Round Tour of Switzerland by Train: Küssnacht, Locarno, Domodossola, Thun

Monday September 14, 2026 -- Together with a friend visiting from Germany, we decided to do a long round tour of Switzerland by train with First Class Tickets, heading first to Locarno in the Ticino, then via the Centovalli to Domodossola in Italy, and then along the lesser-frequented South Ramp of the BLS railway in Canton Wallis to Kandersteg, a nice long stop in the quaint town of Thun, and heading back home again to Küssnacht. This tour was a special request by my friend, as it was her desire to continue on to Domodossola after we had been in the Centovalli together several years earlier. (Photos HERE). 

As is the case with these types of trips, the whole journey takes about 12 hours, and most of it is admiring the scenery out of the train window. We did stop in Locarno for a quick walk to the lake before boarding the train to Domodossola (a large disappointment for us as they replaced the larger panorama train with a mini train usually reserved only for local stretches, and it was crammed full, sun in the windows, sweating hot and no one except me had the nerve to open any windows, and we also rode 2nd Class in that one as it was the only place with free window seats. Also, due to reflection on the windows, we couldn't even take good photos. I have done this stretch several times, with much better options).

A quick walk through Domodossola, then, with the required gelato purchase (also not the best experience) and then heading back to Switzerland. The ride on the South Ramp and the visit in Thun were the best part of the trip. Unfortunately, due to clouds on the mountaintops, we did not see the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau trio of mountains, but had sunshine for the second part of the day. 

(Side Note: We did a very similar trip with friends in May 2017, and the photos are worth looking at HERE, as we had some better views of the Centovalli).

(Side Note 2: We also traveled the Valle Vigezzo / Centovalli stretch once starting in Domodossola heading towards Locarno, in November 2024. The landscape looked totally different!)

PART I: Küssnacht to Locarno

Starting from home at 8:15, here in the northern part of Switzerland it is a rainy day with low clouds, forecast to get better by early afternoon. We are glad we are headed south of the Alps this morning!

By 9:50 we were on our way from Bellinzona to Locarno!

Changing trains in Bellinzona at about 9:50, we had hoped to have more sunshine for our short stop in Locarno, but at least it wasn't raining and we weren't buried in clouds! This is the Castel Grande, one of the three castles in Bellinzona which are part of this UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Lago Maggiore lakeside promenade with lots of palm trees and other Mediterranean vegetation!

With about a half hour break before heading to our next train (the Centovalli Train), we went the short stretch down to Lago Maggiore, which was one of Bianca's wishes. This view is to the East. 

And the view to the Southwest is showing some clearing of the skies! We are headed West from here, so it's looking good. 

A short walk along the the lakeside promenade at Lake Maggiore in Locarno, before heading back to the train station, which is close by. 

The Centovalli train between Locarno and Domodossola departs from a different station, an underground one near the main station. It is now 10:40, and our train leaves at 10:51, so we were actually congratulating ourselves for getting there "early". 

The train schedule promised us that we were riding on a Panorama Express, which looked like it might have been this lovely long train, but the people ahead of us kept right on walking to a smaller train at the back.... 

Which turned out to be this tiny train which usually runs as a local train stopping at every village only till the Swiss border, and not at all into Italy. We figured they had to change trains for some reason, and it was a big disappointment that all the window seats in First Class were already taken. 

PART II: Locarno to Domodossola

We had tickets to ride first class on this long day trip, so it was a bit of a disappointment that all the window seats were taken in 1st Class. Before settling in here, though, we checked out 2nd Class and found a single seat there at a window, on the side with the better view. (Which turned out to be the sunny side and way too hot as no one was opening any windows, and no air conditioning!)

As our train now heads over the Melazza River toward the town of Intragna (which lies at the junction of the Centovalli and Onsernone Valleys), we get the best view of the day in the direction of Locarno. 

(Bianca's Photo). A nice view down to the Melazza River near Intragna. The train is heading westward into the Centovalli. 

The only window seat that was available to us on the "good" side of the train for the ride to the Italian border through the Centovalli. This was in second class, which is OK, but the sun was hot and people weren't opening any windows, until I stood up to do so. (Side note, we did this trip with other friends in May 2017, and were able to actually open the windows fully to hang our heads out. In particular, like on this PHOTO). 

A couple of more photos taken by Bianca from her window seat, as we started into the Centovalli Valley ("Centovalli" = "One Hundred Valleys")

Passing via Lake Palagnedra near Camedo just before the Italian Border. (Bianca's Photo).

Once we crossed the border into Italy, the view was better on the north side of the train, so we were able to sit on the shady side and take some better photos. This valley is no longer Centovalli, but the Vigezzo Valley. 

Looking up the Vigezzo Valley. We are now travelling through Italy. (Bianca's Photo). 

The valley is wider here than on the Swiss side of the train line. 

At exactly noon, we had reached this town called Druogno. There were quite a few small towns along the railway line on the way to Domodossola. 

Church in Druogno (?)

Now on the far side of the valley to the north is a relatively large mountain town. (From my map, probably called Coimo). 

Here at Trontano starts the steeper descent out of the Vigezzo Valley, on a winding path down to the valley bottom toward Domodossola. 

Views as we descend toward Domodossola. 

A first peek at the town of Domodossola at the valley bottom to the west. 

The mountains to the west form the border with Switzerland. (This valley is kind of a northern triangle of Italy bordered on three sides by Switzerland in the Piedmont region of Italy). 

Crossing the Toce River into Domodossola. The view is up the Valle Antigorio toward Switzerland. This is the northernmost part of the Piedmont region of Italy. 

And now at 12:46 we emerge from the train station into the city of Domodossola. From here it is a short walk into the old part of town, which is not very large. 

PART III: Domodossola, Italy

The Swiss and Italian flags side by side in the square in front of the train station in Domodossola. 

In less than 10 minutes we arrive at the old town square (Piazza Mercato). We have planned to spend only an hour here, before continuing on our train trip north back into Switzerland. 

As it is now about 1 p.m., the first order of the day is to find a place to eat our picnic lunch. I think Bianca has discovered it: A marble bench in the shade "over there"!

Enjoying our picnic lunch with the pigeons!

Piazza Mercato in Domodossola. We think there might have just been a market here, as there were some sellers just packing up. 

Outdoor terraces in other squares in the old town. 

Walking around, we discovered this church, which I don't believe we had seen last time we were here in 2017. The church is called Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso  

The Cathedral is a national monument, rebuilt in 1792-1798 replacing a pre-existing 15th-century church. It is the most important church in the Ossola Region and gave its name to the city of Domodossola. 

The church features three naves, six chapels, and a fine high altar made of polychrome marble.

From Wikipedia: "The organ is a magnificent, fully mechanical Bernasconi instrument with two manuals and a pedalboard, dating from 1889".

Other details of this fabulous church, in particular a very attractive sculpted entrance door.  

Back out on the piazza in front of the church again. 

Checking out a couple of other alleyways before heading back to the main square, where we had seen a very "appropriate" gelateria where we wanted to get gelato before heading back to the train station. 

We really wanted to get gelato from this shop, as it was called "Bianca", as is my friend! But the flavours weren't marked next to the product as is usually the case, and were spread around the shop, and we both wanted only a small portion of two flavours at 3 Euros each, but through a misunderstanding, the lady sold Bianca two flavours in the largest cup for 6 Euros, and together we couldn't even finish the two portions, and we didn't even like the peach flavour.... now we know better!

PART IV: Domodossola to Thun via South Ramp

By 13:50 we were back at the Domodossola train station, waiting for the 13:58 BLS train which went directly via Brig and the South Ramp of the Lötschberg Railway to Bern, with our next stop being the city of Thun along the way, another two-hour ride from here. (We are sitting on a marble bench, marble being a popular building material here due to the nearby marble works).  

Some final views of the countryside near Domodossola as the train heads toward Iselle, and then the Simplon Tunnel, emerging at Brig in Switzerland. 

How the train travels from Domodossola in Italy, to Thun via the south ramp of the BLS train line (instead of the Lötschberg Base Tunnel to Frutigen). Also, the stretch from Locarno to Domodossola. 

We had the entire wagon to ourselves on the way to Brig! It was a long double-train, and it filled up along the way to Bern. (Currently in the Simplon Tunnel).

From Brig there are two ways to get to Bern heading north: Directly through the Lötschberg Base Tunnel which goes faster, or the slower route first along the Rhône Valley, then through the shorter Lötschberg tunnel to Kandersteg, which is what we did. Here we are looking down at the city of Brig, and in the back the Simplon Road which heads south to the Simplon Pass. 

As we head up above the large industrial Lonza Site in the city of Visp, we get a look up the Vispa Valley to the Mischabel Group of mountains, which contains the highest peak (Mt.Dom) located strictly within Switzerland. The massif is at the junction of the Saas Valley to the left, and the Matter Valley to the right (leads to Zermatt and the Matterhorn). 

Further along as we arrive into the station of the mountain village of Ausserberg, we get a nice view back over the city of Visp on the south side of the Rhône River, and the town of Baltschieder on the north side of the river. At the entrance of the Vispa Valley in the center of the photo is a mountain village called Visperterminen, and just north of that is the highest altitude vineyard in Europe, which we visited in April 2022 and April 2021.

View westward down the Rhône Valley, where the river heads toward Lac Léman (Lake Geneva).  

After passing through the upper Lötschberg Tunnel via Goppenstein, the train emerges at Kandersteg.

The train then continues up the Kander Valley toward Lake Thun, with views of the Blümlisalp Massif. Even though the weather has gotten better now north of the Alps, the clouds are still hanging low on the peaks here. 

By 15:50 we are headed along Lake Thun from Spiez to Thun. This view is northwest toward Thun at the west end of the lake. 

And at just after 4 p.m. we are at the canal near the train station in Thun, where the ships start out on their trips across Lake Thun. Normally you can see the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau peaks from here, but today they are hidden in clouds.... Recently Urs and I were here and observed the beautiful ships along this canal (Photos HERE).  

PART V: Thun and Home

Heading along the promenade now along the Aare River toward the lovely wooden covered bridge and then into the old town of Thun. 

First a view of the castle and main church from the south side of the Aare River. There is an island in the middle of the river, and this part of the river is called the "Üssere Aare" ("Outer Aare").

Crossing the wooden bridge

Now we get a look along the "Innere Aare" river, which passes along the north side of the island on the left. 

Still hoping to see the Eiger and Jungfrau, but no luck this day!

The main road in the old town is quite unique, with an upper promenade on each side and two stories of shops along the way!

This is the main square with the City Hall building on the left. Right now it is 4:30 p.m. and the town is not overrun with tourists. It is very pleasant to walk around here. 

Main square in Thun

Returning to the City Hall and main square after having walked down a couple of more alleyways. 

From here you get a spectacular view of Thun's 12th Century castle. 

We spent a night here once in a hotel close to the castle, and even though we didn't actually visit the inside of the castle, we did walk around the grounds a bit at the time. 

Crossing the Aare River again with a view to the "rapids" formed by the water locks at the wooden bridge. Surfers like to practice here, and it's fun to watch them, as we also did when Urs and I were here in August of this year. 

This fellow didn't last long on the waves, and a couple more were eager to take his place!

And then we discovered one of those "Grand Tour of Switzerland" frames, which I did not know was here. We of course had to do a shot with me in the frame as well.... 

.... which turned out to be not so easy because of the way the restaurant had placed their Oleander planter boxes!

Another lovely view of the wooden bridge over the Aar River. 

We had 20 more minutes till the final train ride at 17:33 (two-hour trip back home), so we bought some pasta and couscous salads at the grocery store and sat on this wall in the shade to enjoy the last views of the town. 

One final view of the Thun Castle as we head to the train station. (We made with with only a couple of minutes to spare!)

By 6 p.m. we were heading north out of Bern, still hoping to catch sight of the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau trio, which pose a backdrop to the Bern Cathedral at this spot when the skies are clear. But today we were out of luck for that. (Here is a photo on a clear day to compare! --> HERE). 

By 7:30 p.m. we were back home in Küssnacht am Rigi, after a generally successful round tour of Switzerland. 

This is basically the route we took: Starting in Küssnacht near the south end of Lake Luzern, via Altdorf and the Gotthard Base Tunnel to Locarno, then with the Centovalli train to Domodossola, and from there with the BLS train direct from Domodossola to Bern via the Simplon base tunnel and the south ramp to Thun, and from there back via Bern and Luzern to home, with three breaks along the way. Altogether not quite 12 hours "on the road" !!!!