Friday August 27, 2021 -- The final day of our 5-day hiking trip in Canton Valais dawned cloudless as we prepared to leave our little hotel in Les Collons high up above the Rhône Valley. We had to leave fairly early as there are only three daily bus courses that take you off the mountain from Thyon to Sion. (Side note: This was the first day of school, and many tiny French-speaking humans rode the bus with us, heading off to primary school in Vex, about half-way down the mountain...)
Although the weather would have been perfect in this corner of Canton Valais, we had again planned something further along on the "way home", namely an irrigation channel hike high up on Belalp near Brig, where we had actually been the month before when we hiked on the Aletsch Panorama Trail in July (photos HERE). At that time we had lots of fog and had to wait out some time at the restaurant there, before starting on that hike. We had high hopes to see the alp without fog this time...
Which turned out not to be. It was basically a repeat of last time, a cable car ride from Blatten through the clouds, an hour spent at the restaurant waiting for the clouds to lift (as it turned out, they remained all day) and then off on our hike anyway. We started with a 3.5-kilometer walk along the Nessjeri irrigation channel (built in the 15th Century), at an altitude of 2100 meters one of the highest irrigation channels which still conveys water to irrigate the farms in the Rhône Valley below. Even with the fog, it was a lovely hike. As we got further and further from Belalp, the magnificent Aletsch Glacier appeared more and more behind us, until the best view-point before we started on our long descent: At a little hamlet called Nessel, we were able to look North to the Aletsch Glacier, and over the entire Rhône Valley to the South. So not a wasted day at all.
After the long and tiring descent (750m) toward Birgisch, we still had enough energy to walk along two more irrigation channels (Oberschta and Stigwasser, both even older than the Nessjeri channel, namely built some time in the 13th Century) into and out of the the fabulous Gredetschtal Valley to end our hike in Mund, the Saffron Capital North of the Alps.... (30-1000 flowers handpicked per day over 18,000 sq.meters, producing 1 to 4 kilograms of saffron per year). The Mund Saffron Museum is housed in a tiny wooden building which has been dated to 1437 and is one of the oldest structures in Canton Valais.
The day starts with a nice breakfast at the "Auberge de l'ours" hotel in Les Collons. There weren't many guests, and we are the first up this early.... (7 a.m.).
At 8 a.m. we are heading back down to Sion from Les Collons, a 45-minute bus ride where more and more children were getting on, going to their first day of school in Vex below.
The Chateau de Valère in Sion. Here the weather was fabulous. Webcams for Brig already indicated way more clouds in that direction, and we could have changed plans, but that becomes tiring. So we stuck to our original plan and headed to Belalp
From Blatten bei Naters you take a cable car to Belalp, where we nursed some coffees again on the restaurant terrace while waiting for the clouds to disappear, which they did not. (I was so annoyed at our lack of spontaneity to change plans, that I forgot to take a photo of our coffee break...). From there we walked up to the irrigation channel called Nessjeri, at 2100 one of the highest irrigation channels where water flows.
Looking across the valley we could see that the irrigation channel trail at least was not directly in the clouds, so we headed off anyway.... Considering that we left the hotel in Les Collons fairly early, we only started on this hike at 11:30 a.m.
Heading toward the irrigation channel (not here, although this is the river which provides the water for the channel higher up) we at least had some sunshine, but the surrounding mountains had disapeared in the clouds.
Here we are near the origin of the Nessjeri irrigation channel
For the next 3.5 kilometers we walked South along this irrigation channel
The colours of the landscape were very pretty up here, even without much sunshine
VIDEO:
Walking along the Nessjeri Irrigation Channel
(This is my own video, open up in YouTube)
A look behind us at Belalp where we started our hike (above the forested section). The Aletsch Glacier is just coming into view on the right.
This is how the water is diverted to the various fields. Back in the middle ages there were very strict rules about which farmer got to use the water and when. Only those who participated in building the channels had "free" use (according to strict schedules), others had to pay to use the water.
The more we headed South, the more we could see of the Aletsch Glacier to the Northeast (It was such a shame that the sky was not blue).
A zoomed view of the Aletsch Glacier (the largest glacier in the Alps) looking back toward where we came from.
Just before starting on the long descent, we arrived at the little hamlet called Nessel
Little hamlet of Nessel near Belalp
Another very cute and very old chapel, which contained a little surprise
Inside the Nessel Chapel is a very old original piece of artwork, a type of box whose doors can be shut. The date on the box reads 1656.... And interestingly enough, the artists in the middle ages don't ever seem to have seen any real human babies. (They simply look like tiny grown men).
To the Southwest we can see the Mischabel Massif on the left, the Matterhorn in the middle, and the Weisshorn on the right. (It was really tough realizing the skies were clear there... we could have done a hike in the Vispa Valley instead...)
A zoomed view of Mount Matterhorn which is way South at the back of the Vispa/Matter Valley on the Italian border
We found a really good place where we could look North into the Massa Valley, and South into the Rhône Valley.
A look North into the Massa Valley, to the Gibidum Dam below, and the Aletsch Glacier at the back.
Panorama view of the Massa Gorge and the Rhône Valley, with the city of Brig below. In the back is the road toward the Simplon Pass
A last look at the city of Brig below before starting on our descent. We had barely any sunshine while up here because of a single cloud between the sun and us.
On our way down the mountain we mostly walked through the forest, with glimpses down to the city of Brig, including the fabulous Stockalper Palace
When we finally reached the Oberschta Irrigation Channel above Birgisch after an 80-minute and 730-meter descent, it was time to massage my feet and cool them off in the ice-cold mountain water!!!
Instead of descending to the bus stop in Birgisch, we decided to walk along the other two irrigation channels Oberschta and Stigwasser to Mund, via the Gredetschtal Valley. It was only an additional hour, and a level trail. These two irrigation channels were built in the 13th Century.
A glimpse across the valley to Mund, the end of our hike.
On this irrigation channel there were many tunnels built to accommodate the flowing water.
(More than likely, the original irrigation channel was built of wooden troughs attached to the outside of the cliffs, and then later redirected through tunnels)
VIDEO:
One of the many tunnels along the Oberschta Irrigation Channel
(This channel constructed in the 13th Century...)
A look up the beautiful Gredetsch Valley. 30 minutes on this side, and 30 minutes on the other on the way out (in the shadow of the mountain). On the other side is another "exciting" irrigation channel much higher up.
Looking to the back of the Gredetsch Valley.
You can walk further back into the valley, but here at the bridge crossing the river is where we headed back out the other side of the valley. We came along the Oberschta Suon, and went out along the Stigwasser to Mund.
Some more tunnels to walk through, some quite dark!
A narrow trail next to the irrigation channel. But the way out was in the shadow of the mountain.
Out of the valley again and heading to the village of Mund
Another look down into the Rhône Valley and the Simplon road in the far back
Heading down into the village of Mund to catch to bus to Brig
Old wooden Valais buildings. Many of these are old barns, some have been converted to small homes.
This building houses the Saffron Museum. It has been dated back to 1437 and is one of the oldest structures in Canton Valais.
The Saffron Museum.
Entrance to the Saffron Museum. We still are planning to come to Mund sometime in October or November to experience the saffron harvest first-hand.
A four-hour hike along three ancient irrigation channels (14 kilometers). As with the other four hikes we did, there was more downhill than uphill.
Obviously, this is another area where we have done a lot of walking. This time it was starting at Belalp and walking to Mund via Nessel and Gredetsch Valley. In previous years we have already walked along the two lower irrigation channels (Oberschta and Stigwasser).
This is the area of the lower Valais where we spent five days toward the end of August, and the regions where we did the five hikes.
Sunday July 11, 2021 -- Even though we had come to Valais for the weekend because it is usually drier here, there was a big storm with lots of rain during the night, and we woke up to low-lying clouds, which was a real disappointment, as we had chosen to spend the night in Brig because the bus and cable car ride to our planned starting point of Belalp was only 45 minutes from Brig, right across the valley. (When there are no clouds, you can even see the Belalp chalets on the mountainside). The hike we had planned over the suspension bridge in the Massa Gorge at the foot of the Great Aletsch Glacier and then up to Riederalp in the next valley was about five hours, and we wanted to start early, at 9 a.m.
We debated changing our plans and going elsewhere, but risked it anyway, as this was a hike we have wanted to do for a long time. It was rather depressing to arrive at Belalp in the fog, but at least there was a restaurant open there, where we nursed a morning coffee for an hour until the clouds started to dissipate. As it turned out, we then had the perfect weather for hiking. Sunshine, clear and cool air. The trail was varied and interesting, and even though it took us 2.5 hours to get to the bridge, and another 2 hours through the forest up to Riederfurka on the other side of the gorge, we were not at all tired. In fact, the late afternoon was so beautiful that we added another hour of walking by climbing the ridge to the Hohfluh chair lift station, to get a better look at the Great Aletsch Glacier from above.
Our intention was to take the chair lift down from Hohfluh to Riederalp, but we came too late, as the last run was at 4 p.m. So it meant walking down again, and in total we walked about six hours. But it was worth it. Not only were we looking down at the main part of the glacier, but we also saw the highest peaks of the Swiss Alps (several over 4000 meters), including Mt.Dom and the Matterhorn to our South. This beautiful region is actually a designated UNESCO Heritage Site. (Information HERE)
At 8 a.m. a look out of the hotel windows to the Stockalper Palace, and high up on the hillside where we are planning to go today. It's not looking too promising!
Top left was the view from our room. The other photos are impressions of Brig on our way to the train station
Main square in Brig. A last look before catching the bus at the train station. The bus goes to Blatten near Naters, and from there you take a cable car up to Belalp
The quaint villlage of Blatten. Here there was sunshine, but we have already looked at this village, so we decided to head up on the cable car right away.
Heading up by cable car from Blatten to Belalp through the clouds. The scattering of vacation houses in Belalp were in full fog/cloud, so we went into the restaurant for a coffee and waited an hour.
A look at what our hike for the day was like. It took 2.5 hours to get to the bridge, and another two hours to Rieder Furka. The detour we did to Hohfluh took another hour. We ascended almost 1000m altogether!
We had planned to start walking at 9 a.m. But the clouds started to lift at 10 a.m., just as another cable car came up. The trail to the restaurant at Aletschbord with the view of the glacier is a popular family trail, as you can see from the number of people headed that way!
Heading over to the chapel and restaurant at the back. From there you get a good view of the glacier, and the descent to the suspension bridge starts there.
These sturdy cows are Eringer cows (or Hérens cattle) and raised mostly for meat rather than milk.
The clouds are lifting a bit and we got a peek at the mountains on the South side of the Rhone valley.
This is the view at the Aletschbord Hotel Belalp. For most of the day the clouds stayed on the mountaintops, but in the valley there was a lot of sunshine. The Aletsch Glacier is 23 km long, and this is the tail end.
The red line is an approximation of where we walked!
A close-up view of the tongue of the glacier
The first section was a very steep zigzag descent on a trail used by sheep when they are driven to the higher alpine pastures
This steep descent was interesting, although the going was slow!
The zigzag trail has been shored up with rock walls to make it more stable.
What a fantastic landscape. Our trail goes past the little houses behind me, and further into the rocky section.
Lots of goats and sheep up here. These ones followed us for a bit.
They seem to be trying to figure something out!
Obviously these sheep think the day is already too hot. Behind and below is the Gibidum dammed lake.
Behind Urs is a look-out point called "Glacier View", but there is no view of the glacier any more from here. This is approximately where another gorge created by another glacier (Oberaletsch Glacier) meets this one.
Our first glimpse of the suspension bridge over the Massa Gorge
The little guy was licking the salt on my leg!
Urs on the suspension bridge
Suspension bridge over the Massa Gorge
View up the gorge. You can just see the end of the glacier at the back.
VIDEO:
Massa River flowing through the Massa Gorge
100 years ago, this gorge was filled with glacier ice
Where the two gorges meet
Trail no.39 is the Aletsch Panorama Trail. The hike to the Riederfurka was mostly through the forest, the "Aletschwald".
A view of the suspension bridge from the other side of the gorge
At this pond called "Grünsee" we had our picnic lunch, and learned that the glacier came all the way here 100 years ago.
Two hours of an uphiill climb through the lovely Aletsch Forest. After the recent rains, many parts of the trail became little streams.
According to our map, the Panorama Trail should have gone through here. Fortunately there was an equivalent alternate trail.
Almost at the passage at Rieder Furka. We got this nice view of the mountains on the opposite side of the gorge.
(At the arrow is where we started) It took us just over two hours to walk from the suspension bridge to Rieder Furka, which is the passage into the next "valley". From here it was 20 minutes to the cable car at Riederalp, which would take us to the Rhone Valley and the train home. But it was only about 4 p.m, and the afternoon was lovely, so we decided on a detour up the ridge to get a better view of the Aletsch Glacier
A look back at the restaurants at Rieder Furka, and the Villa Cassel (built 100 years ago by a rich Englishman, now converted into a nature museum). From here we could go left down the hill to Riederalp to the cable car, but we decided on another 1-hour detour up the hill behind us
A look at where we walked in relation to the glaciers in the area. The Massa River is created by the water that flows out of the Great Aletsch Glacier. We crossed the gorge below the glacier tongue, then ascended through the Aletschwald (Aletsch Forest) and took a detour to Hohfluh to get a better look at the glacier from above
Our track as depicted on Google Satellite Maps. Starting in Belalp, descending 2.5 hours to the suspension bridge, another 2 hours to Riederfurka, and a detour to Hohfluh before returning to the cable car at Rieder Alp. Altogether about 6 hours of hiking for us!
Heading up the hill to Hohfluh, a 30-minute walk from the Riederfurka passage
The magnificent Aletsch Glacier comes into view. Our plan was to descend with the Hohfluh chair lift (upper right) but we read the schedule wrong. I thought we had till 5 p.m., but it runs only till 4 p.m, and it had just made the final run as we got here. So we had to walk back down later, no problem.
There are many little ponds like this one up here on the ridge.
A closer look at the stunning Aletsch Glacier.
It's now just past 4:30 p.m, and the day has turned into a very lovely afternoon. Also, there were barely any people up here any more at this time!
Across the valley of the Great Aletsch Glacier is the hillside where we hiked down (from the left, all the way to the gorge created by the Ober Aletsch Glacier joining the Greater Aletsch Glacier, then down toward the left again). At the back of that gorge is a Swiss Alpine Hostel....
A zoomed view to the back of the Ober Aletsch Glacier gorge, you can just see the Swiss Alpine Hostel perched on the cliff, above two glaciers that meet there. Fantastic!
It's getting cool up here, time to head back down to Riederfurka (no other direct trails to Riederalp, unfortunately). Behind Urs is the backdrop of the 4000+ peaks in canton Wallis, including the Matterhorn and the Dom (highest peak totally in Switzerland). We can also see onto the Simplon Pass, where we had spent two days in early June!
A zoomed view of the Mischabel Group which forms the division between the Saas Valley and the Matter Valley. One of these peaks (not the front one) is Mt.Dom (4545m), the highest peak in the Swiss Alps that is not shared with another country.
Heading back down to Riederfurka with Villa Cassel ahead of us, and the Matterhorn in the background.
A zoomed view of the Matterhorn. It is such a distinctive mountain, no wonder it is so popular.
And the last stretch downhill to the vacation village of Riederalp, where we can catch a gondola cable-way to the bottom of the Rhone Valley
Riederalp cable-way to Mörel at the valley bottom
Heading down to the Rhone Valley bottom to catch a train home. In the back we get a good view of the road to the Simplon Pass
A look up the upper part of the Rhone Valley, the one that leads to the Goms region
Arriving down at Mörel, where we can take a train home. (3.5 hours from here. We got home at 9:45 p.m.)
There are many trails around this Aletsch Arena, and always worth a trip.
