Hikes along Sections of the Bavona and Maggia Rivers

Saturday July 18th -- For our second day in the Lake Robièi region we had three options: 1) The glacier-themed loop hike (ca. 4-6 hours, which would require a return with the cable car at 15:20, so time-wise pretty tight and all the other people would be on the same bus)...  2) A three-hour hike to the pass into Italy, and from there over into the Bedretto Valley back in Switzerland (total approx. 7-hour hike and not sure if there was still snow at the pass, which was at over 2600m...  but a better bus-schedule)... 3) a two-hour descent back to San Carlo in the Bavona Valley, as there was a bus leaving there at 11:10 where definitely only few people were to be expected.

We chose the third option, even though this also meant we had only a small window of time to make the bus (but there was the least amount of risk involved). After breakfast at the hotel, we went back up on the dam to see the lake in early morning light, and then descended on the "Sentiero Cristallina" Trail mostly in the shadow of the steep mountain to the East. It was pleasant though, and not cold, but we had no time for extra stops, having left only at 08:30. When we then ran into a very large section of avalanche snow which required a detour, it meant that we had to hurry the rest of the way! But we arrived with 10 minutes to spare in San Carlo.

After returning by bus back to Bignasco, we had another hour to kill there, a pleasant rest and a beer at the Maggia River, before the Maggia Valley bus arrived. As our approx. 2-hour descent was too short for the day, we got off at a section of the Maggia river which, as it turned out, is one of the most spectacular and best-preserved alluvial landscapes in Europe, so we walked along the river for a couple of hours. We didn't quite finish what we had planned (which was to walk 2.5 hours from Someo to Maggia) because by then the feet hurt and it was summer warm here! But there are bus stops along the way, and a good connection got us back home by 7 p.m......

View out our hotel window (Basodino Glacier, the highest glacier in Canton Ticino) at 8:00 after breakfast, and just before heading up to the dam

The evening before, the lake was in shadow as we crossed the dam, so we wanted to have a look first thing in the morning, before heading down the valley at the right. 

We're the first people out and about on this beautiful morning. The first cable car with the first visitors of the day is just arriving from San Carlo in the Bavona Valley below.

08:30, time to head off down the valley. We can't afford to miss the 11:10 bus in San Carlo, because the next one isn't till 15:40!!

The large Robièi Cable Car holds 115 people or 8 tonnes of equipment!

10 minutes from our hotel is the Swiss Alpine Club Basodino Hostel. It was fully booked for the night, or we might have stayed there. From here the "Sentiero Cristallina" trail heads steep down the Basodino Valley

A look down the valley which we are going to walk down now. Should take a little over 2 hours. Approximately a 1000m descent

On this fabulous day I really would have liked to do the hike to the Bocchetta di Val Maggia, crossing the border into Italy. But we were not sure how much snow would be up there. So we opted for the 2+ hour descent along the Sentiero Cristallina to San Carlo, from where we can catch a bus out of the Bavona Valley

The cargo cable car on its way up. Perched on the cliff is the Swiss Alpine Hostel Basodino

Even though we hiked down in the shade, it was very comfortable and not cold

Hiking down along the Basodino River

Hiking down along the Basodino River

These are called Peacock Goats, a special breed of goat originating in Canton Graubünden and also popular in North Ticino. They were once almost extinct and are still considered an endangered breed

We ran into a large section of Avalanche snow, and had to descend to the main river before going back up to the trail on the other side

Adventures like this make our hikes extra fun!

There was one small group of buildings along the way, called Campo

VIDEO:

A father and son pair rode their UNICYCLES down this trail!

The last section into San Carlo was along a paved switch-back road, which was a nice change from the mountain trail! This tree growing out of a split boulder was kind of cool

First buildings in San Carlo, and a look down the rest of the Bavona Valley, the more "level" part

Trail no.59 is the "Sentiero Cristallina". As we walked down from Robièi, we passed several hikers doing the ca. 3-hour hike UP.  In 2016 we had taken a bus up here to San Carlo, and walked back down to Bignasco at the valley entrance, a 4+ hour hike. 

The lush Bavona Valley

Looking up into the narrow valley which we had descended

Bus stop in San Carlo Bavona. We made it with 10 minutes to spare (plus the bus was late!)

 

In 2016 we walked down the Bavona Valley from San Carlo. This time we did the section of the "Sentiero Cristallina" from Robièi to San Carlo. And in 2019 we discovered two of the other side valleys here, at the end of the Maggia Valley

On the bus ride down the Bavona Valley. There are several such pretty villages along the way

Back in Bignasco we had an hour to kill before the next bus took us down the Maggia Valley. There was a pleasant wind blowing, so a very nice place for a rest stop

Instead of refreshments at the restaurant across the street, we asked them if we could take our beers to the park and return the glasses afterwards! Was much more pleasant this way

VIDEO:

Church Bells in Bignasco, ringing the noon hour

Heading down the Maggia River by bus. We planned to get out of the bus nearby in Someo, cross back across the river, and walk down the West side. This area is one of the best-kept flood plains in Europe

We were actually not aware of the status of the river as an alluvial plain of national importance, until we got to this information board in the park! Our plan was to walk the entire western section as per this map, but we only made it 2/3rds of the way down.

From the bus stop in Someo all the way to Maggia (further South) was only a 2hr30min. walk, but after reaching Lodano, I could barely take another step. So we ended our second hike there. 

The flood plain of the Maggia River at Someo, view to the North

Our walk started with a 400m-long suspension bridge over the flood-plain!

Our walk started with a 400m-long suspension bridge over the flood-plain!

As usual with river-side walks, you don't actually see much of the river. But it was a good trail through meadows and mostly forests, so we had a lot of shade on this hot day!

Lunch time and a rest for sore feet 

There was a pleasant section of vacation houses, like an alleyway through the forest

There was a pleasant section of vacation houses, like an alleyway through the forest

Most notable were the masses of blue hydrangeas decorating all the properties!

Another suspension bridge crosses the river here at Giumaglio, but we continued down the trail. 

Another rest for sore feet

As we enter the outskirts of Lodano, there are loads of vineyards and private yards with grape arbors (This here would be my dream terrace)

Always cool to spot wildlife hiding in the forest

Another lovely terrace. I could live here

Looking down on the village of Lodano. You can just see the town of Maggia in the back on the other side of the river, but we decided that was just too far. It would have been an additional hour from here, so we headed to the left to cross to the main road instead.

 

Entering Lodano

A quaint and pleasant village. It even had a hotel-restaurant! (which we did not stop at)

Crossing the Maggia River one more time to get to the main road on the other side. This view is to the South. From here it was another 3-hour trip home by bus and train.

Although it only takes us a little over 2 hours to get to Locarno, once you go to the back of the side valleys you are looking at about 4 hours travel time by public transit. That's why we made a 2-day trip out of it.

Walking down the Beautiful Bavona Valley: Day 2 of Three-Day Trip to Ticino

(Post done on December 18, 2021)

Second Day of Three-Day trip to Ticino: Val Bavona

Monday May 16, 2016 -- Second day of our vacation in the Italian part of Switzerland. We headed back into the Maggia Valley (no tourists this time) but much further up the valley, right to the end where it splits into two side valleys at the lovely village of Bignasco. 

The Bavona Valley to the West is a wild and wonderful U-shaped glacier valley lined on both sides by magnificent steep cliffs, lush and green with overgrown vegetation. And yet there are a number of charming villages along the way; this valley is so full of boulders from a multitude of landslides, that the natives built their homes of stone, in, on and adjacent to the boulders! Life was so difficult here, that they even planted and harvested grass for their animals on top of the boulders, and built shelters for them beneath the boulders.

The trail we followed is Section 1 of Trail no.59: "Sentiero Cristallina", which actually "starts" in Bignasco and heads up valley to San Carlo (we did this stretch starting in San Carlo and going down-valley), with Parts 2 and 3 going over the Cristallina Pass into the Bredretto Valley to the North. Alternately, the trails in this valley are also called "Sentieri di Pietra", or "Trails of Stone", a very apt description. 

Strict hiking time out of the valley is four hours, so that means about 7 hours for us, with all the stops along the way to admire everything, especially all the unique stone houses, the boulder barns in the middle of the forests and the spectacular 50-m high waterfall at Foroglio, one of the highlights of this valley. 

(NOTE: Photos of DAY 1 of our 3-day trip can be found HERE)

The first bus from Locarno takes us up the Maggia Valley to Bignasco, where the Bavona Valley meets the Maggia Valley from the West. This view is down the Maggia Valley from Bignasco. 

At Bignasco we have to wait for another bus, which will take us up the Bavona Valley (on the left). This view is of the village of Bignasco, and the Lavizzara Valley to the Northeast

On the way up the Bavona Valley, we pass the waterfall at Foroglio, which we will admire on our hike back down. 

One of several villages in the Bavona Valley, which we passed on our way up the valley on the bus. 

End of the bus line at San Carlo. From here you can take a cable car to the upper plateau at Robiei (the Basodino Glacier there is the largest glacier in Canton Ticino), or hike up. We are hiking down the Bavona Valley along trail no. 59. The time suggestion of 3 hours is WAY off. It takes at least four hours to walk to Bignasco, without stops.

A look down the beautiful Bavona Valley from San Carlo

Before starting on our hike down the valley, we took 30 minutes to look at the small village of San Carlo.

Heading down the valley now, a last look at San Carlo

Walking time from San Carlo to Bignasco is at least four hours, not three, as per the trail marker in San Carlo. This was a 13-km hike!

Heading SE, this is the 16th Century chapel of Gannariente

16th Century chapel of Gannariente

Next village down: Sonlerto

So many unique details to admire in these villages.

This building is from the 16th Century, was used to store grain (rye mostly)

A look back at the village of Sonlerto after passing through. Big boulders just got incorporated into the construction of the houses. 

Panorama view of Sonlerto, looking up the Bavona Valley

Continuing down the Bavona Valley

This next village is called Roseto. This is the one I photographed on the way up the valley, from the bus window!

Now we've arrived at Foroglio, with its 50-m high waterfall

The signs indicate that the trails are called "Sentieri di pietra" (Trails of stone)

Wandering around Foroglio, and a good place for a "coffee break"

We had climbed up above the village for a way, trying to get a better look at the waterfall. This is heading back down again. 

We decided to try approaching the waterfall from the front

Nice and cool on this hot day!

VIDEO:

Foroglio Waterfall

Village of Foroglio

Interesting way that the boulders were incorporated into the building structures

Following the forest trail, we found several of these stables built under the boulders. Farmers let their goats roam in the forests, and could keep them safe here at night. 

A stable built under the boulders

And of course there are always plenty of lizards around! Also enjoying the Spring sunshine, as we were.... 

Under the boulders is also a good place to build cellars, as it stays nice and cool there. Here the trail crossed the road and the river, and the rest of the way was on the South side of the river, all through the forest. 

It's always a treat when we catch sight of an emerald lizard!

Crossing the Bavona river to get back to Bignasco, where we caught the bus back out of the Maggia Valley. 

What our 13-km hike looked like on Google Satellite Maps

It took less than an hour by bus to get back out of the Maggia Valley and to our second accommodation, a hostel in Caserma. For our DAY 3 trip to Indemini, we had to leave at 7 a.m. the next morning, and needed to be fairly close by.

Photos of our DAY3 Excursion can be found HERE.

The hostel where we spent the second night, in Losone. We had to leave at 7 a.m. to get the connection to Indemini.