliffs to walk down into the valley bottom. The cable car saves over 700m descent. We were originally going to come back here and ride the cable car, but decided to descend on foot further to the North. 

Panorama view into the Bisis Valley. These are the mountains of Canton Schwyz

The saddle top left is part of the Balmeter Crest, accessed from the Schächen Valley on the other side. Back in 2018 we did a hike from there down to that lake, then further into the Bisis Valley to the right. Those photos are HERE.

To the north we can see the Mythen mountains and even as far as Lake Zug where we live!

We are planning to walk down to the valley bottom of the Bisis Valley

Around the corner now and heading East onto the beautiful Charet Alp

More impressive geology!

Because the ground here is mainly limestone rock, and the largest cave system in Europe (270m) is down below here somewhere, you often come across sinkholes like these. I wonder that the cows never fall into the holes!

Another Look to the West across the Charet Alp 

Heading East along the Charet Valley (from here you can walk back to Braunwald where we started the day before), we are doing a detour to the little farm house to bring greetings from Glattalp

The sign says they offer Meringue with Whipped Cream, one of Urs' favourite desserts.

The farmers spend the summer up here in this small house serving drinks and desserts (also soup!) to passersby. We had a nice chat with Rosemarie, who told us that they mostly don't see the 3000 sheep all summer; the sheep take care of themselves on this wide open pasture, and are gathered up again in fall. 

What an adventure for the kids who spend the summer up here! Playing in the sinkhole....

These few sheep are raised for their milk, and they know to stay near the stable

Now off across the beautiful karst region to Robutzli and Schwarzenbach where we will catch the bus out of the Bisis Valley (2.5 hours to walk). 

Impressive what can grow here. 

One last look down at the Charet Alp. Besides the 3000 sheep, there are als 600 head of cattle which spend the summer up here. 

Fun to walk here as the landscape is not at all monotonous!

What a funny goat! Thinks it's an ibex on a vertical mountainside.

The large karst landscape between Muotathal and Charetalp

This is the farm at Robutzli, 40 minutes walk from the Charet Alp. A good place to have a picnic lunch in the shade of the barn

It's noon and we are happy to find shade for our picnic, and to air out the hot feet!

A handy place to cool off my sore feet!

Possibly a snowfinch? We are checking with a bird expert

A look back at the mountains along the Charetalp and Glattalp Valleys. 

Up ahead we get a look at the summit of the Gross Mythen, with its red verrucano rock at the top (older than the rock below it). 

Cows on the trail again. The one in the middle gave us a mean look, so we made a large detour.

Starting on the long steep descent, mostly through forest. We took it slowly.

Down below is the parking lot near the Schwarzenbach restaurant where we will catch the bus out of the valley (to Muotathal)

So glad about the shade in the forest!

A look behind us at the whole descent we just did, coming down from the left

This is the beautiful Bisis Valley

We got to Schwarzenback at 2:30 p.m., had to wait 30 minutes for the bus, so we sat in the shade on the porch of the chapel, out of the sun, because here at the valley bottom it was now very hot....

Our trail from Berghaus Glattalp via Charetalp and down to Schwarzenbach in the Bisis Valley

Waiting along the Muota River in Muotathal for our connecting bus. It only takes about an hour 15 minutes by public transport to get home from here. The valley in the back leads to the Pragel Pass, a hike I have done twice. 

A lot of hikes in this region as well! in the back is the Klausen Pass (Schächen Valley on the right and Urnerboden on the left, favourites of ours)

A good look again at the Gross Mythen (Greater Mythen) as we pass through the town of Schwyz by train. 

Gross and Klein (Greater and lesser) Mythen in Schwyz

The whole 2-day excursion on a map. Ca. 5 hours of straight walking each day. 25 straight kilometers, but calculating for steep ascents and descents, an equivalent of about 45 km!

The region of Glattalp and Charetalp, Schwyz and Muotatal.